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Trek 660 or 400

Old 06-27-09, 08:45 PM
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black kestrel
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Trek 660 or 400

Hey guys, I'm fairly new to road biking but not new to bikes. I'm trying to make a decision between two bikes that are 275 dollars apart. There is a trek 1984 400 in decent shape...slight wheel hop but I'd plan on replacing the wheels anyway, it has friction shifters which happen to be a preference of mine over index, it has a helicomatic freewheel which I plan on replacing with the wheel, a few chips in paint but nothing major. The guy wants 100. The 1989 660 which is supposed to be a racing road bike for its time is basically flawless and has shimano 105s all around, index shifters, and a few less chips. The geometry is very similar other than a few degrees here and a centimeter or two there. The 400 is made of mangaloy and the 660 is tru temper... I have no idea what the difference is and I'm wondering if it's worth spending 275 more dollars on the 660. Any opinions from you guys would be helpful. Thanks

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Old 06-27-09, 08:56 PM
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You can't go wrong with a Trek for $100, although it does depend on how you define decent.

Once you get up to the $375 price area, there are lots of possibilities, and that would be a high price around here for a DT shifting 105 bike.
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Old 06-27-09, 09:04 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I actually like the DT shifters it's the index I'm probably going to end up changing out. Also the 660 has brazed on shifters where as the 400 has some sort of latch on shifter that clamps on to the frame.

Both seem to be bullet proof, but the 660, from what I understand is the high performance version of treks vintage bikes.
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Old 06-27-09, 09:10 PM
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IF the 400 is in good shape that's a really good deal. I'd go for it.
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Old 06-27-09, 09:26 PM
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I just wonder if I'll end up spending that 275 on the 400 while getting new rims, freewheel, tires and tubes.
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Old 06-27-09, 10:19 PM
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I have a 1985 Reynolds tube 660 and love it. I did put a mix of 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace on it. Got the frame for a good price and spent too many $$ on the parts but it looks and rides great. 9 speed bar end shifters with a new 9 speed cassette.

I flipped a '88 660 a few months ago, blue w/magenta decals, also Reynolds and FWIW I prefer the earlier 660. Just feels better for some reason. I don't know about the '89 660.

I sold the '88 660 for $300 on CL, here in SoCal. It had all Shimano 600 parts. Don't know if that helps but it's my 2.
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Old 06-27-09, 10:45 PM
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If the 400 is blue with yellow tubing decals and a 9-digit serial number on the bottom bracket then the frame was built in Japan and accessorized in Wisconsin. That being said, you can find some very nice vintage wheelsets on both eBay and CL that would be appropriate for the 400 for well under $250. In my opinion the 89 660 was a decent bike--not as nice as the 88 660--but certainly not worth $375 even in exceptionally good condition IMHO.
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Old 06-27-09, 11:39 PM
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Hmmmm, I thought my 660 is a 1989 model, and it's got Ultegra all around rather than 105. Maybe it's actually a 1990 model, but I don't think so. Will have to check...
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Old 06-28-09, 12:04 AM
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I need to jump in here with a different perspective. My first real "racing" bike was a 1989 Trek 660 with full 7-speed Shimano 600 and deep Matrix rims. At the time, it was considered to be one sexy American bike, but with the advent of aluminum, was the last of it's kind. And I still have it! I believe this model was raced for a short period internationally. The ST/HT angles on the 1989 were pure Crit -- 73.5/73.5. It is a very quick little bike and mine weighs in stock at 22.5 lb. There is nothing wrong with the 400 and it is probably worth $100. However, even though the 660 may not be worth $375, it is probably worth $300 depending whether the cache' of a then higher end American crit bike is attractive to you.

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Old 06-28-09, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by black kestrel View Post
I just wonder if I'll end up spending that 275 on the 400 while getting new rims, freewheel, tires and tubes.
Sure, if you just take it to a shop, and tell them to fix it, I would not be surprised if you spent that kind of money. Good deals on bikes that need some work require the buyer to do the work himself and manage the parts spending, otherwise, a good deal becomes a bad deal pretty quickly.

So if you are not ready/capable to handle the 400 yourself, I would look for a complete bike in ready to ride condition, and pass on both of these bikes (the 660 is overpriced so I would pass on it).

I manage the expense of wheels and tires by buying "donor" bikes. I have yet to buy new wheels to complete a bike, but it could happen.

.
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Old 06-28-09, 06:27 AM
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Thanks guys...these opinions really helped. I'm a beginner mech. I was planning on learning on one of these vintage bikes. The 400 is a solid red color with all original components, and the 660 has been changed to 105's. It's the white model with red highlights. I'm definitely wanting a quick bike with fast steering...so that's what is making me consider the 660. I think I may go with the 660 even tho it is over priced...the guy is not willing to budge on it.
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Old 06-28-09, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RFC View Post
I need to jump in here with a different perspective. My first real "racing" bike was a 1989 Trek 660 with full 7-speed Shimano 600 and deep Matrix rims. At the time, it was considered to be one sexy American bike, but with the advent of aluminum, was the last of it's kind. And I still have it! I believe this model was raced for a short period internationally. The ST/HT angles on the 1989 were pure Crit -- 73.5/73.5. It is a very quick little bike and mine weighs in stock at 22.5 lb. There is nothing wrong with the 400 and it is probably worth $100. However, even though the 660 may not be worth $375, it is probably worth $300 depending whether the cache' of a then higher end American crit bike is attractive to you.


Very nice
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Old 06-28-09, 12:36 PM
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Trek 83o Antelope 18 sp MB

How would you date a Trek?

I have a Antelope 830 given to me & its too big so I am selling or maybe give it to a good friend but interested in how good the bike is.
I love the way it feels when you pick it up

so easy

Its chromoly & double butted

What would the age & quality be?

Trouble is its not shifting well so it needs adjustment & I don;t know where to begin.

It did shift once & its riding ok in 2 gears but the rest just seem to float without catching & chain is loose.

I looked up adjusting but this bike is different in the gear.

Oval tech on big cog

Is it bad?

Pics on craigslist...IS it worth more than $50?

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv...242777475.html



I had a guy refuse it last night
I'm hinking I really want to keep the big if its a good one n can be fixed wo too much $
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Old 06-28-09, 12:57 PM
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I would maybe pay $30 for that bike in my area.
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Old 06-28-09, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by black kestrel View Post
I just wonder if I'll end up spending that 275 on the 400 while getting new rims, freewheel, tires and tubes.
You might, but then you'll have new rims, freewheel, tires tubes.
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Old 06-28-09, 01:07 PM
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Antelope 830 is pretty low end, and mountain bikes do not have a lot of value to begin with. Go to the vintage Trek site, look up your serial number, and you will know exact age. In pristine, ready to ride condition, an 830 is worth $100 to $125. So in current condition, $50 is about right (I would not buy it for that, as sorting.out the shifting could put me right up to that $100 mark, depending on the problem).

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Old 06-28-09, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by black kestrel View Post
Thanks guys...these opinions really helped. I'm a beginner mech. I was planning on learning on one of these vintage bikes. The 400 is a solid red color with all original components, and the 660 has been changed to 105's. It's the white model with red highlights. I'm definitely wanting a quick bike with fast steering...so that's what is making me consider the 660. I think I may go with the 660 even tho it is over priced...the guy is not willing to budge on it.
I wouldn't pay over market unless the bike was thoroughly serviced and ride ready. There are a couple of rebuilders on this list, where if the bike was just what I was looking for, I would buy with confidence, as I know the bike is ready to go, properly and completely serviced, etc. I might even pay a little more than market, knowing that I was getting more than $200 worth of service work as part of the bargain. Call the shop of your choice and find out what they would charge, including parts, to thoroughly tune up, lube and service a 20 year old bike. $250 is the normal amount around here, if you want a complete service. I am not talking about some $40 cable adjustment.

Given the condition of the Trek 400, I would not give this kind of nod to the seller (as a top notch mechanic/seller would have both bikes in top condition, if for no other reason than to maximize his return). So I would not pay over market. Instead, I would keep looking.

Whether a seller is ready to budge or not does not matter to me, as I know there continue to be plenty of other bikes out there. I pass on more bikes than I buy. But thats why I am thrifty Bill....
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Old 06-28-09, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Antelope 830 is pretty low end, and mountain bikes do not have a lot of value to begin with. Go to the vintage Trek site, look up your serial number, and you will know exact age. In pristine, ready to ride condition, an 830 is worth $100 to $125. So in current condition, $50 is about right (I would not buy it for that, as sorting.out the shifting could put me right up to that $100 mark, depending on the problem).
Thanks, just was fishing...I guess I'll leave the $50 & have room for bargaining,...come down to $40 even $35 but I would like to get it working as I'd hate to sell a good working bike.
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Old 06-29-09, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by krems81 View Post
You might, but then you'll have new rims, freewheel, tires tubes.
yup, however I think the frame on the 660 has better geometry and is of slightly better quality. Well, I went to look at the 660 and it was flawless...almost like a new bike Looks exactly like this minus the bar tape and seat.
And it rides better than my Carbon Kestrel
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Old 06-29-09, 08:38 AM
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i bought a 400 last year for $50 in perfect condition. it is easily one of the most comfortable bikes i own, it has exage indexed shifting, and rides smooth as silk, i say go for it!
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Old 06-29-09, 10:11 AM
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black kestrel - Thanks for posting that catalog image. Brings back good memories for me. My 660 is the white/red combo shown there, and I remember sitting in my office back in 1980, staring at that page for seemingly weeks on end, trying to decide whether to splurge on that bike. I did, and then raced it for about 3 years. Still have it.
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Old 06-29-09, 11:26 AM
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The 1989 660 in white with red is a stunning bike.
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Old 06-29-09, 01:59 PM
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Use this for bargaining leverage.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:B:WNA:US:1123
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Old 06-29-09, 02:37 PM
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I have an '89 660. It originally was gray but I had it powdercoated blue (trying to approximate the "Race Blue" of earlier vintages). As others have said, it was a crit weapon: stiff and very quick handling. I imagine it embarrassed quite a few Italian bikes of the time.
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Old 06-29-09, 02:39 PM
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black kestrel,
I appreciate your interest in Treks. In 1984, I worked at a LBS that sold these bikes and they are well made machines. The 400 was a nice entry level road bike with good components and a nice frame made with straight-gauge steel tubes. Of course, the 600 series bikes were targeted to a more serious buyer. They were Reynolds 531 in '84 - I don't remember when Trek switched to TrueTemper for the 600 series - a much nicer, double-butted frame. The 660 model is the road racing frame and you will find it to be very responsive and a good hill climber.

Taking the money out of the consideration, the 660 is the bike I'd personally prefer between those two due to it's responsive design. (I'm also assuming that they were still made in USA in 1989.) If you want a more forgiving frame (and more cash left in your pocket), consider the 400 for a good all-around road bike.

Also, if you are still interested in Treks, but don't get either of these, look out for the 560 model, which offered nice components and a Reynolds 501 straight gauge frame. These were very nice bikes offered at a very reasonable price when new.

Best Wishes!
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