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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 02-07-22, 09:31 PM
  #25701  
Chuck M 
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
While this is none of my f'n business, having had to unfortunately deal with 4 estates in the past 2 years, I hope all of the folks that have amassed such amazing collections of parts have a *written* plan for what to do with them in the event of their passing on. I can tell you through personal experience it is not easy as the executor who may not be involved in a hobby/vocation as deeply as the deceased to do justice to distributing years of collected treasures. And when dealing with the grief of losing a loved one decisions such as "toss it all out" are far too common.
I picked up a bike this weekend I offered $40 for in correspondence. When I went to look at it I offered $50 and the lady was quite happy. The way I look at it is my kids and grandkids have to sell my crap one day and I hope someone is fair with them. But I don't have near the quality collection a lot of the C&V crowd has.
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Old 02-07-22, 10:48 PM
  #25702  
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Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
Raleigh Clubman 23" for $100 in VA. I see wingnuts and chrome socks and...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...14189133177902

Ooh, that’s a screaming deal. Either a ‘50 or a ‘51 given the color scheme. Looks nicely preserved, too.
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Old 02-09-22, 04:30 PM
  #25703  
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
While this is none of my f'n business, having had to unfortunately deal with 4 estates in the past 2 years, I hope all of the folks that have amassed such amazing collections of parts have a *written* plan for what to do with them in the event of their passing on. I can tell you through personal experience it is not easy as the executor who may not be involved in a hobby/vocation as deeply as the deceased to do justice to distributing years of collected treasures. And when dealing with the grief of losing a loved one decisions such as "toss it all out" are far too common.
I've seen the 'Toss it all out" thing happen all to many times. I had a long time neighbor pass away around 5 years ago, he had one kid, who didn't live locally anymore. His son and daughter-in-law. showed up one weekend to 'clean out the house' because they needed to sell it fast.
The old guy was an avid woodworker, former mechanic and machinist, and retired Korean war vet.
They threw every last item the old guy had in the trash, luckily I saw it and got to it before the scrappers did. The old guy had a full wood shop, plus a metal lathe, tools boxes, welders, and tons of tooling.
He had 11 old bikes, most were 50's and 60's balloon and middleweights, and a ton of 50's Chevy parts.
All they saw was a big payday from selling the house.
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Old 02-10-22, 08:24 AM
  #25704  
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Here's final update on my 1940 Raleigh Sports Light Roadster project. It's now rideable! I took it around the block and was very happy with how it felt. I like these Schwalbe tires a lot. Gears and brakes worked fine (though gearing is a bit higher than I'm used to for a Sports). Thanks to @cudak888 for the tips on manufacturing a double-ended rear brake cable, to @BigChief for the period-correct stem, and to @clubman for being a bad influence.

Once again, the as-found pic:


And the as-of-this-morning pics:





Note the black housing on the reflector.

That's the original chain!

Twee saddle bag from my stash and original saddle.

Front, stem-mounted lamp bracket is particular to this era.

Original grips, I believe.

Hard to tell it's not the original cable end!
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Old 02-10-22, 08:29 AM
  #25705  
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Downright gorgeous, Neal. So glad I could help with the info on the brass motorcycle cable ends.

-Kurt

P.S. to all: Soldering them can be tricky, but I use a combo of galvanized cable (yes, I know - couldn't get it to work on stainless) and a small butane torch. Works quite well.
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Old 02-10-22, 08:31 AM
  #25706  
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That is in better shape than my '51. Just outstanding.
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Old 02-10-22, 09:16 AM
  #25707  
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Glad to be of service.
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Old 02-10-22, 11:56 AM
  #25708  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
P.S. to all: Soldering them can be tricky, but I use a combo of galvanized cable (yes, I know - couldn't get it to work on stainless) and a small butane torch. Works quite well.
Here are the bits I used plus soldering iron:

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Old 02-10-22, 12:12 PM
  #25709  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Here's final update on my 1940 Raleigh Sports Light Roadster project. It's now rideable! I took it around the block and was very happy with how it felt. I like these Schwalbe tires a lot. Gears and brakes worked fine (though gearing is a bit higher than I'm used to for a Sports). Thanks to @cudak888 for the tips on manufacturing a double-ended rear brake cable, to @BigChief for the period-correct stem, and to @clubman for being a bad influence.

Note the black housing on the reflector.

That's the original chain!

Twee saddle bag from my stash and original saddle.

Front, stem-mounted lamp bracket is particular to this era.

Original grips, I believe.

Hard to tell it's not the original cable end!
That looks a charming ride. Are you bringing it to the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour in May? If yes you might consider a 22T cog in the rear.
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Old 02-10-22, 12:55 PM
  #25710  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
That looks a charming ride. Are you bringing it to the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour in May? If yes you might consider a 22T cog in the rear.
Thanks! At some point, I'd like to participate in that event, but it won't be this year, unfortunately.
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Old 02-11-22, 07:55 AM
  #25711  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Here's final update on my 1940 Raleigh Sports Light Roadster project. It's now rideable! I took it around the block and was very happy with how it felt. I like these Schwalbe tires a lot. Gears and brakes worked fine (though gearing is a bit higher than I'm used to for a Sports). Thanks to @cudak888 for the tips on manufacturing a double-ended rear brake cable, to @BigChief for the period-correct stem, and to @clubman for being a bad influence.

Once again, the as-found pic:


And the as-of-this-morning pics:





Note the black housing on the reflector.

That's the original chain!


Twee saddle bag from my stash and original saddle.

Front, stem-mounted lamp bracket is particular to this era.

Original grips, I believe.

Hard to tell it's not the original cable end!
Brilliant!!! Museum quality work.
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Old 02-11-22, 10:59 AM
  #25712  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Here's final update on my 1940 Raleigh Sports Light Roadster project. It's now rideable! I took it around the block and was very happy with how it felt. I like these Schwalbe tires a lot. Gears and brakes worked fine (though gearing is a bit higher than I'm used to for a Sports). Thanks to @cudak888 for the tips on manufacturing a double-ended rear brake cable, to @BigChief for the period-correct stem, and to @clubman for being a bad influence.

Once again, the as-found pic:


And the as-of-this-morning pics:





Note the black housing on the reflector.

That's the original chain!

Twee saddle bag from my stash and original saddle.

Front, stem-mounted lamp bracket is particular to this era.

Original grips, I believe.

Hard to tell it's not the original cable end!
Wow!
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Old 02-11-22, 06:38 PM
  #25713  
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Soldered end brake cable

Is there a tutorial somewhere how to make a cable with two soldered ends for these old English bikes.
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Old 02-11-22, 06:56 PM
  #25714  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak View Post
Is there a tutorial somewhere how to make a cable with two soldered ends for these old English bikes.
I can tell you what I did using the parts shown above in post 25708 and following @cudak888’s advice:

—You just need to create a soldered end on the caliper side of the cable, so I clipped off the barrel I didn’t need from that Clark’s cable and sized it with the old cable (which isn’t as easy as it sounds; I made it too long my first try).
—I put the cable stop in my vise and used a small binder clip to hold the cable in place while I soldered.
—I lightly sanded the cable end, cleaned it off with an alcohol pad, slipped on a motorcycle throttle cable nipple ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCYCLE-...-/132337628007) with the wide end just about flush with the cable end, and then fluxed the heck out of the cable and nipple.
—I heated the whole thing up with my soldering iron until the flux was smoking and sizzling and than applied a small amount of solder to the cable just above the nipple and then a bit more at the wide side of the nipple to form a dome. I practiced this technique first on some scrap cable to get a feel for how much solder was needed (you don’t need much).
—I cleaned up the new barrel end with a few strokes of a file to make it uniform.

I’ll recreate with some pics over the weekend.
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Old 02-11-22, 08:57 PM
  #25715  
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I've always used silver brazing wire to make up custom cables. This goes back to my vintage motorcycle days. You must use the proper flux. Lead solder flux won't do. Except for Sturmey Archer shifter cables. Lately, I have used 3/32" brass tubing fixed with JB Weld and a slight cinch in the tube for those.
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Old 02-12-22, 06:38 AM
  #25716  
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nlerner 's instructions are bang on.....a couple of other hacks that I tried (successfully) were: I used a cut down brass spoke nipple for the end (it fit in the brake arm perfectly and I have plenty of them lying around), and after inserting the cable but before soldering I "peened" over the cable end (more like spread it a bit) to form a slightly larger diameter that then took on solder. This is also an old motorcycle trick to help ensure a strong connection for brakes. I have no idea if true but I like to think the threads inside the nipple took on a bit more solder and created an even stronger wedge.
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Old 02-12-22, 08:27 AM
  #25717  
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@markk900, Last night as I was lacing a wheel up, I was wondering if a spoke nipple would also work as a cable end for these old Raleigh brakes. Looks like you've answered my question.
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Old 02-12-22, 11:37 AM
  #25718  
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I’ve done the trick with spoke nipples, but those throttle nipples are a better shape to work with and fit in the brake arm just right.
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Old 02-12-22, 04:36 PM
  #25719  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
I can tell you what I did using the parts shown above in post 25708 and following @cudak888’s advice:

—You just need to create a soldered end on the caliper side of the cable, so I clipped off the barrel I didn’t need from that Clark’s cable and sized it with the old cable (which isn’t as easy as it sounds; I made it too long my first try).
—I put the cable stop in my vise and used a small binder clip to hold the cable in place while I soldered.
—I lightly sanded the cable end, cleaned it off with an alcohol pad, slipped on a motorcycle throttle cable nipple ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCYCLE-...-/132337628007) with the wide end just about flush with the cable end, and then fluxed the heck out of the cable and nipple.
—I heated the whole thing up with my soldering iron until the flux was smoking and sizzling and than applied a small amount of solder to the cable just above the nipple and then a bit more at the wide side of the nipple to form a dome. I practiced this technique first on some scrap cable to get a feel for how much solder was needed (you don’t need much).
—I cleaned up the new barrel end with a few strokes of a file to make it uniform.

I’ll recreate with some pics over the weekend.
Its a good idea to clean the cable and treat it with flux as well. This should be done after the bit on the end has been fished onto the cable.

After the cable is prepped, its helpful to bend the individual strands over so they will not easily pull through the cable end. This way when you solder it up, it will be able to withstand greater tension.
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Old 02-13-22, 11:24 AM
  #25720  
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I hate to double post but I didn't realize a dedicated thread existed so I thought I'd repost it in the appropriate place:
When we were cleaning out our new-to-us house I dragged an old Raleigh Sports out of the cellar. Its's a '72 by the hub date. I could've chucked in the bin with the rest of the junk but I thought it hasn't seen the light of day for probably 40 years, it needs a new life. The plan would be to get a rack for it and use it as a country tourer. The youtuber Velocipedia is my inspiration.

The chrome is pretty rusted, the double whitewall tires are shot, and it'll need some cables. The paint has some rust freckles, but with an oily rag polish it will look ok going down the road. The best part is, it has a nice Brooks leather saddle that cleaned up well.
Perusing the local ads, I found a womans' Robin Hood 3 speed for $25. The chrome looks good on it so I'm hoping it'll make a good donor bike.
I'll still need to source some cables, and I'd really like some nice gumwall tires. Where's a good online source for new parts and tires for these bikes.
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Old 02-14-22, 05:51 AM
  #25721  
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
nlerner 's instructions are bang on.....a couple of other hacks that I tried (successfully) were: I used a cut down brass spoke nipple for the end (it fit in the brake arm perfectly and I have plenty of them lying around), and after inserting the cable but before soldering I "peened" over the cable end (more like spread it a bit) to form a slightly larger diameter that then took on solder. This is also an old motorcycle trick to help ensure a strong connection for brakes. I have no idea if true but I like to think the threads inside the nipple took on a bit more solder and created an even stronger wedge.
The factory ends on most cables don't seem to be lead, maybe zinc or some other alloy?
While I've made or repaired a few motorcycle throttle cables I've not tried it for brake cables.
My thought is that there's far less force on a cable end that's only lifting a throttle vs one that's applying brakes by way of increased leverage,
I think I'd prefer a solder over a crimp type of end.
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Old 02-14-22, 06:22 AM
  #25722  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak View Post
Is there a tutorial somewhere how to make a cable with two soldered ends for these old English bikes.
Lots of them out there for motorcycle cables.
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Old 02-14-22, 06:54 AM
  #25723  
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I bought a hand full of double end cables for $1 ea when Ben's was having a warehouse sale.
They had various sizes for ladies/gents/F/R, not a lot of choice for housing color as far as OEM vintage though.

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Old 02-14-22, 07:40 AM
  #25724  
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Originally Posted by swampyankee2 View Post
I hate to double post but I didn't realize a dedicated thread existed so I thought I'd repost it in the appropriate place:
When we were cleaning out our new-to-us house I dragged an old Raleigh Sports out of the cellar. Its's a '72 by the hub date. I could've chucked in the bin with the rest of the junk but I thought it hasn't seen the light of day for probably 40 years, it needs a new life. The plan would be to get a rack for it and use it as a country tourer. The youtuber Velocipedia is my inspiration.

The chrome is pretty rusted, the double whitewall tires are shot, and it'll need some cables. The paint has some rust freckles, but with an oily rag polish it will look ok going down the road. The best part is, it has a nice Brooks leather saddle that cleaned up well.
Perusing the local ads, I found a womans' Robin Hood 3 speed for $25. The chrome looks good on it so I'm hoping it'll make a good donor bike.
I'll still need to source some cables, and I'd really like some nice gumwall tires. Where's a good online source for new parts and tires for these bikes.
The Robin Hood will be a fine parts bikes. The tires? You'll have to search for those by yourself because of supply issues especially gumwalls. Try Harris Cyclery maybe? I've never ordered wire bead tires online because of shipping costs in Canada. Never really had to either. Cables are standard fare but keep all the original ferrules, housings from both bikes as well as clamps, cable stops etc. Keep the bottom bracket too...they are proprietary to Raleighs.
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Old 02-14-22, 11:24 AM
  #25725  
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1950 Dawes

1950 Dawes 23" Reynolds 531 Tubing, Dunlop EA1 40 spoke rim laced to SA AW dated 50. Unfortunately front wheel is 70s EA3 replacement. 7985 miles on the odo. The brake levers indicate it would have originally had drop bars. No model name.


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