PX10 resto refurbishment underway.....
06-14-09, 06:42 PM
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PX10 resto refurbishment underway.....
So I have a question....
There are some rust marks on the paint from the various cables guides and cables stops. The rust is on the surface of the paint versus having worked its way through the paint. Its minor and will be hidden once the cable guides/stops are back in place but thats not the point.
Any recommendations on how to remove it? I'm not submerging the frame in oxalic acid and its not feasible to dip the TT because its so long.
I was thinking of tightly wrapping a few paper towels or shop rags around the tubes, soaking them in oxalic acid and then covering with plastic.
Before you ask.....pics:
Brake caliper complete:
No rust inside the frame:
Ad Hoc pump:
There are some rust marks on the paint from the various cables guides and cables stops. The rust is on the surface of the paint versus having worked its way through the paint. Its minor and will be hidden once the cable guides/stops are back in place but thats not the point.
Any recommendations on how to remove it? I'm not submerging the frame in oxalic acid and its not feasible to dip the TT because its so long.
I was thinking of tightly wrapping a few paper towels or shop rags around the tubes, soaking them in oxalic acid and then covering with plastic.
Before you ask.....pics:
Brake caliper complete:
No rust inside the frame:
Ad Hoc pump:
06-14-09, 07:17 PM
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That second pic looks pretty bad...I wonder if maybe Wink would work on something like that. I've got a similar problem on the white part of a Centurion so I'll be the guinee pig and let you know.
06-14-09, 07:51 PM
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0000 wool and wd40?
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I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
06-14-09, 07:55 PM
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I just reapply oxalic acid with a paintbrush, but a soaked towel sounds good, too. It's kind of a pain to keep brush reapplying.
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06-14-09, 08:35 PM
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Don't get 4x0 wool near it! I've screuued the pooch with that stuff more than once (once should've been enough).
I'd try Never Dull. It's worked wonderfully in several situations in my exp.
I'd try Never Dull. It's worked wonderfully in several situations in my exp.
06-14-09, 08:37 PM
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Flitz would probably work too.
Brass wool might be better than steel, but I've has surprising success with 4-O wool.
Brass wool might be better than steel, but I've has surprising success with 4-O wool.
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I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
06-14-09, 08:53 PM
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I used to use this stuff many years ago when working on cars. Never tried it on a bike. It really never seems to get mentioned here with oxalic acid getting all the print. I wonder why that is? Is there some issue with Naval Jelly that makes it unsuitable?
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06-14-09, 09:20 PM
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That rust stain on the top tube is from the cable clamp. Simplex clamps are not stainless steel like Campagnolo. The chrome cracks from bending them and they rust. Rub it out with some white rubbing compound. New Simplex clamps can be found on eBay.
Your bridge wire rubs the seat tubes because your hanger is angled incorrectly.
The rust in the BB shell is insignificant. Use some kind of rust remover if it will make you feel better. Otherwise, it may rust out in about 200 years.
Your bridge wire rubs the seat tubes because your hanger is angled incorrectly.
The rust in the BB shell is insignificant. Use some kind of rust remover if it will make you feel better. Otherwise, it may rust out in about 200 years.
06-15-09, 06:15 AM
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I may try that. Something i learned a long time ago is that 0000 steel wool, if well lubricated, doesnt easilt scratch. As you can see the paint is still in good condition and I'd like to keep it that way
I have a bottle of it and it does work well but it hasnt done much to these marks. I can feel them with my fingernail so I know its a surface issue.
+1. I already have the full compliment of NOS Simplex cable clamps and guides.
That rust stain on the top tube is from the cable clamp. Simplex clamps are not stainless steel like Campagnolo. The chrome cracks from bending them and they rust. Rub it out with some white rubbing compound. New Simplex clamps can be found on eBay.
Your bridge wire rubs the seat tubes because your hanger is angled incorrectly.
The rust in the BB shell is insignificant. Use some kind of rust remover if it will make you feel better. Otherwise, it may rust out in about 200 years.
Your bridge wire rubs the seat tubes because your hanger is angled incorrectly.
The rust in the BB shell is insignificant. Use some kind of rust remover if it will make you feel better. Otherwise, it may rust out in about 200 years.
06-15-09, 06:31 AM
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use a mild scourer sponge/soap/or wd40 to remove the rust, and then polish up with car cutting polish to get a nice finish.
06-15-09, 12:07 PM
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As a guy who used to paint cars......
Rust is rust. You do need to stop it.
After you remove as much as you can try one of the rust convertors. These will stop the rust and leave a dark hard surface. It won't look as bad as the rust but it won't rust any further.
Apply it with a Q-tip or the like.
Rust is rust. You do need to stop it.
After you remove as much as you can try one of the rust convertors. These will stop the rust and leave a dark hard surface. It won't look as bad as the rust but it won't rust any further.
Apply it with a Q-tip or the like.
06-15-09, 12:16 PM
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As a guy who used to paint cars......
Rust is rust. You do need to stop it.
After you remove as much as you can try one of the rust convertors. These will stop the rust and leave a dark hard surface. It won't look as bad as the rust but it won't rust any further.
Apply it with a Q-tip or the like.
Rust is rust. You do need to stop it.
After you remove as much as you can try one of the rust convertors. These will stop the rust and leave a dark hard surface. It won't look as bad as the rust but it won't rust any further.
Apply it with a Q-tip or the like.
I let the Naval Jelly sit for a few hours and used a worn out white scrubby pad. The rust is gone and the paint isnt scratched. White pads are less abrasive than the greens.
rico, I agree but in this particular instance its rust tranfer from the clamps and guides versus penetration through the paint.
06-15-09, 12:25 PM
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I have some stuff that I use to remove rust and copper stains from enameled iron sinks. It's similar to Naval Jelly, but not quite the same. Sorry, I don't remember what it's called; but I'd try that.
Of course, I already have that stuff and you presumably don't. If you have oxalic acid, why not use waterproof tape and plastic sheeting to make a temporary basin right around the area you want to treat, and pour your oxalic acid into that? It doesn't have to hold more than a cup or so of liquid, right? I'm not sure exactly how I'd do it, but with a little ingenuity I'm sure you can do it.
Of course, I already have that stuff and you presumably don't. If you have oxalic acid, why not use waterproof tape and plastic sheeting to make a temporary basin right around the area you want to treat, and pour your oxalic acid into that? It doesn't have to hold more than a cup or so of liquid, right? I'm not sure exactly how I'd do it, but with a little ingenuity I'm sure you can do it.
Last edited by rhm; 06-15-09 at 12:30 PM.
06-15-09, 12:38 PM
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Rag in vinegar, cling-filmed round the rusty bit. Gotta be worth a go.
06-15-09, 01:03 PM
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I like to use TR3 resin glaze automotive polish for making bike paint look spectacular. It will likely remove the that little blob of rust. BTW if you are going to use cable clamps again that little brown rust will just appear again at some point. A little patina is good.
06-15-09, 01:16 PM
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Meguiars Scratch X for getting light bits out. Rub it vigorously. Alternately, 3M Fine Microfinishing Compound, but beware that you're removing a bit of the topcoat in the process.
-Kurt
-Kurt
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06-15-09, 01:17 PM
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I like to use TR3 resin glaze automotive polish for making bike paint look spectacular. It will likely remove the that little blob of rust. BTW if you are going to use cable clamps again that little brown rust will just appear again at some point. A little patina is good.
I have bodyshop grade 3M compound that works extremely well. I do agree the rust would reappear if I were using the old clamps but I'm not, I have NOS bits ready to go.
Regardless, the rust has been taken care of and now its time to brighten up the white and touch it up lugs. Final assmebly begins after that. Depending on my work schedule it should be done by the weekend.
06-15-09, 01:42 PM
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I doubt that any of your fancy products work any better than red rubbing compound followed by white and finished with any quality auto wax.
