How much should I put into this bike?
 

I have an old 1984(?) Univega Gran Turismo that needs a lot of work.

It needs a new seat , handlebar tape, a front wheel (I have only the rim and hub, which may not be reusable) and maybe a back wheel too (don't know if it's stable), the brakes need adjustment and the cables are rusty, everything needs to be cleaned and lubed up, and the pedals are too small for my feet. I think the gears and other components are in good shape, though the shifters are down-tube and not really to my liking. Also, the paint's all chipped and worn, but I don't really care about that.

It has Dia-Compe brakes, Sugino s, Suntour wheels and derailleurs. These are good components, right?

I worry that all these renovations could get pretty costly, depending on how much I want to spend on the new things I'll be getting. I'd like to do the work myself to save on bike shop fees, but I lack the tools or the know-how.

At what point does the cost of fixing the bike make it a better deal to just buy new? I'd like to use it as an all-year commuter and for touring, so I wouldn't feel comfortable just slapping a new front wheel on and riding 'as is'.

If it turns out that I can't reasonably get the bike back into shape, for whatever reason, what can I do with it? I'd to let it go to waste.

By the way, I've noticed, when I tried out the shifters, that it was very easy for me to push the front derailleur to the point where, after shifting the chain, it pushes against it and rubs on it. Likewise, the rear derailleur can be made so that it's not completely straight on, with just a little extra pressure on the shifter lever. It seems like this system requires alot of precision and fiddling with, something I haven't had to worry about with my current index shifters.

Is the situation I'm describing bad for the chain? Is there a conversion I can do to fix this problem and make shifting less weird and obnoxious? How much would that cost?

Thanks,
John

Can you do some of this work yourself? Sounds like you are not too sure about whether components are good or not. Perhaps you should bring it to someone who could give you an estimate to repair.

Sounds like a nice bike that needs a bit of work. http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=186913

I wouldn't mind owning one.

Nothing sounds overly scarey.

The friction shifters just take some getting used to. Back in the old days that's about all there was for deraileured bikes.

Saddles are such a personal preference item that it might be a good thing the bike needs a new one so you don't have to justify getting rid of the old one.

Wheels are sort of a wear item, get a new one or find a decent used one and scratch that item off you list.

Assuming that you're north of the equator I'd recommend just getting the bike ridable and put some miles on it for the rest of the summer. By the time fall gets here you should have the bike and your list sorted out.

Or just find a local seller selling a ready to ride bike.

Oh, and did you post pics of the bike yet**********

There are tons of how-to videos on youtube, if you have some spare time it's good to learn the craft of fixing bikes yourself. If you plan riding bikes, you'll save a ton of money on shop fees, and eventually afford to buy Ti or steel bike.

Sounds like a keeper. MAKE SURE it's the right size for you before you pour too much money in.

Some shops are better than others, especially when it comes to vintage stuff. Get recommendations from locals. The right backstreet shop or garage mechanic might do the best job for 'reasonable' money. A big expensive store does not ensure getting good work I've found.

Adjust the limit screws on the derailleurs so that you can't inadvertently shift the chain off the gearsets.

When that is done -- yes, sometimes have to fiddle with the levers to center the derailleurs. Not a big deal. You hear something clanking, you adjust it. If you do this, there's no excessive wear issue. Chain maintenance (regular clean & lube) and not cross-chaining (not using big-big or small-small ring combinations) are what avoids undue drivetrain wear.

With a few lucky used parts finds and a little work, I made mine into a nice commuter style fendered bike. It rides like a beach cruiser, and moves like a road bike. Best of both worlds IMHO. The bars have been changed back to drops since the pic. My hands kept wanting a different position than these bars offered.,,,,BD

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/DSCN4023.jpg

Try to find another bike for the parts you need, like front wheel, seat, etc. If you can do that for say, $25.00, it could be cost effective. The bad news is you could run into the possibility of liking the second bike and will need a third one, etc., etc.

+1, Been there done that.

Bikes that need a lot of work and parts are best suited for people that are ready and able to do the work themselves. If you pay someone to do the work, you will rapidly exceed the value of the bike.

+1 Donor bikes are the solution to getting a lot of parts for not much money. I usually find donors in the $5 to $25 range.

The key to any project bike is the condition of the frame. It the paint is bad, if the frame has dents and dings, if there is serious rust, at that point, the bike has become a donor. Unless it is a very collectable high end bike, dealing with those issues can cost more than it is worth. Minor rust can be taken care of if you are handy.

I'm sure I could help you out there...depending on the size of course. :)

Looking for wheels on craigslist, I found: some guy selling a bunch of random wheels from his basement for 10 bucks each (sketchy?), a set of wheels off a Stumpjumper (wouldn't fit?) and three tubular wheels, each for 40 bucks.

As far as donor bikes go, I found a bunch of old Schwinn ten-speeds and the like, often for under 100 dollars (there was a World Sport going for 10 dollars, and a Continental for 100). Would these be good sources for wheels? As a side note, when I'm looking for used wheels, how can I tell the difference between an aluminum rim and a steel rim?

Also, how can I be sure any rear wheel will be compatible with the casette from my Univega? It has six cogs. Is it difficult to transfer them over? Do you need an "exact fit" or whatever?

I can get an 80's Schwinn World Tourist for 50 bucks. It comes with 27x1.25 wheels, fenders, and a Brooks saddle. A good find?

Thanks,
John

Use a magnet to tell steel from aluminum, if thay are rusty thay are steel. Grab the world sport for $10 thay came with aloy wheels and some good mid level parts.

That world tourist with the books on it. I would look at that like its a $50 brooks with a free bike attached and the weels sould be useable.

Changing the cassette on the back wheel isnt hard but it does take a special tool. I go to the local bike shop when I need one removed. Cost $1. New one just screws on.