Going from a 58 to a 60?
 

I have 58cm road bike that I ride now, but it uses 27" wheels, and I kind of want a bike that uses 700c wheels and more modern brifters, etc. Would going from a 58 size frame to a 60 be too big a stretch?

I priced new Reynolds frames this weekend, and I think I am going to have to go vintage, and there is a Trek Elance frame made of 531 on ebay that is actually local, for $270 or best offer.

1. Is this a frame that is worth building up with modern equimpment?

2. Is $270 too high?

3. Is a Reynolds frame for a road bike really all that? I have a Schwinn Letour frame built out of 1020 that I have considered building "modern" as well. Will that be a good frame to use for my purposes?

$270. for that frame sounds a little high to me, unless its mint and you really want it. I usually pay 200. or less for used European Reynolds frames.

Reynolds makes a nice riding frame, my preference.

If you have to buy all the parts new, you may be better off buying a whole new bike.

Where can one find a bike made out of Reynolds steel for less than 2k? I'm open to a new bike, but I was told that I couldn't do it for under $2500.

I planned on buying used stuff for the most part, unless that is a bad idea.

Used is a great plan.

Buy a complete bike, it will be much cheaper in the long run, unless you just happen to have a box full of components waiting for the build.

Use one of the Craigs List search tools to cast a wider net.

$270 for that frame is high.

1020 is no comparison, and I would not put time into building it for personal use.

Well, Reynolds is not the only thing around. We got our 16 yo son a really sweet aluminum and carbon fibre Specialized for $875. on sale for his birthday. Not really my thing, I'm still riding 70s style bikes, but its pretty impressive if you want new components and modern technology...

Back in the 70s, people would buy a complete Windsor Pro for the Campagnolo components for about $400.- 425., switch them over to their "better" frame and sell the Windsor frame for 100. A Campagnolo group alone at the time was $500. or so.

That Elance is probably only 531 in the main tubes, with the stays and forks probably some cromoly or manganese alloy mix. Doesn't mean it's terrible, but it shouldn't be commanding the prices a full Reynolds frame would.

JunkYardBike beat me to the mention that the Elance is most likely main tube only 531. And $250 is too much for the frame only. I sold a complete, good condition, Elance 400 a few years ago local for $200 (sold quick, probably could have offered $250, but still it was a complete bike with shimano 105, etc). If I was going to spend $250 on a frameset it had best be full 531 in very good condition (such as my Gazelle A-Frame).

Oh, and having gone from a 63cm to a 60cm to a 58cm frame over the years, if the 58 fits you well, a 60 will "work", but you'll likely never be as happy with it as a properly fitting 58cm.

You are the one that inspired me to build a modern vintage bike.

So what are some other dutch brands, as we were talking about? What is my sleeper deal?

All good advice above. Patience will yield huge positive results.

Paying 4 digit dollars for a new 531 frame is an absurdity for me. There are magnificent full Reynolds frames and full bikes out there for <$500. Expand your search to include equivalent Columbus/Tange/Ishiwata, etc. tubing and your world really lights up.

Ebay and CL are filled daily with relative bargains on "C&V" frames of this ilk. And, on balance, it's still a buyers market.

Repeat: patience and research are key to well-spent money.

What are the equivalent steel materials?

So I know what to search for?

If there is already a thread, or this info somewhere, please feel free to redirect me.

Very roughly speaking:

Reynolds 531 = Columbus SL/SP = Tange 1 = Ishiwata 022/19

There's also True Temper, Vitus, Dedacciai(sp?), others......

Here's a recent thread on BF. Follow the internally noted links. Search "frame tubing" for more conversation.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...t=frame+tubing

Plus, Google "bike frame tubing"........typical:

http://www.smartcycles.com/frame_materials.htm

Dig in for enlightenment and savings.

There are others here on C&V who are far better schooled and able than I am. Stick around and learn.

Cheers and luck to you.

One more thing....post here in "ISO/WTB" for a frame/bike in your budget, size and material preference and you'll likely get a good result you can trust. This is a fabulous, decent and generous-hearted community of cycling enthusiasts who love to help and share.

A few dutch brands (some obviously harder than others to get your hands on unless you have source in the Netherlands)

Gazelle, Batavus, Jan De Reus, Jan Janssen, JOCO, Koga Miyata, Remy, RIH (and many others).


And indeed, consider frames made of high end materials from other brands such as Columbus SL, Tange Champion #1 and Prestige, Ishiwata 022/19. If you want to stay with a European brand, then Columbus and Reynolds will be the primary makers, Vitus on some high end French machines, but they are a whole other topic upon themselves.

The brand doesn't really matter - I want solid value for the money - I reckon I'm going to put some money in this bike, and I would like sto save where I can.

I don't know about Texas, but 531 or Columbus SL frames are not hard to come by around in the Northwest. A month ago I picked up a 531 frame for $80, 2 weeks about I picked up a Reynolds 853 frame for $100 included a headset and carbon fork, Last week I got another 531 frame for $30 included headset and BB. I sold a very nice Elance 400T with 531 main tube for $275. So yeah $270 for just the frame is a rip.

No 531 is not all that. 1020 is just a lower grade alloy steel, it is heavier than a frame made of 531 or SL or #1 or 022 tubing, due the thicker wall. I wouldn't spend money on a 1020 frame because is less desirable.

Dallas is a pretty busy bike area - at least it seems so.

If you find a 58 or 59 frame, let me know. I am certainly in for $80.

For parts you might checkout some of the UK sites.....I have no personal experience, but a number of people have noted that with the exchange rates you can get good deals on Campy groups.... I am sure someone will add usable details

Here are a few ad I found in your area:

Here is a Raleigh SuperCourse for $250. 531 straight gauge main tube
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bik/1164229899.html

This one is probably a Tange #2 for $200.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bik/1162422685.html

Here is a pretty good deal RB2 for $300
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/bik/1156335001.html

Let's hope that centurion is my size.

Now let us talk about these UK sites.

I rode a 58cm Dawes Atlantis for 5 years before I realised it was too small for me. I now know my maximum frame size is 66cm, c-to-t on the seat tube.

My LBS explained to me that the way to judge if a bike is too big for you is to stand astride it with your feet flat on the ground and lift the front up as far as you can, then check the gap under the front tyre. If you have less than a 5cm between the tyre and the ground the bike is too big for you.

In your case, if you find there is more than 5cm you'll know you can go larger.

I will take a look with that method. My LBS told me "your bike is obsolete".

If you can manage the size, I'd go for the RB-2. Maybe try to talk the seller down on the price a little, but if it's near mint, it's probably worth it. I think you'll notice a significant difference between your current frame and the RB-2. I had one, and I'm sorry I let it go. The component group is nothing special, but it's functional. If you become/are serious about riding, you'll definitely want to upgrade wheels, and probably the other components eventually. But why not just ride it as is and save to upgrade later?

Also, the seller's sizing doesn't seem consistent with the catalog. If it's a 62cm, it should have a 34"+ standover and a longer toptube. Either the seller has measured wrong somewhere or it's a 59cm (though that headtube does look too tall for a 59).

Is that bike worth upgrading? I want to go 10 speed (doable, that I know) and brifters.

I assume that it is comparable to Reynolds, even though it is listed as Cro-Mo?

That RB-2 would be an easy bike to modernize. I'd advise to keep all the original bits in case you want to go back to original spec, but shouldn't be anything standing in the way of making that solid rig with a modern setup.

The RB2 looks like it could be a nice deal. Just be sure to check carefully for what the seller is calling the "occasional transportation ding." One seller's ding is often another buyer's dent.