3 speed cable routing... Need your help!!
#1
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
3 speed cable routing... Need your help!!
I recently fixed up this old Norman. Before I took the whole thing apart I photographed it to help me put it back together. There is a clamp for the shift cable to terminate the housing, it was on the crossbar when I got the bike so natually I just put it right back there, the results were positive, it shifts like it should. Then recently I saw a picture of a womens Robin Hood and the same clamp was located on the downtube. Natually I thought I made a mistake, so I tried to move the clamp on my bike. The diameter of the downtube is signifigantly larger than the crossbar and I can not get the clamp to fit unless it was bent. No matter what tube it is mounted on, the pulley redirects it under the chaingaurd. Also, this is a 58 SW 3 speed and the trigger logo is upside down, should it still be mounted like all the others. I have a few pictures of it, so to all the pros out there....Let me know what you think.
#2
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,796
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1392 Post(s)
Liked 1,324 Times
in
836 Posts
I would favor locating the clamp/stop so that the cable emerges axially, which would make the downtube the preferred location, but I cannot explain why your clamp is sized for the top tube. As you noticed, both locations evidently work fine.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,653
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 380 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 106 Times
in
80 Posts
Be very careful with the SW hub as it had some serious flaws. It was so bad Sturmey Archer withdrew it from production after about one year. The upside down logo was common on bikes in that time frame and earlier. Roger
Last edited by rhenning; 10-06-08 at 05:16 PM.
#4
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
Yeah, I read an article from Sheldon Browns site about the problems associated with the springless pawls. When I first set it up, it would slip in 3rd gear, so I switched the left and right side pawls. I also use light weight oil in the hub since they suggested it may help. The hub now engages all 3 gears easily, but I still dont trust it enough to stand up out of the seat. I think mine was made later in the SW production run, The dog profile looks like the later one on Sheldon's site and there is a medium sized centering lip. It's fun to toy with, but yeah, I still don't trust it.
Last edited by mkeller234; 10-06-08 at 03:35 PM. Reason: changed word
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Maybe that clamp you have was originally for a mens style bike. The cable routing for these usually looks like this:
Of course I have seen the pulley in the low position on mens frames too. Does anybody know if the original position were variable or if these variations are just people using what parts they could find when fixing these bikes? (like I did with mine)
Of course I have seen the pulley in the low position on mens frames too. Does anybody know if the original position were variable or if these variations are just people using what parts they could find when fixing these bikes? (like I did with mine)
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,156
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,690 Times
in
2,610 Posts
I would think there would have been a gear cable stop on the downtube originally for the reasons you describe, and those larger sized clamps are readily available. I probably have one in my stash; send me a PM to remind me to look for it.
Neal
Neal
#7
Membership Not Required
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times
in
14 Posts
Maybe that clamp you have was originally for a mens style bike. The cable routing for these usually looks like this:
Of course I have seen the pulley in the low position on mens frames too. Does anybody know if the original position were variable or if these variations are just people using what parts they could find when fixing these bikes? (like I did with mine)
Of course I have seen the pulley in the low position on mens frames too. Does anybody know if the original position were variable or if these variations are just people using what parts they could find when fixing these bikes? (like I did with mine)
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#8
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
Upside down
Looks like the upside down logo threw this guy off too. I'm glad I asked before I switched it, that just looks awkward. I have a Bike shop that carries all kinds of 3 speed junk, he may have some good clamps.
Here are some more pics of my 3 speed, see if you guys can see anything else that screams amateur. One thing I did change from these pics is the handlebar position, I moved them to be parallel to the fork crown. The look tilted to far forward in the pics. Let me know, I want to learn. Here is the link to my flickr page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3089497...57607601628620
Thanks alot,
Matt
Here are some more pics of my 3 speed, see if you guys can see anything else that screams amateur. One thing I did change from these pics is the handlebar position, I moved them to be parallel to the fork crown. The look tilted to far forward in the pics. Let me know, I want to learn. Here is the link to my flickr page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3089497...57607601628620
Thanks alot,
Matt
Last edited by mkeller234; 10-06-08 at 06:33 PM. Reason: forgot link and picture
#9
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,171
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 847 Times
in
323 Posts
Part of the draw of the upside down trigger is that it can be fitted so that it parallels the bottom sides of the grips roughly (lever points downward), and can be used on drop bars nicely too. To do this you'd take that shifter you have and rotate it forward until the writing is right side up and facing you if you were to look at the bicycle head on from the front. You can use it without moving your hands from the grips if you set it up correctly.
As for the cable routing change-- I actually like the low-mount cable path used later on than the earlier, high pulley path.
As for the cable routing change-- I actually like the low-mount cable path used later on than the earlier, high pulley path.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#10
Senior Member
the shifter is meant to be angled down, just above the brake lever. it's much more intuitive as a trigger shifter when you use your trigger finger in a trigger like position. rotate that sucker down 120 degrees or so so that you can read the type from the front of the bike, that's how it's supposed to be, I don't know where that top mounted shifter came from.
I too favor the DT routing however I have always thought that top tobe cable routing is cooler than downtube routing on any bike
I too favor the DT routing however I have always thought that top tobe cable routing is cooler than downtube routing on any bike
#12
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
No, not off subject at all! It appears Norman, like Raleigh, made bikes that were distributed by various American companies, including Western Flyer. Somewhere on the internet are pictures of another Norman-made Western Flyer ... I may even have 'em on my hard drive somewhere.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,977
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I tried the low routing when I built up my homemade 3 speed. Didn't work well as my heel of my big foot kept hitting the cable. Maybe this is why men's 3 speeds are routed high and women's are low?
#14
Senior Member
excellent point. top tube routing on a ladies bike would be pretty tricky.......
#15
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
No, not off subject at all! It appears Norman, like Raleigh, made bikes that were distributed by various American companies, including Western Flyer. Somewhere on the internet are pictures of another Norman-made Western Flyer ... I may even have 'em on my hard drive somewhere.
https://crozetmcds.blogspot.com/2008/...ern-flyer.html
Last edited by mkeller234; 10-07-08 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Pic didnt work
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Looks like the upside down logo threw this guy off too. I'm glad I asked before I switched it, that just looks awkward. I have a Bike shop that carries all kinds of 3 speed junk, he may have some good clamps.
Here are some more pics of my 3 speed, see if you guys can see anything else that screams amateur. One thing I did change from these pics is the handlebar position, I moved them to be parallel to the fork crown. The look tilted to far forward in the pics. Let me know, I want to learn. Here is the link to my flickr page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3089497...57607601628620
Thanks alot,
Matt
Here are some more pics of my 3 speed, see if you guys can see anything else that screams amateur. One thing I did change from these pics is the handlebar position, I moved them to be parallel to the fork crown. The look tilted to far forward in the pics. Let me know, I want to learn. Here is the link to my flickr page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3089497...57607601628620
Thanks alot,
Matt
I agonized over the cable routing when I built my three speed. I thought that running it on the down tube was neater, but I ended up running it on the top tube because the clamp hides a flaw in the paint and I wanted to show off the early steel pulley that nlerner sent me.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 10-07-08 at 08:10 PM.
#17
On the road
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New England
Posts: 2,171
Bikes: Old Schwinns and old Raleighs
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 847 Times
in
323 Posts
The saddle looks too far forward to me. Do you have the clamp reversed? I see a lot of them like that, so I can't say it's wrong, but it looks wrong to me.
I agonized over the cable routing when I built my three speed. I thought that running it on the down tube was neater, but I ended up running it on the top tube because the clamp hides a flaw in the paint and I wanted to show off the early steel pulley that nlerner sent me.
I agonized over the cable routing when I built my three speed. I thought that running it on the down tube was neater, but I ended up running it on the top tube because the clamp hides a flaw in the paint and I wanted to show off the early steel pulley that nlerner sent me.
__________________
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
#18
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
My 58 has a steel pulley, when did they make the switch to plastic?
#19
Membership Not Required
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times
in
14 Posts
Somewhere around 1960. The original steel ones show up on Ebay pretty regularly. There are also reproduction ones available.
Aaron
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,437
Bikes: NOYB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
There is a clamp for the shift cable to terminate the housing, it was on the crossbar when I got the bike so natually I just put it right back there, the results were positive, it shifts like it should. Then recently I saw a picture of a womens Robin Hood and the same clamp was located on the downtube. Natually I thought I made a mistake, so I tried to move the clamp on my bike. The diameter of the downtube is signifigantly larger than the crossbar and I can not get the clamp to fit unless it was bent. No matter what tube it is mounted on, the pulley redirects it under the chaingaurd.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
You can get reproduction pulleys here. Click on parts. They don't have the "curious machining marks " you can see in the picture of my original. I have their stainless steel fulcrum sleeve.
https://www.3speedtour.com/
https://www.3speedtour.com/
#22
Rustbelt Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
I just worked on a Hercules last week with the same cable routing: Housing stop on toptube, roller at BB on downtube. The cable just looks wrong being away from the tubes like that, but that's the way it is on some of these old bikes. Think of it as an old-timey eccentricty that gives it some character.
Old-timey eccenticities abound on this bike. I do kind of like how it looks though, my only problem is I am selling the bike, and I figure that may look like a problem to someone.