Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

10-speeds on a 126mm hub SUCCESS

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

10-speeds on a 126mm hub SUCCESS

Old 01-01-10, 12:13 PM
  #26  
miamijim
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
miamijim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,979
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 354 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by cwhale27 View Post
Do current hubs not use the same width in spacers, and therefore cannot be pared down in the same way?
Yes and no. If the hub in question as the proper spacing bewteen the hub flange and low gear cog and the spacers can be moved around or removed/replaced it can be used. For instance, looking at Shimano schematics it appears a FH-7700 hub may be adaptable but a FH-7800 hub is NOT.
miamijim is offline  
Old 01-01-10, 01:17 PM
  #27  
RobbieTunes 
Half drunk? Finish!
 
RobbieTunes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Very Southern Indiana
Posts: 26,899
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 373 Post(s)
Liked 719 Times in 465 Posts
I don't cold set, but I've run across a few frames in the past where, if I knew I could do this, I'd have set up 2x10 in a heartbeat on some beautiful old hubs, dropped in a 105 RD/FD/Crank set, a pair of DA 2x10 DT shifters, and maintained an elegant bike with modern setup. I'm glad to know it can be done.
__________________
Robbie ♪♫♪...☻
I have unfinished business.

RobbieTunes is offline  
Old 01-01-10, 01:42 PM
  #28  
TejanoTrackie 
Veteran Racer
 
TejanoTrackie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Posts: 11,155

Bikes: 29 frames + 72 wheels

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 689 Post(s)
Liked 15 Times in 8 Posts
Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
You could split the difference with a 128mm frame but if you were to do that why bother spacing the hub down? Honestly, if I had a 128mm frame I'd leave the 130mm hub as is.
Sorry, I guess I didn't state my idea clearly. What I meant was that I would keep my 126mm frame intact at 126mm (not cold set it) and spread the dropouts (elastically-no permanent deformation) whenever I inserted or removed the 128mm OLD hub. The effort required to spread a frame 2mm is a lot less than 4mm. It seems to me that cutting the hub spacing down 2mm is also easier than 4mm. No need to source rare 0.5mm spacers. I have a similar situation with a 120mm spaced frame and a 122mm OLD hub which carries a regularly spaced 6-speed freewheel. I didn't mean to diminish what you have done, which is extremely clever and well thought out.
TejanoTrackie is offline  
Old 01-01-10, 03:46 PM
  #29  
miamijim
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
miamijim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,979
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 354 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie View Post
Sorry, I guess I didn't state my idea clearly. What I meant was that I would keep my 126mm frame intact at 126mm (not cold set it) and spread the dropouts (elastically-no permanent deformation) whenever I inserted or removed the 128mm OLD hub.
Sure but where are going to remove the 2 mm of spacing from on a 130mm hub? The problem is that there isnt a single 1 mm spacer on either side. If you remove 2mm from the left side and redish you may have too much dish. There are work arounds, you could interchange lock nuts etc....
miamijim is offline  
Old 01-01-10, 09:11 PM
  #30  
zacster
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn NY
Posts: 6,544
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 101 Times in 79 Posts
I didn't read the details, but I've been running a 10sp/130 wheel on a 126 bike for 5 years now. I haven't had a single problem. I didn't do anything but mount the wheel on the frame as is. It works flawlessly and is dead quiet. I'm using friction shifters and a Nuovo Record derailleur. I didn't really give it any thought, other than it was a tight fit the first time I tried it.
zacster is offline  
Old 01-02-10, 06:50 AM
  #31  
miamijim
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
miamijim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 13,979
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 354 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 19 Times in 16 Posts
Originally Posted by zacster View Post
I didn't read the details, but I've been running a 10sp/130 wheel on a 126 bike for 5 years now. I haven't had a single problem. I didn't do anything but mount the wheel on the frame as is. It works flawlessly and is dead quiet. I'm using friction shifters and a Nuovo Record derailleur. I didn't really give it any thought, other than it was a tight fit the first time I tried it.
This is what most people do and it works but unseen forces are acting on your axles and dropout faces. If its a steel frame you might want to have the dropouts and faces cold set which negates the forces and will extend dropout and axle life.

Again, the sole purpose of this thread was to see if 10s could be run on a 126mm without compromising wheeldish. There are a small number of frames that shouldnt be cold set or flexed open. I was looking for a solution for thoose who have 126mm frames.

If your frame can be cold set of flexed open this thread isnt for you.
miamijim is offline  
Old 03-11-12, 04:10 PM
  #32  
Geo_08
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 155

Bikes: 1990 Diamondback Master TG, 2015 All City macho man disc, 2015 Trek X-caliber 7, 1989 concorde pdm team edition

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a set of wh-r540 8 speed, which despite the mixed reviews I love. I just reveived an older Klein with 126mm spacing, Is it possible to redish this wheel or should I stick with the more traditional hubs? I also have a set of rolf vector Comps , which if i can find the bearings to rebuild might be an option as well.

There is a 3.7 mm axel spacer on the right side and a 5.5mm axel spacer on the left, if that helps at all.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830728611.pdf

Last edited by Geo_08; 03-11-12 at 04:38 PM.
Geo_08 is offline  
Old 05-09-14, 06:22 AM
  #33  
bikemore 
Too many bikes
 
bikemore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 1,375
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just wanted to bump this thread because it is a pretty cool idea. Still need to read Jim's description to get the details right. Dish seems to be the deal.
__________________
Looking for 24T or 21T Dura Ace uniglide cogs FW. Can trade NOS 12T.
bikemore is offline  
Old 02-13-20, 06:52 PM
  #34  
gmhoover
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Got my hands on a 84 Specialized Expedition that wasn't cold set and the previous owner jammed a 135OLD Tourney hub into. Once removed it springs back to 127-128. Wondering what 126 hub to look for?
gmhoover is offline  
Old 02-13-20, 11:54 PM
  #35  
dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
 
dddd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 6,959

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pederson racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Mentioned: 93 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 694 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 125 Times in 99 Posts
Originally Posted by gmhoover View Post
Got my hands on a 84 Specialized Expedition that wasn't cold set and the previous owner jammed a 135OLD Tourney hub into. Once removed it springs back to 127-128. Wondering what 126 hub to look for?
Although this is a zombie thread, I haven't read it before. I do a lot of rear hub re-spacings for all kinds of reasons so this is good stuff to read. Usually i am wanting to use a freewheel with added # of speeds, then also preserving axle strength by use of shortest-possible driveside axle overhang.
Sometimes modern chain allows me to leave little more than 3mm between the dropout and the face of the small cog, and I have a box full of locknuts with different thicknesses for fine-tuning axle width.

7s, 126mm freehubs usually can be instantly made into 124mm width by removing a 1mm washer from each end of the axle assembly (with no re-dish).

gmhoover, what are you trying to accomplish with your Expedition in terms of the rear hub?
dddd is offline  
Old 02-14-20, 09:18 AM
  #36  
gmhoover
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ideally, I would like to get a 126 or 130 OLD hub thats 9 spd. I was looking for older Ultegra because I wanted to go with a 9spd ultegra hyperglide casette. I have never built a wheel before but planned on removing the spokes and re-using the rim.I am a complete newb and just learning about axle spacing. The bike was a craigslist find, and I couldnt get it to shift properly with any amount of limit and b screw tuning. Then I realized the dropout didn't look straight and the derailleur hanger was at an angle.
gmhoover is offline  
Old 02-14-20, 10:29 AM
  #37  
dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
 
dddd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 6,959

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pederson racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Mentioned: 93 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 694 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 125 Times in 99 Posts
Originally Posted by gmhoover View Post
Ideally, I would like to get a 126 or 130 OLD hub thats 9 spd. I was looking for older Ultegra because I wanted to go with a 9spd ultegra hyperglide casette. I have never built a wheel before but planned on removing the spokes and re-using the rim.I am a complete newb and just learning about axle spacing. The bike was a craigslist find, and I couldnt get it to shift properly with any amount of limit and b screw tuning. Then I realized the dropout didn't look straight and the derailleur hanger was at an angle.
You might want to start hunting for a good 8s freehub with 36 spoke holes, most out there will tend to be 32 holes with the better Shimano 9s hubs anyway.

You will have to be prepared to test the effect on chain clearance after perhaps removing 1mm from each end of the axle assembly's stack. 128mm in a 126mm frame is unnoticeable in terms of installing the wheel unless perhaps some old, square-edged locknuts are used. Different hubs also have different locknut thicknesses that you can experiment with when no thin washer is present that could be conveniently removed.
Beginning with 8s hubs, the clearance between the chain and the frame tightened up to where I don't think that more than 1mm can ever be removed from the drive-side, so good luck with narrowing the drive-side axle stack.
dddd is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shuru421
Classic & Vintage
4
04-09-19 04:21 PM
bananabacon
Bicycle Mechanics
17
07-24-15 08:14 AM
melicha8
Classic & Vintage
6
06-11-12 10:50 AM
peterw_diy
Bicycle Mechanics
16
06-13-11 04:14 PM
Oregon Southpaw
Classic & Vintage
5
12-05-10 08:43 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.