Bike Forums - Sealed hub bearings: to replace or not to replace?

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- - Sealed hub bearings: to replace or not to replace? (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/601327-sealed-hub-bearings-replace-not-replace.html)

and just to share a little trivia: the "RS" stands for rubber seal, usually a bearing supplier will have the series number bearing available in either 1RS or 2RS, meaning sealed on 1 side or 2. if the number is followed by "Z", it's shielded: a metal shield that clips into the body but doesn't offer as much protection from the elements as the spring-steel-covered-with-rubber seal.

I am just going to say it. Sealed cartridge bearing are the greatest thing since sliced bread. A really good sealed bearing is going to have more drag than good cup and cone bearings but if they are sealed well you will never need to touch them. Also, there are ceramic and ceramic hybrid bearing available, these close and maybe open up gap in the other direction as far as friction coefficients go and these can be installed in "vintage" cartridge bearing hubs.
Vive la cartridge bearings.

Pun intended.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellowjeep (Post 10016280)

...if they are sealed well you will never need to touch them.

Oh hush!

You just want to take the fun away from all of us OCD guys... if we can't worry about bearing contamination, what will we worry about? :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by unworthy1 (Post 10014929)

another point with *cartridge sealed* bearing hubs: the outer race is usually a tight press-fit in the hub shell, and the axle is firmly held to the inner race by the friction of the so-called "cone" because that's what makes the rotating action taken completely by the ball bearings. If the cartridge pops out of the shell as easily as you say, I think the hub shell has worn to the point that the cartridge itself can spin...which defeats the principal. Your hubs may not be worth rebuilding if that's the case, and continued spinning will just make the wear worse. If you want to save them I'd try LocTite GREEN for the outer races/hub contact, if the wear is too much for that maybe an epoxy like JB Weld.

interesting point, hadn't thought of that. but, the outer races weren't so loosely contained inside the hub shell as to allow rotation! if, after reassembly they don't feel snug, i will apply some loctite or JB weld to the contact surface.

Quote:

Originally Posted by illwafer (Post 10017433)

thx miamijim.

+1. I was reading the thread and dreading typing out an explanation. Not that I would have done such a good job though so bravo, miamijim.

The sealed two sides cartridge bearings are easily serviced in place and should be.
Flip out the seal on the exposed side with a knife point, save it carefully.
Wipe out the old grease left on the balls with toilet paper.
Wipe, wipe,round and round untill mostly clean.
Use no solvent!!!
Wipe in new grease(I like disc brake wheel bearing grease in a red tube at Ace hardware)
Pop the seal back in/on.
Done.
Bill

When it comes to Cartridge hub bearings, I find it's cheap and easy to replace them.

I just match the manufacturer's code number, then pop out the old, and pop in the new.
If they're rusted in, I just heat the hub a little and the alloy expands faster than the bearing case.

http://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.asp...FYeo4Aod3xUFlw
http://www.speedgoat.com/Images/products/P-332-t.jpg

I've been amazed how some cartridge bearings keep spinning smoothly year after year.

Even "dry" ones where the axle spins like a top, ten more years and still smooth, these in my "rain" bike's EDCO hubs, which do also feature an external, well-fitted metal shield.

So I don't jinx a cartridge bearing hub that is free of freeplay and still has a perfectly-smooth turning action by taking it apart or loosening anything. A very small speck of grit will turn a superfine bearing finish into one that is not, and even the slightest bit of side-loading from the quick release compressing the axle might have a seemingly perfect bearing adjustment instead destroying those seemingly ageless bearings!

Any cartridge bearing however, that shows even the slightest bit of audible vibration that can be heard or felt while turning, is in self-destruct mode and surely within the last 10% of it's life.

An external spritz of WD-40, TriFlow or other penetrant that migrates into a cartridge bearing past it's seal invariably drags along some grit that can drastically reduce the bearing's life. Ask me how I know!

Again I advise that axle adjustments allow for the inevitable shortening of the axle due to the quick-release's pressure, orthe bearing life (any type of bearing) can be extremely short.

Pitty bump for pic update...

So....

Since first posting the tutorial I've come across new information pertaining to servicing cartridge bearings. Enduro, a cartridge bearing manufacturer, uses a 'pick' to remove seals...'pick' 'sharp blade'...choose your weapon. Just be careful not to damage the seal. Enduro also recommends a less than 100% grease fill....I think its around 90% fill.

Quote:

Originally Posted by miamijim (Post 19718093)

Awesome post. Thanks for updating the photos. BTW, I think you reversed 8 and 9.

Quote:

Originally Posted by miamijim (Post 10004116)

Let me start off by clarifying a few things about 'sealed cartridge' hubs:

'Sealed': For all intents and purposes sealed cartridge/sealed bearing hubs use sealed bearings. The bearings thenselves have seals to keep them clean. They are sealed. To call them anything other sealed would be a misnomer or akin to splitting hairs. A perfect seal that never allowed moisture in would have too much friction or would be too overly complex or cost prohibitive for a cycling application.

Inside/outside seals: Over the years I've repacked hundreds of selaed cartridge hubs. Every one of them has had seals on the inboard and outboard sides of the bearing. On the occasion when I'd replace a bearing it was always uni-directional, it didnt matter which side was facing in or out because both sides were sealed. The only cartridge bearing I've ever seen without seald on both sides was from an Olmo BB I disassembles a few weeks ago. It had a seal on the outboard side but was open on the inner side relying on the BB sleeve to keep everything clean.

Adjustment: Dont over think this. 'Play' with conventional bearing hubs is checked by rocking the axle 'up and down' or wiggling the tire between the chainstays. 'Play' with a cartridge bearing hub is checked by pressing the axle left to right or in and out.

Q/R compression: As a Q/R is clamped down everything is squeezed together on both conventional and cartridge hubs. I've noticed that conventional hub need much more 'play' to compensate Q/R compression whereas cartridge hubs need virtualy none.

Overhaul procedure:

Pic 1. The hub depicting the direction play is checked. Red/1 is for conventional hubs while Blue/2 is for cartridge bearing hubs.
Pic 2. Take it apart like any other hub.
Pic 3. Disassembly detail. If axle doesnt cone out easily tap it with something. A BFH works well.
Pic 4. Disassembly detail 2.
Pic 5. Removal of outer seal with a cutting blade. Always remove from the inside edge. Its nowhere near as bad as it looks. A screwdriver is too big and will damage the seal.
Pic 6. Opened up. This hub had been previously serviced.
Pic 7. Cleaning it up. I use a toothbrush and Dawn Direct Foaming dish detergent.
Pic 8. Nice and clean.
Pic 9. Greased up.
Pic 10. Seal back in place.

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 6
Pic 7
Pic 8
Pic 9
Pic 10

Outstanding writeup! Just overhauled my Suntour Sprint hubset with your directions - worked like a charm super easy thanks!