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It doesn't matter under most conditions, but at high speed in a crosswind my Capo, with its somewhat long fork rake and long wheelbase, feels considerably less twitchy than my Bianchi.
The Capo certainly is comfortable over bumps. :) |
Taking things to the extreme... <68 degree frame angles, trail in the 4 inch range, a fork that was designed to function as a secondary shock absorber, an immense wheelbase, and oversized 28 inch wheels makes for one incredibly plush ride.
Add to that a rear ward riding position that un-weights the handlebars and you have a bike that has a ride quality that is, in my experience, without equal. I have ridden a number of Raleigh Tourists and although they share the same geometry and parts I find that my '48 Rudge has an even nicer ride. That might have something to do with how the frames were built and the materials that were used. http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...illebooth1.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 8837913)
Taking things to the extreme... <68 degree frame angles, trail in the 4 inch range, a fork that was designed to function as a secondary shock absorber, an immense wheelbase, and oversized 28 inch wheels makes for one incredibly plush ride.
Add to that a rear ward riding position that un-weights the handlebars and you have a bike that has a ride quality that is, in my experience, without equal. I have ridden a number of Raleigh Tourists and although they share the same geometry and parts I find that my '48 Rudge has an even nicer ride. That might have something to do with how the frames were built and the materials that were used. http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...illebooth1.jpg |
Originally Posted by Picchio Special
(Post 8837978)
Hey, that's Dr. Who's bike!
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OK, can someone explain to me about track bike geometry?
My understanding of trail and handling is that there is a tradeoff between high and low speeds: Low trail=low speed stability (quick handling because you can make fast directional adjustments), less stability at high speed (because of quick reaction time) Hi trail= low speed instability (wobbly handling at low speed), great high speed stability (rides like its on rails at speed) So which do you want for a track bike? I always assumed that track bikes (which I've never ridden) would have high trail for stability at speed, speed being something you hopefully are spending a lot of time with on the track (which is consistent with very low fork rake that I've observed on track bikes) However, maybe being nimble (low trail) is actually better for weaving in and out of your competitors. And somehow, despite the bike's being twitchy at speed, you don't lose control when you're hammering away. Which is it? |
Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 8837621)
2. Do not forget that the steel at the end where the blades get the most bend is thicker walled, by a large margin 2 to 3 times the upper wall thickness due to the drawing process, and after bending its work hardened.
http://os2.dhs.org/~john/taper-gauge.jpg This was generally recognized as a Good Idea, and by the 80s most other tubing manufacturers had implemented similar practices with their fork blades. |
The fork trail and rake have absolutely nothing to do with whether the fork is straight or curved. Straight forks are angled appropriately out from the fork crown, and so it makes no difference whatsoever.
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John you should try my RIGI with a 37.5 wheelbas and 77.5 head and 78.25 seat tube angles I am not sure if the current fork provides the correct 1.5" rake but it is a bit 'squirrely' at times
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Originally Posted by Longfemur
(Post 8838449)
The fork trail and rake have absolutely nothing to do with whether the fork is straight or curved. Straight forks are angled appropriately out from the fork crown, and so it makes no difference whatsoever.
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Originally Posted by Roll-Monroe-Co
(Post 8838359)
OK, can someone explain to me about track bike geometry?
My understanding of trail and handling is that there is a tradeoff between high and low speeds: Low trail=low speed stability (quick handling because you can make fast directional adjustments), less stability at high speed (because of quick reaction time) Hi trail= low speed instability (wobbly handling at low speed), great high speed stability (rides like its on rails at speed) So which do you want for a track bike? I always assumed that track bikes (which I've never ridden) would have high trail for stability at speed, speed being something you hopefully are spending a lot of time with on the track (which is consistent with very low fork rake that I've observed on track bikes) However, maybe being nimble (low trail) is actually better for weaving in and out of your competitors. And somehow, despite the bike's being twitchy at speed, you don't lose control when you're hammering away. Which is it? |
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