ClydesterD

I need a wheelset for a 1985 Raleigh Team USA. Hub spacing is 100mm front, 126mm rear. I can buy a wheelset that's "right" for the bike except for the front spacing of 96mm.

Will I have a problem with compatibilty in the front, or can I squeeze the extra 2mm per side without a problem? I'm thinking I can, but want to confirm it before I buy the wheels. Thanks in advance for your help.

CV-6 

It is no big deal. So what kind of French hub is it?

ClydesterD

Thanks. It's a Sunshine hub, not sure what model (if there's more than one) or year.

Grand Bois

Did you think the hub was French because it is 96mm? Is there something I don't know about French components?

JohnDThompson 

Just put a washer under each locknut to make up the difference.

ClydesterD

I may know why Lynn thought that. Doing some research before posting my question I went to Sheldon Brown's site because I remembered reading about hub spacing there before---including how much one can stray from perfection and still be okay. He implies that the 96mm spacing was predominantly French, but doesn't say they were exclusively French. You can read what I read here.

I'm new to this C&V game, and the compatibility issues are enough to make my hair hurt.

ClydesterD

Thanks, John. I considered that, but when a solution seems that simple there's often some other aspect I'm overlooking. I solve that one, which unearths another, and soon I'm deep within a cascade of sequential problems. That's why I wanted to check here, where others have already learned these lessons---oftentimes the hard way.

This 4mm difference doesn't seem to be a problem, so I'll go ahead with the wheels. Thanks to everyone who answered.

dbakl

I'd space the locknuts to fit the forks, but hey... that's just me. When I built my single speed, it took alot a goofin to fit those BMX hubs to a road frame.

Ronsonic 

Didn't Raleigh have something like 95, 96mm as the "standard" for their front hubs on all the upright 3-speeds and roadsters.

CV-6 

It has been my experience that a 96mm spacing is French. Saw it on several French bicycles and their hubs. Probably not enough to draw a valid conclusion.

miamijim

Spacing the hub may not leave enough axle engagement in the fork ends. I'd give the fork a little squeeze.

ClydesterD

You mean squeeze out the extra 2mm per side as I'm tightening down the quick release, right? I want to confirm that you're not suggesting I respace the front.

miamijim

No. I mean squeeze it the fork down to 96mm to match the hub. Cold set it.

ClydesterD

Got it. I'd rather buy another wheelset than do that, but I appreciate the suggestion.

Jimbo1983

This is an old thread, but I have the same situation and was wondering, is cold setting necessary or is it fine to just clamp it up and be done with? I can't space the nuts any wider as the axle isn't long enough. If I was cold-setting the fork, what's the best was to insure alignment? There's the string method for the rear dropouts but don't think that will work for this.

jimmuller 

Just clamp it down and be done with it. Or you could get another axle for no more than $15 or less and just repack the bearings.

Jimbo1983

Sweet I did wonder if axles could be replaced, in fact I may have a hub that isn't being used...thanks!

Michael Angelo 

Why not get another axle and just build/space the hub for 100mm spacing? It's a lot cheaper than another wheelset.

Jimbo1983

Yeah I looked on loose screws and they have axles, as well as some other stuff I can combine shipping on. I did find a video on youtube showing how to close a fork, but would rather respace the hub with a new axle. Thanks for all the advice! Slowly but surely my bike shall come together...

jimmuller 

Just re-space the hub with a new axle. It's a simple job and worth doing if you've never done anything like that before. The only thing you have to "get right" and the whole point of the exercise is that the bearing cones be positioned so that you have the same amount of axle exposed on each side. Otherwise one side will be too short just like your current axle, and the other side will stick out so far that the QR skewer doesn't grip the dropout. Measure the two lengths and position one side accordingly, then insert into the hub and adjust the other side. If it doesn't come out right, just repeat.

Jimbo1983

Loosescrews has an M9 x 110mm through-axle for $8 so I'll go for it, I've repacked hubs before so shouldn't have any trouble unless the threading on the original axle is some crazy french type. I checked that the lock-nuts will wind onto another front axle that I have, so hopefully it'll all work out.

I wish there was some way I could repay the advice from these forums, as I have learned a lot just from reading the archives and asking questions here! Unfortunately I have to ask another question, about clamp-on shift levers on the down-tube. The down-tube of my frame has a little rectangle of metal brazed onto it where the shifters will go, am I supposed to clamp the shifters onto this or above this? (I'm building up a frame that had minimum parts with it and I have been piecing together a set, so don't know how it was set-up before.)

Grand Bois

The clamp goes above the stop.

Jimbo1983

Thanks