23skidoo

I have nothing to add to this discussion except +1 on PurpleHayesBikes; I've made a couple of nice purchases from him on fleabay.

mkeller234

Yeah, and the guy is super cool in person.

Homebrew01

So, did you determine if the CCP-1 is the correct tool for you ?

cudak888 

If he wants to pull TA/Nevar, he can do so with a CCP-1.

I believe he is less concerned with what he can pull with it then finding the remaining half of the tool that is presently missing.

-Kurt

mkeller234

Correct, I haven't gotten around to it yet with work and all. I'm going to try to make it to the C&V bike shop this weekend, I have to look around for fenders for a few people anyway.

gnyatko

lol, thats not correct!. You need the center piece to press against the bottom bracket spindle or all youre doing is threading in half the tool!

gnyatko

No, their older park wrench had that flip/ flop that fit a English/ Japanese on one side, and the Stronglight TA cranks on the other. I used it many times in the old bike shop that I worked in.

merziac

No worries, but this is a 10 yr old zombie thread.

Welcome aboard, glad you found us, keep posting and show us what you got.

JohnDThompson 

No, the Park CCP-1 is 22mm x 23mm, for standard and TA cranks, but not pre-1982 Stronglight, which uses a 23.35mm extractor thread. There is a very real risk of stripping the extractor threads if you use the 23mm TA side on a pre-1982 Stronglight crank arm. Sutherland's explicitly cautions against this:


Source: Sutherland's 4th Edition

cudak888 

That comment may have been in the context of using an appropriately threaded nut in conjunction with the mystery tool.​​​​​​​

Wrong. Stronglight and TA are NOT the same, as John D. points out above. The Park only does 22mm/23mm, not the Stronglight 23.35mm.

Also, had you read the entirety of this thread before posting, you would have noted that the correct answer (including the TA 23mm vs. Stronglight 23.35mm incompatibility) was covered in detail. Additionally, a picture that I posted ten years ago of three common variations of Park crank extractor lists the CCP-1's exact specifications.

There was no misinformation here when the thread was concluded back in 2009 - the only thing that was never resolved was curiosity over a a flip/flop remover tool with a much coarser thread than the Park. Funny thing, I think one of those has been through my hands in the years since this thread...must check the toolboxes.

-Kurt

cudak888 

I just had a rummange through the toolbox and finally have an answer for @mkeller234: The coarser-thread tool is from Park's earliest crank removal tool, the predecessor to the CCP-1. Again, it's a 22mm/23mm English/TA tool.





Also, despite the way it may look in the pics, this tool is at least an inch shorter than the contemporary CCP-1 through 4 models. The handle is also a lot weaker; it's a softer grade of steel than the others.

Also, given how many generations of remover are reflected here, I think it is safe to make an educated guess that Park has never made a 23.35mm Stronglight crank removal tool. I've never heard of one.

-Kurt

bikemig 

I have that tool and that's what it is (standard threading on one side, TA on the other). TA and stronglight are close enough so that that TA puller can be used for a stronglight crank. I'm not suggesting that is a good idea but most of the time that works. That would explain why it threaded in to the stronglight crank.

scarlson 

In my experience there is quite a bit of variation in the thread fit, between one Stronglight crank and the next. Sometimes they fit the TA puller and won't take the (slightly larger) Stronglight one.

3alarmer 

...I still have and use one of the old Park double headed pullers with that ancient thread standard for the interior bolt. The handle gave up long ago, which is just as well because I hate those handles. I had to go to the industrial park nuts and bolts place to get a bolt that was the right diameter and threading. ( I now forget what the threading is). But if you neck down the end of the bolt so it is small enough to clear the inner square opening on a standard alloy crank, it works better than the original. With a wrench on the bolt, you get a longer lever arm. You're also free to adjust the position of the wrench handle in mid pull...something you cannot do with a fixed handle.

I never could figure out why Park went in that fixed handle direction with their design for this tool. It has always struck me as a step backward.

And yes, even though it's not the Stronglight standard on the larger side of the head, it has fit and removed a number of Stronglight cranks. I did not always have an official Stronglight crank puller, but I do now. And it doesn't have a stupid integral handle.

dddd

Count me as one who broke the handle off of the early Park tool, then I had to enhance the flat(s) on the threaded shaft to allow gripping it with an adjustable wrench. It did indeed feature coarser threading than later Park pullers.

I have removed early Stronglight cranks with the Park 23mm puller, but instead of reefing on the handle, I tension it more moderately and then stand on the pedals, "jump", reverse the crank 180 degrees and jump again. Then, with incremental re-tensionings of the tool (left in place while "jumping" on the pedals), the crankarm comes off after a few cycles without ever having to heavily tighten the puller to the point of pulling through the 23.3mm threading in the arm.

Back in the 70's I pulled off at least several 93 arms without incident using just the 23mm tool and no jumping, but I have heard that this often strips out the threads. I would hate to see a stripping out of one of those old arms! Today I have a proper Stronglight puller that was being discarded by the local shop.

Love a good zombie thread, lots of them in the archives by now!

rustystrings61 

I feel the need to interject a side note about Nervar cranks and Park tools. The Nervar Star and 631 (50.4 bcd) cranks I have worked with required a standard 22 mm puller, NOT a 23, which is apparently as much a T.A. proprietary size as 23.35 mm is for Stronglight. As an additional side note, when you encounter a T.A. crank with damaged threads, a Stronglight puller will work with the damaged threads - at least once, anyway.