For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
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I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
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Beat me to it. I would also check the chain guard to verify it is not bent outward a little bit. Those VO pedals are nice, shouldn't have to grind them.
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Pedal washers acquired, and problem solved! I feel like a bit of an idiot for not realizing that I could use a washer. I appreciate the advice!
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Is the above intended as a question for me?
Actually the saddle on the Elswick is a Brooks b66s, old style, no laces. Which was pretty dear, more than the rest of the bike.
I have a Wrights on another Roadster, that’s rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it?

Actually the saddle on the Elswick is a Brooks b66s, old style, no laces. Which was pretty dear, more than the rest of the bike.
I have a Wrights on another Roadster, that’s rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it?


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Wrights
Twas an answer to post 25761
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Got it. Rather than a "battery pack" you modified them to insert in the D battery slots and just remove & recharge.
I did put in a screw base LED flashlight bulb in one but as you say the directionality doesn't make good use of the reflector and voltage. I basically use it for the "vintage accessory look" and a "be seen" light and mount a magicshine when riding at night where I need to actually see.
I did put in a screw base LED flashlight bulb in one but as you say the directionality doesn't make good use of the reflector and voltage. I basically use it for the "vintage accessory look" and a "be seen" light and mount a magicshine when riding at night where I need to actually see.
I used two lengths of 1" PVC conduit and two pieces of schedule 10 PVC in the middle with two 12mm extentions set in some rubber hose to make a pair of 18500 batteries fit lengthwise.
Light wise, with the homemade LED bulb its no brighter but the run time is seemingly forever. I left it on all day yesterday and all night and it was still lit this afternoon. The batteries were barely down any at all. Both batteries were still over 3.9v. (They came off the charger at 4.2v).
No matter what though, the light is brighter now than with the original bulb and two D cells, and its longevity is a lot better but the bulb really isn't taking advantage of the reflector.





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Looking for a chainguard or chaincase for a Raleigh DL-1: 28 inch wheels. Looking for the guard in Superbe Green (dark green - kind of like "British racing green").
Color:

Willing to purchase or trade (I have mostly old 3-speed parts for Raleighs and Schwinns).
Color:

Willing to purchase or trade (I have mostly old 3-speed parts for Raleighs and Schwinns).
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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One of these days I'll get around to going over it. I did ride it a few times, its geared low and its light compared to most 3 speeds. Surprisingly I can ride it fairly easily just by raising the saddle up about 4" or so. Mine has a longer stem, alloy bars with the old white plastic levers and grips that came on the UO-18 models then.
I was going to give it a set of 27x1 3/8" tires, full length fenders, and a rear rack and make it sort of a spare or guest bike.
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I gave this to a friend and when the gears were too tall for him we changed the rear sprocket and crank. Cottered Stronglight with a 42 in front and 20 in the rear.


A cotter press was so useful on this.


A cotter press was so useful on this.
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With 44/20 gearing in low that thing probably pulls like a tractor.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear.
With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear.
With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too.
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With 44/20 gearing in low that thing probably pulls like a tractor.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear.
With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear.
With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too.

course is set up 42-21 with 700c wheels so 40.5-54-72. you sacrifice top end but I'm in no hurry. If I am I take another bike. This way I can climb easily from the riverfront to the bluff where I live.
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My triumph pulls stumps as well.

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Did some more cleaning up and derusting on Bob the 72 Raleigh Sports today. Front rim cleaned up not to bad but there's nasty patch of pealing chrome on the brake shoe side. I may end up having to source some better rims. I have a pair from a Robin Hood parts bike but they are Endrick style rather than the Westwood style on the Raleigh.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road.
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Did some more cleaning up and derusting on Bob the 72 Raleigh Sports today. Front rim cleaned up not to bad but there's nasty patch of pealing chrome on the brake shoe side. I may end up having to source some better rims. I have a pair from a Robin Hood parts bike but they are Endrick style rather than the Westwood style on the Raleigh.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road.
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$25 Fleet Wing in DE. Beach location might mean corrosion.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...77605179749717
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...77605179749717

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This looks like a very lonely bicycle. It will need a lot of Tender Loving Care to feel better.
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The newest/oldest member of the 3 speed fleet.

The badge says Huffy but the frame says Raleigh Sports. It has a weldment for a chain case and a BB oiler, so that dates the frame to early to mid fifties. Wheels are replacements from god knows when, though the AW is date 5/65. The chain guard and front fender are off an American built Huffy Sportsmen my dad pulled out of the trash.
This is what it looked like when I got it.

The badge says Huffy but the frame says Raleigh Sports. It has a weldment for a chain case and a BB oiler, so that dates the frame to early to mid fifties. Wheels are replacements from god knows when, though the AW is date 5/65. The chain guard and front fender are off an American built Huffy Sportsmen my dad pulled out of the trash.
This is what it looked like when I got it.

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The newest/oldest member of the 3 speed fleet.

The badge says Huffy but the frame says Raleigh Sports. It has a weldment for a chain case and a BB oiler, so that dates the frame to early to mid fifties. Wheels are replacements from god knows when, though the AW is date 5/65. The chain guard and front fender are off an American built Huffy Sportsmen my dad pulled out of the trash.
This is what it looked like when I got it.


The badge says Huffy but the frame says Raleigh Sports. It has a weldment for a chain case and a BB oiler, so that dates the frame to early to mid fifties. Wheels are replacements from god knows when, though the AW is date 5/65. The chain guard and front fender are off an American built Huffy Sportsmen my dad pulled out of the trash.
This is what it looked like when I got it.

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With the price of fuel these days, our commitment to two wheels makes more and more sence.
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The rest of your garage looks interesting as well.
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Anyone keen for the ultimate 650A rim upgrade?
https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/s...=shopify_email
https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/s...=shopify_email
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