For the love of English 3 speeds...
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1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.










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Re: Recent discussion on Drop Bar Sports, I found this in my files.

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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.
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It's a Sturmey Archer S5 5-speed hub. Non-drive lever controls the bell crank, drive side controls the clutch.
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Thanks for the kind words. The Sprite came to me in very good shape, which reduces the replacing parts and work that has to be done. It was nice to have a bike that could be totally gone over in just a few weekends instead of needing to be torn all the way down and built back up. I like to put big cogs on these S5 hubs because then you can have a very low gear for climbing, but still have enough top end for downhills.
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One of two Hercules 3-speeds I've got (along with a Raleigh Superbe and a Raleigh Sports). Now living in the very hilly Catskills has rendered them impractical..... so for now this one will do duty as an ornament on the porch.
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The dropped
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Tires on the door trim. A loop of black 'parachute' cord from a black screw-hook to the seat cluster, another loop from the head-tube to another black screw hook and finally a third loop that goes from one hook, around the head-tube, to the seat cluster, to the other hook... Hooks and cord all rated for much greater than the weight of the bike... Yeah, it's outside, but the porch/roof is enormous, so it's well protected from the elements.
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I'm new to the club. Two different bike enthusiasts gifted me "Raleigh" 3-speeds, a Huffy and a Royal Scot.
The Huffy is pristine and is going to an ex that is still dear to me. The Royal Scot is at the top of my queue for restorations. It's a keeper.

The Huffy is pristine and is going to an ex that is still dear to me. The Royal Scot is at the top of my queue for restorations. It's a keeper.


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A '78-81, and I'd suspect at least a few of the cable guides no longer exist on the top tube, given the clamps and the rust on the front of the top tube.
Might be a good platform for a custom if the plan involves a trip to the paint shop.
-Kurt
Might be a good platform for a custom if the plan involves a trip to the paint shop.
-Kurt
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Thanks for the kind words. The Sprite came to me in very good shape, which reduces the replacing parts and work that has to be done. It was nice to have a bike that could be totally gone over in just a few weekends instead of needing to be torn all the way down and built back up. I like to put big cogs on these S5 hubs because then you can have a very low gear for climbing, but still have enough top end for downhills.
I have a similar bike in Burgandy...
I added the throttle controls to mine

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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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All it takes is one shopper who needs the safety flag, the Berec taillight and the Pletscher to make a sale. I could use those brake levers to replace the clunky steel ones on my bike. I'll trade you my Berec taillight for 'em.
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Hi, here's what I hope is a new topic, but I apologize if it is old hat.
I'm rebuilding my 1952 Rudge Aero Special, a 27" Reynolds-framed drop bar bike made in Nottingham. Current stage is to install the H/S cups and the fork. I've been told the head tube IDs are to be 30.0 mm, and mine are (actually 29.97 mm, if I can believe my Harbor Freight digital caliper!). Also, Park Tool says the maximum allowed interference in such a press-fit installation is to be maximum 0.2 mm (not 0.20 mm for some reason).
My fixed cups have OD of 30.28 mm, so the interference is too great to use, if Park Tool is correct. Has anyone ever installed a HS with this much interference? The head tube is 531 with nicely brazed lugs and 70 years old. Should I go ahead and use these cups? They MIGHT be the ones which came out of the frame originally, actually I think they are, but I didn't mark them carefully when I pressed them out and put them in the parts cleaner.
Am I really at risk of cracking my head tube if I force these in, with a pretty decent HS press?
BTW, the bike frame size is about 54 or 55 cm c-c with 27" wheels. Overall geometry is long and laid back, a precursor to the Super Course and the International of 1971.
I'm rebuilding my 1952 Rudge Aero Special, a 27" Reynolds-framed drop bar bike made in Nottingham. Current stage is to install the H/S cups and the fork. I've been told the head tube IDs are to be 30.0 mm, and mine are (actually 29.97 mm, if I can believe my Harbor Freight digital caliper!). Also, Park Tool says the maximum allowed interference in such a press-fit installation is to be maximum 0.2 mm (not 0.20 mm for some reason).
My fixed cups have OD of 30.28 mm, so the interference is too great to use, if Park Tool is correct. Has anyone ever installed a HS with this much interference? The head tube is 531 with nicely brazed lugs and 70 years old. Should I go ahead and use these cups? They MIGHT be the ones which came out of the frame originally, actually I think they are, but I didn't mark them carefully when I pressed them out and put them in the parts cleaner.
Am I really at risk of cracking my head tube if I force these in, with a pretty decent HS press?
BTW, the bike frame size is about 54 or 55 cm c-c with 27" wheels. Overall geometry is long and laid back, a precursor to the Super Course and the International of 1971.
Last edited by Road Fan; 08-14-22 at 11:32 PM.
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I would be interested in seeing how the 3d printed reproductions work out. I like the look of the smaller shifters better than the later throttle type, but the original plastic ones were known for suspect durability. I wonder if a newer plastic or alternative material would make them more viable.
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I have a 1972 that same brown, but the finish is all dinged and a lot of the brown is rust. I'd like to fix it up for Mrs. Road Fan so she can ride the Lake Pepin with me next year. Maybe I'll just strip it down and have it powdered or may be I can get on Franklin's list for a delivery next January ...
Anybody know a source of good decals?
Anybody know a source of good decals?
(Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.)
Last edited by raleigh76; 08-15-22 at 07:11 PM.
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I just bought a set of decals off Ebay. My sports is a 1976 Canadian version, with the white seat tube decal which I couldn't find anywhere, but the rest match up.
(Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.)
(Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.)