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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 06-17-22, 02:57 PM
  #26176  
gster
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Slightly O.T.
Several rears ago I went to buy a Hercules (AMF) from a guy for $75.00
He also had one of these for sale for $8000 which I thought was a lot....

1966/67 Honda 450 the Black Bomber
This bike was listed today for $20,000.00!!
I've always wanted one but not a this price.....
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Old 06-17-22, 04:22 PM
  #26177  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
Slightly O.T.
Several rears ago I went to buy a Hercules (AMF) from a guy for $75.00
He also had one of these for sale for $8000 which I thought was a lot....

1966/67 Honda 450 the Black Bomber
This bike was listed today for $20,000.00!!
I've always wanted one but not a this price.....
This price guarantees the seller will be the last owner.
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Old 06-17-22, 07:56 PM
  #26178  
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A Robert Pirsig fan with too much money will buy that.
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Old 06-17-22, 08:20 PM
  #26179  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
A Robert Pirsig fan with too much money will buy that.
I think his bike was a Honda 305...
I'd like to re read that book.
I had one....
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Old 06-18-22, 04:25 AM
  #26180  
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@gster, Ah, you're right. But still in the same wheelhouse.

And you're right again, the discussion of Quality never gets tired in C&V.

Last edited by clubman; 06-18-22 at 01:36 PM. Reason: redundancy
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Old 06-18-22, 08:57 AM
  #26181  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
I doubt the chainline will be much of a problem since the SA hub allows you to adjust that. My concern would be if the BB has Raleigh threads, which might have something to say about the axle diameter of the BB.
The Raleigh threads are not a concern, because Iím installing with the same cup/cone design. The old cups can be reused because the bearing races are in good condition the TA spindle has a bearing width that matches that of the original races. I understand the SA hub has some adjustability, but it comes down to a match between the hub, the BB and the chainset.

Even if I canít make it work with this plan, I can always have one of my LBS rethread the BB to fit a modern BB. Prefer not to modify the frame, but itís not end of the world.
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Old 06-18-22, 09:01 AM
  #26182  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
@gster, Ah, you're right. But still in the same wheelhouse.

And you're right, the discussion of Quality never gets tired in C&V.
Iíve always wanted a Norton, after reading that book!

As far as Quality, these days Iím a Safety consultant, so Ö maybe a few nuggets of insight dropped off the tree!
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Old 06-18-22, 09:03 AM
  #26183  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
I think his bike was a Honda 305...
I'd like to re read that book.
I had one....
I always thought it was a 350 Ö
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Old 06-18-22, 09:06 AM
  #26184  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
I always thought it was a 350 Ö
1966 Honda 305 Super Hawk
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smith...ian-180973836/
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Old 06-18-22, 09:53 AM
  #26185  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
Ah, the old 305 Super Hawk. I remember lusting after those when I was a kid.
Somebody made a fairly optimistic claim that it had a top speed of 104?
I dunno, I suppose maybe?
Honda 305 Super Hawk wiki
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Old 06-18-22, 12:02 PM
  #26186  
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Count me as another die hard Pirsig fan - I even read Lila.....
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Old 06-18-22, 02:38 PM
  #26187  
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The Honda Black Bomber had a fragile valve problem. Generally if they are still running after 2000 miles they have a chance to keep going. For a while. Seems to me there's a fix for it IIRC that was handed down in the last 30 years or so. The 305 Super Hawk was indeed capable of 105 mph if you laid down on the tank- the engine could rev nearly 10,000 rpm and didn't have the reliability issue of its bigger brother.
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Old 06-19-22, 02:53 PM
  #26188  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
The Honda Black Bomber had a fragile valve problem. Generally if they are still running after 2000 miles they have a chance to keep going. For a while. Seems to me there's a fix for it IIRC that was handed down in the last 30 years or so. The 305 Super Hawk was indeed capable of 105 mph if you laid down on the tank- the engine could rev nearly 10,000 rpm and didn't have the reliability issue of its bigger brother.
I think that's even in the owners manual...
an illustration of a guy lying flat on the tank (superman style)
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Old 06-20-22, 07:06 AM
  #26189  
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"Old beach cruiser." No price listed beyond the $1 in the title so get out to Long Island and grab it.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...28675371684548

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Old 06-20-22, 10:14 AM
  #26190  
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I've known intellectually that flat repair on rod brake bikes was more difficult. The value stem came off when pumping up the rear tire on the newish (to me) Roadster. I now know on a very real level that it is actually a total freaking PITA. It doesn't help a bit when the threads on one of the brake pads strips and will need to be cut off when I find a replacement. .So, where is the best place to get a pair of side post brake pads? My amazon searches have been fruitless.
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Old 06-20-22, 10:36 AM
  #26191  
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Originally Posted by pfaustus View Post
I've known intellectually that flat repair on rod brake bikes was more difficult. The value stem came off when pumping up the rear tire on the newish (to me) Roadster. I now know on a very real level that it is actually a total freaking PITA. It doesn't help a bit when the threads on one of the brake pads strips and will need to be cut off when I find a replacement. .So, where is the best place to get a pair of side post brake pads? My amazon searches have been fruitless.
I've done pretty well on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/23348756806...MAAOSwLIVePHiR

The brake pads are mounted to the brake stirrup. Instead of removing the pads, if things are set up right you squeeze the stirrup a bit and drop it away, then it can be seperated a bit to allow the wheel to come free. At least on my 1940 Royal Enfield that's how it works.
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Old 06-20-22, 08:56 PM
  #26192  
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Originally Posted by pfaustus View Post
I've known intellectually that flat repair on rod brake bikes was more difficult. The value stem came off when pumping up the rear tire on the newish (to me) Roadster. I now know on a very real level that it is actually a total freaking PITA. It doesn't help a bit when the threads on one of the brake pads strips and will need to be cut off when I find a replacement. .So, where is the best place to get a pair of side post brake pads? My amazon searches have been fruitless.
I bought a few pairs in Mexico last year......
I know that doesn't really help
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Old 06-21-22, 05:09 PM
  #26193  
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Wow...do you have to cut down the tree to take the bike away??


[QUOTE=gster;22486819]
Originally Posted by Tyres View Post
The ad for it says
"Tires hold air..."
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Old 06-21-22, 05:15 PM
  #26194  
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I wrote it into my book...will try to go.


Originally Posted by browngw View Post
Time is quickly approaching for the re-located CVBS. Excited to bring some stuff to sell and hopefully find some great project material. Burford is just a few miles west of Brantford and not far off HWY 403.
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Old 06-26-22, 01:45 PM
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Classy ladies' Raleigh for $250 in NY.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...62595471366304

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Old 06-27-22, 10:48 AM
  #26196  
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1970 Raleigh Twenty folding bicycle. Bought it at a car swap meet last August for $35, and it was in rough shape.


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Old 06-27-22, 11:27 AM
  #26197  
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I have hit critical mass on 3 Spds.

So, I need to start riding them. Still can't post pics. This my Bike Forum eighth post (Two more, and I can post pics.).

This forum is probably not the best for what I want? I would like to set up local rides for 3 spd IGH bikes? Most rides would be short, of a social (no Raleigh Sports hammer fests) nature, and mechanically survivable. Performance riding, not a goal.

Took my recently overhauled, for functionality, 1973 Raleigh Sport, for a 12 mile ride last Saturday. Flat front tire, and 50 year old handle bar stem bolt broke to add to the adventure. I had a tube, 15mm cone wrench, 14mm open wrench, and did need tire levers to get the new E.R.T.O. 590 tire off the steel rim. Have to love the lack of axle locknuts and the smooth cone. Did 8 miles holding the real steel handlebars at the stem, and front brake lever. Even braved a successful standing low gear climb before the handlebars decided to free themselves.

My local area is Baltimore-Annapolis, MD. Would like to ride the local trails, mostly the BWI loop as a 3 spd IGH test track. I know from the local shop I frequent, there are many vintage 3 spds about. Months ago ran into a woman with her husband on the the B&A proudly piloting her vintage 3 spd. I was allowed to inspect the Herons for eyes. They did not have them. My crankset Herons on the 73 Sport does not have them, but the OEM lantern bracket on the the stem does.
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Old 06-27-22, 11:36 AM
  #26198  
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Originally Posted by steve21108 View Post
So, I need to start riding them. Still can't post pics. This my Bike Forum eighth post (Two more, and I can post pics.).

Took my recently overhauled, for functionality, 1973 Raleigh Sport, for a 12 mile ride last Saturday. Flat front tire, and 50 year old handle bar stem bolt broke to add to the adventure. I had a tube, 15mm cone wrench, 14mm open wrench, and did need tire levers to get the new E.R.T.O. 590 tire off the steel rim. Have to love the lack of axle locknuts and the smooth cone. Did 8 miles holding the real steel handlebars at the stem, and front brake lever. Even braved a successful standing low gear climb before the handlebars decided to free themselves.

My local area is Baltimore-Annapolis, MD. Would like to ride the local trails, mostly the BWI loop as a 3 spd IGH test track. I know from the local shop I frequent, there are many vintage 3 spds about. Months ago ran into a woman with her husband on the the B&A proudly piloting her vintage 3 spd. I was allowed to inspect the Herons for eyes. They did not have them. My crankset Herons on the 73 Sport does not have them, but the OEM lantern bracket on the the stem does.
The front axle has locknuts on only one side; the other side you're supposed to drive the cone as far on the axle as it will go and snug it a bit. In that way you only adjust the axle runout on one side.

The cranks seemed to have lost their eyes sometime in the 1960s. They were certainly gone by 1972. Similarly, the lines on the SA AW hub were introduced in 1972 as well. If you want a metal shifter cable stop or pulley as a nice reliability upgrade for your bike, contact jon@gentlemancyclist.com Raleigh went to plastic parts for these sometime in the 1960s.
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Old 06-27-22, 02:57 PM
  #26199  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
The front axle has locknuts on only one side; the other side you're supposed to drive the cone as far on the axle as it will go and snug it a bit. In that way you only adjust the axle runout on one side.
Locknuts? Most of mine have wrench flats on the left (non-drive side) cone. Tighten the right one as far as it will go; there's a stop on the axle. Adjust the cone in the fork--the tension of the fork blades and the axle nuts keeps the cones in place.
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Old 06-28-22, 11:44 AM
  #26200  
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Originally Posted by tjfastback66 View Post
1970 Raleigh Twenty folding bicycle. Bought it at a car swap meet last August for $35, and it was in rough shape.


Hello,

Did you recently purchase the handlebar/stem combination?

Nonetheless, looks great.

Mirfi
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