Installing a a bottle generator
 

Any advice on installing a Union 6V bottle generator with mounting bracket onto a 1973 Raleigh Sports? I have such a generator that I know for sure works. I would like to incorporate it into the following lighting system that I bought off ebay: a headlight (that fits onto the Raleigh mounting bracket) with two wires exiting, one of the wires going to the taillight and the other splitting and ending in two "C-shaped" copper connectors. The length of the two wires seems to indicate that the generator would have to go onto the front wheel. I suspect that this lighting system was part of a Sturmey-Archer dynohub in some past life. Also, is there some way to test if the lights work before I begin the installation? (I really don't know much about electricity.)

Terry

Elegantly connecting all the parts is going to be an exercise in problem solving, and you'll have to figure most of it out for yourself, but I can tell you a few things. There's a whole forum for electronics etc, you know... you will find more information there. Anyway:

Dynohubs typically have two wires, whereas bottle generators have only one for each lamp. Your headlight and tail light both have to have a wire to your bottle generator, and be grounded to the frame so it can function as the second wire. The lamps, and the bottle generator, will all usually have a special screw with a sharp point that digs through the paint (:eek:) just to make sure the connection is good. If your headlight has two wires, you can attach one of them to the frame or fork somehow; the front brake pivot bolt is a good spot for that. That will make the connection you need.

To test your lamps, a 1.5 volt battery should be strong enough to get the bulb to light up with no danger of hurting yourself.

You can use wire to connect the grounds instead of using that tapping screw.....there's absoultely no need to ruin a perfectly good paint job with those silly little screws.

A follow-up question (or two):
 

All of the light bulbs work. The lighting system is DEFINITELY from a Sturmey-Archer dynohub. As you probably know, the two wires that exit the headlight are actually double wires. I can see where the wire going into the rear tail lamp splits as it enters the light case. Does that change anything you previously said about hooking this system up to the bottle generator?

I actually have a working S-A dynohub. I've neglected to put it on my bicycle because it requires a 32 spoke wheel and my wheels are 36 spokes. I'm beginning to wonder if it might be easier to get the proper wheel off ebay, assuming that I could I still use the 36 spoke rear wheel, but what about the spokes for the new front wheel? They obviously have to be a lot shorter than on a "regular" wheel. Are such spoke (from the 70's) still available, or do I visit my local bicycle shop?

Terry

Spokes in virtually all lengths are available though some lengths may need to be special ordered. A bike shop that does much wheel building should have a reasonably full range of sizes.

Current SON, SRAM, SA and Shimano dynamo hubs are similar in flange size to the old SA dynamo hubs I believe so spokes in the correct lengths should not be that hard to find. IIRC Peter White Cycles has a full range of spoke lengths available and builds wheels using the SON dynamo hub.

I have the Shimano Alfine dynamo hub on one bike and really like it. Amazing the light output with a modern LED headlight such as the B&M Lumotec IQ Cyo that I am using even at modest speeds.

Spokes are available in a huge variety of lengths. I just had a Sturmey Archer AG hub built into a 20" wheel and have a couple of 700c wheels being built up with an FG hub. Both are dyno hubs and there is on problem getting spokes for them.

Aaron:)

Thanks to all who replied. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Terry