misaligned fork - WWYD?
 

I've been getting a weird unstable feeling, especially tracking, on my 62cm Ciöcc. I just gave a look and yikes, the front wheel is way off center. Checked a couple of wheels to be sure it's not a dishing or axle spacing issue. Misaligned.

Now, the fork itself is already pretty beat. Matching dings on the backs of the blades (prev. owner), shoddy chrome. Would you pay to have the fork realigned ($100+?) or start hunting for a replacement fork. I can't imagine finding a chromed Columbus sloping crown fork with a lonnnng steerer tube will be easy or reasonably priced.

What would you do?

Find someone to do the work at a reasonable price. If you were local I'd do it for $25 and feel a little guilty for charging that much.

Can I cold-set it the same as rear spacing? I've done the Sheldon 2x4 method a couple times before.

I mailed mine to southwestframeworks last week. They charge $25 + return shipping.

Are you sure the fork is misaligned, or is the wheel simply sitting in the ends off vertical? I have a fork with one end slightly longer than the other, so I have to position the axle slightly down on one side (not flush in the cradle of the end) to keep the wheel from skewing. I had the alignment checked by an LBS owner with experience building frames, and he said sometimes one of the fork legs is longer than the other, or it's been brazed in the crown slightly lower or one of the ends has been brazed slightly lower than the other.

I paid a shop with the fork alignment tool locally $30 to do it... some form members like cudak888 even own this tool.

Does your fork look anything like this? I just sent the seller a note suggesting he disclose the bent forks.

If the steerer tube or crown is out of whack its never going to be right. My advice (I've straightened hundreds of forks) is to drop it off at a reputable shop that has the proper fork jig. If they dont have the jig they shouldnt be getting near it.

Thanks, Gents. I'm going to have it checked professionally.

Junkyard - it was definitely sitting flush in the drops, as I've made that mistake several times previous. I suppose if I get a diagnosis from the pros that one side is gimpy or something, I'll have to replace it.

The thing that makes me think it might be an adjustment is that there are matching kinks on the backside upper portion of the blades, an inch or 2 below the crown. Maybe got banged around at some point before I got it.

I have done this a few times - be careful!!!
 

It is good to have access to a fork gauge and someone who knows how to use it, and more importantly, when not to use it.

I straightened out the fork blades of my PX10 using a fork gauge to check my work. I never once attempted to bend or stress a weld(braze/silver solder) joint.

In a nut shell and do not try this at home...


Set the forks up in the gauge.
Attachment 138379


Set the arms flush with the crown...
Attachment 138380


then check any difference in measurements, at various points along the length of the fork blades...
Attachment 138381


and between the ends of the gauge rod "T" for both different clearance and center.
Attachment 138383


Cold set as required, being careful to not go too far, check and repeat until the end result measures and looks good.
Attachment 138382
And the wheel sits where it is supposed to.


Or pay someone who knows how to do this for you. And might I add that seeking a particular fork in a particular size is a not so rewarding endeavor.

Hope this is a help.

Could be the fork crown/leg seam depending on the style of fork.

The fork on one of my peugeot frames is like this. I found it on the side of the road so I assumed that someone had damaged it rather than the one fork blade being longer as a factory defect. Rides fine so long as you align the front wheel when you install it though (very easy to ride no handed).

I'll bump this with a pic, just because this fork still has some mystery for me in all its imperfections. Here's a clear one of the backside dings. Maybe from rough loading on a rack?

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_euFh98x6Mqo/S4...0/IMG_9022.JPG

That's ugly. Almost looks like it was pryed on with a bar. Maybe someone trying take off a U-Lock?

It's been hammered, for some unknown reason. Front ender improperly repaired?

You need a new fork, that's for sure. Wouldn't ride that thing.

-Kurt

What do you think of this. I might be waiting a while for Columbus. You think the Tange is decent quality?

A bit expensive, but I'd go for it in a heartbeat. You'll be waiting for ages to find another replacement fork for a frame that size that isn't threaded so far down that you'll split the steerer when installing the stem. GO FOR IT.

-Kurt

Jesse,

The Tange fork is probably just as good as the Columbus but there's an issue with the Tange, its chromed all the way to the top. The chrome will need to be buzzed off with a sander before it can be cut down and rethreaded. You''ll have $130+ into it by the time your done.

Well, as it stands this particular fork might be too short for me (barely), if indeed the steerer measure is to the bottom of the tube and not to the top of the race seat. (62cm frame with a 7 7/8" head tube)

Why would the chrome have to be buzzed off, Jim? Does it add to much thickness to the threads making it impossible to get the headset on there - if so, why would they chrome the whole thing? :notamused:

Chrome is an extremely hard metal and dulls cutting tools like dies and taps very quickly. Nothing more, nothing less. They chrome the entire fork because its easier.

+1 I took my Casati to a local shop and they charged me a four pack of Surly. They thought the Casati was cool, so we sat around all afternoon talking about steel bikes. Had to walk home.

I see. But, if this steerer tube turned out to be the length I need without having to be cut down at all, and it's already threaded, then the chrome wouldn't be an issue?

I've had high quality steel forks re-aligned and otherwise repaired in the past, no problems, and cheaper than getting a new fork. That's what I'd do, have it repaired.

With a 7-7/8“ head tube, and 8-7/8” steerer tube, you only have 25 mm for headset stack; that sounds too short to me. You need more like 40-42 mm for Super Record, or 33 min for something else. Chrome can be gotten off the same way it's put on: electrolysis. I have some forks that seem to be fully chromed, and some that are just chromed halfway up the steerer.

Correct, no issue.

Jim - are you with Kurt on this - not ridable as is? I've been riding on it, but light predictable loops. I suppose I could lay off and use my other ride until I find a replacement.

I dont know if its rideable but its not straightenable.