Reynolds 531 decals - on with water or alcohol?
02-18-08, 06:16 AM
#1
十人十色
Thread Starter
Reynolds 531 decals - on with water or alcohol?
Reynolds 531 decals, on my 1982 Trek, I have a spare set but I don't know how to apply them. With water or with alcohol?
02-18-08, 01:34 PM
#2
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If it's not a pressure-sensitive vinyl "sticker" then I'm guessing that they are "water slide" type decals. If so, soak them in a cup of water until they get loose enough to slide around on the backing paper. Get the surface of the tube (where you will place the decal) wet with water (to which you add only a drop of dish liquid). Slide the decal off the paper onto the wet spot, the water on the tube will allow you to position it (for a minute or so) until it "grabs". Then blot it carefully with a clean cloth and don't touch it until the water has completely evaporated and the decal is dry (24 hours is safe).
The only other type I'm aware of is a "varnish set" decal that requires you adhere it with a patch of clear varnish (copal being the best but hard to find, you also can use gilder's size) and I doubt that this is the type you have: if the image is reversed (mirror image) and has 2 papers attached ( a protective paper and a carrier sheet) then it may well be a varnish-set type.
The only other type I'm aware of is a "varnish set" decal that requires you adhere it with a patch of clear varnish (copal being the best but hard to find, you also can use gilder's size) and I doubt that this is the type you have: if the image is reversed (mirror image) and has 2 papers attached ( a protective paper and a carrier sheet) then it may well be a varnish-set type.
Last edited by unworthy1; 02-18-08 at 01:45 PM.
02-18-08, 03:20 PM
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How about water for the decal and alcohol to celebrate the event.
02-18-08, 04:00 PM
#4
Disraeli Gears
Seat tube 531 decal on my '82 Trek looks like a pressure-sensitive one.
02-18-08, 04:58 PM
#5
十人十色
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies! Water and then alcohol sounds good 
Water or pressure? I don't know and can't tell. The decals are sandwiched between 2 sheets of paper, a thicker piece that the decal seems to be stuck to, and a thinner piece that is easy to peel off to reveal the back of the decal. The decal thus revealed is sticky to the touch.
The readable side:
https://flickr.com/photos/22983673@N0...n/photostream/
The back, sticky side:
https://flickr.com/photos/22983673@N0...n/photostream/
Water or pressure? I don't know and can't tell. The decals are sandwiched between 2 sheets of paper, a thicker piece that the decal seems to be stuck to, and a thinner piece that is easy to peel off to reveal the back of the decal. The decal thus revealed is sticky to the touch.
The readable side:
https://flickr.com/photos/22983673@N0...n/photostream/
The back, sticky side:
https://flickr.com/photos/22983673@N0...n/photostream/
02-18-08, 05:47 PM
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It's a pressure-sensitive one.You can mist where you want to put the sticker with water and a bit of dish-soap.That way you can move the sticker a bit if you need to straighten it out.It's not a "one-shot deal" to get it just right.You have a few minutes to move it if you have to because once it's stuck it's STUCK.......then the alcohol.
02-18-08, 06:06 PM
#7
十人十色
Thread Starter
It's a pressure-sensitive one.You can mist where you want to put the sticker with water and a bit of dish-soap.That way you can move the sticker a bit if you need to straighten it out.It's not a "one-shot deal" to get it just right.You have a few minutes to move it if you have to because once it's stuck it's STUCK.......then the alcohol.
Thanks!
11-25-08, 04:41 PM
#8
Senior Member
If it's not a pressure-sensitive vinyl "sticker" then I'm guessing that they are "water slide" type decals. If so, soak them in a cup of water until they get loose enough to slide around on the backing paper. Get the surface of the tube (where you will place the decal) wet with water (to which you add only a drop of dish liquid). Slide the decal off the paper onto the wet spot, the water on the tube will allow you to position it (for a minute or so) until it "grabs". Then blot it carefully with a clean cloth and don't touch it until the water has completely evaporated and the decal is dry (24 hours is safe).
https://cgi.ebay.com/Ciocc-decal-for-...742.m153.l1262
Thanks guys!
11-25-08, 05:22 PM
#9
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Yes, I just bought and applied raleigh stickers from the same seller. The decals from him turned out great.
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11-25-08, 05:35 PM
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cyclomondo is Greg Softley and AFAIK his are PSA (pressure-sensitive-adhesive) vinyl stickers...so, you do NOT soak them in water to get them off the backing paper, you peel them off, but you CAN use the wet-spot-on-the-tube technique to help you position them. Then smooth out any bubbles and blot the moisture. Wait for at least 24 hours (or more) before you clear-coat. Greg usually packs a detailed instruction sheet with all these tips and more.
11-25-08, 08:02 PM
#13
Senior Member
It is okay, I messed around with some of the smaller decals and figured it out without screwing things up too bad---but thanks for the offer, I appreciate it!
Here is the end result, I will probably pay a bodyshop to do a couple of clearcoats. I know myself pretty well and I will ruin the decals if they are not clearcoated.
Here is the end result, I will probably pay a bodyshop to do a couple of clearcoats. I know myself pretty well and I will ruin the decals if they are not clearcoated.
11-26-08, 12:32 AM
#15
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Looks great, they do great work. Let me know if you get a quote on clear coating, I am in the exact same stage with my frame as you are and I am curious about costs. I talked to a guy about pin stripping the lugs and misc. touchup for about $35.00-$40.00.
-Matt
-Matt
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11-26-08, 06:58 AM
#16
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$35-$40 for a pinstriper to even look at something is pretty good deal. If they're Nervex lugs, I would have paid him already, hehe.,,,,BD
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