Show off that Randonneur; and let's discuss the bike, the gear, the sport
#226
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I believe Kawamura made the majority of Nishikis, but that might not apply to all countries. Certainly almost all Canadian Market Nishikis came from Kawamura.
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1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
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#227
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Here is my contribution to the thread. I have been on Randonneur overload lately. I ordered a subscription and all back issues of Bicycle Quarterly and have been reading through all of them since they have arrived. My plan this next year is to do at least one randonneuring event. I have my sights set on a 200k at the end on March in Ohio. This will be the bike I will ride.
The geometry is perfect for a front load (low 40mm of trail depending on tire size) and will be setup that way with maybe a small seat bag for spare tubes and tools. The parts on it have been swapped as I changed up things. This Flickr page has more pics and the previous slightly older setup I just changed.
Current specs are: 1983 Nishiki Seral frame and fork, Cane Creek 100 1" threaded headset, Profile threaded/threadless adapter, Kalloy stem, Salsa Bell Lap bars, Tektro aero brake levers, cinelli gel cork tape, Velo Orange Decaleur, Berthoud GB28 bag in grey, Nitto M12 rack, early 90's Shimano Deore LX canti brakes with V-brake pad holders and salmon Kool stop pads, Thomson seatpost, old Brooks Professional, Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, Dura Ace front derailleur, Ultegra mid-cage rear derailleur, Rival compact crankset (50/34-might go 48/34), Deore XT 11-32 9 speed cassette, SRAM 9 speed chain, Time ATAC pedals, and Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. The wheel are handbuilt by yours trully with Sun CR18 700c rims laced to a 130mm spaced Shimano RSX100 cassette hub and a Shimano DH3-N71 generator hub both using DT Swiss spokes. The hub powers a B&M Cyo led headlight mounted on the Nitto rack. Rear lights (not shown) are PB superflash and a Blackburn Flea both of which are battery powered.


The geometry is perfect for a front load (low 40mm of trail depending on tire size) and will be setup that way with maybe a small seat bag for spare tubes and tools. The parts on it have been swapped as I changed up things. This Flickr page has more pics and the previous slightly older setup I just changed.
Current specs are: 1983 Nishiki Seral frame and fork, Cane Creek 100 1" threaded headset, Profile threaded/threadless adapter, Kalloy stem, Salsa Bell Lap bars, Tektro aero brake levers, cinelli gel cork tape, Velo Orange Decaleur, Berthoud GB28 bag in grey, Nitto M12 rack, early 90's Shimano Deore LX canti brakes with V-brake pad holders and salmon Kool stop pads, Thomson seatpost, old Brooks Professional, Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, Dura Ace front derailleur, Ultegra mid-cage rear derailleur, Rival compact crankset (50/34-might go 48/34), Deore XT 11-32 9 speed cassette, SRAM 9 speed chain, Time ATAC pedals, and Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. The wheel are handbuilt by yours trully with Sun CR18 700c rims laced to a 130mm spaced Shimano RSX100 cassette hub and a Shimano DH3-N71 generator hub both using DT Swiss spokes. The hub powers a B&M Cyo led headlight mounted on the Nitto rack. Rear lights (not shown) are PB superflash and a Blackburn Flea both of which are battery powered.



Last edited by redxj; 12-14-09 at 08:07 PM. Reason: fixed img link
#228
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All the black pieces look really nice with that frame. It seems like silver parts would look pretty ho-hum.
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#229
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Here's my near-twin to Andy's build: a 1972 Raleigh International. The build list for now includes:
--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack
Here's what it looked like before cleanup and retrofit (pretty much stock):

Here's what it looks like now:





More before and after pics here.
Total weight as shown is about 26 lbs. It's been too cold for much test riding but a short shakedown cruise felt very nice--the kind of smooth, fast and comfortable ride that my '71 Int'l gives. I'm psyched.
Neal
--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack
Here's what it looked like before cleanup and retrofit (pretty much stock):
Here's what it looks like now:





More before and after pics here.
Total weight as shown is about 26 lbs. It's been too cold for much test riding but a short shakedown cruise felt very nice--the kind of smooth, fast and comfortable ride that my '71 Int'l gives. I'm psyched.
Neal
#230
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Caught in th act!! Forgot I wrote that. Must have had a bad day on the Cinelli.
Otherwise your post is also very thought provoking. Maybe we simply need to bow to modernity and realize that the technological advancements of our sport are indeed advantageous. I personally have never been on a roadbike newer than 1992, but I'll readily admit that my 2009 Marin 29'er hardtail is vastly superior to all the other MTBs I've owned.
To keep riding way beyond the daily limit, one will likely need as much comfort as performance. In my experience, old racing frames meticulously selected for fit provides this at a reasonable cost. What I don't know is whether a carefully sized, brand new Carbon-TI-Aluminum bike will be equally rideable after hundreds of miles.Obviously it will outperform old steel at all other points.
I also wonder, Junkyardbike, if the two older bikes of yours would rival the Giant beyond, say 200-300 miles, when the subtleties of true comfort really start to matter?
Otherwise your post is also very thought provoking. Maybe we simply need to bow to modernity and realize that the technological advancements of our sport are indeed advantageous. I personally have never been on a roadbike newer than 1992, but I'll readily admit that my 2009 Marin 29'er hardtail is vastly superior to all the other MTBs I've owned.
To keep riding way beyond the daily limit, one will likely need as much comfort as performance. In my experience, old racing frames meticulously selected for fit provides this at a reasonable cost. What I don't know is whether a carefully sized, brand new Carbon-TI-Aluminum bike will be equally rideable after hundreds of miles.Obviously it will outperform old steel at all other points.
I also wonder, Junkyardbike, if the two older bikes of yours would rival the Giant beyond, say 200-300 miles, when the subtleties of true comfort really start to matter?
Dutch racing Mondo Rando.

Bill
Last edited by bmwstbill; 12-13-09 at 07:43 AM.
#231
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here's my first entry into the randonneur arena (sorry no appealing backdrop):
1985 shogun 2000, all japanese components except saddle, replacement bearings and VO bits and pieces!
1985 shogun 2000, all japanese components except saddle, replacement bearings and VO bits and pieces!

#232
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Here's my near-twin to Andy's build: a 1972 Raleigh International. The build list for now includes:
--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack
Here's what it looked like before cleanup and retrofit (pretty much stock):

Here's what it looks like now:

Total weight as shown is about 26 lbs. It's been too cold for much test riding but a short shakedown cruise felt very nice--the kind of smooth, fast and comfortable ride that my '71 Int'l gives. I'm psyched.
Neal
--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack
Here's what it looked like before cleanup and retrofit (pretty much stock):
Here's what it looks like now:

Total weight as shown is about 26 lbs. It's been too cold for much test riding but a short shakedown cruise felt very nice--the kind of smooth, fast and comfortable ride that my '71 Int'l gives. I'm psyched.
Neal
very nice! how funny that we reached such similar conclusions, and within weeks of each other. cheers
#234
Senior Member
it looks nice because it's all prettied up with black powdercoat, new decals and lug details... just waiting to be built up. it was next in queue after the shogun :-).
#235
Senior Member
Here's my near-twin to Andy's build: a 1972 Raleigh International. The build list for now includes:
--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack

--TA double crankset w/ 50/34t rings and TA bottom bracket
--early 80s Shimano Deore mechs, SunTour bar-end shifters
--Weinmann/Raleigh centerpull brakes, Mafac levers
--Mavic Open Pro rims, Challenge tires, rear Campy Tipo hub and front Shimano Ultegra
--Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto randonneur bars, natural cork tape w/ a bunch of coats of amber shellac
--Campy seatpost and Brooks B17 saddle
--Bluemels alloy fenders, V-O front rack

#236
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Thanks, not every day one of my crummy bikes get this sort of attention.
Done a couple of centuries with it and it's one of the few bikes I've used that truly planes. Very comfy even after ten hours in the saddle.
Frame is on the large side but made it possible to adjust the forward position of the Ortlieb bag, ugly but oh so functional, with a shorter stem.
Gave the Bluemel's some go fast stripes but it doesn't look so good up close and I can barely fit 23mm tires.
So it's now my prime candidate for a 650B overhaul! In the background is a statue of Ivar Lo-Johansson who grew up in the woods near by.
Last edited by fenderbender; 02-03-10 at 07:31 AM.
#237
Mostly Mischief
Thread Starter
Goddag fra en tidligere nabo en smule sydfra.
Not so crummy from what I've heard. Nice set-up; where did you post this originally? And, with that big bag up there, does the handlebar stay steady riding no hands?
Not so crummy from what I've heard. Nice set-up; where did you post this originally? And, with that big bag up there, does the handlebar stay steady riding no hands?
#238
Senior Member
I've acquired and begun updating a Bianchi Randonneur for some light touring and long distance riding. I have a few different rack choices ahead of me, so I am not sure where I will be going with those.

I've added a seat, some gold fenders (I thought they'd be garish but they're not too bad), as well as v-brakes and aero levers (I had them on hand already and they seem to work well). I also put narrower tires on it, as it had 38s when I took that picture, I've gone down to 28s. I'll likely change the BB over to a sealed unit whenever it needs to be serviced, as well as upgrade the wheelset in the next year to something with a 40 spoke rear, maybe some dyads; I'm a bit of a clyde. I'm really started to like the bike... gonna do a few centuries as soon as the snow is gone

I've added a seat, some gold fenders (I thought they'd be garish but they're not too bad), as well as v-brakes and aero levers (I had them on hand already and they seem to work well). I also put narrower tires on it, as it had 38s when I took that picture, I've gone down to 28s. I'll likely change the BB over to a sealed unit whenever it needs to be serviced, as well as upgrade the wheelset in the next year to something with a 40 spoke rear, maybe some dyads; I'm a bit of a clyde. I'm really started to like the bike... gonna do a few centuries as soon as the snow is gone

#239
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My guess is that Jet got them of the RBW mail list. The bag sit too far forward even with a 90mm stem. So I put the tools in a small seat bag and only have some snacks, rain jacket etc. up front. Done a few S240 trips with a Carradice seat bag but that was pushing it a bit. It's ok to ride no hands for a while with out any shimmy but the 1 inch tubes are quite flexy and a they later went OS. There was a nice article in the latest RR about this. With a proper front bag, decaliure and bag support the weight would come back further and give it a neutral handling. Got some 80's Sugino AT double cranks and other parts pending a rebuild. It's all on my short list but will have to wait until I get my other projects sorted some time next millennium.

Last edited by fenderbender; 02-03-10 at 07:40 AM.
#240
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I've acquired and begun updating a Bianchi Randonneur for some light touring and long distance riding. I have a few different rack choices ahead of me, so I am not sure where I will be going with those.
I've added a seat, some gold fenders (I thought they'd be garish but they're not too bad), as well as v-brakes and aero levers (I had them on hand already and they seem to work well). I also put narrower tires on it, as it had 38s when I took that picture, I've gone down to 28s. I'll likely change the BB over to a sealed unit whenever it needs to be serviced, as well as upgrade the wheelset in the next year to something with a 40 spoke rear, maybe some dyads; I'm a bit of a clyde. I'm really started to like the bike... gonna do a few centuries as soon as the snow is gone
I've added a seat, some gold fenders (I thought they'd be garish but they're not too bad), as well as v-brakes and aero levers (I had them on hand already and they seem to work well). I also put narrower tires on it, as it had 38s when I took that picture, I've gone down to 28s. I'll likely change the BB over to a sealed unit whenever it needs to be serviced, as well as upgrade the wheelset in the next year to something with a 40 spoke rear, maybe some dyads; I'm a bit of a clyde. I'm really started to like the bike... gonna do a few centuries as soon as the snow is gone

If they're not broken some cleaning and new pads/wires should do it.
I've yet to find a modern V-brake that offer equally good modulation and style.

#241
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#242
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Okay, here's the finished build... well, finished for now, of course... new wheels are far in the future. I'd like to get a different rack for the front, at some point... someone cut the middle rail out of this rack, and it's silver




Last edited by clasher; 02-03-10 at 11:20 AM.
#243
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Along with the Nishiki I posted up at the beginning of this page I have added another Rando bike. This one is not C&V, but is still steel. It is a 64cm Kogswell P/R 700c. I bought the frameset on Ebay in December, and built it up with almost everything from the parts bins. I borrowed the light and Nitto M12 rack from the Nishiki to put on it. I have since bought another M12 for the Nishiki, but haven't put another light back on it yet. I still need to do a few things as the rear end of the frame is a little out of whack, and plan to change up the crankset to get a 46/30t double.

#244
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[QUOTE=clasher;10355644]The cantis have original pads on the front and they are bricks. The back cantis have cheap v-brake pads that are also hard as rocks. One of the levers didn't seem to be working... if I find the Vs lacking I'll spring for some new cantis and use the long-pull levers on something else, but I wanted aero levers and I only had the long-pulls on hand. New kool-stop pads would have cost me more than setting this up 
Okay, here's the finished build... well, finished for now, of course... new wheels are far in the future. I'd like to get a different rack for the front, at some point... someone cut the middle rail out of this rack, and it's silver

I see, looks like a great all-rounder! What make is the front rack?

Okay, here's the finished build... well, finished for now, of course... new wheels are far in the future. I'd like to get a different rack for the front, at some point... someone cut the middle rail out of this rack, and it's silver


I see, looks like a great all-rounder! What make is the front rack?
#245
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Here is my contribution to the thread. I have been on Randonneur overload lately. I ordered a subscription and all back issues of Bicycle Quarterly and have been reading through all of them since they have arrived. My plan this next year is to do at least one randonneuring event. I have my sights set on a 200k at the end on March in Ohio. This will be the bike I will ride.
The geometry is perfect for a front load (low 40mm of trail depending on tire size) and will be setup that way with maybe a small seat bag for spare tubes and tools. The parts on it have been swapped as I changed up things. This Flickr page has more pics and the previous slightly older setup I just changed.
Current specs are: 1983 Nishiki Seral frame and fork, Cane Creek 100 1" threaded headset, Profile threaded/threadless adapter, Kalloy stem, Salsa Bell Lap bars, Tektro aero brake levers, cinelli gel cork tape, Velo Orange Decaleur, Berthoud GB28 bag in grey, Nitto M12 rack, early 90's Shimano Deore LX canti brakes with V-brake pad holders and salmon Kool stop pads, Thomson seatpost, old Brooks Professional, Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, Dura Ace front derailleur, Ultegra mid-cage rear derailleur, Rival compact crankset (50/34-might go 48/34), Deore XT 11-32 9 speed cassette, SRAM 9 speed chain, Time ATAC pedals, and Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. The wheel are handbuilt by yours trully with Sun CR18 700c rims laced to a 130mm spaced Shimano RSX100 cassette hub and a Shimano DH3-N71 generator hub both using DT Swiss spokes. The hub powers a B&M Cyo led headlight mounted on the Nitto rack. Rear lights (not shown) are PB superflash and a Blackburn Flea both of which are battery powered.



The geometry is perfect for a front load (low 40mm of trail depending on tire size) and will be setup that way with maybe a small seat bag for spare tubes and tools. The parts on it have been swapped as I changed up things. This Flickr page has more pics and the previous slightly older setup I just changed.
Current specs are: 1983 Nishiki Seral frame and fork, Cane Creek 100 1" threaded headset, Profile threaded/threadless adapter, Kalloy stem, Salsa Bell Lap bars, Tektro aero brake levers, cinelli gel cork tape, Velo Orange Decaleur, Berthoud GB28 bag in grey, Nitto M12 rack, early 90's Shimano Deore LX canti brakes with V-brake pad holders and salmon Kool stop pads, Thomson seatpost, old Brooks Professional, Shimano Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, Dura Ace front derailleur, Ultegra mid-cage rear derailleur, Rival compact crankset (50/34-might go 48/34), Deore XT 11-32 9 speed cassette, SRAM 9 speed chain, Time ATAC pedals, and Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. The wheel are handbuilt by yours trully with Sun CR18 700c rims laced to a 130mm spaced Shimano RSX100 cassette hub and a Shimano DH3-N71 generator hub both using DT Swiss spokes. The hub powers a B&M Cyo led headlight mounted on the Nitto rack. Rear lights (not shown) are PB superflash and a Blackburn Flea both of which are battery powered.



I have three frames that "follow me home" and now pending restoration. Oh my!
#246
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This vintage bike will be my wet road bike and will be used for commuting, long-distance riding and light touring. I rode 5000 miles in 2009 and am planning a dozen century rides in 2010.
The bike is a 63mm sized 1987 Trek 400D Elance. It's a mid-level "sport/touring" model. It has a Reynolds 531 main triangle, Shimano Drivetrain with a 14-28 6 speed freewheel and a 52 & 40t crankset. The 700c wheels are cheap and will be replaced.
The fit is ideal for me, the bike also has attachment points for fenders. The seller said he got it at a house sale and had to spend a couple hours cleaning it up. He admitted to being a flipper and other bikes were in the background. I rode the bike for about a half mile, it shifted perfectly, the brakes were operational (if not too precise) and it was stable enough for no-hands travel. It does look all-original, without much use. The kind of bike that can be found at a house sale. The seller took a set of photos, the link is below;
Last fall, I converted my 2008 Soma from a double crankset to a triple. After the conversion, I ended up with an extra Ultegra 10 speed FD, RD, 11-25 cassette, a new 105 chain, along with a Sram 46 & 38t Cyclocross Crankset & BB. I also had a Mavic Open Pro W/ 36 spoke Dura Ace hub rear wheel I purchased on eBay last year.
I only needed to get a front wheel and shifters to upgrade the Trek 400D Elance to a modern 2x10 drivetrain. I found new Dura Ace 10 speed bar-end shifters from Nashbar for $50 and purchased a 32 spoke 105 hub for $15. I had the bike shop source a matching 32 spoke Open Pro rim & spokes, the new front wheel cost about $150 in total. The bike shop stripped the bike of all parts, applied Framesaver and rebuilt the bike for $225 in labor. I have about $750 in the bike at this point. Not cheap, but the result is excellent, IMO.
The bike is 22 lbs with the Brooks seat. This is a slighter lighter weight than the Soma. Mechanically, the bike gets an A+. The frame is responsive, stable and fun to ride. Much smoother riding than a modern Aluminum bike. The drivetrain is quick shifting and the gear set with 46 & 38t chainrings and a 11-25 10 speed cassette has a tight range. I can travel at any speed from 10 to 33 mph and always maintain my target cadence of 85 to 100 rpm.
Aesthetics need improving. Some tape is on the stem, seatpost and crank arms that I will remove. The front reflector needs to go. The brown tape on the handlebars is not the espresso brown (almost black) color I was hoping for. I'll install black when I change the tape in the future
The bike is a 63mm sized 1987 Trek 400D Elance. It's a mid-level "sport/touring" model. It has a Reynolds 531 main triangle, Shimano Drivetrain with a 14-28 6 speed freewheel and a 52 & 40t crankset. The 700c wheels are cheap and will be replaced.
The fit is ideal for me, the bike also has attachment points for fenders. The seller said he got it at a house sale and had to spend a couple hours cleaning it up. He admitted to being a flipper and other bikes were in the background. I rode the bike for about a half mile, it shifted perfectly, the brakes were operational (if not too precise) and it was stable enough for no-hands travel. It does look all-original, without much use. The kind of bike that can be found at a house sale. The seller took a set of photos, the link is below;
Last fall, I converted my 2008 Soma from a double crankset to a triple. After the conversion, I ended up with an extra Ultegra 10 speed FD, RD, 11-25 cassette, a new 105 chain, along with a Sram 46 & 38t Cyclocross Crankset & BB. I also had a Mavic Open Pro W/ 36 spoke Dura Ace hub rear wheel I purchased on eBay last year.
I only needed to get a front wheel and shifters to upgrade the Trek 400D Elance to a modern 2x10 drivetrain. I found new Dura Ace 10 speed bar-end shifters from Nashbar for $50 and purchased a 32 spoke 105 hub for $15. I had the bike shop source a matching 32 spoke Open Pro rim & spokes, the new front wheel cost about $150 in total. The bike shop stripped the bike of all parts, applied Framesaver and rebuilt the bike for $225 in labor. I have about $750 in the bike at this point. Not cheap, but the result is excellent, IMO.
The bike is 22 lbs with the Brooks seat. This is a slighter lighter weight than the Soma. Mechanically, the bike gets an A+. The frame is responsive, stable and fun to ride. Much smoother riding than a modern Aluminum bike. The drivetrain is quick shifting and the gear set with 46 & 38t chainrings and a 11-25 10 speed cassette has a tight range. I can travel at any speed from 10 to 33 mph and always maintain my target cadence of 85 to 100 rpm.
Aesthetics need improving. Some tape is on the stem, seatpost and crank arms that I will remove. The front reflector needs to go. The brown tape on the handlebars is not the espresso brown (almost black) color I was hoping for. I'll install black when I change the tape in the future

Last edited by Barrettscv; 02-04-10 at 08:36 AM.
#247
Senior Member
Someone mentioned that randonneuring is known in the UK as audax. I was intrigued by the origin of the different terms - it's all new to a convert to tarmac like me. I thought maybe you might be interested in this from the Wiki of 'Audax'. (Sorry if I'm teaching anyone to suck eggs.)
On June 12, 1897, twelve Italian cyclists attempted the challenge of cycling from Rome to Naples, a distance of 230 km, during daylight hours. Nine succeeded. This is credited as an early example of randonneuring. Their attempt was described as 'daring' where the word audax is a form of the Italian/Latinate word "audace" meaning "audacious"
The full thing is here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audax_%28cycling%29
On June 12, 1897, twelve Italian cyclists attempted the challenge of cycling from Rome to Naples, a distance of 230 km, during daylight hours. Nine succeeded. This is credited as an early example of randonneuring. Their attempt was described as 'daring' where the word audax is a form of the Italian/Latinate word "audace" meaning "audacious"
The full thing is here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audax_%28cycling%29
#248
Senior Member
#249
consilio et animis
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Suedé
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Bikes: It's not 'bout the bike!
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Reason for me asking is that the front look like a alu version of this French style Nitto rack.

The eyelets on the side indicate it maybe missing the lowrider bag mounts like those on the Nitto above. They also make a matching rear that would perfect for your bike.

Its made from thick gauge cromo steel tubes and nickel plated witch is very hard wearing. Unlike the welded Surly and Tubus racks Nitto's are brazed and the ends of the tubes are all sealed. It therefore lack the drilled holes for weld gases so there's less chance of corrosion from rain water. Cost is high and not easy to source but stronger than any other make and IMHO better looking so well worth it!
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...33c8a8c9322854
https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...33c8a8c9322854
I replaced my black Tubus with these for my mtb-road-tourer:
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...k-nitto/20-022
https://www.rivbike.com/products/show...k-nitto/20-075
The fit is better with the smaller wheels that the French style Campee.
Very pleased with them so far.
Last edited by fenderbender; 02-05-10 at 04:44 AM.
#250
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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2009 custom Capricorn Randonneur
My Capricornneur...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3701719...7618564588761/
Custom built by Brad Wilson - frame specs lifted from a '56 Singer. Parts spec and assembly by me.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/3701719...7618564588761/
Custom built by Brad Wilson - frame specs lifted from a '56 Singer. Parts spec and assembly by me.