Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-08-22, 12:31 PM
  #26226  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,663

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe Frankenbike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times in 26 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
That's an old, pre-Raleigh, Hercules. Looks nice.
gna is offline  
Old 07-08-22, 01:26 PM
  #26227  
bamboobike4
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,072
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 557 Times in 328 Posts
So, I'm in a bike shop and this teenager comes out of the back....

Pushing his 1970 Sports, looked like showroom condition. I had to comment, and he's looking for the pins to re-attach his head badge. Beautiful green with gold decals. Dyno front hub. He got it from his father and was not sure the year, but it was a 60cm and way too big for him. No matter, it was his and he rode it. I struck up a conversation and he pulls out his phone to show a soft mint green Sprint? with matching frame pump, also with what looked like an OEM bottle dyno on the rear.

There's hope for this world.

So, I directed him here, his mom took down the bikeforums.net info and he's looking for the mounting pins/rivets, for his headbadge. I told him there may be people that can help. The only bike swap that really specializes in these parts was already held this year in Springfield (MO).
bamboobike4 is offline  
Old 07-08-22, 02:00 PM
  #26228  
clubman 
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,300

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2114 Post(s)
Liked 1,510 Times in 967 Posts
Originally Posted by gna View Post
That's an old, pre-Raleigh, Hercules. Looks nice.
Minty. Nice small women's frame.
clubman is offline  
Old 07-08-22, 06:07 PM
  #26229  
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,209

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1575 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 356 Posts
Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
You might want to be scouting around for a larger cog for the hub. Most of these bikes are overgeared and it seems to get worse the older I get.
Thump, the rear sprockets shrink with time and wear - kinda like underwear!
Road Fan is online now  
Likes For Road Fan:
Old 07-08-22, 06:12 PM
  #26230  
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,209

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1575 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times in 356 Posts
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
browngw : I like the root beer ones a lot. They really sparkle in the sun (I guess in "merry old" they didn't sparkle as much!)..... I did one for my sister a few years back and loved it while I had it.


I have a 1972 that same brown, but the finish is all dinged and a lot of the brown is rust. I'd like to fix it up for Mrs. Road Fan so she can ride the Lake Pepin with me next year. Maybe I'll just strip it down and have it powdered or may be I can get on Franklin's list for a delivery next January ...

Anybody know a source of good decals?
Road Fan is online now  
Old 07-09-22, 03:32 PM
  #26231  
dweenk 
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,888

Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups

Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 861 Post(s)
Liked 270 Times in 191 Posts
Originally Posted by bamboobike4 View Post
Pushing his 1970 Sports, looked like showroom condition. I had to comment, and he's looking for the pins to re-attach his head badge. Beautiful green with gold decals. Dyno front hub. He got it from his father and was not sure the year, but it was a 60cm and way too big for him. No matter, it was his and he rode it. I struck up a conversation and he pulls out his phone to show a soft mint green Sprint? with matching frame pump, also with what looked like an OEM bottle dyno on the rear.

There's hope for this world.

So, I directed him here, his mom took down the bikeforums.net info and he's looking for the mounting pins/rivets, for his headbadge. I told him there may be people that can help. The only bike swap that really specializes in these parts was already held this year in Springfield (MO).
I think I have some #2 screws that will work. He needs three and I can mail them for free. Give me the mailing address.
__________________
I hope...that all mankind will at length…have reason and sense enough to settle their differences without cutting throats. Ben Franklin
dweenk is offline  
Likes For dweenk:
Old 07-09-22, 05:57 PM
  #26232  
bamboobike4
Banned.
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,072
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 359 Post(s)
Liked 557 Times in 328 Posts
Originally Posted by dweenk View Post
I think I have some #2 screws that will work. He needs three and I can mail them for free. Give me the mailing address.
I’ll get it from the shop, Billy Goat Bicycles, then get in touch.
Awesome of you.
bamboobike4 is offline  
Old 07-10-22, 08:05 PM
  #26233  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,544

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1021 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Thump, the rear sprockets shrink with time and wear - kinda like underwear!
That explains a lot of things.
gster is offline  
Likes For gster:
Old 07-11-22, 08:36 AM
  #26234  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,663

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe Frankenbike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times in 26 Posts
Anyone know the part numbers for front hub axle cones?


I've got some pitted ones in a Twenty I'm working up for my daughter.
I have a lead that has many NOS Sturmey parts, but they have them organized by part number and don't know what they have without a part number.

Last edited by gna; 07-11-22 at 08:42 AM.
gna is offline  
Likes For gna:
Old 07-11-22, 09:37 AM
  #26235  
steve21108
Newbie
 
steve21108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Millersville, MD
Posts: 18

Bikes: Dunelt 3 Spd (hub date 1964); 2 Raleigh (early 70s) Grand Prix converted to SA AW; 76 Raleigh Rampar converted to SA AW; Raleigh Super Course fixed; Raysport; 2003 Trek XO1; Jamis Aurora; Jamis Expat; Bianchi Posts (S3X); 1985 Ross Mt Hood; Univega;

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Interesting post, and fantastic picture, but I would bet simply a part number would not help. OEM information lost to time, and tracking any remaining inventory would be hard. Is the hub marked SA? Measurements similar to what is on this page might lets the holder of the parts measure id them. (Tried to post the Wheels Manufacturing cone measuring link, but I still have not reached the magical 10 posts on Bikeforums.)

Would be best to salvage some from another hub, or chuck up the used cones and regrind the bearing surface with some carbon sandpaper on a dowel. Following the radius. Not sure how hard they are, but if pitted at least it would cost less? Not having any of my 20s around, and if that picture shows the actual cones, it looks like they also have the dropout recess. I know Union supplied Raleigh with many of their early 70s steel hubs. Not as high quality as the SA or Raleigh factory hubs that I have seen.
steve21108 is offline  
Old 07-11-22, 10:22 AM
  #26236  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,663

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe Frankenbike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times in 26 Posts
Originally Posted by steve21108 View Post
Interesting post, and fantastic picture, but I would bet simply a part number would not help. OEM information lost to time, and tracking any remaining inventory would be hard. Is the hub marked SA? Measurements similar to what is on this page might lets the holder of the parts measure id them. (Tried to post the Wheels Manufacturing cone measuring link, but I still have not reached the magical 10 posts on Bikeforums.)

Would be best to salvage some from another hub, or chuck up the used cones and regrind the bearing surface with some carbon sandpaper on a dowel. Following the radius. Not sure how hard they are, but if pitted at least it would cost less? Not having any of my 20s around, and if that picture shows the actual cones, it looks like they also have the dropout recess. I know Union supplied Raleigh with many of their early 70s steel hubs. Not as high quality as the SA or Raleigh factory hubs that I have seen.
I stole that picture from an old thread. Not from my bike, but just about every Raleigh 3 speed I've seen has similar cones with raised ring w/o locknuts.

I could buy another front wheel--I've bought several over the years just for the cones--but I'd prefer not to buy any more wheels.

They have parts in boxes--they're not going to measure anything. If I need a pawl spring, I tell them HSA-120 and they say yes or no. I need a number for the cones. Kurt's Headbadge page (https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_sp_1_P2.html) has some old numbers, but none of them work...
gna is offline  
Old 07-11-22, 10:35 AM
  #26237  
markk900
Senior Member
 
markk900's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,393
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 375 Post(s)
Liked 374 Times in 197 Posts
gna : not sure if these are for your hub but better than guessing.....


markk900 is offline  
Old 07-11-22, 10:43 AM
  #26238  
markk900
Senior Member
 
markk900's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,393
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 375 Post(s)
Liked 374 Times in 197 Posts
Here's the reference picture as well, however not sure it helps too much.....




markk900 is offline  
Old 07-14-22, 06:06 PM
  #26239  
Chesterton
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
Well, I bought a 1975 Raleigh Sports off eBay. The hub is stamped March 1974, frame serial number says May 1975, made in Handsworth (Birmingham). The shifter is still the clear cover version that would go with a 1974 hub. UPS dropped the box on the side or ran it over with a forklift or something, and the hub indicator chain and spindle were mangled and had to be replaced, but happily there was no other damage. The bike shop folks looked it over and made sure everything was tuned up. Everything is generally in great condition, very clean. I bet it wasn't ridden very much at all.

I'll probably want to get a slightly larger cog; the current one is 17t. I'll put Kool Stop Continental brake pads on and change the tires eventually. I'm thinking down the road I might get a bottle dynamo and move over the lights I had on my Pashley Roadster. Any recommendations on bottle dynamo models? And has anyone managed to somehow mount a modern headlight using the existing heron bracket?

I've only taken it around the block so far, and I still have to tweak the saddle and handlebar positions, but it's a lot of fun to ride. Much zippier than my Roadster was!



Chesterton is offline  
Likes For Chesterton:
Old 07-15-22, 10:56 AM
  #26240  
Unca_Sam
The dropped
 
Unca_Sam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,283

Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1653 Post(s)
Liked 923 Times in 636 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Well, I bought a 1975 Raleigh Sports off eBay. The hub is stamped March 1974, frame serial number says May 1975, made in Handsworth (Birmingham). The shifter is still the clear cover version that would go with a 1974 hub. UPS dropped the box on the side or ran it over with a forklift or something, and the hub indicator chain and spindle were mangled and had to be replaced, but happily there was no other damage. The bike shop folks looked it over and made sure everything was tuned up. Everything is generally in great condition, very clean. I bet it wasn't ridden very much at all.

I'll probably want to get a slightly larger cog; the current one is 17t. I'll put Kool Stop Continental brake pads on and change the tires eventually. I'm thinking down the road I might get a bottle dynamo and move over the lights I had on my Pashley Roadster. Any recommendations on bottle dynamo models? And has anyone managed to somehow mount a modern headlight using the existing heron bracket?

I've only taken it around the block so far, and I still have to tweak the saddle and handlebar positions, but it's a lot of fun to ride. Much zippier than my Roadster was!



Your Sports looks fantastic!
I've found that modernbike.com has a decent selection of SA parts for reasonable prices. I just saw a 20t chrome splined cog available, so you should be able to reduce that gearing.

As far as bottle dynamos go, you could check a bike coop free shop to see if they have some. The one I used to volunteer with before COVID had a milk crate full of bottle dynamos and lights. They'd probably pay you to take them, if they could. I get the charm of the bottle dynamo set, but I'm no fan of how poorly they function compared to battery lights. You get 1) dim light 2) only while moving, while the dynamo 3) adds a good bit of drag.

That said, I'm still considering trying an LED retrofit with standlight capacity utilizing the dynamo and existing fittings. I just have to decipher the electrical diagrams first.
Unca_Sam is offline  
Likes For Unca_Sam:
Old 07-15-22, 01:40 PM
  #26241  
nlerner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 15,893
Mentioned: 408 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3061 Post(s)
Liked 4,071 Times in 1,779 Posts
In terms of cogs, the chromed steel ones made for Shimano Nexus also have the S-A 3-spline pattern and are usually available for less than 10 USD:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32230971314...mis&media=COPY
nlerner is online now  
Old 07-15-22, 01:47 PM
  #26242  
52telecaster
ambulatory senior
 
52telecaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 4,829

Bikes: Bob Jackson World Tour, Falcon and lots of other bikes.

Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1460 Post(s)
Liked 1,680 Times in 846 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Well, I bought a 1975 Raleigh Sports off eBay. The hub is stamped March 1974, frame serial number says May 1975, made in Handsworth (Birmingham). The shifter is still the clear cover version that would go with a 1974 hub. UPS dropped the box on the side or ran it over with a forklift or something, and the hub indicator chain and spindle were mangled and had to be replaced, but happily there was no other damage. The bike shop folks looked it over and made sure everything was tuned up. Everything is generally in great condition, very clean. I bet it wasn't ridden very much at all.

I'll probably want to get a slightly larger cog; the current one is 17t. I'll put Kool Stop Continental brake pads on and change the tires eventually. I'm thinking down the road I might get a bottle dynamo and move over the lights I had on my Pashley Roadster. Any recommendations on bottle dynamo models? And has anyone managed to somehow mount a modern headlight using the existing heron bracket?

I've only taken it around the block so far, and I still have to tweak the saddle and handlebar positions, but it's a lot of fun to ride. Much zippier than my Roadster was!



Man that looks great!
52telecaster is offline  
Likes For 52telecaster:
Old 07-16-22, 03:06 PM
  #26243  
Chesterton
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
I raised and angled my saddle, and I tried to raise the handlebars but I couldn't get the stem to release. Is there a knack to this that I'm missing? I loosened the stem bolt and gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet but I couldn't get it to budge. It's weird because it was shipped to me with the stem out, and the bike shop greased it and installed it, so I don't understand why it would be seized up only a few days later.

I shouldn't need to loosen the nut on top of the light bracket, right? Isn't that the headset locknut?
Chesterton is offline  
Old 07-16-22, 03:37 PM
  #26244  
clubman 
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,300

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2114 Post(s)
Liked 1,510 Times in 967 Posts
You need only loosen the stem bolt. Makes me wonder if they did pull it and grease. Drizzle lubricant down the bolt hole and if that doesn't work, flip it upside down and do the underside. Also, a hammer with a block of hardwood is better than rubber.
clubman is offline  
Likes For clubman:
Old 07-16-22, 03:55 PM
  #26245  
Unca_Sam
The dropped
 
Unca_Sam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,283

Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1653 Post(s)
Liked 923 Times in 636 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
I raised and angled my saddle, and I tried to raise the handlebars but I couldn't get the stem to release. Is there a knack to this that I'm missing? I loosened the stem bolt and gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet but I couldn't get it to budge. It's weird because it was shipped to me with the stem out, and the bike shop greased it and installed it, so I don't understand why it would be seized up only a few days later.

I shouldn't need to loosen the nut on top of the light bracket, right? Isn't that the headset locknut?
I've had to whack stem bolts pretty good with a non-marring mallet once they're torqued properly. I understand your reluctance, but just give it a good, straight whack with the front wheel on the ground.
Unca_Sam is offline  
Old 07-16-22, 03:58 PM
  #26246  
Chesterton
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 197

Bikes: 1975 Raleigh Sports, Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, Yuba Mundo, Raleigh Sports (1970)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam View Post
I've had to whack stem bolts pretty good with a non-marring mallet once they're torqued properly. I understand your reluctance, but just give it a good, straight whack with the front wheel on the ground.
Yep, that's all it needed, just not being too gentle about it and giving it a solid whack with a rubber mallet. Got the saddle and bars raised and it rides great now. I think I will get a larger cog because I'm not using the high gear on the straight and level. The brakes shriek, but I'll try to deal with that when I put the Kool Stops on. Other than that I'm pretty happy about it.
Chesterton is offline  
Likes For Chesterton:
Old 07-16-22, 04:12 PM
  #26247  
clubman 
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,300

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 121 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2114 Post(s)
Liked 1,510 Times in 967 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
... The brakes shriek, but I'll try to deal with that when I put the Kool Stops on.
Toe-in!
clubman is offline  
Likes For clubman:
Old 07-16-22, 04:21 PM
  #26248  
thumpism 
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 8,330

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 61 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2396 Post(s)
Liked 1,586 Times in 1,103 Posts
Loop Turista for $50 in PA!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...34878137398811

thumpism is offline  
Old 07-17-22, 06:26 AM
  #26249  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,544

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1021 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
Originally Posted by Chesterton View Post
Yep, that's all it needed, just not being too gentle about it and giving it a solid whack with a rubber mallet. Got the saddle and bars raised and it rides great now. I think I will get a larger cog because I'm not using the high gear on the straight and level. The brakes shriek, but I'll try to deal with that when I put the Kool Stops on. Other than that I'm pretty happy about it.
I've swapped out the cogs on most of my bikes, 19,20 and 21T.
You'll need a new chain as well but it's worth it.
Nice lookin' bike.

Last edited by gster; 07-17-22 at 09:31 PM.
gster is offline  
Likes For gster:
Old 07-17-22, 09:40 PM
  #26250  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,544

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1021 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
This Pashley Roadster 3 speed came back the other day for some TLC...
The owner is not the hands on type.

I fixed a few things but what's interesting is the saddle.

It's an old Dunlop rubber? saddle. I included it in sale because the original leather saddle would have pushed the price too far,
It's very resiliant considering it's age. 60 years +
It must be real rubber.
When | sell a bike, I usually discount the price by $100 if I keep the leather saddle...

Last edited by gster; 07-18-22 at 05:41 AM.
gster is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.