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-   -   rear derailer problem (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/620965-rear-derailer-problem.html)

newman_zero 02-09-10 11:52 AM

rear derailer problem
 
Hello people,

Having a bit of trouble getting into either bottom or top gear. Recently replaced my rear wheel, but kept the same 5 speed freewheel and derailer. Messed about with a few shims/spacers in between freewheel and axel (old wheel had 3, so far tried 2 and 3) and adjusting the wire, but it seems that what ever I do, its only good for four our of the five gears. Its a 60s/70s sun worksop (basically a raleigh) not sure if it had this probably before as it was un-rideable when I first got it. Is there a proper way to set a derailer up? as in put it into first gear tighten 'this and that' then check the rest kind of thing? Cheers for any help...

Ex Pres 02-09-10 12:17 PM

Sounds like you could have limit screw issues, but could be a multitude of things. You really need to start from scratch. Are you familiar with either the Park Tool or Sheldon Brown's websites?

Grand Bois 02-09-10 01:57 PM

I don't understand where you are putting those shims. "Between the freewheel and axel" makes no sense at all, even if you mean axle. Take the shims out and follow the Park instructions from the beginning.

newman_zero 02-09-10 02:36 PM

thanks for the replies, I've had a quick look on sheldon and park tools, I will go back and have another look, but they both seemed to be more modern derailers, well maybe not modern, but I seem to remember them mentioning parts that I don't have. The only things I can see to adjust are the limit screws (both are fully out, chain falling between sprocket and drop out isn't really a problem right now) and the length/tension of the wire. Although I did mean to spell axle correctly, its probably not the correct term at all. The shims are put on the threaded part of the rear hub before the freewheel is threaded on, so that the freewheel sits a bit further away. The reason for this is because the derailer doesn't like to want to stay on the largest cog (even if pushed). If the shims are put in place the freewheel moves towards the derailer, but since the bolt on the axle is still further out, therefore stopping the dropout/hanger moving away aswell. It seems like a 'B-adjustment screw' might solve my problems, but I dont think I have one. Sorry for the long winded explanation, I don't know bikes very well at all. Might just put up with not having a gear, not too many hills around here anyway!


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