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Schwinn Traveler maybe 1980 vintage-Improve Brakes-how? Pads?

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Schwinn Traveler maybe 1980 vintage-Improve Brakes-how? Pads?

Old 11-24-09, 02:00 PM
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phoebeisis
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Schwinn Traveler maybe 1980 vintage-Improve Brakes-how? Pads?

I just bought this bike on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
It is a 10 speed Schwinn Traveler 'girls bike" $100 delivered.
I just wanted a decent bike with low step thru for my wife.
The description says Chrome Moly frame butted tubes?? I have my doubts about the butted tubes,and even the chrome moly frame-anyone know if that is actually what the frame is made from??

No big matter-just curious about it.$100 for a functional bike is ok.

How can I improve the braking on it??
I did lots of riding in the 60's 70's 80's on bikes from that era,and the brakes weren't really brakes; they were more a "suggestion" of braking. Now I ride bikes-mtb types-with actual brakes-V-brakes, canti and disc.They brake almost as well as motorcycles.

Is there any magic pad out there that will improve the braking to decent on these older bikes?
I have a set of old-1979 Mathauser pads/shoes and they are better, much better than stock, but not in the same ballpark with even the cheapest V-brakes.
Yes, I know this question is asked 5 times per week, but I'm hoping someone has stumbled onto some great replacement pads that haven't been mentioned.

I can probably track down a recent vintage fork with V-brake bosses on it-for 26 or 700c wheels-but I kinda like the older look, so I'm trying to avoid that solution(which works great by the way).Besides that will be a $30(fork-probably threadless 1") +$20 headset=$50+ solution.

The bike is one week away.

Thanks
Charlie
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Old 11-24-09, 02:07 PM
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nice looking bike. after a god tune up and replacing the current pads with a KoolStop salmon colored pads (very much like the old mathausers) if the braking is still not your or rather her liking a better set of brake levers is in order. they need not be fancy 'aero' type just somethign with better pull and less flex in them. old diacompes or suntours. OH the wheels are alloy yes?

with 27" wheels trying to replace the fork may be more $$$$ than you wish to spend
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Old 11-24-09, 02:21 PM
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looks to be an '84. From the ebay pics, i think the rims were swapped out. i believe they originally came with alloy rims, but the pics look steel (don't think alloy is that shinny). also looks like it is 4130, but not double butted.

http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...984Ltwt14.html
http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...984Ltwt19.html

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Old 11-24-09, 02:29 PM
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Bianchigirl
Thanks for the info-Koolstop salmen pads.
I might not bother with the 27" wheels. I have some 700c wheels/tires around, so I might switch them out.If the brake reach is too little,I will get out a round file and extend the caliper slot down 3mm or so(but I didn't say that on this CV forum-the more "rigorous" members will tar me).
If I switch forks I'll just use a 26" fork/wheel or a 700c fork wheel.There are fair numbers of 1" forks with V-brake bosses still around.The Traveler does have a fairly long steerer-maybe 7" via eyeball-so that will narrow my choices a bit.

With any luck the Salman pads with better levers will do the trick. My wife is no fan of drop bars, so I'm going to be changing them out right away anyway.


3373 I didn't realize that 10 speeds were made that late-1984-. I sorta' figured everything went to 12 speed by then.No surprise that Schwinn would be a bit behind the times.
So the rims might be steel? Well, no matter,I was planning to fit some 700c. I would be stunned to find that Schwinn put butted tubing on a pretty inexpensive bike-not sure where the seller got that info-no decals were legible in the pictures.
Thanks
Charlie

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Old 11-24-09, 02:33 PM
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All great advice so far...So.
+1 On new Salmon pads.
+1 On "aero" brake levers. They provide slightly better performance due to mechanical advantage.
+1 On aluminum wheels
If it's not up to snuff at that point a front drum brake hub would be awesome...Or maybe a swap to some dual pivot brake calipers. I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of the super cheap Tektros I got. I think they are the 800A nutted extra long reach which allow for an easy swap to 700c (or in my case 650b). Around $20 is what I paid.
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Old 11-24-09, 03:13 PM
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Nashabr has some double pivot calipers -their own "brand" that will probably be cheap if I catch them "returned",
Thanks
Charlie
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Old 11-24-09, 04:21 PM
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If the bike has the original alloy rims, I see no problem with the original brakes (well, the turkey wings aside.) Unless you live in a place with some nasty hills, braking should be fine. If you do not like them after you get the bike, get a pair of Shimano 600EX brakes and matching levers. No need to go aero with this frame... You can get them for $40 or so and it will be a huge improvement. Cantis (and a new fork or an adaptor) will be an overkill in this bike and costly.
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Old 11-24-09, 05:04 PM
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It is dead flat in south Louisiana-the only hills are bridges and overpasses.
I've gotten so accustomed to good/great brakes with the V-brakes and disc that 70's- vintage braking is startling .Mathauser pads/shoes (with thos neat fins) were the 70's solution-and they worked pretty well, but not in the same ballpark as Canti or V-brakes.

Modern V-brake bikes approach car brakes in stopping power in the 5-15 mph we ride.

EjustE- adapter?? There isn't any clamp on adapter to put canti bosses on a non canti fork, is there??

I've put forks with bosses on road bikes before- if you are hardcore CV- close your eyes. I like big soft tires, good brakes. It was tricky fitting this 40mm Michelin on the rear-I had to massage the dropouts(grind the slot back a bit),and the stays needed a bit of persuading with a sheet metal tool.
This isn't a fancy vintage classic-just a chrome moly Sekai-one of 100,000's.-1978 vintage-so no great loss to the vintage world,and a more useful bike.
I don't want to do this to the Schwinn-too expensive, and it is a kinda nice looking bike, so I don't want it to "look funny".I don't mind the Sekai looking"alternative bike" funny.

Thanks
Charlie
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Old 11-24-09, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by phoebeisis View Post
EjustE- adapter?? There isn't any clamp on adapter to put canti bosses on a non canti fork, is there??
Yeah. lookie:



from here: http://www.gaerlan.com/bikeparts/par...es/brakes.html
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Old 11-24-09, 05:30 PM
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I went through this process with an 83 bike, so hopefully you can learn from my experience ...

Original calipers were Suntour Superbe (Campagnolo Super Record clones), Shimano Dura Ace Aero levers. Braking was pretty hopeless.

1. Went to LBS and spent $50+ on Koolstop pad set and holders. Negligible improvement if any, lots of noisy squealing.
2. New Mavic KSyrium Elite rims with machined braking surface. No improvement.
3. New Campagnolo Super Record cables and housing. No improvement.
3. Bought a set of mint condition Ultegra 6600 double pivot brakes and pads on eBay for $49. Replaced levers with R600 aero levers ($70 new).

Holy crap! Now the bike stops on a dime.

I also bought new Dura Ace pads just in case but to be honest the braking is so good with the old pads that I haven't bothered putting them on yet.

You may have an issue with the modern brakes using a recessed bolt as it looks from the photos like your front at least uses a long bolt and external nut. I didn't have that problem because my bike was originally built for a recessed bolt and was using a recessed shim to hold the Suntours (which I removed to mount the Shimanos).
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Old 11-24-09, 05:40 PM
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+1 Dump the steel rims. They sure look like steel in that picture. The original brakes with some good new pads should be fine once you get alloy rims.
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Old 11-24-09, 06:01 PM
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Ejust E- wow- no idea that such an adapter was out there-not cheap is it.

Strop- hmmm, the cheapest double pivots are about $30 delivered(nashbar) - not a bad idea, and not too expensive.

wrk101 - if those rims are steel, they will be the first to go.Nice shiny chrome plated steel isn't a great friction surface.I have some 700c I'm going to fit to it.

Thanks
Charlie
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Old 11-24-09, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by phoebeisis View Post

wrk101 - if those rims are steel, they will be the first to go.Nice shiny chrome plated steel isn't a great friction surface.I have some 700c I'm going to fit to it.
Then you will have to change the brakes for sure, because the originals will hit low on 700c tires...
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Old 11-24-09, 06:27 PM
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I might be able to file the brake shoe slot down about 2-3 mm-maybe that will be enough to make up for the 4mm lower rim.Fingers crossed on that of course.

Do I have that right-or backwards- 700c=622 27=630mm ? So the 700c are shorter(lower), so the 27" calipers are not long enough?? They should be 8 mm shorter, but just 4 mm lower than the 27"?
Charlie
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Old 11-24-09, 07:49 PM
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4mm shorter.
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Old 11-24-09, 08:57 PM
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Right-the wheels are 8 mm shorter-overall- but 4 mm lower. 2- mm filing on the slots is usually enough to get 27" brakes to work.
Thanks
Charlie

PS The more I look at it the more I have to agree with the hawk eyed steel wheels "seeers". They are waaay shiny, and the seller makes no mention of alloy rims-just Schwinn wheels. Oh well, for $100 delivered no big deal.I'll pass the steel wheels onto some Schwinn "flipper" on CL.We-New Orleans metro-suddenly have lots of what I take to be flippers.They are asking >$175 for so,so Schwinns-like the Varsity/Continental etc in OK shape. Who want to pay that kind of money for a 40 lbs bike??

With steel wheels I expect this one will be 31 lbs or so, and it will be sub 30 lbs with decent 700c wheels.

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