700c size rims advice needed on vintage 80's bikes!
11-10-09, 01:54 AM
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700c size rims advice needed on vintage 80's bikes!
Hello all!
Need advice on getting a couple sets of replacement 700 size wheels, and I know nothing about the topic...
After mining a bunch of great info here I have just recently joined the forums and I have a question on a matter of opinion here and I hope you can help!
I have recently purchased a couple 'classic Made in Japan' Fuji bikes, a 1985 Fuji Opus III (around 20lbs!) and the model a couple down from it - a Red with yellow trim 1985 Club Fuji. I also lucked into a 84' Team Fuji for my Girlfriend, but I will let her worry about that one (it is in fine shape!).
The previous owner of the 85' Club Fuji (rather a middle man, who was a nice older fellow who knew nothing about bikes selling it for a deployed military buddy of his) decided to try to hop on the Club Fuji, bending the rear non-original 700 size wheel (the spokes are visibly bent). And he embarrassingly told me the story of him falling off the bike in horrible pain and hitting his ol' head on the pavement...
only in Florida...
Anyhow I only have about $100 and change in the Club Fuji and it has the Suntour Cyclone group on it, with the vintage track Pedals... and it and shifts well...
Also the Fuji Opus is in great shape and all original except for the wheelset, which is unlabeled with unlabeled hubs but appears to be all aluminum.
I was wondering what a reasonably priced choice for wheels for these bikes would be in your humble and informed opinions... the wheel sizes on both bikes is 700 x 25c according to the original catalogs at
https://classicfuji.com/1985_10_ClubFuji_Page.htm
The component set on the Club Fuji is Sun-Tour Cyclone and it has a SUn-Tour Mighty6 cluster on the rear wheel.
The component set on the Opus III is Sun-Tour Superbe Pro and it has a Sun-Tour Ultra6 cluster on the rear wheel.
I look forward to any advice and links you can give, as I don't know what to look for except that I have read that I would need a certain sort of wheel set as these are not modern or shimano etc etc etc. Please cure my ignorance on this if you can help.
Thanks in advance!
Shawn
Need advice on getting a couple sets of replacement 700 size wheels, and I know nothing about the topic...
After mining a bunch of great info here I have just recently joined the forums and I have a question on a matter of opinion here and I hope you can help!
I have recently purchased a couple 'classic Made in Japan' Fuji bikes, a 1985 Fuji Opus III (around 20lbs!) and the model a couple down from it - a Red with yellow trim 1985 Club Fuji. I also lucked into a 84' Team Fuji for my Girlfriend, but I will let her worry about that one (it is in fine shape!).
The previous owner of the 85' Club Fuji (rather a middle man, who was a nice older fellow who knew nothing about bikes selling it for a deployed military buddy of his) decided to try to hop on the Club Fuji, bending the rear non-original 700 size wheel (the spokes are visibly bent). And he embarrassingly told me the story of him falling off the bike in horrible pain and hitting his ol' head on the pavement...
only in Florida...
Anyhow I only have about $100 and change in the Club Fuji and it has the Suntour Cyclone group on it, with the vintage track Pedals... and it and shifts well...
Also the Fuji Opus is in great shape and all original except for the wheelset, which is unlabeled with unlabeled hubs but appears to be all aluminum.
I was wondering what a reasonably priced choice for wheels for these bikes would be in your humble and informed opinions... the wheel sizes on both bikes is 700 x 25c according to the original catalogs at
https://classicfuji.com/1985_10_ClubFuji_Page.htm
The component set on the Club Fuji is Sun-Tour Cyclone and it has a SUn-Tour Mighty6 cluster on the rear wheel.
The component set on the Opus III is Sun-Tour Superbe Pro and it has a Sun-Tour Ultra6 cluster on the rear wheel.
I look forward to any advice and links you can give, as I don't know what to look for except that I have read that I would need a certain sort of wheel set as these are not modern or shimano etc etc etc. Please cure my ignorance on this if you can help.
Thanks in advance!
Shawn
11-10-09, 04:56 AM
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Rim choices really depend on what kind of riding you're looking to do and your weight. 700x25c is a tire size, not a rim size. Rims are just 700c.
Anyway, if the hubs are in decent shape, I'd lace them to a pair of mavic open pros...which you can probably find on sale for around 50ish a rim. If that seems high, you can always look at open sports.
If the hubs are trashed too, I'd probably look for a good deal on a donor bike because of wheel prices...cannibalize the wheels, strip it and sell the parts and frame. That assumes that you have other bikes and can wait through a project. If you need the wheels and the bike active now, I'd bite the bullet, head to the local LBS and open my wallet.
I find that I always end up with a bunch of extra wheel sets lieing around, but that I frequently regret it when/if I sell them.
Anyway, if the hubs are in decent shape, I'd lace them to a pair of mavic open pros...which you can probably find on sale for around 50ish a rim. If that seems high, you can always look at open sports.
If the hubs are trashed too, I'd probably look for a good deal on a donor bike because of wheel prices...cannibalize the wheels, strip it and sell the parts and frame. That assumes that you have other bikes and can wait through a project. If you need the wheels and the bike active now, I'd bite the bullet, head to the local LBS and open my wallet.
I find that I always end up with a bunch of extra wheel sets lieing around, but that I frequently regret it when/if I sell them.
11-10-09, 09:25 AM
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Rim choices really depend on what kind of riding you're looking to do and your weight. 700x25c is a tire size, not a rim size. Rims are just 700c.
Anyway, if the hubs are in decent shape, I'd lace them to a pair of mavic open pros...which you can probably find on sale for around 50ish a rim. If that seems high, you can always look at open sports.
If the hubs are trashed too, I'd probably look for a good deal on a donor bike because of wheel prices...cannibalize the wheels, strip it and sell the parts and frame. That assumes that you have other bikes and can wait through a project. If you need the wheels and the bike active now, I'd bite the bullet, head to the local LBS and open my wallet.
I find that I always end up with a bunch of extra wheel sets lieing around, but that I frequently regret it when/if I sell them.
Anyway, if the hubs are in decent shape, I'd lace them to a pair of mavic open pros...which you can probably find on sale for around 50ish a rim. If that seems high, you can always look at open sports.
If the hubs are trashed too, I'd probably look for a good deal on a donor bike because of wheel prices...cannibalize the wheels, strip it and sell the parts and frame. That assumes that you have other bikes and can wait through a project. If you need the wheels and the bike active now, I'd bite the bullet, head to the local LBS and open my wallet.
I find that I always end up with a bunch of extra wheel sets lieing around, but that I frequently regret it when/if I sell them.
That is sort of what I was thinking, especially as here in Florida since there have been so many retirees etc that are now exiting this mortal coil there are many many bikes that pop up every month for pretty reasonable pricing...
but how will I know that the 700c Wheel will be compatible these suntour rear gear sets ???
Back then would all 700c size wheels allow for any rear 6 speed cluster?
Is it true what I read that newer hubs made to use Shimano will not work with older bikes???
Thanks!
11-10-09, 10:00 AM
#4
Senior Member
it isn't the wheel size that determines the speeds.
It is the hub and frame width. That era of bike is very standard with a 126mm spaced hub (distance between the rear frame dropouts), and a 6 speed freewheel (not to be confused with a cassette).
You should be able to remove the freewheel with a tool (purchase or have your LBS remove it) and use it on a new wheel with a threaded body)
Or you can purchase a new wheel with everything.
Or you can cannibalize a wheel like as already been suggested.
Or you can re-lace just the rear with your existing hub and freewheel and a new rim (and probably spokes)
Newer hubs that use cassettes are spaced differently so if you want to attempt that you may have to replace the entire drivetrain (hub, cassette, chain, shifters) or you might be able to find some NOS/used stuff that might allow you to retain the friction shifting.
It is the hub and frame width. That era of bike is very standard with a 126mm spaced hub (distance between the rear frame dropouts), and a 6 speed freewheel (not to be confused with a cassette).
You should be able to remove the freewheel with a tool (purchase or have your LBS remove it) and use it on a new wheel with a threaded body)
Or you can purchase a new wheel with everything.
Or you can cannibalize a wheel like as already been suggested.
Or you can re-lace just the rear with your existing hub and freewheel and a new rim (and probably spokes)
Newer hubs that use cassettes are spaced differently so if you want to attempt that you may have to replace the entire drivetrain (hub, cassette, chain, shifters) or you might be able to find some NOS/used stuff that might allow you to retain the friction shifting.
11-10-09, 10:28 AM
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@ Canopus - Thanks! That is just the sort of information I was looking for... I would rather look like a newbie on here than go down to the LBS and ask that question where all the dudes wear spandex 24/7 and are super serious...
