![]() |
Originally Posted by mtnbke
(Post 9980710)
Mavic headsets were considered the 'best' before Chris King became popular. Even now a Mavic 1" headset isn't cheap. A good NOS Mavic 1" threaded headset will run you more than buying a new Chris King (and be worth it).
Avoid the Mavic headsets that required a special Mavic tool. If it looks like the headset has vertical 'stripes' move on (unless you're lucky enough to have the proprietary Mavic tool). |
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 9982165)
I have a Stronglight 1" threaded tapered roller bearing headset (1st two photos), not sure of the precise model. I found it very hard to adjust it precisely to turn lightly without any for and aft fork play. I think the problem is that whereas ball bearings offer some adjustment compliance, cylindrical bearings do not. Also, I believe that precise facing of the frame head tube is critical with these headsets as compared to conventional ball bearings. My favorite old school headset is a Specialized (last photo), which is a copy of the Campy Nuovo Record, but also has o-ring seals.
|
Originally Posted by ottothecow
(Post 9983420)
Just go with the Tange Levin
I was looking for a headset for my recent project and was talking to a guy who builds some pretty high end bikes. I was lamenting that I couldn't find something better with a JIS crown race (I could find some 105 headsets but only in 26.4). To my surprise he told me just to go with the tange passage. I upgraded to the Levin (~$20 instead of ~$10) because in all the pictures, it looked like it had a better chrome job with about the same internals. The thing seems pretty smooth and I've got no complaints although a needle bearing would be cool in the long run. |
Originally Posted by Chombi
(Post 9993408)
Oooo!, that's good, what's bad is, I just lost out on a nice NOS Delta that just finished it's auction at eBay, but I think it sold for more than I personally was willing to pay for anyway, so Idon't feel too bad about losing out on it. Still could have been a fantastic headset for my restoration project.:thumb:
BTW, there's a big seller from the UK that still have a few NOS Stronglight A9s for sale at ebay right now for, IMO, a super fantastic price. Bought one already tonight for a spare or maybe my restoration project. So I still get to experience another of Stronglight's best ever headsets ( I already have an A9 on my PSV, and it has performed flawlessly since I bought the bike in 1984. I remember only adjusting it once after it bedded in and It's still smooth and with zero bearing play. Chombi 84 Peugeot PSV 85(?) Vitus Carbone 7 Plus |
Originally Posted by illwafer
(Post 9994306)
am i missing something? this is the $10 tange passage:
http://www.cyclebasket.com/smsimg/56/540zzzpassage.jpg |
Originally Posted by Chombi
(Post 9991745)
I wish they had seals at the top nut/stem seam on threaded headsets.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-8422422...2076_249244322 |
Originally Posted by Road Fan
(Post 9994798)
Good for you - give us the name!!!
A few more A9s from other sellers popped up since I last looked.........maybe A9s aren't that rare afterall?? Like I said before, it was used in thousands of Peugeots, Treks, Gitanes and a few Schwinn models in the 80s. Chombi 84 Peugeot PSV 85(?) Vitus Carbone 7 Plus |
I don't mean to steal this post, but thought it might be a good place to pose this question. What causes brinnelling? ( Hope I spelled that correctly) I've bought 3 steal bikes this year. 2 of them felt a little rough in the steering. One of them with an 85 Shimano 600 6207 headset appeared to never have been repacked. It had very, very slight pitting on the fork race. But, once I rebuilt it, it seems to be fine. The other, off a 92 bike, had significant pitting around the fork race. I replaced this headset with a Tange Levin because the Levin appears to have been original equipment on the third bike, an 84 Specialized Expedition, and seems to still be working fine. The older bikes still working fine, the newer one with pitting. Is it just a matter of the headset not being adjusted properly, or that the grease has been compromised and the bearings sticking in one place?
|
Originally Posted by rothenfield1
(Post 9995621)
I don't mean to steal this post, but thought it might be a good place to pose this question. What causes brinnelling? ( Hope I spelled that correctly) I've bought 3 steal bikes this year. 2 of them felt a little rough in the steering. One of them with an 85 Shimano 600 6207 headset appeared to never have been repacked. It had very, very slight pitting on the fork race. But, once I rebuilt it, it seems to be fine. The other, off a 92 bike, had significant pitting around the fork race. I replaced this headset with a Tange Levin because the Levin appears to have been original equipment on the third bike, an 84 Specialized Expedition, and seems to still be working fine. The older bikes still working fine, the newer one with pitting. Is it just a matter of the headset not being adjusted properly, or that the grease has been compromised and the bearings sticking in one place?
Chombi 84 Peugeot PSV 85(?) Vitus Carbone 7 Pus |
[QUOTE=rothenfield1;9995621Is it just a matter of the headset not being adjusted properly, or that the grease has been compromised and the bearings sticking in one place?[/QUOTE]
you got it. when you adjust the cups too tightly in a bottom bracket or hubs, they wear evenly since they spin in circles. if you do the same to a headset, it creates small grooves since you notice you only turn your handlebars slightly. this creates the indexing effect. i just made that up, but i'm pretty sure that's what happens. |
my experience is that headsets adjusted too loosely are the quickest to suffer brinelling
|
Brinelling is caused by an impact, ie the races show indentations from the balls. What many people think of brinelling is actually fretting or wear caused by small movements in the same position. This causes the grease to migrate away from the bearing surfaces and the metal to metal contact creates wear and/or corrosion at the contact points. On bikes this is caused by the constant road vibration in the straight ahead position. It can be caused during shipment of bearing assemblies when the rotating parts aren't rotating but are vibrated while stationary.
|
Originally Posted by strop
(Post 9986125)
I'm still running the Galli Tapered Roller Bearing (aka needle bearing) headset that I put on my road bike in 1983, it's never been adjusted and still turns smoothly with no detents and has no up/down play in it.
They were very highly regarded at the time but I can barely find a mention of them on the net these days so I assume they went toes up a very long time ago. I have not seen them in the flesh, but Boulder/Rene Herse has these Miche needle-bearing headsets. Worth considering. |
Originally Posted by canopus
(Post 9995272)
Chombi |
Originally Posted by Sluggo
(Post 9997625)
I put a Galli road group on my Early back in '84 or so, consisting of Galli brakes, crank, and derailleurs, Maillard hubs and pedals, the aforementioned Stronglight headset, and Stronglight sealed BB and shifters. The headset is one of the few survivors, and it hardly shows any wear.
http://os2.dhs.org/~john/A9.jpg Virtually no wear on the top races, and very minimal wear on the bottom. I swapped top for bottom and reassembled. I'll report back in another 20 years. :) |
Errr, Campy Record?? Mine has been bomber forever! In fact, all Campy headsets
|
Thumbs up:
* Tange Falcon - I have this one on my Miyata 1000 and it is as smooth as butter. * Stronglight B10/A9 - light, and well-regarded * Kuwahara-branded ones found on many, many Apollo bicycles - they just seem to be of a decent quality. Easy to adjust and seem to last well. Thumbs down / questionable: * Shimano Sante - not well-regarded, though I wish I could try one out on one of my bikes * Campy SR - seems to get a bad rap for pitted lower cups and crown races. Anyone care to comment? * Any headset with a poorly-machined locknut. I can't count the number of crappy headsets I've come across where a "standard" 32mm headset spanner is too loose, even though this is obviously the size they are supposed to take. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:29 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.