'84 Peugeot Stronglight bottom bracket service
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'84 Peugeot Stronglight bottom bracket service
yes, I did search, but didn't find exactly what i was looking for. Basically, I want to break down & inspect/re-lube the bottom bracket on my PSV10. Reading here, it sounds like the BB is english threading. Don't know if the stronglight crank arms have their own unique French threading/pitch. Can anyone easily enlighten me as to what tools I should need to do this? (anything special?) Thanks in advance.
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yes, I did search, but didn't find exactly what i was looking for. Basically, I want to break down & inspect/re-lube the bottom bracket on my PSV10. Reading here, it sounds like the BB is english threading. Don't know if the stronglight crank arms have their own unique French threading/pitch. Can anyone easily enlighten me as to what tools I should need to do this? (anything special?) Thanks in advance.
84 is right around the switch from swiss to english BB threading. I've never precisely nailed it down however...
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so, basically, chances are a common 22mm puller (glad to hear '79, 'cause this will be good news for my '82 Peugeot too!) and the 'whip'/'spanner' of my choosing should be all I need to have.
(again, sorry for dumb questions. I'm realizing how well I have gotten away for the last 25 or so years *not* having bike-specific tools of my own, but generally borrowing or improvising to get things done...which is weird to me because during the same time I have expanded my tool collection for car repair to include pretty much everything I would ever need from electrical to body repair, so it feels weird to *not* have whatever I may need right there in the big red box....but it's fun to learn new stuff too, so it's all good).
(again, sorry for dumb questions. I'm realizing how well I have gotten away for the last 25 or so years *not* having bike-specific tools of my own, but generally borrowing or improvising to get things done...which is weird to me because during the same time I have expanded my tool collection for car repair to include pretty much everything I would ever need from electrical to body repair, so it feels weird to *not* have whatever I may need right there in the big red box....but it's fun to learn new stuff too, so it's all good).
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well, probably both good points there, but having to order the tools anyway (as opposed to just going to my tool box), I figured folks here would be most likely to know what that particular vintage & make of bike ought to call for.
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Typically you'll need an allen wrench to remove the dustcap, a wrench to get the bolts out, a puller to get the crankarms off, a hooked bb tool to remove the lockring, and a pin wrench to remove the adjustable cup. You leave the fixed cup in unless painting the frame. Though in theory all cranks are the same, each brand may require a slightly different tool to fit.
Remove the adjustable cup and lockring, remove the spindle and bearings from both sides. Clean in your favorite solution; I've always used mineral spirits. Wipe out the bb shell and fixed cup as well.
After the parts have dried reassemble with clean white grease; I've always bought mine at the auto parts store; a 3 dollar tub will last for years. Bearings might be loose or caged, doesn't really matter either way.
Adjust adjustable cup and lockring so there is no horizontal play at the spindle but it still turns freely. Make sure the longer side of the spindle is out the fixed side for the crank.
You can put a rag on one side of the spindle and work it back and forth like shining a shoe to seat the bearings and spread the grease. Check adjustment and readjust if required. Good for another few thousand miles!
Remove the adjustable cup and lockring, remove the spindle and bearings from both sides. Clean in your favorite solution; I've always used mineral spirits. Wipe out the bb shell and fixed cup as well.
After the parts have dried reassemble with clean white grease; I've always bought mine at the auto parts store; a 3 dollar tub will last for years. Bearings might be loose or caged, doesn't really matter either way.
Adjust adjustable cup and lockring so there is no horizontal play at the spindle but it still turns freely. Make sure the longer side of the spindle is out the fixed side for the crank.
You can put a rag on one side of the spindle and work it back and forth like shining a shoe to seat the bearings and spread the grease. Check adjustment and readjust if required. Good for another few thousand miles!
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so, basically, chances are a common 22mm puller (glad to hear '79, 'cause this will be good news for my '82 Peugeot too!) and the 'whip'/'spanner' of my choosing should be all I need to have.
(again, sorry for dumb questions. I'm realizing how well I have gotten away for the last 25 or so years *not* having bike-specific tools of my own, but generally borrowing or improvising to get things done...which is weird to me because during the same time I have expanded my tool collection for car repair to include pretty much everything I would ever need from electrical to body repair, so it feels weird to *not* have whatever I may need right there in the big red box....but it's fun to learn new stuff too, so it's all good).
(again, sorry for dumb questions. I'm realizing how well I have gotten away for the last 25 or so years *not* having bike-specific tools of my own, but generally borrowing or improvising to get things done...which is weird to me because during the same time I have expanded my tool collection for car repair to include pretty much everything I would ever need from electrical to body repair, so it feels weird to *not* have whatever I may need right there in the big red box....but it's fun to learn new stuff too, so it's all good).
Mechanics is an okay place to ask, but this is far better place for old Frenchies, as we're not intimidated or dismissive of them.
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thanks very much. this one was in many ways an acquisition of convenience (though I'm not really intimidated by much, plus being half French myself, why not carry the flag!), but I'm rapidly becoming a fan of the bike for a variety of reasons.
btw, in case anyone's logging database info on Peugeot mechanicals, it looks like a large (thin) open end wrench is what will turn the adjusting cup on mine.
btw, in case anyone's logging database info on Peugeot mechanicals, it looks like a large (thin) open end wrench is what will turn the adjusting cup on mine.
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ive got a 85 peugeot an looking to upgrade the chainset and bottom bracket to something newer, does anyone have any suggestion bearing in mind im on a budget
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Assuming it's British/BSA threading a BB will set you back $15 and a crankset no more than $20.
As a side note the mid 80's Peugeots fall into the purgatory of threading. Not always British (heaven) and not always hell (French/Swiss).
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According to Sutherlands, the fixed cup on 8-sided fixed cups have one groove (or ring) for French, but NO grooves (rings) for Swiss.
Sutherlands also say that the adjustable cup for French is 6-sided and has no rings...presumedly that's the same for Swiss, it's also the same for British adj. cups, but the FR lockring has 6 notches while the BSC has 4 or 8.
confused yet?
Sutherlands also say that the adjustable cup for French is 6-sided and has no rings...presumedly that's the same for Swiss, it's also the same for British adj. cups, but the FR lockring has 6 notches while the BSC has 4 or 8.
confused yet?
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Mine too....aren't we soooo lucky!
One day.....I will finally spring for that beautiful Phil Wood BB with the Swiss threaded rings.....one day....I've been telling this to myself since the mid 80's!....Phil's gone now, maybe I (we?) should do it asap!
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One day.....I will finally spring for that beautiful Phil Wood BB with the Swiss threaded rings.....one day....I've been telling this to myself since the mid 80's!....Phil's gone now, maybe I (we?) should do it asap!
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85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
Last edited by Chombi; 08-05-10 at 09:59 AM.
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According to Sutherlands, the fixed cup on 8-sided fixed cups have one groove (or ring) for French, but NO grooves (rings) for Swiss.
Sutherlands also say that the adjustable cup for French is 6-sided and has no rings...presumedly that's the same for Swiss, it's also the same for British adj. cups, but the FR lockring has 6 notches while the BSC has 4 or 8.
confused yet?
Sutherlands also say that the adjustable cup for French is 6-sided and has no rings...presumedly that's the same for Swiss, it's also the same for British adj. cups, but the FR lockring has 6 notches while the BSC has 4 or 8.
confused yet?
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that's very exceptional, cause Sutherlands says that that SL fixed cup (with 2 flats) is used only in Italian BB, and it would have one ring...in any case it's sure nice when they are clearly marked with threading numbers and country.
Last edited by unworthy1; 08-06-10 at 08:49 AM.
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I published a feature article in MY "TEN SPEEDS regarding How To Rebuild a Vintage Bottom Bracket.
Hope this is a help.
Hope this is a help.
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A sealed cartridge BB and a generic Japanese crankset should do the trick .
Assuming it's British/BSA threading a BB will set you back $15 and a crankset no more than $20.
As a side note the mid 80's Peugeots fall into the purgatory of threading. Not always British (heaven) and not always hell (French/Swiss).
Assuming it's British/BSA threading a BB will set you back $15 and a crankset no more than $20.
As a side note the mid 80's Peugeots fall into the purgatory of threading. Not always British (heaven) and not always hell (French/Swiss).
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