How do I restick decals that are lifting?
#1
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How do I restick decals that are lifting?
Hi all, new guy here. I searched and found a lot of info on removing, replacing, reproducing, etc. decals, but nothing for how to keep them stuck.
I pulled my old 1992 Bridgestone RB-T down from the garage hooks, and after hanging there for 15 years, some of the decals are starting to lift at the edges. Not too bad, but I want to fix them before they get worse or crack off. By '92, I don't know if these were vinyl stickers or the old waterslide decals. In order not to damage them, I haven't done anything yet.
Any suggestions on what to use to stick the edges down and protect them from further damage?
Thanks,
Steve
(BTW, long ago, in the back of Bicycling magazine, there used to be places that would make your name, team name, etc. as stickers to match the color of the decals. Anyone still do this? Thanks!)
I pulled my old 1992 Bridgestone RB-T down from the garage hooks, and after hanging there for 15 years, some of the decals are starting to lift at the edges. Not too bad, but I want to fix them before they get worse or crack off. By '92, I don't know if these were vinyl stickers or the old waterslide decals. In order not to damage them, I haven't done anything yet.
Any suggestions on what to use to stick the edges down and protect them from further damage?
Thanks,
Steve
(BTW, long ago, in the back of Bicycling magazine, there used to be places that would make your name, team name, etc. as stickers to match the color of the decals. Anyone still do this? Thanks!)
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Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
#2
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Nothing? Spray adhesive? Clear mylar on top? Bubble gum?
Thanks
Thanks
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Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
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I've used a glue stick on some, but it didn't work on my latest attempt. I've also used superglue, but I can't say I'm fond of it. Messy, or at least I am with the stuff.
And plenty of "your name here" decal makers. Just look on eBay or under Graphics/Signs in your yellow pages.
And plenty of "your name here" decal makers. Just look on eBay or under Graphics/Signs in your yellow pages.
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i've had moderate success w/a thin layer (wiped w/finger)of gorilla glue most hardware stores here(duluth) have it.the exess u can just rub off -a thin layer will dry pretty clear
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3M spray adhesive applied with a tiny brush has worked for me. I apply it to both surfaces and wait for it to get tacky per the instructions on the can.
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A thin, even layer of clear coat (not lacquer) preferably alkyd enamel, under the of the decal. Gently put back into place, after its dry, clear coat over the top.
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Thanks gang! A lot of good ideas here. I'll see what chemicals from the above options I have or can find, and give something a try. First I have to finish cleaning the bike, as I don't want to re-glue it down over any trapped dust.
Thanks again,
Steve
Thanks again,
Steve
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Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
Steve - Lorain County, Ohio
1992 Bridgestone RB-T
1993 Trek 970 SingleTrack
Xtracycle conversion on 1997 KHS Summit X
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Water-slide decals (like the old Reynolds 531 frame decals) always seemed to just fragment and flake off piece by tiny piece since they were never under a clear-coat prior to the 1980s.
Thinner old foil-backed transfers (such as the narrow World Champion seat tube bands at top and bottom of this photo) seem to be among the worst offenders when it comes to edges lifting up.
Light applications of Rubber Cement (typical aerosol spray adhesive) carefully applied with a small stiff artist paint brush seems to work fairly well under foil, and you can also easily remove any which has slopped over the edges, even (or perhaps especially) after it has dried to a rubbery consistency on the frame. Contact Cement is probably stronger and more permanent.
Thinner old foil-backed transfers (such as the narrow World Champion seat tube bands at top and bottom of this photo) seem to be among the worst offenders when it comes to edges lifting up.
Light applications of Rubber Cement (typical aerosol spray adhesive) carefully applied with a small stiff artist paint brush seems to work fairly well under foil, and you can also easily remove any which has slopped over the edges, even (or perhaps especially) after it has dried to a rubbery consistency on the frame. Contact Cement is probably stronger and more permanent.
Edges lifting? ... Ya mean they ain't supposed to?