EraserGirl

I did look around and didn't find a thread that covered this topic for C&V.

Someone was asking me about picking up an 'old' bike for herself as she is in the market for what I personally call a 'Mom bike'. When you have 2 kids, two NEW bikes will set you back a lot so if Mom wants to go out with the kids a few times a year an older bike in good condition is just what she needs.

Since I am fairly new to this, the only good rules of thumb I could give her were to look for
Raleigh, Schwinn or Columbia where the gears aren't all messed up. Good solid bikes that are worth fixing up.
I figure everything can be replaced on the bike, but the labor involved in cleaning up the gears can be cost prohibitive, but like I said, I am new to this

Can folks chip in with any specific or general advice about buying old bikes?
(Primarily advice for folks who are not deep down crazy for restoration, like us.)

I think I may put a few of my finds aside a few Mom Bikes for a spring yard sale to benefit my Rail Trail program.

miamijim

My 4 rules...

1. Set budget
2. Buy the correct size
3. Buy what you like
4. DO NOT break rules 1, 2 or 3.

Oldpeddaller

Totally agree with Miamijim - perfect sense!

John E

I, too, like miamijim's rules. Size counts!

USAZorro

When you're buying for yourself, those are good guidelines.

I'd add:

5. Make sure the seat post and the stem move
6. Avoid heavy rust

makeitwork

All great advice, especially "buy what you like."

My single-speed is a converted 30 year old 10-speed Rampar, and rides like a dream. Took a little fixing up, but the price was right since I've had the bike since it was new. The components still looked good, but I wanted a lighter bike that wouldn't need much maintenance.

Probably wouldn't see a bidding war on it pre-rehab, but it translated into a really nice bike.

The odds are good that the brands mentioned would be suitable, but you might miss a nice, unknown bike that would work fine for someone who wants to ride around the park, for a much lower price.

Mid-rehab:



(Working on getting a picture of the final product. And yes, I know the labels aren't lined up with the valves )

teambhultima

All good advice above.
Check local thrift stores. I've picked up 3 nice old Schwinns there over the past few years that needed very little other than cleaning and new tubes & tires, all for very reasonable prices. Perfect for neighborhood cruisers with the kids!
Good luck!

sykerocker 

Erasergirl requsted tha I cross post this from another thread. Hope it helps:

Back in the early 70's when I worked at the bike shop, the pecking order was as follows:

Schwinn/Raleigh/most anything lugged from Europe was top tier - the Schwinns could take a beating way better than the alternatives. Japanese bikes that were starting to show up were in the class, unless it was a C. Itoh. They were garbage.

Columbia's were about a half step down. Cosmetically they were obviously cheaper and a bit cruder, but the quality build was there, so you bought that if you couldn't afford a Schwinn. Sears bikes (non-Puch's) were about the same quality, although there was a bit of varience between the entire line.

Huffy's were another half to a full step down. Obviously cheaper, although they held together. A prime ride for a parent buying for a spoiled bratty kid who wasn't about to take care of it.

Murray's, although they looked about the same as Huffy's were definitely another step down. Now you're starting to deal with maintenance nightmares.

Iverson's were the absolute bottom of the barrel - to the point that no bicycle shop would ever consider carrying them under any conditions. Sold in catalog stores, toy stores and the forerunners of what later became the big box stores.

infinityeye

don't buy french first.

cb400bill

What if you live in France?

Little Darwin

It could still be a problem for vintage frames since some threading etc was "unusual" so it can be difficult to find replacement parts.

Although, this does not (in my opinion) mean to avoid French bikes, just to be cognizant of potential issues.

Iowegian

I'm guessing most of the mom's will like an upright riding position. Old rigid mountain bikes (no shocks) are incredibly cheap and give an upright riding position. Try to find one that looks like hasn't been used much, ie no dirt, no rust, maybe dusty and a few cobwebs but no serious signs of heavy use. A rusty chain means it been stored outside, pass on those. Take it for a ride and see what you think. If you ride a few bikes like this you will quickly be able to tell the good from the bad. Good bikes shift and brake crisply; bad bikes will be sloppy, sluggish, ill-tempered. Don't be put off by bikes with flat tires. Often these are the best deals and tubes only cost $3. Just make sure it fits you ie that you are comfortable standing over and sitting on the bike.

roccobike

+1, Iowegian beat me to it. Low cost, well made, wide tires for extra stability, Old mountain bikes make great mom bikes. The "womens" models are not common, but sell for less. You can find these bikes at yard sales for $10-$20. Frequently less because the tires are flat. Seriously, inflate the tires before assuming the tubes are shot. Top notch brands are availiable, Specialized, Raleigh, Trek, Fuji, you can fill in your favorite LBS bike here. Also, if the shifters work, but are sluggish, don't be turned off usually a quick shot of chain lube spray into the shifters will free them up. If the shifters don't work, then walk away, that's the most expensive part to replace.

Peruano

Iowegian and Roccobikes are hitting the meat of the issue. Almost any bike that fits will serve if:
The wheels spin easily and are true (straight). Look below the dust, but forget it if it has rust. Lift the back wheel and listen, if its smooth and quiet or merely the freewheel clicking good, if it sounds like you are grinding coffee bad. Ditto front wheel, does it roll easily. A good servicible bike will have parts that look manufactured as opposed to the cheapest ones that look like they were molded in my backyard forge. Don't let flat tires put you off if you can adequately evaluate size without riding it. The tires and tubes will set you back and additional $30, but need to be replaced on nearly all used bikes in the lower price range, and as pointed out that bike with flats can be bought a lot cheaper because most people don't want to mess with the extra challenge. Bright paint is not important but if its really badlys scratch abraded, or largely missing the previous owner has thrown it around like his dirty laundry, don't touch it. Good bikes, neglected for years, but stored indoors, often roll out at yard sales for $10 - $30, and on the last day they sometimes get reduced or gifted to some one who gave the steed a careful and thoughtful scrutiny. Nuff said. Tom

EraserGirl

thanks guys
i have already discovered the flat tire thing,
(tubes are costing me about 6 and tires 10-13 depending on size)
and avoiding problematic gears and shifters

i don't see a lot of used mountain bikes in my neck of the woods
but i am sure other people may
in my vicinity old road bikes in basements and garages are more common.
i am completely steering clear of bikes used by kids.
there isn't much left of them when the kids are done.

Road Fan

One thing to consider: Schwinn 3-speed tires (S-5 and S-6) are not easy to find in my experience.

wrk101

+1 Rigid frame steel mountain bike. Heck, I have found two good ones in the last day at thrift stores (one Giant, one Trek).

As for tubes, I pay $2 each from pricepoint (on the web). I shoot for less than $6 each for tires. This is for flip bikes (bikes to resell).

As far as who used the bike, I don't care. Looking at all the obese kids around here, they sure aren't wearing out any bikes!!! Garage sale bikes around here can be around $10 each. If the bike has alloy rims, seat post is not seized, no frame damage (dents), minimal rust, and not a Huffy/Roadmaster/etc, I buy it. I avoid the old steel cottered crank. Flat tires, seized cables, poor shifting are all expected and usually easily fixed.

If you don't want to do work on a bike, then buy from a local flipper. You should expect a flipper to sell you a bike in a ready to ride condition. Unless you enjoy working on bikes and looking for deals (stopping at a lot of thrift shops and garage sales), buying from a flipper is a better option.

I see several good rigid mountain bikes on the Boston Craigs List for under $100.

alanbikehouston

When I started buying older bikes, I did not give a lot of thought to the time and money it takes to restore a bike to "runs like new" condition. I've learned the hard way that buying an old bike for $100, and then spending $200 to get it into good riding condition costs more than a $150 bike that is in PERFECT condition.

Visit every bike shop within five miles of your home, and tell them you are looking for an older bike in great riding condition. If a shop does not have such a bike this month, they might get one in next month. Also, check out the Salvation Army, Goodwill, and other resale stores. Look for the bikes that look PERFECT. If you are willing to take your time, you will find bikes that probably have been ridden less than 20 miles during their lifespan.

An easy "test" of a bikes quality are the rims and weight. Good bikes have aluminum rims (bring a magnet to Goodwill if you are not sure how to tell). Really good bikes weigh between 20 pounds and 25 pounds, and decent bikes weight from 25 pounds to 29 pounds. If a bike weighs 50 pounds, even if it IS a "real" Schwinn, it will not be fun to ride.

mparker326

I always see plenty of lady's 3 speeds around. Usually you can find one in decent condition for ~$75.

I got my wife one a few years back and she loves it.

KarmicPedals

You should have a "wants" checklist that you compare with the bike and the cost of obtaining those wants AFTER you purchase the bike, if they can be added to the bike

For example:

Dealbreaker wants:

1) correct size
2) solid frame construction with preferred materials of choice (i.e. if you don't want a 40 pound bike, don't buy one)
3) Condition (if it's going to take you 20 hours to clean it up and repair it.. what is it REALLY worth to you?

Optional Wants:

Handlebar shape/size (think $10 on up for what you might want if you don't already have it to switch out)
stem size ($30 - $40 or more if you have to buy new)
tires/tubes condition
cranks
pedals
racks (a bike with front and back racks goes way up in value in my eyes)
basket
type of shifters (does it have stem and you want downtube? vice versa? or thumbs?)
fenders
levers
condition of paint
kickstand
seat
seat post
bottle cage
frame mounted pump

Just changing out the bars/stem, adding fenders, switching up the shifters/levers, changing out the seat can easily add a couple of hundred or more to the cost of the bike....

ogbigbird

here is a random bit of info i heard around, but it makes a lot of sense: bikes with "girls" frames are typically in better, untampered shape, than a bike with a conventional frame. the logic on this was that a young man or boy will be more likly to either be really hard on the bike and wear it out and more likely to "tinker" on it, therefor sometimes making it mechanically shady. an old mountain bike with flat bars, nice geometry and fat tire would be about perfect, as long as you know how hard that bike was rode and its mechanical geometry. an old 3speed in the womans frame would probably prove to be in good shape with less chance of having been rode hard and abused.

EraserGirl

i agree with this, i am finding the numbers bear this up.

I have started calling bikes where you could wear a skirt comfortably 'women's' bikes
and ones with bars higher up, merely step through frames.
no sense being unnecessarily sexist.

Ex Pres 

Nowadays those are called compact frames.

USAZorro

This is good advice, but if you are at all willing to do some basic and simple maintenance yourself, finding a bike in less than perfect condition is viable. Not a basket case mind you, but a less than perfect finish, a cruddy chain, beat tires and bearings that need service aren't necessarily deal breakers. Definitely keep the total cost in mind, but don't spend months discarding bikes that could be great with just a little work because they're not perfect.

prettyshady

lol

I don't buy parts of ebay any more. It either get's too expensive and/or its broken in some way.

For some fun advice, if a bikes name end with a vowel, its probally italian