Schwinn World
 

Hi, I'm new to the world of road biking but have years of previous BMX experience. Anyway, I just picked up this Schwinn World from my boss for $25. Its been sitting in his basement collecting dust for the past 10 years or so. It seems to be in great shape other than having dust all over it.

I was hoping you guys could help me figure out what year it is and the exact model. I think it's just a regular World but I'm not positive. The serial number on the rear dropout is GD703838 The number on the bottom of the top tube by the steering tube is G2 and F0 on the bottom tube. I tried doing a serial number search but didn't find much. It also has JCY Tech D87 hubs, Star levers, and Suntour controls if that means anything. Like I said, I'm brand new to all of this. Also, how does this bike rank? Is it a good bike, piece of junk, solid but old...?

The tires are old and dry rotted. Wal-mart has tubes for $3.50 and tires for $15. The bike shop I visited earlier today said their tires and tubes were about $25 and $6 respectively. Is there much of a difference between the Bell tire at Wal-mart and a tube a local triathlon shop would carry? I'm not racing, just looking to get in shape and commute to work. I don't want to put a ton of money into the bike but I don't want to be illogically stingy either.

Thanks for reading :thumb: Here are some pics:

[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...d/HPIM0978.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...d/HPIM0979.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...d/HPIM0980.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...d/HPIM0981.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...d/HPIM0983.jpg[/IMG]

Check the 4 digit number stamped on the head badge. First three numbers are the date, last number is the year (ex: 1008 = 100th day of 78 / 88 / etc). Since your bike does not have indexed shifting, I'm guessing your bike to be around 87-88ish. It was manufactured by Giant, and was 3rd from the bottom in the model line. It came with a lugged steel frame, alloy rims w/ F.QR, and ok components. Decent enough bike for $25.

GregG

That for the reply Greg. That's the thing. I can't find the number on the head badge. I would assume that the head badge is the Schwinn emblem in one of the pictures I posted?

What's F.QR?

Thanks

I would be stingy on that bike myself. The World model is essentially an asian built Varsity. Bottom end bike. Sold one earlier this year for $90.

As far as year, just do a search of the forum. Someone has a site with all the Schwinn brochures from the 1980s. And all of your components have date codes, which can be looked up on the vintage trek site.

I was looking at the same model/color (presumably year) on eBay a couple days ago. I couldn't find it in any of the 80's catalogs, however the World models have always been at the lower end of the line.

Sure does look clean and shiny though. Nothing wrong with a low end frame...if you like it and it fits you, you can do a lot with it. Plenty of us love our Schwinn Varsities and they are tanks.

I'd be stingy with it - spend more money relocating your shifters and getting a nicer looking seat. I hate stem shifters.

Good looking bike.

The price was right. you could put another hundred in and still sell it at your cost (here, anyway) - dunno where you are.

It appears to be an 87 model when compared to this page - http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1987_10.html

My 87 Traveler's head badge stamp is very light, take another look, then again it could be possible the imported bikes no longer had the head badge stamp. My bike was a Mississippi built frame.

Yet, you did not pay to much and this bike will serve your purposes very well. The Bell tires will be good for you as well, and tubes are pretty much the same, as I was told once long ago, if it holds air, it is good!

I just purchased a 25" LeTour, 81 model, and the guy but these tires on it to sell it ride ready, at 15 a piece, I got a great deal on the bike. The paint is 9.5 out of 10, just the decals are flaking.

I like the decal placement on yor bike as well as the white frame.

Enjoy:thumb:

Here is a set of wheels in my area: http://http://minneapolis.craigslist...137886592.html

By the time I buy tires tubes and cone wrenchs I'll have about paid for these wheels. You'll have to excuse my extreme ignorance but would these wheels fit my bike? First off, are they any good? I just know I've seen people throw the name Mavic around here on the boards.

Thanks again

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/bik/1137886592.html

fixed the link for you, those are pretty nice wheels, probably too nice for that bike, but a good buy, and nice upgrade.

Thanks for the fixing the link. Would the wheels fit my bike?

they should fit fine, the only time you need to worry is if the brakes have enough reach(usually 4mm going from 27 to 700c), and your brakes appear to have plenty of reach

also, +1 about the seat, that thing looks terrible. You might want to consider adjusting the handlebars so the bottom of the drops are parallel to the ground, and possibly wrap the bars with new tape instead of that foam stuff

Buy those wheels - if the bike doesn't work for you, you can always keep those and put them on something else.

Yeah, there's a one of those gel slip covers over the original seat. Do you guys have any recommendations for a budget minded seat that looks good and is comfortable?

Go to a local bike shop and chekc their takeoff bin - that is the best way to get a good inexpensive seat.

Actually the proper position of the handlebars should be so that the bottom flats of the bar are pointing toward the rear axle. This should allow you to have a proper reach and weight distribution in the drops, allowing for the length of the frame. If the drops are flat, you will be twisting your wrists away from you to grip the bar in the drops, for good support your wrists should be straight, distributing your upper body evenly between so it can allow making shifts on the down tubes.

For the rims, your brake pads should be able to be lowered 1/4" or more, and also confirm the width of the rear axle matches your World. Not certain if the World uses 120MM spacing, or 128 MM width as many index spaced freewheels require.

The foam grips will break down over time and will loose the vibration dampening effect by the end of the season, a good cork bar wrap in your color of choice may provide you a sleeker look and allow you to personalize as the white frame could be made to look more stunning with a color wrap.

As for the wheel bearings, my LBS charged about $15 for a pair and another $15 to true them. You bike should be fitted with Weinmann alloy rims, worth the cost to repair and lube job to utilize.

there is no way I could comfortably use any part of the bars, except the flats, if I did this, but its a personal thing.

One thing I noticed in that CL ad was that those wheels are a 7 speed. Will I be able to adapt those to my 10 speed World. Can I swap cassettes?

You'll need a 7 speed Shimano Cassette for those wheels. You can get one on ebay for 30 bux.

Your Derailleur thats on there should work with 7 speed.

Thanks Craven! How much are those wheels really worth? Would I be stupid to not buy them or am I just spending money where I don't need to?

Thanks

depends on how bad your current wheels are. If they are steel (check with a refrigerator magnet and see if it sticks) replace them with those ebay wheels. If they aren't steel and they aren't bent up or anything I'd just keep em and put the money towards new tires, or brake pads, or a saddle.

That said, those wheels are a very good deal.

regarding tubes, you can get away with the Wal-Fart tubes for 8 bux just fine. Those 30 dollar triathlon shop tubes are probably presta valve anyway which your current wheels aren't drilled for.

I would buy those wheels. The bike may not be "all that" but it is a decent bike if it fits. I rode mine today that is not as nice as yours and had a great time. +1 on Craven Moarhead. if your wheels are steel then definitaly yes.

I ride on steel wheels and have a good time, so if they are sold already then don't worry to much about it.

Stem shifters are ok. not really racy but they tend to work. look around at things that other people have before you get all exited and start your upgrades.

the thing to remember is that it is a bike, not an investment in your portfolio. That bike needs to be made a comfortable tool for moving your body around and doing it well. After you have a stable filled with tange, colombus, 531, and Vitus(yes vitus, I like vitus tubing) you may find yourself grabbing that bike "just because". good luck.

From the factory your model of bike was fitted with Weinmann rims, alloy, and they should be stamp as such.

What is unusual is for Weinmann rims to be fitted with a bolt axle on the rear, all that I have seen are QR. The specs indicated both wheels were QR, front QR, rear bolted. If alloy will save you some money and worry about the proper fit.

I would ride the bike as is, but I would make a serious effort to pick up all the crap in the back yard.

I don't understand why this bike needs new wheels.

New shifters, new bar tape, new saddle if you want. You're good to go.