Miele BINOVA Geometry....???
 

I recently picked up a nice older 80's Miele frame and I want to build it up into a stylish beater bike that I can lock up and not worry about it.

Its a BINOVA with Plain Gauge Ishwata 4130 tubing. Lugged, fork is ok, etc.

Now, the geometry kinda throw me a curve.... It has a 52.5cm Seat tube and a 56-57cm top tube.. c-c ..the bike has eyelets for fenders (which will go on) but I haven't really heard of bike frames designed with more than a cm or two of top tube compared to seat tube.

I don't know the Seat tube/head tube angles....

Speaking of seat tube, does anyone know the standard for Ishiwata tubing? i thought maybe 27.2mm but only my 26.8mm fits snugly...

thanks in advance!

oh also, how much are bottom brackets for older bikes like this.. they kinda sit inside the shell and just have threaded rings on either end that hold it in place?

It's normal for small frames to be oversquare (i,e, top tubes longer than the seat tube) but that does seem to be a bit stretched. Unfortunately, Miele did not publish their geometry measurements. However, it was a sports model, so the angles will be relatively slack.

The Binova should use an English threaded bottom bracket. A traditional ball and cup bottom bracket will start at about $10-$12 CDN. A more modern, maintenance free, cartridge bottom bracket will start at about $15.00 CDN, though it will require dedicated tools. Of course, the prices go up from there, depending on the level.

27.2mm is a common seat post size for a typical butted tubeset, with a single butted seat tube. Plain gauge CrMo (4130) typically run from 26.2mm - 26.8mm.

BTW, I suspect your Binova is closer to mid-1980s, circa 1985-1986. I'd appreciate a good , drive pic and the serial number.

t-mar, thanks much for once again, dishing the scoop on a very forgotten and obscure model of bike. its one thing to know the Ferrari's and Lambos of the scene but this is like knowing a Hyundai pony.

so a plain gauge tube is usually thicker than butted tubing at its ends? double butted should make for a much lighter tubeset.

I am starting to think this ride is going to feel pretty stretched out. Not sure if you frequent torontos craigslist but the frame was the $20 special going on Monday...

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/9702/miele.jpg

I'll get you a clearer pic, however, there is no markings of a serial number on the BB... the fork has some nice stickers on it tho

http://images.craigslist.org/3p53oa3...f95f471f7b.jpg

According to my literature, there was no Binova in 1988, and the colour (Icy Pink fade to white) does not match 1987, so it should be 1985 or 1986. Check the bottom of the seat tube, in the vicinity of the front derailleur mount, for the serial number.

Most butted seat tubes are single butted. The thick end goes is at the bottom to stiffen the bottom bracket area under hard pedal strokes. The top end is thinner and the same thickness as the middle, because the seat post itself adds strength to this portion of the tube.

Plain gauge seat tubes are the same thickness along their entire length to cut manufacturing costs. Without the thinning in the middle and top , they are heavier and require a smaller diameter post.

thanks again.

im pretty sure this thread wont get many views so this one is for t-mar@!!

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8083/img0136aur.jpg
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8313/img0135z.jpg