For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I have a 1972 that same brown, but the finish is all dinged and a lot of the brown is rust. I'd like to fix it up for Mrs. Road Fan so she can ride the Lake Pepin with me next year. Maybe I'll just strip it down and have it powdered or may be I can get on Franklin's list for a delivery next January ...
Anybody know a source of good decals?
Anybody know a source of good decals?
Newbie
Hello all,
I had a vintage three speed bike that I found in a garden in Aachen Germany 25 years ago. It sported a "Willie Whilms" badge on the head tube. It was a lugged frame threespeed. I rode it until the hub exploded on the cobbles, but I've always wanted to find a photo of a similar bike for nostalgic reasons. I'm probably butchering the name, but does anyone recognize that?
-Adair
I had a vintage three speed bike that I found in a garden in Aachen Germany 25 years ago. It sported a "Willie Whilms" badge on the head tube. It was a lugged frame threespeed. I rode it until the hub exploded on the cobbles, but I've always wanted to find a photo of a similar bike for nostalgic reasons. I'm probably butchering the name, but does anyone recognize that?
-Adair
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A nice mixture of Schwinn and Raleigh utility bikes - photo from a few weeks ago. I don't think I ever posted it here.

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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Nice looking fleet, what a collection!
-Adair
-Adair
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I just picked up a dawes kingpin (3 speed SA) and went to service the hub but it now (didn't test before) makes a noise when freewheeling like a dry bearing scraping sound.
I had cleaned out, re-oiled, re-greased. The internals were completely dry but minimal surface rust on the inside shell. cone bearings look basically new and were full of relatively new grease, no scoring on the cones. I didn't see anything wrong inside. The bearings that sit under the driver were a golden colour, maybe lost their coatings?
Sidenote: the drive size cone was originally over 180 degrees wound out with lots of play in the cone, sheldon says 45-135 degrees. I have set the cones correctly.
I had cleaned out, re-oiled, re-greased. The internals were completely dry but minimal surface rust on the inside shell. cone bearings look basically new and were full of relatively new grease, no scoring on the cones. I didn't see anything wrong inside. The bearings that sit under the driver were a golden colour, maybe lost their coatings?
Sidenote: the drive size cone was originally over 180 degrees wound out with lots of play in the cone, sheldon says 45-135 degrees. I have set the cones correctly.
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[QUOTE=rich110;22585645]I just picked up a dawes kingpin (3 speed SA) and went to service the hub but it now (didn't test before) makes a noise when freewheeling like a dry bearing scraping sound.
Is there an ISO/ERTO size on the tires?
Is there an ISO/ERTO size on the tires?
Newbie
[QUOTE=steve21108;22585726]
37 440 500A
It makes the noise even with the wheel removed from the frame
It makes the noise even with the wheel removed from the frame
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[QUOTE=rich110;22585809][QUOTE=steve21108;22585726]
37 440 500A
It makes the noise even with the wheel removed from the frame[/QUOTE
Maybe because you adjusted the cones the oil seals are rubbing?
37 440 500A
It makes the noise even with the wheel removed from the frame[/QUOTE
Maybe because you adjusted the cones the oil seals are rubbing?
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TigerTom
TigerTom
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I just picked up a dawes kingpin (3 speed SA) and went to service the hub but it now (didn't test before) makes a noise when freewheeling like a dry bearing scraping sound.
I had cleaned out, re-oiled, re-greased. The internals were completely dry but minimal surface rust on the inside shell. cone bearings look basically new and were full of relatively new grease, no scoring on the cones. I didn't see anything wrong inside. The bearings that sit under the driver were a golden colour, maybe lost their coatings?
I had cleaned out, re-oiled, re-greased. The internals were completely dry but minimal surface rust on the inside shell. cone bearings look basically new and were full of relatively new grease, no scoring on the cones. I didn't see anything wrong inside. The bearings that sit under the driver were a golden colour, maybe lost their coatings?
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I have a random question; has any one put a drop bar on their Raleigh Sports 3-speed (step-through)? if so, how was the ride/handling?
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Jones Bars
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The three speeds are very similar geometry to several of Raleigh's ten speeds so you should be able to make that work. FWIW drop bars trade comfort for speed; if you are not racing in particular they really aren't the best type of bar to use, especially if you are riding long distances. I know this is likely controversial; the maker of the Jones bars (not surprisingly) insists that if you are not racing you've got no business using dropped bars. I'm not putting it so tersely...
Jones Bars
Jones Bars
I have various alt bars (one bike has Jones Bars) on my other bikes, so I'm a huge advocate for them.
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As purchased 8 years ago

As I ride it now. Taller stem and slightly wider bars.

Out on the road on some Sunday morning.
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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My 1971 Robin Hood Sports Model was sold in Canada with drop bars and remains that way still. It is the only 3speed I have that is used for longer rides (I have 2 others). Sometimes it is nice to get out of the wind a bit.

As purchased 8 years ago

As I ride it now. Taller stem and slightly wider bars.

Out on the road on some Sunday morning.

As purchased 8 years ago

As I ride it now. Taller stem and slightly wider bars.

Out on the road on some Sunday morning.
Last edited by Tiny_Valkyrie; 07-26-22 at 08:25 AM.
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Looks like a 23" ladies' Sports for $95 in PA.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...08839636730192
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...08839636730192

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1962 Rudge Sports
I posted some indoor pics of this bike, when I first got it, 21 months ago, but they were not very good pics, so I thought I'd add some better, outdoor ones. I got this bike for $75.00 on Craig's List, It was in great condition under all the dirt and debris. As you can see, there was a lot of spit and polish waiting to be un-earthed. The cog on the Sturmey rear hub had fallen off (lock ring had somehow gotten loose), so I learnt how to put it back on and did so.
The original, Brooks B72 saddle was just fine...until I tried to attach a saddle bag to it and a chunk about the size of a quarter fell off, complete with the bag loop. It now has a new Brooks Flyer S from Chain Reaction ($119.00 free shipping). I replaced the steel Wald kick-stand with a nice, aluminum Greenfield and put a period Adie ratchet bell (that I had) on it.
I had to fiddle with the shift cable adjuster as it enters the hub, and found I had to move the top-tube cable housing clamp forward a bit, but it shifts well now, even though it seems a tad tight when I shift into lowest gear. I unscrewed the front lamp cowl, to try to clean the lens (would not clean), but when I unscrewed the small screw, the cowl fell to the floor and destroyed the vintage bulb. Let me tell you, I was not pleased about that. I have since replaced both the bulb and the lens (N.O.S.), and the Dyno-hub works just fine. I leave it engaged all the time while riding.
I re-greased the Dyno-hub and the bearings on the Sturmey, and re-packed the bottom bracket, head-set and pedals. It appears that everything was original (except maybe the Regency tires), but I would like to replace the brake cables/housings at some point. I'd need the right length. The rear reflector had seen its better day, as it looked decayed on the side, so I replaced with N.O.S.
I will admit that for the head-set to be tight enough for there to be no play and loose enough to work freely, the headset binds a bit when the forks are turned to an extreme (50-60 degree) angle. I haven't found a way around that. I am pretty sure I used new bearings when I did the headset, but I'm only 80% sure.
I like the "hub-polisher" on the rear hub and the "flash treatment" of white on the front of the bike. Rudge was ahead of everybody, I think, with sloping fork crown in 1962. I bought the Carradice Pendle bag thinking it would be basically ornamental. Not a chance. I use it all the time for shopping and bringing food and water to the birds out in the back yard on my way out. I am actually using this bike for a (slow) club ride tomorrow, because one of my friends blew his knee out a couple weeks ago.
I've wanted a British 3-speed for a long time. I was 62 when I finally got one. The bike is wonderful. I get compliments on it, in public. It did fall over, once, from the spring wind, and some of the "R" is now missing on the n.d.s. I need to match a blanched, burnished gold to it.
If anyone needs a double-rail seat-post clamp, I'll send it to you.






The original, Brooks B72 saddle was just fine...until I tried to attach a saddle bag to it and a chunk about the size of a quarter fell off, complete with the bag loop. It now has a new Brooks Flyer S from Chain Reaction ($119.00 free shipping). I replaced the steel Wald kick-stand with a nice, aluminum Greenfield and put a period Adie ratchet bell (that I had) on it.
I had to fiddle with the shift cable adjuster as it enters the hub, and found I had to move the top-tube cable housing clamp forward a bit, but it shifts well now, even though it seems a tad tight when I shift into lowest gear. I unscrewed the front lamp cowl, to try to clean the lens (would not clean), but when I unscrewed the small screw, the cowl fell to the floor and destroyed the vintage bulb. Let me tell you, I was not pleased about that. I have since replaced both the bulb and the lens (N.O.S.), and the Dyno-hub works just fine. I leave it engaged all the time while riding.
I re-greased the Dyno-hub and the bearings on the Sturmey, and re-packed the bottom bracket, head-set and pedals. It appears that everything was original (except maybe the Regency tires), but I would like to replace the brake cables/housings at some point. I'd need the right length. The rear reflector had seen its better day, as it looked decayed on the side, so I replaced with N.O.S.
I will admit that for the head-set to be tight enough for there to be no play and loose enough to work freely, the headset binds a bit when the forks are turned to an extreme (50-60 degree) angle. I haven't found a way around that. I am pretty sure I used new bearings when I did the headset, but I'm only 80% sure.
I like the "hub-polisher" on the rear hub and the "flash treatment" of white on the front of the bike. Rudge was ahead of everybody, I think, with sloping fork crown in 1962. I bought the Carradice Pendle bag thinking it would be basically ornamental. Not a chance. I use it all the time for shopping and bringing food and water to the birds out in the back yard on my way out. I am actually using this bike for a (slow) club ride tomorrow, because one of my friends blew his knee out a couple weeks ago.
I've wanted a British 3-speed for a long time. I was 62 when I finally got one. The bike is wonderful. I get compliments on it, in public. It did fall over, once, from the spring wind, and some of the "R" is now missing on the n.d.s. I need to match a blanched, burnished gold to it.
If anyone needs a double-rail seat-post clamp, I'll send it to you.







Last edited by 1989Pre; 07-27-22 at 02:24 PM.
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I posted some indoor pics of this bike, when I first got it, 21 months ago, but they were not very good pics, so I thought I'd add some better, outdoor ones. I got this bike for $75.00 on Craig's List, It was in great condition under all the dirt and debris. As you can see, there was a lot of spit and polish waiting to be un-earthed. The cog on the Sturmey rear hub had fallen off (lock ring had somehow gotten loose), so I learnt how to put it back on and did so.
The original, Brooks B72 saddle was just fine...until I tried to attach a saddle bag to it and a chunk about the size of a quarter fell off, complete with the bag loop. It now has a new Brooks Flyer S from Chain Reaction ($119.00 free shipping). I replaced the steel Wald kick-stand with a nice, aluminum Greenfield and put a period Adie ratchet bell (that I had) on it.
I had to fiddle with the shift cable adjuster as it enters the hub, and found I had to move the top-tube cable housing clamp forward a bit, but it shifts well now, even though it seems a tad tight when I shift into lowest gear. I unscrewed the front lamp cowl, to try to clean the lens (would not clean), but when I unscrewed the small screw, the cowl fell to the floor and destroyed the vintage bulb. Let me tell you, I was not pleased about that. I have since replaced both the bulb and the lens (N.O.S.), and the Dyno-hub works just fine. I leave it engaged all the time while riding.
I re-greased the Dyno-hub and the bearings on the Sturmey, and re-packed the bottom bracket, head-set and pedals. It appears that everything was original (except maybe the Regency tires), but I would like to replace the brake cables/housings at some point. I'd need the right length. The rear reflector had seen its better day, as it looked decayed on the side, so I replaced with N.O.S.
I will admit that for the head-set to be tight enough for there to be no play and loose enough to work freely, the headset binds a bit when the forks are turned to an extreme (50-60 degree) angle. I haven't found a way around that. I am pretty sure I used new bearings when I did the headset, but I'm only 80% sure.
I like the "hub-polisher" on the rear hub and the "flash treatment" of white on the front of the bike. Rudge was ahead of everybody, I think, with sloping fork crown in 1962. I bought the Carradice Pendle bag thinking it would be basically ornamental. Not a chance. I use it all the time for shopping and bringing food and water to the birds out in the back yard on my way out. I am actually using this bike for a (slow) club ride tomorrow, because one of my friends blew his knee out a couple weeks ago.
I've wanted a British 3-speed for a long time. I was 62 when I finally got one. The bike is wonderful. I get compliments on it, in public. It did fall over, once, from the spring wind, and some of the "R" is now missing on the n.d.s. I need to match a blanched, burnished gold to it.
If anyone needs a double-rail seat-post clamp, I'll send it to you.







The original, Brooks B72 saddle was just fine...until I tried to attach a saddle bag to it and a chunk about the size of a quarter fell off, complete with the bag loop. It now has a new Brooks Flyer S from Chain Reaction ($119.00 free shipping). I replaced the steel Wald kick-stand with a nice, aluminum Greenfield and put a period Adie ratchet bell (that I had) on it.
I had to fiddle with the shift cable adjuster as it enters the hub, and found I had to move the top-tube cable housing clamp forward a bit, but it shifts well now, even though it seems a tad tight when I shift into lowest gear. I unscrewed the front lamp cowl, to try to clean the lens (would not clean), but when I unscrewed the small screw, the cowl fell to the floor and destroyed the vintage bulb. Let me tell you, I was not pleased about that. I have since replaced both the bulb and the lens (N.O.S.), and the Dyno-hub works just fine. I leave it engaged all the time while riding.
I re-greased the Dyno-hub and the bearings on the Sturmey, and re-packed the bottom bracket, head-set and pedals. It appears that everything was original (except maybe the Regency tires), but I would like to replace the brake cables/housings at some point. I'd need the right length. The rear reflector had seen its better day, as it looked decayed on the side, so I replaced with N.O.S.
I will admit that for the head-set to be tight enough for there to be no play and loose enough to work freely, the headset binds a bit when the forks are turned to an extreme (50-60 degree) angle. I haven't found a way around that. I am pretty sure I used new bearings when I did the headset, but I'm only 80% sure.
I like the "hub-polisher" on the rear hub and the "flash treatment" of white on the front of the bike. Rudge was ahead of everybody, I think, with sloping fork crown in 1962. I bought the Carradice Pendle bag thinking it would be basically ornamental. Not a chance. I use it all the time for shopping and bringing food and water to the birds out in the back yard on my way out. I am actually using this bike for a (slow) club ride tomorrow, because one of my friends blew his knee out a couple weeks ago.
I've wanted a British 3-speed for a long time. I was 62 when I finally got one. The bike is wonderful. I get compliments on it, in public. It did fall over, once, from the spring wind, and some of the "R" is now missing on the n.d.s. I need to match a blanched, burnished gold to it.
If anyone needs a double-rail seat-post clamp, I'll send it to you.







Count Orlok Member
Fixed up this Raleigh Twenty. My wife and daughter want to use it.

Laced up some aluminum rims I found at the recycler. I also replaced the seat tube with an aluminum one. Those two items lightened the bike quite a bit.
Repacked all of the bearings. The bottom bracket had what looked like wasps in it.
Replaced the 15T cog with a 17T cog. I bought some KMC chains on sale; they were blue.

Laced up some aluminum rims I found at the recycler. I also replaced the seat tube with an aluminum one. Those two items lightened the bike quite a bit.
Repacked all of the bearings. The bottom bracket had what looked like wasps in it.
Replaced the 15T cog with a 17T cog. I bought some KMC chains on sale; they were blue.
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This is at the co-op in the donation pile. I'd normally post in the co-op thread but figured it might be better appreciated here. It's a Hercules with a camelback frame and a CB Sturmey hub. Looks to be in good shape. I did not bring it home.

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1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.









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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
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1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.


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