Dura-Ace cranks with large pedal hole
#1
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Dura-Ace cranks with large pedal hole
Do these have any value? The crank that accepts the large single bearing Dura-Ace pedal. I think they were introduced in the late 70's. Are they collectible or just an odd cast-off.
#2
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#5
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At one time you could get adapters to use ordinary pedals with the Dyna-drive arms:

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these came on my univega. I had to lower my seat half an inch because the way the pedals are designed, your foot sits below the (pedals) axle centerline, where usually it was on top of the axle. weird.
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SO sweet. we just overhauled a 1981 kuwahara built apolo with the complete 1981 dura-ace group and I mean complete and original including stem and seatpost, original benotto tape too and the hubs are beautiful.. araya tubulars of course. The customer came in to upgrade it (his wifes bike) but we talked him out of it and he decided we should overhaul it and clean it up so he could hang it on his office wall... we all thought it a good decision.
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Caterham, I think I have a NOS set of DA aX pedals I'll likely never use. If you're interested in them shoot me a PM.
J
J
my wife's 81 Andre Bertin C70 came with Dura Ace EX DD crankset & pedals. she's still riding them and wouldn't give them up for anything. it's true that the saddle height needs to be set 3/8" lower than a typical quill pedal but the lowered position gives a great feeling of stability & directness to the power stroke. as the family mechanic, my only issue is that after coming on 30 years, the nylon labyrnth seals for the pedal bearing have now become somewhat stiff and on occasion produce a tiny bit of drag ,so that the pedals sometimes hesitate to hang correctly. when that happens, pedal entry can be a tad more futzy than the way they were when new and spun completely free.it's only a minor annoyance tho and she's adapted by simply taking a look at the pedal first before starting off and it always seems to free up with just a toe touch to the pedal's quill. the next time i repack the pedals, i may just leave out one of the seals and see what happens. she never rides her baby in the rain anymore.






#9
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Koga (Miyata) even had DynaDrive sizing frames. Below my 58DD. The length of a 58 bike, but a couple centimeters lower.

My lbs had adapters made for use with conventional pedals >>

My lbs had adapters made for use with conventional pedals >>


#10
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Was there any purpose for the larger hole? I'm guessing Alexi Grewal might have won with different
pedals. And they only made them for 3 years.
pedals. And they only made them for 3 years.
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Some spares...
I have three or four sets of these pedals and one set of cranks that I am aware of in The Old Shed. Never had much use for them so far. Can't even say that I like the appearance all that much.
The pedal is pretty comfortable to use even with softer soled shoes, thanks to the large foot contact area.
The pedal is pretty comfortable to use even with softer soled shoes, thanks to the large foot contact area.
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However, to achieve this position for the interface you cannot have a long axle running the width of the pedal. The axle has to be located inboard of the pedal cage and therefore all the load has to be carried by bearings inboard of the cage. The best way to carry the increased load was to increase the number of bearings. Of course, this could still be achieved using a standard axle thread, but meant the bearings would be between the crank arm and cage, increasing the overall pedal width, which places the feet farther apart (Q-factor) and decreases pedaling efficiency. Shimano's solution to maintain Q-factor and carry the load was to use an oversize axle that allowed for more bearings and carried the bearings within the plane of the crankarm.
The Dyna Drive crankarms themselves were the stiffest crankset available at the time and combined with the matching pedals are the most under rated system of the era. Dyna-Drive made its debut on the 1980 Dura-Ace EX group and was subsequently added to Dura-Ace AX in 1981.
The original concept for the lowered shoe/pedal interface came from the Hi-E pedal of the late 1970s which used a standard axle thread.
#13
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Thanks for the info guys. False alarm though. I was looking at a bike on ebay and thought it looked like the Dura-Ace crank, but it was just the angle at which the photo was taken.
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That's one of the prettier bikes I've seen in a while.
my wife's 81 Andre Bertin C70 came with Dura Ace EX DD crankset & pedals. she's still riding them and wouldn't give them up for anything. it's true that the saddle height needs to be set 3/8" lower than a typical quill pedal but the lowered position gives a great feeling of stability & directness to the power stroke. as the family mechanic, my only issue is that after coming on 30 years, the nylon labyrnth seals for the pedal bearing have now become somewhat stiff and on occasion produce a tiny bit of drag ,so that the pedals sometimes hesitate to hang correctly. when that happens, pedal entry can be a tad more futzy than the way they were when new and spun completely free.it's only a minor annoyance tho and she's adapted by simply taking a look at the pedal first before starting off and it always seems to free up with just a toe touch to the pedal's quill. the next time i repack the pedals, i may just leave out one of the seals and see what happens. she never rides her baby in the rain anymore.






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With all of todays fascination and red herring with stiffness and efficiency (and ugly/silly/overbuilt looking parts) you gotta wonder why this system hasn't had life breathed back into it yet.
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Dura Ace 600 Ax chainset
The Dura Ace 600 ax chain set was slightly longer than 170mm (it was 171.5mm), The larger bearing on the pedals (600ax) was offset to pedal axis thus giving approx. 4-5 mm extra length plus. It was only produced for a 3-4 year period Very early 1980's. it is more collectable now than ever and with pedal adaptors you can use modern clip in
pedals.
I may have a used one for sale as I am about to strip my 1982 time trial /road bike it is absolutely mint condition as i cleaned after every ride and probably spent more time using solvol autosol polishing it than using it, I am coming up to 75 and owned it from new but too fast for my brain responses so sadly time for new home if any one wants more info or details on this or the groupset please phone me, Glyn 01773 760236 (land line) based in Derbyshire
pedals.
I may have a used one for sale as I am about to strip my 1982 time trial /road bike it is absolutely mint condition as i cleaned after every ride and probably spent more time using solvol autosol polishing it than using it, I am coming up to 75 and owned it from new but too fast for my brain responses so sadly time for new home if any one wants more info or details on this or the groupset please phone me, Glyn 01773 760236 (land line) based in Derbyshire
#18
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I have a couple of the cranks, one racing (DA) and one touring (Deore), plus a couple of pairs of pedals, one pair NOS with clips and straps still in the box. Used to have several adaptors but gave them to guys who would actually use the cranks.
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Old thread but, the Shogun Tourer I am doing a build on soon has the original Deore Touring set-up with Dyna-Drive.
I have read the main reason it did not take off was being able to change pedals and that some of the bearings had wear issue. It sounds as though the system is advantageous but would require multiple manufacturers to be on board so a wide variety of pedals and cranks would be available.
Btw, still looking for a Mavic Module 3-36h 27 1/4". My rear has a couple cracks around spokes. May have to build as is for now.
I have read the main reason it did not take off was being able to change pedals and that some of the bearings had wear issue. It sounds as though the system is advantageous but would require multiple manufacturers to be on board so a wide variety of pedals and cranks would be available.
Btw, still looking for a Mavic Module 3-36h 27 1/4". My rear has a couple cracks around spokes. May have to build as is for now.

Last edited by Bikerider007; 02-01-17 at 09:49 AM.
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I have read the main reason it did not take off was being able to change pedals and that some of the bearings had wear issue. It sounds as though the system is advantageous but would require multiple manufacturers to be on board so a wide variety of pedals and cranks would be available.
There is a record of manufacturers who altered a facet of the industry with a "new standard" for certain elements (Shimano and the 130mm BCD for road rings; Sugino with the 110/74mm for touring) when everything that went before was one thing and everything after was the new, but DD honestly never looked like it would be one of them.
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...there was a guy on e-bay machining and selling the adapters from somewhere in Russia or eastern Europe as recently as last year. Might still be on there somewhere. I bought a pair, and they took a while to get here, but worked out fine.
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...There is a record of manufacturers who altered a facet of the industry with a "new standard" for certain elements (Shimano and the 130mm BCD for road rings; Sugino with the 110/74mm for touring) when everything that went before was one thing and everything after was the new, but DD honestly never looked like it would be one of them.
Dyna-Drive reminds me a lot of SunTour's high normal front derailleurs, which worked great, but the lever motion was opposite to a standard front derailleur. A lot of people didn't like that. But anybody who had never ridden a derailleur equipped bicycle and started out on a Spirt or Compe-V had no issues with them. It was the traditionalists who killed both high normal and Dyna-Drive. Both were good concepts that worked well.
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I also have his e-mail address somewhere if you need to contact him. I have no idea if he's still making / selling those adapters. I chatted with him about them a few years ago but never ended up buying any.
#24
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I've heard good things about the Dyna-drive from friends of the old racers here in Boulder too.
I have 2 of the adapters if anyone needs them. Unfortunately, they are both for the same side (left I think)
I have 2 of the adapters if anyone needs them. Unfortunately, they are both for the same side (left I think)

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This is another one of those "improvements" with no supporting data.
The claim that it is more efficient has me scratching my head. One would think you could rig up a motorized "test dummy" and compare output power at the wheel, publish the data, and patent it.
The claim that it is more efficient has me scratching my head. One would think you could rig up a motorized "test dummy" and compare output power at the wheel, publish the data, and patent it.
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