Sealed Hubs - maintenance
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Sealed Hubs - maintenance
I am new to cycling and I've been riding a 1984 Miyata 1000 to work everyday for the last two months. I've been reading more about bicycle maintenance and I've learned that bikes need their hubs and bottom brackets overhauled every once in awhile.
Seeing as I got my bike two months ago and i have no idea the history or miles on it before then, do I need to overhaul the bottom bracket and hubs? The hubs are suntour sealed with qr. I've read in some places that sealed hubs do not need to be overhauled. Does this apply to my hubs?
Thanks for all your help!
Seeing as I got my bike two months ago and i have no idea the history or miles on it before then, do I need to overhaul the bottom bracket and hubs? The hubs are suntour sealed with qr. I've read in some places that sealed hubs do not need to be overhauled. Does this apply to my hubs?
Thanks for all your help!
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No, it does not. Dis-assemble them like any other hub with the exception of pulling out the bearings. Use a very small device to 'flip' out the bearing seal, thoroughly clean the bearings, regrease, press the seal back on and re-assemble.
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For sealed bearing hubs, make sure that you do not end up applying side loads to the bearing when you install the wheel back on the bike with the skewers. I always try to give the bearings a very very small amount of side play allowance between the bearing cartriges and the axle lock nuts so that the compressive clamping force that the skewer applies does not transfer on to the sealed bearings as side loads that can damage them.
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
Chombi
84 Peugeot PSV
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Depends on the sealed hub. I have sealed hubs that use cartridge bearing (that I still re-grease) and sealed hub that have loose ball bearings.
Take them apart and have look.
Take them apart and have look.
#6
Dropped
They look like this, with an aluminum locknut secured against the cartridge:
#7
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There is a difference between "sealed bearing" and "cartridge bearing" hubs.
The former may have fancier seal technology than traditional ball + cone hubs (o-rings, or molded rubber), but they still have balls that are loose and can be replaced (the part that wears out fastest). Next to wear is cones, typically, and then the "fixed" races built into the hubs. These bearings are adjusted like the traditional type, with cones threaded onto the axle, and locknuts that hold the adjustment.
Cartridge bearings may be serviceable to some extent, as miamijim recommends; but the individual parts are not replaceable. While they may, in fact, have the best technical seals, when the bearing goes, the whole cartridge (race, cone and balls) has to be replaced. These also differ from cone + ball bearings in that the adjustment is mainly built into the cartridge assembly, and only (somewhat sophisticated) side-loading is "adjustable."
The terminology is somewhat vague -- as JunkYardBike's example shows: cartridge-bearing hubs that were marketed as "sealed bearing."
The former may have fancier seal technology than traditional ball + cone hubs (o-rings, or molded rubber), but they still have balls that are loose and can be replaced (the part that wears out fastest). Next to wear is cones, typically, and then the "fixed" races built into the hubs. These bearings are adjusted like the traditional type, with cones threaded onto the axle, and locknuts that hold the adjustment.
Cartridge bearings may be serviceable to some extent, as miamijim recommends; but the individual parts are not replaceable. While they may, in fact, have the best technical seals, when the bearing goes, the whole cartridge (race, cone and balls) has to be replaced. These also differ from cone + ball bearings in that the adjustment is mainly built into the cartridge assembly, and only (somewhat sophisticated) side-loading is "adjustable."
The terminology is somewhat vague -- as JunkYardBike's example shows: cartridge-bearing hubs that were marketed as "sealed bearing."
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+1 My '83 Centurion Pro Tour came with Suntour hubs labeled 'Sealed Bearing Hub' and they are a cartridge bearing design. Just be careful if you decide to have an LBS change the cartridge they don't crack the hub body with the wrong size cartridge.
They look like this, with an aluminum locknut secured against the cartridge:
They look like this, with an aluminum locknut secured against the cartridge:
#9
Dropped
If they are indeed the cartridge hubs, and they feel smooth, leave them alone. I attempted the DIY cartridge removal and it wasn't pretty. Also, if the aluminum locknuts are seized, they could be easily damaged without the proper tool.
See here: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/240487-questions-about-suntour-cartridge-bearing-hubs.html
Maybe you can see the silver alloy locknut more clearly in this photo:
Last edited by JunkYardBike; 09-01-09 at 08:08 AM.
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yes my hubs have those 4 notches ... I'll take a picture of them when I get home just to make sure we're talking about the same thing.