several questions associated with a new wheelset
#1
Part-time epistemologist
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several questions associated with a new wheelset
Hi,
I have a Vent Noir with first generation Dura Ace hubs laced to 27" rims that look similar to Mavic MA2s. The wheels appear to be in excellent mechanical shape; although definitely well used. Although suspect that everyone here will already know this, the hubs are freewheels and the rear drop outs at 120 mm.
I'm thinking that a second set of wheels for everyday use would be a good idea since the wheels are probably ~30 years old and I'd like to keep as much of the original bike in working order. My thought is to spread the rear drop outs to 123mm such that fitting both the original 120mm wheel and a new 126mm wheel could be done smoothly. It appears that the rear derailer has enough lateral movement to accommodate the slightly wider cassette in the rear.
Assuming that the above is not a wacky idea, the issue of building a 126mm OLD rear wheel is raised. I assume that if one looks hard enough, one can find an appropriate freehub -- might have to convert from ultraglide to hyperglide, but that is straightforward. But would it be worthwhile to convert a 130mm freehub to 126mm?
In an old thread people suggested removing a 4mm spacer on the nondrive side. But that would create more dish. Could one instead swap the 8/9/10 speed freehub body with a 7 speed and replace the axle to lose the 4mm? Would a modern Shimano hub have any advantages over an older 126mm hub?
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
I have a Vent Noir with first generation Dura Ace hubs laced to 27" rims that look similar to Mavic MA2s. The wheels appear to be in excellent mechanical shape; although definitely well used. Although suspect that everyone here will already know this, the hubs are freewheels and the rear drop outs at 120 mm.
I'm thinking that a second set of wheels for everyday use would be a good idea since the wheels are probably ~30 years old and I'd like to keep as much of the original bike in working order. My thought is to spread the rear drop outs to 123mm such that fitting both the original 120mm wheel and a new 126mm wheel could be done smoothly. It appears that the rear derailer has enough lateral movement to accommodate the slightly wider cassette in the rear.
Assuming that the above is not a wacky idea, the issue of building a 126mm OLD rear wheel is raised. I assume that if one looks hard enough, one can find an appropriate freehub -- might have to convert from ultraglide to hyperglide, but that is straightforward. But would it be worthwhile to convert a 130mm freehub to 126mm?
In an old thread people suggested removing a 4mm spacer on the nondrive side. But that would create more dish. Could one instead swap the 8/9/10 speed freehub body with a 7 speed and replace the axle to lose the 4mm? Would a modern Shimano hub have any advantages over an older 126mm hub?
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
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#2
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Hello does this bike have index shifting? if not I would look for some nice freewheel hubs and you can use any 6/7spd freewheel on this. btw how old is your current chain/freewheel? if your chain has alot of stretch and wore the cogs on the freewheel you may need 2 freewheels and chain. I think you most difficult part might be finding 27" rims you like at a price you wish to spend. there is another post on 27" wheels in the mechanic section and it looks like 27" are slim pickens (not the actor *giggle*)
I think removing a 4mm spacer from a cassette hub not only causes a dishing issue but you would have to cut that 4mm off the axle as well.
as for having the frame spread you only talking a few MM os difference and I think there should be enough flex to allow hte 126 wheel to be slipped into the dropouts.
OH is this an Austro Daimler? I just looked one up on line nice looking bike https://www.company7.com/bosendorfer/ADbicycle.html
I think removing a 4mm spacer from a cassette hub not only causes a dishing issue but you would have to cut that 4mm off the axle as well.
as for having the frame spread you only talking a few MM os difference and I think there should be enough flex to allow hte 126 wheel to be slipped into the dropouts.
OH is this an Austro Daimler? I just looked one up on line nice looking bike https://www.company7.com/bosendorfer/ADbicycle.html
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Last edited by Bianchigirll; 08-17-09 at 10:22 AM. Reason: add text/ question for orginal poster
#3
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I think I have an older Shimano Dura-Ace Freehub based wheel similar to what you're looking for ... It's tubular though.
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Just find a frame builder to coldset it to 130. It won't hurt anything. I found it easier to shift more cogs with a friction setup. If you move the lever in small amounts it will drop to the gear you want. Some people find it finicky or annoying but I've always found it to be easy.
Peter White Cycles is selling Mavic Open Sport rims laced to Shimano 105 hubs for 300$ a pair. They are older 7 speed hubs.
Peter White Cycles is selling Mavic Open Sport rims laced to Shimano 105 hubs for 300$ a pair. They are older 7 speed hubs.
#5
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The bike uses friction shifting. It is an AD Vent Noir. It can accommodate 700c wheels so no point, IMO, in sticking with 27" other than the minor inconvenience of having to adjust the brakes when switching wheels.
Thanks for the offer ... but by my taste: tubular = yuck!
Hey ... I'll take a peek at Peter White's site. Thanks! BTW, how would respacing affect using the old wheels?
Thanks for the offer ... but by my taste: tubular = yuck!
Hey ... I'll take a peek at Peter White's site. Thanks! BTW, how would respacing affect using the old wheels?
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it would not affect them any differently than usiong the wider wheels. you just need to kind of squeeze everything together when you mount the old ones.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#7
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My first inclination is that it would do weirdo things to the chainline and -- mind you, I have zero experience with this -- it doesn't sound like such a great idea to clamp down the dropout a cm with a the quick release.
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#8
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At least with a 126mm wheel in a 130mm dropout, the response in the Bike Mechanics forums agrees with the sentiments below.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...=126+wheel+130
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...=126+wheel+130
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A narrative on bicycle driving.
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