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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 02-22-22, 07:29 AM
  #25751  
John D
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Originally Posted by Chuck M View Post
What the hell is going on with the water bottle on the seat tube?
Airzound horn, you pump it up with air to operate. The tubing goes up the horn and button on the handlebar.

Last edited by John D; 02-22-22 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Add text
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Old 02-22-22, 07:31 AM
  #25752  
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You can see the blue button on the the other side of the stem, and the black horn below.
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Old 02-22-22, 07:37 AM
  #25753  
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I see a double chainset, and one of the better kickstands in the lower right of that box. I just wonder if the shingles are part of the package deal, given the assortment. Definitely worth the ask.

Last edited by BFisher; 02-22-22 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 02-22-22, 07:41 AM
  #25754  
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Originally Posted by BFisher View Post
I see a double chainset, and one of the better kickstands in the lower right of that box. I just wonder of the shingles are part of the package deal, given the assortment. Definitely worth the ask.
The ad has been taken down. Unfortunate, since I'm 10 minutes away and could use that fender, if not other parts as well.
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Old 02-22-22, 10:07 AM
  #25755  
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Came in the mail recently: a bit of old advertising material for a 1950s diamond frame Schwinn World. These English-style bikes were "lightweights" in the Schwinn line up.

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Old 02-22-22, 04:49 PM
  #25756  
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983 View Post
I'm also a big fan of LED conversions for vintage and retro lights. I have a B&M Lumotec Classic and dynohub on one bike, and another has the Reflectalite conversion for dynohub and original lamps to LED. I also have a bunch of bikes with the Soma/Kiley retro headlight and taillight LEDs that take batteries. Unless you are set on going dead-stock with original bulbs and all, the modern LED conversions and bulbs offer a huge improvement in being able to see and being able to have cars see you on the road. This is a big deal not just if you ride at night, but also in the morning and in the evening when there's daylight, but you really want to stand out so drivers can see you.
I'm using Nicelite NL432 front and NL437R rear LED bulbs in my 51 Rudge's Dynohub system. I highly recommend them. Since the 437R is actually red, it makes up for the faded plastic lens on the rear lamp. Quite bright too. I didn't install a capacitor to smooth out the strobe effect. It's not noticeable at speed, but walking the bike up a hill on a dark country road at night can be a bit...trippy.
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Old 02-22-22, 09:30 PM
  #25757  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
I'm using Nicelite NL432 front and NL437R rear LED bulbs in my 51 Rudge's Dynohub system. I highly recommend them. Since the 437R is actually red, it makes up for the faded plastic lens on the rear lamp. Quite bright too. I didn't install a capacitor to smooth out the strobe effect. It's not noticeable at speed, but walking the bike up a hill on a dark country road at night can be a bit...trippy.
That's the one, it's the NL432 bulb I'm using as well. I ordered it through the Reflectalite bulb finder.

https://www.reflectalite.com/LEDpage.html
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Last edited by SirMike1983; 02-22-22 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 02-25-22, 02:23 PM
  #25758  
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My old bike!

hey nlerner,
did you buy that from me?
do you know where it is now? Iíd love to have it again.
thanks

Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
I can confirm that both bikes have EA3--26 x 1 3/8" wheels (with the men's rear, at least, not original) with Dunlop tires all around. Perhaps the originals?!

I find it interesting, too, that while the men's frame certainly has more slack angles than later models, they are still a fair amount more upright than an early 1930s Sports that I had for a while:

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Old 02-25-22, 03:29 PM
  #25759  
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Originally Posted by Lumpy Jones View Post
hey nlerner,
did you buy that from me?
do you know where it is now? Iíd love to have it again.
thanks
I had a two different 1930s Sports right around them. One came from a local friend, and the other I bought from a CL seller in NH. Was that you?
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Old 02-25-22, 03:52 PM
  #25760  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
I had a two different 1930s Sports right around them. One came from a local friend, and the other I bought from a CL seller in NH. Was that you?
ya, that was me. Who has it now?
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Old 02-25-22, 04:13 PM
  #25761  
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Rex Classique


I bought these maybe 15 years ago new in the box. 1974 date code on the SA rear hubs. Unusual, in that they were built for 27" wheels. The tall one is mine. 25" frame.
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Old 02-26-22, 06:01 AM
  #25762  
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Retroman57, they are in such great condition. Are those saddles Brooks Flyer S?

Last edited by 1989Pre; 02-26-22 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 02-26-22, 02:54 PM
  #25763  
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Elswick

Just took the Elswick light roadster out for a spin. Thought I would take some photos while I have it out in the sun.

A shout-out to SirMike. The Chain case fits and really dresses up the bike.
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Old 02-26-22, 03:00 PM
  #25764  
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Here are some photos.




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Old 02-26-22, 10:03 PM
  #25765  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak View Post
Here are some photos.




Glad it fits. Looks like it came together as a really nice bike.
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Old 02-28-22, 11:26 AM
  #25766  
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Wrights saddles
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Old 02-28-22, 12:42 PM
  #25767  
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I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
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Old 02-28-22, 01:01 PM
  #25768  
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Originally Posted by aoeuidhtns View Post
I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
Modern pedals are often sold with washers (spacers) for exactly this purpose. If you can find a set of those you'll be all set.
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Old 02-28-22, 01:20 PM
  #25769  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
Modern pedals are often sold with washers (spacers) for exactly this purpose. If you can find a set of those you'll be all set.
Beat me to it. I would also check the chain guard to verify it is not bent outward a little bit. Those VO pedals are nice, shouldn't have to grind them.
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Old 02-28-22, 06:16 PM
  #25770  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
Modern pedals are often sold with washers (spacers) for exactly this purpose. If you can find a set of those you'll be all set.
Pedal washers acquired, and problem solved! I feel like a bit of an idiot for not realizing that I could use a washer. I appreciate the advice!
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Old 02-28-22, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by retroman57 View Post
Wrights saddles
Is the above intended as a question for me?

Actually the saddle on the Elswick is a Brooks b66s, old style, no laces. Which was pretty dear, more than the rest of the bike.

I have a Wrights on another Roadster, thatís rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it?

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Old 02-28-22, 08:56 PM
  #25772  
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Wrights

Twas an answer to post 25761
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Old 03-01-22, 11:59 AM
  #25773  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak View Post
I have a Wrights on another Roadster, thatís rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it?

Talk to Rudy (rhm) www.rhmsaddles.com He does fabulous work.
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Old 03-02-22, 01:53 PM
  #25774  
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Got it. Rather than a "battery pack" you modified them to insert in the D battery slots and just remove & recharge.
I did put in a screw base LED flashlight bulb in one but as you say the directionality doesn't make good use of the reflector and voltage. I basically use it for the "vintage accessory look" and a "be seen" light and mount a magicshine when riding at night where I need to actually see.
I went ahead and made up a pair of battery adapters for the Elite battery powered light.
I used two lengths of 1" PVC conduit and two pieces of schedule 10 PVC in the middle with two 12mm extentions set in some rubber hose to make a pair of 18500 batteries fit lengthwise.
Light wise, with the homemade LED bulb its no brighter but the run time is seemingly forever. I left it on all day yesterday and all night and it was still lit this afternoon. The batteries were barely down any at all. Both batteries were still over 3.9v. (They came off the charger at 4.2v).
No matter what though, the light is brighter now than with the original bulb and two D cells, and its longevity is a lot better but the bulb really isn't taking advantage of the reflector.





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Old 03-03-22, 02:36 PM
  #25775  
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Looking for a chainguard or chaincase for a Raleigh DL-1: 28 inch wheels. Looking for the guard in Superbe Green (dark green - kind of like "British racing green").

Color:



Willing to purchase or trade (I have mostly old 3-speed parts for Raleighs and Schwinns).
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