krems81 

I build custom bikes for sale in Chicago, and I try to do things that interest me. I'm also trying to think of how I can make builds that are relevant for the coming winter. My idea is to start building city winter bike conversions on old mtbs.

I'm looking for ideas on how to set these up. I imagine a single chainring and only rear shifting on some of them, just to simplify. Still deciding how to set up the bars and what to do about wheels. I'm curious to see photos of what some of you have done with steel frame MTBs. I understand they can make good loaded tourers. I imagine they'd also make great city commuters in the winter

wahoonc

I don't have pictures of mine, but I used the "butterfly" trekking bars, full fenders, as well as front and rear racks. Mine is set up as an expedition tour bike, but with a decent set of studded tires it would serve well as a winter commuter. FWIW I live in NC where 3" of snow is out of the ordinary. (BTW we had 7" in one storm last winter)

I think a more upright position is more important on snow and ice. Suspension is going to be a no-no.

When I was using it as a commuter I had full fenders, slicks, front and rear racks, and kept the straight bars on it. I rode it in many a snow storm in that form (swapping knobbies for the slicks), but I think the trekking bars would be an improvement.

Aaron

oldster

I will watch this thread, as I have a Raleigh Elkhorn from 84/5 or so...Its real strange with the "bullhorn" handlebars, and a real long top tube,and wheelbase,but its a nice steel frame and ok gearing,,,I am considering trading the stem /bars off of the bike wife uses on the trainer, and trying to ride it ...
Otherwise , gonna take the big ring (48),off and putting it place of the 52 on my road bike..so I can see if I want to put a 48/38 28 crankset on it..Then its probably a gift to someone who is starting out out biking, or the parts pile..

treebound 

Basically what I've ended up with this converted and still in process MTB was a handlebar swap, stem road shifters pulled off a parts bike because the old shifters were shot, a set of fenders, road style higher pressure 26" tires. Basic, simple, more upright position for visibility, more efficient tires for road use, a budget set of battery lights would be a nice feature, and a bell and mirror. If you want to go the extra mile for the higher budget buyers throw on a seat bag with a multitool and spare tube and combo pump/co2 kit. A rack or basket or removable bag setup would be nice as well. And throw in a decent lock option. Probably overkill so scale it back to what you think would work.

I think I swapped the stem once after I took these pics, don't have current pics and the bike is currently buried in the garage behind other projects. If I get time I'll pull it out for a fresh pic or two since I'm about to remove the 1.25" Serfas Drifters tires and swap on some 1.5" touring type tires (just wanted something a little sturdier).

The fenders on the bike as it currently sits will clear MTB tires, studded Nokian Hakka-something tires, and smooth slicks smaller than Fat Freddies (or whatever the name of the ballooners is).

Hope this helps a little.

jgedwa

I think its a great idea. Here is my snow bike. The frame is a very ordinary GT Outpost (although I do love GT's). Cheap fenders, studded tires, and fixed gear with loooow gearing. All the parts (but the tires) were just things I had laying around. None of it noteworthty. This set up is nothing special, so I am not sure how inspiring it will be. But, it is very serviceable as a snow bike. I love it, in fact.

jim

Reynolds 

I'm just starting to gather parts for my commuter project:

-Steel '90s MTB frame with horizontal dropouts, rigid fork, eyelets F & R
-Full fenders
-Rear rack
-Geared hub
-Generator lighting
-1.5 slicks
-Chainguard
I'd like a full chaincase, but they are hard to get.

Ablaut

Last winter I just commuted on a road bike with 25s slicks, but only when there was fresh snow. This was still managable. Otherwise I'd lug out an old trek mtb, but I was chugging along with knobs and thicker tires. I never really found a compromise because I was always afraid of black ice when riding so close to traffic.

As for bar set up, I've noticed that most people ride with fingers on the breaks during the winter, just in case. I'd cross drops off the list. Flats, bullhorns, staches, etc...

I'm interested in what you'll end up doing!

krems81 

I find that narrower tires do best in city winters. They cut right through the slush and snow, down to the road. So I'll probably be looking for the narrowest I can find in 26". Wider ones surf on top of the snow, and so you're not contacting the road, and even if you have tread you have less control.

Definitely no drops, maybe some mustaches or risers. Shifters will be a question. I'll probably do rear shifting only on these bikes, since that's really all you need. Thumb shifters probably. Anyone recommend a good source for something index/friction capable?

I have one conversion I did that's sitting around waiting for a different handlebar setup. I'll post that up pretty soon. It's been around for a year while I've done other things. Maybe wood fenders and that type of thing will give style points and make people more inclined to ride them. Everyone wants to be on a road frame these days, but the stopping power of cantilever brakes comes in handy.

rugerben

I am in the midst of doing a conversion on my 1993 GT Talera. It's a tange steel frame.

it's getting drop bars, bar-end shifters, touring rack, Kool-stop Salmon pads, fenders, 1.25" tires, etc... It'll be done Monday night or Tuesday. i hope I can get some pics by then. I'll start a new thread just to show it off. So keep your eyes open for it.

NormanF

650B. But a conversion works better with disc brakes. With Grand Bois Hetre tires, an MTB rolls wicked!

bobdell

It's aluminum and there is no snow here, but here's my early 90's Cannondale.

wrk101

I turned two Trek 950s into city bikes, with narrow tires. I put trekking bars on one of them (my wife prefers flat bars). To me, the higher end steel Trek MTBs are among the best value out there today. One cost me $75, the other about $40. With a simple change of tires, I used it as a trail touring bike as well.






My 950 in light trail touring form (I & M canal towpath in Illinois).




You might also want to consider a hybrid. This is a 1991 Giant Nutra, to me it is somewhat unusual for a hybrid as it has front rack braze ons. I would consider it a pretty versatile bike. Cantilever brakes, plenty of room for fenders, etc. It has more of a road triple crankset, with larger rings than you find on a MTB, so the gearing is probably more useful around Chicago.

illwafer

good idea on the drivetrain.

i don't think you can beat the simple straight bar for handling in winter.

so, all i think you need to do is find a standard set of tires and fenders that you can outfit your bikes. then, put on a rack and you are good to go. i wouldnt try to complicate things too much.

bikemeister

Dang - have you been spying on me? My current build is VERY similar. Hadn't considered a full chain case, though. Hmmm - might just have to bend one up out of sheet stainless.

rugerben

Why are you guys saying that straight bar is better than drop bars for winter?
I find that I have some incredible control over my bikes with drops.

Is it that having the hands wider apart gives more control?
If were the case though, I feel like CX riders would all have straight bars rather than drops.

ilikebikes

Heres mine, it's a 1998 K-2 ProFlex, I use it for cruising around the city. (not in the winter though! )

krems81 

Ha. I don't necessarily think they're better. In fact, I think straight bars can be kind of uncomfortable. I like to have a few different hand positions available, and drops offer options. However, I build bikes for folks who want both functionality and style, and I think drops might look out of place on most mtb's. I'll definitely be trying drops to see if they don't look totally wrong. Bullhorns might be the way to go on some of these, because they offer the same kind of forward curve drops have, just without the drop part.

rodar y rodar

There`s a quite exensive thread on this over in "Touring". Maybe you`ll get some ideas there.
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/334033-i-would-love-see-photos-your-mtb-conversion.html
Also, I`d say to keep gloves and mittens in mind when you start thinking shifters.

balindamood

1985 Schwinn Sierra used for loaded touring, loaded shopping, and general putzing about:



The shifters/derailuers are the original Shimano Light Action (probably the best ever made IMHO), as are the rims, hubs, and brakes. The cranks are original, though I changed the middle ring to half-step gearing. The bars are rather rare Nitto Bullmoose with extra rize (I have only ever seen one of these...now I look at it every week), but this picture does not show the bar ends/extensions. The fenders are not original, and the racks are Jandd.

It has 70-degree angles, 46cm chainstays, straight 4130 tubes.

If I had one bike, this is the one I would keep. Super comfy, suprizingly quick (I have taken on group road ride and kept up with the fast pack), off road os no problem. I hauled three cords of wood several miles (many trips) with it. Taken it camping. Toured 1500 miles, it does everything.

The only chages I would make are ore bottle bosses, and I would like one size larger.

xB_Nutt

Not steel, but the old Cannondale MTBs make great road conversions.

DVC45

This will be my winter commuter. Drop bars to be added soon (only if I can find a chromed 21.1 stem).

mercator

My winter ride from last season worked pretty well.
Its a 90's era mtb frame someone was giving away.
I prefer the drop bars as it gets pretty windy on the ride home.

Poguemahone

Eighties Shogun Mountain Bike, Lugged, Tange MTB double butted tubing. Bike found rusting in local dealer's back yard, he gave it to me (unsalable, everyone wants fixies). Front wheel from trash. Bags from yard sale (2$ total). Fenders, bars, rear rack from parts bin. V-brakes with Tektro levers (most expensive thing on bike). Saddle from same dealer; at that point leather saddles unsalable (in the last couple years, they've become valuable on the local scene).

What you have here is a great all weather beater/utility bike.

Glynis27

I got this '97 Mesa in '97 for my 15th bday. 2 years ago I broke the RST fork and the drivetrain was shot. I replaced the cranks with Cro-mo DH cranks, bars went to Origin8 Space Bars ($11), rigid fork ($9), switched to SS or 2x2 and added fenders. In the summer it is geared 36x14 and in the winter it is in 2x2 mode, 32x14/26x18. If I get to a road with deep snow, I kick the chain over to an easier gear and the tensioner is able to make up the difference. I adore this bike.

RatedZeroHero

I either missed it or didn't see it...

can the front sprockets be replaced with road gearing, either a double or a triple?

the addition speed would be great IMHO!!!