Wheel building help for vintage bike.
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Wheel building help for vintage bike.
Not sure if this is the right forum, but figure there might be someone out there who's done what I want to.
I've got an old touring bike that presently runs a 700c, 7 speed derailieur back wheel. I want to swap it out for a 700c, 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub, so I can fit an old style chaincase and turn it into a town cruiser of the raleigh variety (but with alloy rims for better braking - 700c to fit the frame, obviously). I've got the hub, 36 hole. I can get the rim, but I'm not sure about spoke length and axle diameter.
I've rebuilt a wheel or two in my time, but never from scratch. I seem to remember reading something about issues with flanges on SA hubs being narrower, and needing spacing for the elbow of the spokes.
Also, anyone know spoke-lengths for correct offset, and which is the best lacing pattern to use?
Many thanks
I've got an old touring bike that presently runs a 700c, 7 speed derailieur back wheel. I want to swap it out for a 700c, 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub, so I can fit an old style chaincase and turn it into a town cruiser of the raleigh variety (but with alloy rims for better braking - 700c to fit the frame, obviously). I've got the hub, 36 hole. I can get the rim, but I'm not sure about spoke length and axle diameter.
I've rebuilt a wheel or two in my time, but never from scratch. I seem to remember reading something about issues with flanges on SA hubs being narrower, and needing spacing for the elbow of the spokes.
Also, anyone know spoke-lengths for correct offset, and which is the best lacing pattern to use?
Many thanks
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Try here:
https://lenni.info/edd/
https://lenni.info/edd/
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Spocalc has S-A 3-speed hubs in its database, as well as lots of rims (though I'd still measure the ERD of the rim to be sure). Traditional Raleigh Sports rear wheels are laced 4x, but if you're not a heavyweight, 3x will be fine. FWIW, I've never used washers to reinforce the flange as is recommended, and I have yet to break a spoke or flange on one of those wheels, but I haven't necessarily subjected them to lots of stress or weight (I'm 160 lbs).
Neal
Neal
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I'm planning and getting ready to do exactly what you're proposing right now as well. I pretty much have my plan formulated, I just need to order the supplies and get to work.
What I'm going to use.
Sun Cr18 700C rims
~290mm stainless steel spokes
Some people have told me to get shorter spokes than the calculator says, but I'm not sure how much shorter to get.
What I'm going to use.
Sun Cr18 700C rims
~290mm stainless steel spokes
Some people have told me to get shorter spokes than the calculator says, but I'm not sure how much shorter to get.
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don't go more than 1 size less than spocalc recommends. If Spocalc says you need 289mm, go with a 288mm rather than a 290mm (because they don't sell 289mm)
If the spoke is too long and you bottom it out you've got nowhere left to go.
If the spoke is too long and you bottom it out you've got nowhere left to go.
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Spocalc has S-A 3-speed hubs in its database, as well as lots of rims (though I'd still measure the ERD of the rim to be sure). Traditional Raleigh Sports rear wheels are laced 4x, but if you're not a heavyweight, 3x will be fine. FWIW, I've never used washers to reinforce the flange as is recommended, and I have yet to break a spoke or flange on one of those wheels, but I haven't necessarily subjected them to lots of stress or weight (I'm 160 lbs).
Neal
Neal
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Hello sounds like a fun project. you frame does have horisontal dropouts yes?
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Neal