Campagnolo SR Fixed Cup Removal on italian frame
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Campagnolo SR Fixed Cup Removal on italian frame
Hello you all.
Since you have been very patient and competent with my few questions so far, i dare asking a rather stupid one. I'm in a state of confusion.
I read everything sheldonbrownish about bottom bracket removal i could. I gathered the following:
The BB on my italian (!) colnago frame is standard threaded, meaning the fixed cup has been screwed in very very tightly so that the pedaling movement doesn't screw it out again. Sounds logic to me.
But on my darn frame the fixed cup is on the driveside, where - as my logic allows me to conclude - the pedaling screws the fixed cup of an italian-threaded BB in tighter and tighter with every turn.
Is this assumption correct? Do i have to screw out my drive-side-mounted Fixed cup counterclockwise (as would be reasonable) or counterclockwise (for some devilishly illogical reason)?
Anyway thanks for any help!
-David
Since you have been very patient and competent with my few questions so far, i dare asking a rather stupid one. I'm in a state of confusion.
I read everything sheldonbrownish about bottom bracket removal i could. I gathered the following:
The BB on my italian (!) colnago frame is standard threaded, meaning the fixed cup has been screwed in very very tightly so that the pedaling movement doesn't screw it out again. Sounds logic to me.
But on my darn frame the fixed cup is on the driveside, where - as my logic allows me to conclude - the pedaling screws the fixed cup of an italian-threaded BB in tighter and tighter with every turn.
Is this assumption correct? Do i have to screw out my drive-side-mounted Fixed cup counterclockwise (as would be reasonable) or counterclockwise (for some devilishly illogical reason)?
Anyway thanks for any help!
-David
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Italian threads are the same on both sides and both standard, right-hand threads.
More specifically about precession in a BB - from the drive-side, the cranks, and the spindle, go clockwise. The bearings rotate counter-clockwise relative to the spindle, which wants to drag the cup counter-clockwise as well. Right-hand threads unscrew this way, so English BB's use left-hand threads here. The French and Italians, who apparently decided that having concentric threads in a BB is more important that a silly cup unthreading, and didn't feel the need to build a special tool to do it, went ahead and threaded the whole shell at once, with one tap, which is right-handed.
More specifically about precession in a BB - from the drive-side, the cranks, and the spindle, go clockwise. The bearings rotate counter-clockwise relative to the spindle, which wants to drag the cup counter-clockwise as well. Right-hand threads unscrew this way, so English BB's use left-hand threads here. The French and Italians, who apparently decided that having concentric threads in a BB is more important that a silly cup unthreading, and didn't feel the need to build a special tool to do it, went ahead and threaded the whole shell at once, with one tap, which is right-handed.
Last edited by stausty; 07-24-09 at 03:26 PM.
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They can be a bugger to remove. I usually end up using the Sheldon bolt method to firmly attach the tool to the fixed cup, then use a jeebus bar on the tool. Leverage is your friend.
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jeebus bar? sounds great...
Leverage is what i need, that's true. My wrenches are no match for this task.
[edit] where do i get one of those fixedcup-wrench-in-place-keeper-thingys?
Leverage is what i need, that's true. My wrenches are no match for this task.
[edit] where do i get one of those fixedcup-wrench-in-place-keeper-thingys?
Last edited by streik; 07-24-09 at 04:49 PM.
#6
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Read Sheldon Brown on Precession. It works opposite to what you would think. The correct way to thread a BB, so far as precession is concerned, is to have the fixed cup (almost always on the drive side) be left-hand threaded. As discussed above, the French and Italians have demurred, for reasons of manufacturing convenience, one supposes (but maybe it's just nationalistic contrariness).
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The washers and bolt will hold the fixed cup tool in place. Dont not tighten down the bolt all the way. Leave a tiny touch of play in the axle, apply leverage to the tool and once the cup moves, stop and loosen the crank bolt.
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I use this now:
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I use a bench vise firmly attached to my work bench for fixed cup removal. Flat edges of cup are held in the vise jaws. Frame provides the leverage. No special tools required.
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I remove it so i can let the frame be repainted... one side of it's been in the sun for a year or more and so the purple paint turned yellow, where there even still is paint.
Thanks to everyone for the inputs, great help. Gives me the courage to struggle on
Thanks to everyone for the inputs, great help. Gives me the courage to struggle on
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I had one fixed cup that probably hadn't been removed in oh, 20 years. Sheldon's do it
yourself removal tool only succeeded in scoring the face of the cup. Finally took it to LBS
who used a VAR tool and a 3 foot cheater bar on the end of that. When it finally broke free
sounded like a gunshot and I though Geez, there goes that frame, fortunately that wasn't true.
gr23932 what tool is that? Is that they Cyclus version?
marty
yourself removal tool only succeeded in scoring the face of the cup. Finally took it to LBS
who used a VAR tool and a 3 foot cheater bar on the end of that. When it finally broke free
sounded like a gunshot and I though Geez, there goes that frame, fortunately that wasn't true.
gr23932 what tool is that? Is that they Cyclus version?
marty
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I had one fixed cup that probably hadn't been removed in oh, 20 years. Sheldon's do it
yourself removal tool only succeeded in scoring the face of the cup. Finally took it to LBS
who used a VAR tool and a 3 foot cheater bar on the end of that. When it finally broke free
sounded like a gunshot and I though Geez, there goes that frame, fortunately that wasn't true.
gr23932 what tool is that? Is that they Cyclus version?
marty
yourself removal tool only succeeded in scoring the face of the cup. Finally took it to LBS
who used a VAR tool and a 3 foot cheater bar on the end of that. When it finally broke free
sounded like a gunshot and I though Geez, there goes that frame, fortunately that wasn't true.
gr23932 what tool is that? Is that they Cyclus version?
marty
Marty, I had the same results with Sheldon's tip, but then figured I use it, modified, to hold the tool in place.
I used a 4 foot length of pipe, ant came off nicely.
Now I go right for that method, especially with Italian cups.
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Is this one of the aluminum cups? If so, it isn't coming out without a fight.
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Park Tool HHP-2 headset-press and fixed-cup tool can be used to hold a wrench (of some form) into place while removing fixed-cups.
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Marty thats similar to the old VAR fixed cup removal tool. SB's method is a take-off of that tool.
My method is a take-off off of the Stein tool. Back in my shop days I had every available fixed cup removal tool at my disposal. The Stein tool was my goto weapon of choice.
My method is a take-off off of the Stein tool. Back in my shop days I had every available fixed cup removal tool at my disposal. The Stein tool was my goto weapon of choice.
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It was actually custom made in Belgium for my LBS. They gave it to me without handles and had some welded here in MD.
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Cantinflas? (Mario Moreno)
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The correct way to thread a BB, so far as precession is concerned, is to have the fixed cup (almost always on the drive side) be left-hand threaded. As discussed above, the French and Italians have demurred, for reasons of manufacturing convenience, one supposes (but maybe it's just nationalistic contrariness).
One cool way to install French and Italian bottom brackets is with a pair of adjustable cups and lockrings, to provide a modicum of chainline adjustment and to simplify full disassembly. I have had ordinary fixed cups on the two Bianchis and the two French-threaded Peugeots I have owned, and I used to have problems until I started using LocTite.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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I use this one, with the official cheater pipe:
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Tal vez?? Es un travalenguas que aprendi desde plebe.
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