Show off that Randonneur; and let's discuss the bike, the gear, the sport
#276
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I guess that is the way it goes. I have seen quite a few threads dissing 650B bikes...all by folks that have never ridden one....internet experts. I got a good deal on the Bleriot and there may still be some frames around. Here is a link to conversions: https://www.bikeman.com/content/view/1161/33/ The BB is lower and you do have to be careful in corners.
#277
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I wouldn't waste your time with contacting Kogswell. Even if he would actually answer an email or the phone I bet he has nothing for stock. There hasn't been a new shipment of Kogswell P/Rs or forks in a long time. In fact Kogswell is going to now concentrate on 26" (559) wheels only. Longleaf bicycles in North Carolina is going to take over the 650B Kogswell production from now on. They had a few 1" forks a while back, but all were 650b. The 700c Kogswell forks are 1 1/8", set up for canti brakes, and have a long axle to crown measurement. The rake on those is/was 58mm. If Anthony at Longleaf is smart he will make a 1" conversion fork with 58mm or more rake with or without canti posts and if he can keep them around $100 would sell a ton of those.
#278
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I wouldn't waste your time with contacting Kogswell. Even if he would actually answer an email or the phone I bet he has nothing for stock. There hasn't been a new shipment of Kogswell P/Rs or forks in a long time. In fact Kogswell is going to now concentrate on 26" (559) wheels only. Longleaf bicycles in North Carolina is going to take over the 650B Kogswell production from now on. They had a few 1" forks a while back, but all were 650b. The 700c Kogswell forks are 1 1/8", set up for canti brakes, and have a long axle to crown measurement. The rake on those is/was 58mm. If Anthony at Longleaf is smart he will make a 1" conversion fork with 58mm or more rake with or without canti posts and if he can keep them around $100 would sell a ton of those.
#280
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Right-click, "view image", to view full size:







1983 Peugeot UO14, and yes I adjusted the front fender strut & a few other things since these photos were taken. Silca pump now in the umbrella and a stainless water bottle in the cage fills out the frame nicely. Eventually changing to 700c wheels w/dynamo kit and probably some nice Acorn bags.







1983 Peugeot UO14, and yes I adjusted the front fender strut & a few other things since these photos were taken. Silca pump now in the umbrella and a stainless water bottle in the cage fills out the frame nicely. Eventually changing to 700c wheels w/dynamo kit and probably some nice Acorn bags.
Last edited by Fenway; 06-17-11 at 08:40 AM.
#281
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^ Looks great! But how about a rear mudflap for those rain-splattered riders behind you! (I confess that neither I nor anyone I ride with has a rear mud flap, so we take turns spraying each other on rainy rides).
Neal
Neal
#282
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Well I'll post the bike I do rando events on.
It's not C&V nor a "rando" bike, but it sure does wok good.
It's not C&V nor a "rando" bike, but it sure does wok good.
#284
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I now have a head full of ideas and my wife wil not be happy, thanks to all for a better explanation or picture of what a "Rando" is or is thought to be.
#288
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For the historical record, here is my now finished Bianchi Randonneur.
I fought my instincts and kept it largely stock except for the 700 wheels and the right bar end shifter. The ARX components are actually very smooth.
I took it out for a quick 20 this morning before family started to congregate. It is a very different ride. Although I love the look of touring bikes, I really don't like the belabored dull ride. This ride is neither tourer or crit bike. The long trail is very noticeable at first and feels tiller like at lower speeds. As speed increases, the bike tracks very well and even allows someone as clumsy and me to ride for some distance no hands. However, when you start to hammer, it reacts much more quickly than a tourer and corners well.
A good 4th to all.
RFC

I fought my instincts and kept it largely stock except for the 700 wheels and the right bar end shifter. The ARX components are actually very smooth.
I took it out for a quick 20 this morning before family started to congregate. It is a very different ride. Although I love the look of touring bikes, I really don't like the belabored dull ride. This ride is neither tourer or crit bike. The long trail is very noticeable at first and feels tiller like at lower speeds. As speed increases, the bike tracks very well and even allows someone as clumsy and me to ride for some distance no hands. However, when you start to hammer, it reacts much more quickly than a tourer and corners well.
A good 4th to all.
RFC


#289
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Been thinking about a lightweight randoneusse with a Rohloff Speedhub for a few years, and finally got around to it.

The hub is nice overall, but I can see why it hasn't gotten a whole lot of play in randonneuring circles. It's kind of heavy, and kind of noisy. But for a "cyclo muletisme" for mixed terrain in the mountains, it should be perfect.
Also FWIW, I've continued to learn and experiment with front end geometry. This frame is probably the last "experimental" one with 650b for me. It's the 73 degree parallel with 73 mm of fork rake that Jan Jeine has heaped so much praise on, and (drum roll please) I hate it. It's way too unstable, especially at very low speeds, and simply requires far too much attention. A replacement fork with 60mm of rake is at the painters right now and should make the bike very friendly. The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb...
So I no longer care about geometry and don't plan to build anything outside of those parameters, unless maybe I make myself a track bike someday.

The hub is nice overall, but I can see why it hasn't gotten a whole lot of play in randonneuring circles. It's kind of heavy, and kind of noisy. But for a "cyclo muletisme" for mixed terrain in the mountains, it should be perfect.
Also FWIW, I've continued to learn and experiment with front end geometry. This frame is probably the last "experimental" one with 650b for me. It's the 73 degree parallel with 73 mm of fork rake that Jan Jeine has heaped so much praise on, and (drum roll please) I hate it. It's way too unstable, especially at very low speeds, and simply requires far too much attention. A replacement fork with 60mm of rake is at the painters right now and should make the bike very friendly. The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb...
So I no longer care about geometry and don't plan to build anything outside of those parameters, unless maybe I make myself a track bike someday.
#290
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It is possibly the most inherently stable bike I've ever ridden. I had it out around town on its shakedown ride a couple weeks ago, and I found myself looking for rougher and rougher sections of pavement. I finally found some good long stretches of brick-surfaced streets and tried it out. No hands, ma, even at slow walking speeds! It really, really wants to ride on the front contact patch-- it will tolerate about a degree of deviation from straight ahead and perfectly vertical before it starts to turn. It's not sluggish, not by any stretch of the imagination-- and the harder I ride, the more responsive it gets-- it's just quite well grounded. The bars very much encourage riding in the drops, and the combination of bar-ends/Suntour Cyclone/Dura-Ace makes for shifting so smooth it makes silk look like burlap.

This also shows, or would if it were taken in bright sunlight, the Cyclone RD I polished to within an inch of its life. That's a Normandy Luxe Comp (red label) hub, by the way, in a Super Champion rim. The front is a Rigida, tires are Conti Ultra Sports in 27x1-1/8" because that's what fits. I suppose that I would have to find another fender if I wanted to actually run a proper-sized rando tire, but isn't that what Velo Orange is for?

Needs a front rack and a saddlebag to be propah. For that, I need to get another two pair of eyelets and maybe a set of rack eyes added as well. Maybe later this year, the good Lloyd willing and the creek don't come up too far....
#291
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Been thinking about a lightweight randoneusse with a Rohloff Speedhub for a few years, and finally got around to it.

The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb..

The bottom line is that I'd pretty much decided that 73 degrees with 50 to 65 mm of rake was adequate for almost anything, and then Jan mentioned that Jack Taylor had decided that 73 degrees and two to two-an-a-half inches of raked worked for everything the made. A bit of quick math showed that two inches is about 50mm and two-and-a-half inches is about 64mm. Light bulb..
I've been trying to understand front-end geometries, and the more I think I understand them in theory, the less the experimental outcomes bear them out. I recently did a 650B conversion of an 80s Japanses touring frame: Parallel 73 degree geometry and 57mm rake yields 44mm trail with 42mm tires. So it's right smack in the middle of those Jack Taylor numbers, yet I feel that the front end is too heavy with anything more than a few pounds in the front bag. I've been lamenting not having had the fork re-raked to give me lower trail in the Jane Heine range, but I'm starting to think now that that doing so may not have guaranteed better results.
#293
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Are you running without a front derailer? I don't see one.
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/
#294
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Are you running without a front derailer? I don't see one.
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/
I have thought about doing that, like the Cranes did on their ride to the center of the earth https://web.archive.org/web/200412110...tup.net/crane/

#295
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Thanks for the kind words, southpawboston. Building all these frames has really added to my little pile of knowledge re. bicycle handling.
Interesting that our experiences have differed - but then, my experiences differ from Heine's too, so...
I have long suspected that geometry is only part of the puzzle, with things like body weight and positioning also playing a part. And of course pure old-fashioned personal preferences! I have always preferred a bike on the stable end of things, even when I was racing. Others like the hair-trigger bikes. C'est la vie. I guess we all just have to try out a dozen different geometries until we've settled on our favorite. Should make the framebuilders happy!
Interesting that our experiences have differed - but then, my experiences differ from Heine's too, so...
I have long suspected that geometry is only part of the puzzle, with things like body weight and positioning also playing a part. And of course pure old-fashioned personal preferences! I have always preferred a bike on the stable end of things, even when I was racing. Others like the hair-trigger bikes. C'est la vie. I guess we all just have to try out a dozen different geometries until we've settled on our favorite. Should make the framebuilders happy!
#296
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The French (we are talking about a French sport) preferred front loads and designed the geometry of the bike to suit that. The rake of the fork and headtube angles are different than just about every bike out there....They are very purpose built.
The link with an explanation:
https://www.momentumplanet.com/ecstat...anic/what-fork
The link with an explanation:
https://www.momentumplanet.com/ecstat...anic/what-fork
#297
Senior Member
just finished my "rando" build. enjoy!
70's Raleigh International
Nitto Noodle bars w/ mafac drilled levers
Shimano 600EX hubs laced to weinmann concave 700 rims
Panaracer Pasela non-TG 32s
Sugino PX crank w/ TA rings
Dia Compe Centerpulls w/ VO squeal free pads
Brooks B17 on a 3ttt post
Campy chorus pedals
Suntour V GT lux RD
Suntour Sprint FD
Suntour power rachet downtube shifters
Ostrich front and rear bags
still have to put on the honjo's


The ride is really quite amazing! Easy to ride hands free, fairly responsive, quick.
70's Raleigh International
Nitto Noodle bars w/ mafac drilled levers
Shimano 600EX hubs laced to weinmann concave 700 rims
Panaracer Pasela non-TG 32s
Sugino PX crank w/ TA rings
Dia Compe Centerpulls w/ VO squeal free pads
Brooks B17 on a 3ttt post
Campy chorus pedals
Suntour V GT lux RD
Suntour Sprint FD
Suntour power rachet downtube shifters
Ostrich front and rear bags
still have to put on the honjo's


The ride is really quite amazing! Easy to ride hands free, fairly responsive, quick.
https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=inte...ll&ct=6&m=tags
#298
~>~