Well guys I started the dismantling of the bike and things are going well, I had to get rid of the brake hoods, does anyone know any sites that sell a wide variety of bike parts and decent prices? I'll probably be buying new hoods as the only original hoods I can find are in poor condition. The brakes are good, no rust at all, I threw out the brake cables though they were tattered and ripping so I'll be buying new cables. Also good news, I used sandpaper to derust the freewheel and I must say I did a very good job, the wheels are also derusted and for the most part the bike is pretty clean all that needs to be done is to buy the before mentioned brake cables, brake hoods (not necessary but nice) and quality tires and I'm set.
I'll most likely be asking my grandpa who paints cars to help me paint the bike as a lot of the paint is chipping off in odd areas.

Oh and I also found the serial number of the bike:

6245888

Oh and in regards to the acid, I actually used a mix of molasses and water, then threw all my rusted steel parts into it. It sounds crazy, but molasses shares a chemical found in commercial derusters, plus the results speak for themselves, after a few hours rust already came off, and some of the smaller pieces of steel have no rust to speak of on them already after a few hours haha.

Nice job on the rust-remover: Market it! People would eat it up <koff> as "All Natural - Non-Polluting!"

Dia Compe brake hoods should fit your brake-levers. Here is a URL to an outfit that has them - cheap. And probably everything else you'll ever need regards bicycles:

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi

Just type Brake Hoods into their search-box.

Thanks, hey how do I know what kind of brake cable I need? I noticed some of the cables say stuff like "shimano compatible" but my system is a Vienmann, which may not exist. Also I will probably post pics of the frame if it doesn't snow tomorrow, it slipped my mind to take pics today. I'll probably take pics of the wheels though as I have them inside.
And the Molasses idea isn't mine, I found it online haha, dont have the link on hand though but more or less its its a 1:12 ratio of molasses and water, so 12 ounces of molasses mixes with 120 oz (about a gallon) of water, takes 2-4 days to kill all the rust, I periodically check up on stuff every few hours.

Brand-specific cables infer having a head that fits that brand's brake levers. You want non-specific cables (make sure they are BRAKE cables - gear cables can't take the stress of braking and may well bust on you) that have a head on each end. One fits standard brake levers - yours, and the other end will fit cantilevers and v-brakes - not yours. The end that you don't need is snipped off with very sharp cable-cutters. Any decent quality brake-cables will fit the bill.

Here is an example of what you're looking for:

http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=906

Nice upgrade
 

It´s good to see some Inter 10s again. Here is mine with a more original Setup. Well, not really I changed a lot but not as spectacular as you did.

Wow! That's an Inter 10 alright (frame geometry & the label). But I've never seen them as they were sold in Austria. With PUCH written on it with the other frame markings. Nice. Thank you for sharing!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/DSCN1013.jpg

Here are the wheels from last night, I've since worked on them a bit more. Does anyone know how to smooth them out as they are scratched from the sand paper.
And is there anyway to preserve the decals while painting?
I'm thinking I may just cover them in painters tape but I'm not sure how will that will work.
More bike pics to come later on this week! (well more so the frame as it's in pieces haha)

Scratches from sandpaper? Try emery-cloth*. It's a very fine abrasive that should smooth over the scratches. But I wouldn't worry about it too much. The wheels are Cross 3 laced - very good! 5 Spd. freewheel making it a 10 Spd. bicycle. I'd guess a date of 1974 - 1979. But that's a guess. Most imported bikes were running 12 Spd. by 1980 or so.

Someone else will need to address your decal issue - I'm not a bike-painter.

* - http://composite.about.com/library/g...ldef-e1966.htm

well the axel on the back of the back tire says "Italy78" maybe he 78 means 1978?
Also not related to the bike, how is a bike 9 speeds? As I noticed there are 9 speed bikes, wouldnt the 9 have to be divisible by 2?

"As I noticed there are 9 speed bikes, wouldnt the 9 have to be divisible by 2?"

You would think so but this is current "bike speak" & refers to the number of cogs on the rear cassette or the number of rear cogs a shifter will handle, so a "9" speed now actually has either 18 or 27 speeds depending on whether it has a double or triple crankset. Same type language is also used to describe 8 speed (which actually have 16 or 24 speeds) and 10 speed cassette drivetrains (which actually have 20 or 30 speeds).

Do some reading on the Sheldon Brown website linked earlier in this thread & it will answer a lot of your questions. Don

Or you could remove a chainring up front - or two - and have a 9 Spd. cassette on the rear hub. Ta da! One 9 Spd. bicycle. But I've never seen such offered for sale. I did have a 5 Spd. Raleigh Chopper as a kid. 1 up front. Freewheel with 5 cogs in the rear. Huret Allvit rear derailleur (RD). I HATED it!

But I wish I still had it: New-In-Box.

Or in current speak it could refer to a gear hub bike. Currently gear hubs are available with 3, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 14 speeds. 4 and 12 speed gear hubs have also been made. I have 3, 5, 9 and 14 speed versions so far.

I'd say 1978 is right. Do your hubs - what you called "axel" (axle) - have names on them aside from the 78?

Enjoy fixing up your A-D...it will make a good rider. As I am new to the forum as well, thought I would post photos of my A-Ds. The silver bike is an A-D SL...I've owned it for about 30 years, it's the bike that started it all for me. The smoked chrome bike is a Vent Noir II...acquired the near-new condition frame a while back...a fantastic rider.

[IMG]http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/u...d/IMG_0467.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/u...d/IMG_0465.jpg[/IMG]

Very nice! Thanks for posting these. The Vent Noir (Black Wind) had a very funky paint job. It is virtually bomb-proof. Doesn't chip or even scratch without effort. Puch A-D kept their mouthes shut regards what they did. No one has been able to duplicate it.

The hub says "Regina Corsa, Italy78"

Update, well I took apart everything, its just the frame now, most of the parts are derusted or have minimal rust remaining (hard to remove). I'm sanding the frame, I've decided to keep the original color I'm just going to sand the rusted over areas. Pics will come tomorrow or so, photobucket is being lame and the upload feature on this site never works for me.
Also, judging from the pics can anyone tell me what color this bike may be? I have no clue what color paint to look for haha.

I sincerely doubt you'll find a match for that paint. If you have the chance to get the frame professionally painted by an automotive-shop, I'd do it and choose a color they have available. Those strange, speckled paints are just about impossible to duplicate.

If it were a top-end Puch, I wouldn't suggest this. But middle-road ones, I think, can be re-painted as pleases the owner. Especially as a pro job and not a rattle-can from Hell.

+1. One of the things that make A-Ds so distinctive is the subtleties in the paint which is going to be difficult to reproduce on your own. If you were to just make this a ****er or beater bike, rattle-can is fine (as long as you're somewhat skilled with it in the first place). Sounds like you're paying it a little more respect and I would agree that a professional job is the way to go. From your earlier photos, I think the original color was called Azure Blue, for whatever that's worth, but your best bet is to get some color chips (like from House of Color) and get as close as you can.

How much do you suppose it would run me to get it painted at an auto shop?
Like I said earlier my grandpa paints cars all the time but I dunno if he can get a paint color that's similar to this. If the auto shop paint job is going to be alot then I'll probably just have it repainted entirely by my grandpa.

Many times, when friends of mine did this, they'd talk to the painter. If he/she's painting a car, they charge very little if you ask if they could do a bicycle frame at the same time. Being diplomatic (or sneaky) can go a long ways - such as saying you'll tell all your friends (who drive cars) what wonderful service they offer. Then the main thing is to wait for a color, that you like, to be up for someone's vehicle. You won't get the original, but it's okay to customize your machine. After all - it's not a Vent Noir.* After all, it's still a Puch A-D Steyer frame you have.

* You could never duplicate what they used on those! The paint is impervious to scratches. And no one, who will talk, will let on how they did it!

I can't imagine if you're doing a solid color with paint on hand, it would cost too much to have a body shop do it. You can certainly do the primer coat yourself to save some money (again, if you're comfortable with rattle-can and are sure you'll get a nice even finish). I would think at going shop rates, you're probably talking $50 labor and material. Another option is to pop over to the Frame Painters sticky and see if anyone in there can help you out.

* As for the Vent Noir (and the Ultima SL), many of us bought the "impervious" bit in the catalog. Some years later, many of us found that it is in fact pervious. It's true they don't chip or get any deep scratches like a painted frame, but they do develop a lot of fine scratches in the finish just from routine things like being cleaned, etc. And they do over time fade. The problem, as mentioned above, is that the proprietary process means there's not a damn thing that can be done to restore them. All the more important to find one that's been pampered all its life. Still one of the best looking finishes ever though.

I'm rather new so what do you mean by ask the frame painters thread? Ask them about what color it is, or ask around to see if they'd paint it for me?

You could post a thread here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=229

They may be able to steer you towards a skilled painter. Or, at least, give you some ideas.