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Newbie with Questions
Hello there, just began ridding because its convinient for school. I am a fix/hands on nut, i do the work myself, i hate paying someone to do something i can do myself.
Nikishi Custom Sport pre 1985 made in the USA 12 speed Here are the questions The top braking levers lag in response--how do i adjust? The breaks squeak/squal when i am apply them---what to do to fix Brake cables are rusted---should i replace, if so, any good recomendation Shifting is not smoth, i drop the lever to switch gears---move it more then it responsds but the shift is hard and make an awfull noise I am trying to restore the bike yet at the same time upgrade important components to make ride and look bad ass ( for a better lack of words) how do i determine what size the frame is. I am 6 foot 1. When i put my feet on the ground my toes barely reach. Ohh...i am also in the way the bike looks, i'm trying to find some rims to match the color of the bike; blue. How do i go about figuiring out what rims to buy/size/brand. |
It sounds as if your cables all need to be cleaned and relubed and possibly replaced on a bike that old. Ditto for the deraileurs. Old oil gets really viscous and even sticky.
Brake squeal can usually be cured by adjusting the brake pads to be "toe in". The brake lever extensions ("top brake levers") are terrible. Take them off and use the eral brake levers, directly. Frames sizes are measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube, measuring along the seat tube. If you cannot comfortably straddle the top tube with your feet flat on the ground, the frame is too big for you and should be replaced (it's dangerous). If you meant to say you can barely touch while seated, then get off the seat - it's that simple. I will not offer any help in your effort to put BLUE rims on any bicycle. :-) |
Just replace all of the cables. You can get a set of all four cables at Walmart for $5. Be sure to lube the cables as well. Rusty cables should be thrown out. Also consider new brake pads.
+1 Turkey levers :<(((( I can't touch the ground if I am on the seat. Seat is meant to be set at a height that your legs are just about fully extended when you pedal. Do a search on bike sizing, there is a lot of info out there, and a lot of opinions (kind of like politics and religion). |
Congrats on the Nishiki, Custom Sport.
Yes, you should replace the rusted cables. Do not replace the derailers, clean and lube yes. I use spray chain lube with the small tube they provide to get inside the rear derailer. Brakes. Check the toe in of the brake pads. If they are not toe'd inward, toward the front of the bike, they will squeal, period (both front and rear). Next, if they still squeal, clean the sides of the rims with rubbing alcohol. If they still squeal after that, change the pads. However, I've never had to change pads to get rid of a squeal. I've changed them to improve the braking power, but not to get rid of the squeal. As for the turkey wings, I don't share the desire to remove them. They stay on all my bikes that have them. They do not have good mechanical advantage so you won't be able to improve the braking to the same level as the main brake levers, but for scrubbing off speed while riding on the top bars, they are just fine. The only danger they pose is someone insisting on using them for a panic stop, which they are not suited for. It's your preference. Shifting a friction shift unit is not like an index shifter. I'm betting you have a stem mounted shifter (probably Suntour, maybe Shimano). You have to overshift many of these units to get the chain to shift, then bring it back. I think, just my opinion, stem shifters require this type shifting more than downtube, but most of my downtube shifters require some overshifting. Important, check your chain stretch. If that chain is old and stretched, it needs to be replaced. A new chain, or one that is in spec. will shift better with less overshift, but it will still require some. With regard to the colored rims, your best bet is ebay. If you want them cause that's what you like, go for it. If you want them cause they are cool, I've not seen any high end rims come in different colors. I think the colored rim thing is retro. But then you're riding a retro bike so yeah, it might work. As for making it look badass. IMHO, there is one change that really improves the look of an old, retro bike to make it look more up to date and cleaner. Replace the brake levers with aero levers. Not only does it clean up all that wire mess near the bars, they are safer because aero levers improve your mechanical advantage when braking. Additonally, I've had the wires interfere with my hands a couple of times at inopportune moments. If you have a chance, please take pics and post them on the Nishiki Serial Number database here on C&V along with the serial number. T-Mar and the rest of us would like to see your bike. I have an 87 Custom Sport and really like it. I think they are an under-rated bike. Good luck bringing it back. |
One more comment about frame measuring. You should get to know the size of frame you need. However, if I followed the advice above, only ride a frame where you have enough clearance to straddle the bike while your feet are flat on the ground, I'd have to ride a frame so small, it would be dangerous, especially on an older road bike with 27" rims. I ride a frame size that fits my leg length, and torso. Remember, when you hit the ground, your bike is almost always at an angle, not perfectly straight up. This topic has been discussed before. If you're evaluating a new bike frame with sloping top tube, then the rule of placing your feet on the ground is more appropriate.
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