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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 09-09-22, 07:29 PM
  #26376  
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Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
Presto!
I know that as the Modell C.
I was referring to one of these:

Esge Carrier
There are similar ones with a bend up before attaching to the seat stays.
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Old 09-09-22, 11:00 PM
  #26377  
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam View Post
Calling all Late 60's-Early 70's Raleigh Superbe Owners!

Would one of you provide a measurement from the rear eyelet to the brake bolt? I found a rack that has fixed mounting points, and my 21" 1969 Superbe is near where I bought it through my agreeable uncle, who is currently out of state. Yes, this request is odd, but it is still a great help for me. TIA!
On my 23" Sports, this measurement is about 383mm on both the earlier bikes with tubular brake bridges and the late-1970's models with Pletscher flat bridges.

YMMV for 21" frames. Can ask a neighbor who has more small Sports than he should (like me, he rides 23").

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Old 09-10-22, 09:56 AM
  #26378  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
On my 23" Sports, this measurement is about 383mm on both the earlier bikes with tubular brake bridges and the late-1970's models with Pletscher flat bridges.

YMMV for 21" frames. Can ask a neighbor who has more small Sports than he should (like me, he rides 23").

-Kurt
Thank you! I wish it was something different though... the same distance on the Tonard Brazing rack I had my eye on was 13" [per the seller]. The attachment points could work [though the top might not be level].
I don't think a smaller frame would affect eyelet to brake bridge distance much. The brakes have to reach the rims, so they're limited to that ~295mm radius. Admittedly, ~ ⅜" difference might be too much to try to bridge.

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Old 09-11-22, 08:33 AM
  #26379  
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Putting a WTB here where everyone who might have this may be able to see it: Seeking a pair of Lemon Yellow fenders and chainguard for a Raleigh Sports frameset

Originally Posted by Unca_Sam View Post
Thank you! I wish it was something different though... the same distance on the Tonard Brazing rack I had my eye on was 13" [per the seller]. The attachment points could work [though the top might not be level].
I don't think a smaller frame would affect eyelet to brake bridge distance much. The brakes have to reach the rims, so they're limited to that ~295mm radius. Admittedly, ~ ⅜" difference might be too much to try to bridge.
Seems a bit small. Is the rack stainless? If so, you might be able to get it lenghtened.

-Kurt
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Old 09-11-22, 07:01 PM
  #26380  
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I thought folks in this thread would find this particular Raleigh Sports that is for sale in Toronto of interest. Alas, it is 21" - if it were 23", I'd already be on my way to Toronto to get it, or ask @gster to facilitate. Looks like a mid-'50s bike with Canadian spec colours and a drop bar. Coincidentally, it is the same colour scheme as the '56 Sports with an SW that I bought my wife a few years back.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-comm...rts/1632514349




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Old 09-12-22, 08:46 AM
  #26381  
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Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
I thought folks in this thread would find this particular Raleigh Sports that is for sale in Toronto of interest. Alas, it is 21" - if it were 23", I'd already be on my way to Toronto to get it, or ask @gster to facilitate. Looks like a mid-'50s bike with Canadian spec colours and a drop bar. Coincidentally, it is the same colour scheme as the '56 Sports with an SW that I bought my wife a few years back.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-comm...rts/1632514349



I'm pretty sure I know the seller. I've bought a few bikes from him over the years and he even bought one back from me....Go figure...
Thankfully I am out of the country and am able to maintain my strict "No More Bikes" policy.
This also includes, cars, motorcycles, guitars, boats, comic books and any other stuff that I already have.
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Old 09-12-22, 10:14 AM
  #26382  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Putting a WTB here where everyone who might have this may be able to see it: Seeking a pair of Lemon Yellow fenders and chainguard for a Raleigh Sports frameset
I'm sure I've got a chainguard. White or brown? Pm with list of other items as well.
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Old 09-13-22, 01:54 PM
  #26383  
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Remembering the Queen

I thought I aught to take my Hercules Coronation edition out for a ride in honor of Queen Elizabeth’s 70 year reign.

I did a Pennsylvania Dutch tour to Intercourse and home again.


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Old 09-14-22, 05:19 PM
  #26384  
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$20 in NY.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...44303964116923

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Old 09-15-22, 07:08 AM
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Is it a Raleigh or a Norman?
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Old 09-16-22, 11:42 AM
  #26386  
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1980 Triumph....something

Hi everyone,

Recently I've been searching for a winter / bad weather commuter and errand-runner candidate that'll keep some of the salt nasties off of the Wasp this winter (it wears the 35mm studded winters), and figured I'd jump into the Raleigh Sports world again and have some cheapish fun. My last time here, I owned a very nice '50 Superbe that now belongs to cudak888

I wouldn't use a nicely original bike like my old Superb for this and that, so I set about finding an equivalent that I could mix and match parts on such that nobody would shed any tears. I DID find a '52ish Superbe in rusty condition about a six-hour round trip drive from Ottawa to just east of Montreal, and was about to pull the trigger when an oddity appeared in my searches. It was a 25 minute drive away, so that made the decision and I picked it up yesterday, and its a very interesting bicycle dating from the bitter end of Raleigh's lifespan of bicycle manufacturing under various marques and guises. The plan is to clean it up, install new Panaracer tires, cables, find a saddle (maybe an old B72 if someone here has a spare, or used B17), grease the usual bits, attach my panniers and get out on the road. I have a French 1950s flat bar that I'm going to use, with included brake levers to replace the rusty bits. The lamps work fine, despite the mess of wires. I'm going to install an LED bulb and clean up the lens cover.

PXL_20220916_163626604.MP

PXL_20220916_163324878.MP

PXL_20220916_163403430

PXL_20220916_163346213.MP

Hub date of September 1980. The GH6 in the front wheel is dated 1975. The lamps seem early '60s to me. I think this is a "what do we have in the parts bin, Frank?" sort of bike.

PXL_20220916_163428778

Can you believe that I didn't notice the non-drive side shifter and toggle chain until I was poking and prodding it later on? It's a Sturmey five-speeder! I've never played with one before.
PXL_20220916_163434770
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Old 09-16-22, 11:56 AM
  #26387  
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^ Great project! I think I read that the five speeds with a toggle chain on the NDS (as opposed to a push rod) can be a bit finicky to shift, but I've never had one myself to try. Lots of crusty goodness perfect for a winter commuter.
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Old 09-16-22, 12:11 PM
  #26388  
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If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.

Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods!

What's the rim drilling? I'm guessing 32 in front and 36 in the rear. If you can find a 36h Dynohub, you could go to aluminum EA3s. Technically, those centerpulls should even spare you from having to invest in Tektros too.

-Kurt
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Old 09-16-22, 01:58 PM
  #26389  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.

Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods!
-Kurt
Yeah, my first impression is that it's a 60s Triumph road bike frame that someone retrofitted as a IGH 3-speed. That fork crown detail seems pretty darn nice for a lowly 3-speed!
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Old 09-16-22, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Yeah, my first impression is that it's a 60s Triumph road bike frame that someone retrofitted as a IGH 3-speed. That fork crown detail seems pretty darn nice for a lowly 3-speed!
I have no doubt it started life as a 3 or 4-speed IGH, given the dropouts and the brazed-on pulley wheel, but it likely began life as an entry-level club bike or upgraded city bicycle, given the lamp bracket. I wouldn't be surprised if those flatter North Roads are original; they are what I'd expect to see for a slightly sportier - but factory - upright bar rig.

That's the standard fork crown seen on a gazillion Raleigh secondary brand bikes, it's just a prettier stamped crown cap. One of the casualties of TI's cost cutting.

-Kurt
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Old 09-16-22, 04:11 PM
  #26391  
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
^ Great project! I think I read that the five speeds with a toggle chain on the NDS (as opposed to a push rod) can be a bit finicky to shift, but I've never had one myself to try. Lots of crusty goodness perfect for a winter commuter.
Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Yeah, my first impression is that it's a 60s Triumph road bike frame that someone retrofitted as a IGH 3-speed. That fork crown detail seems pretty darn nice for a lowly 3-speed!
Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.

Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods!

What's the rim drilling? I'm guessing 32 in front and 36 in the rear. If you can find a 36h Dynohub, you could go to aluminum EA3s. Technically, those centerpulls should even spare you from having to invest in Tektros too.

-Kurt
Isn't it interesting? The braze-on for the pulley looks a bit of a bodge job, but otherwise it looks pretty good. The badge and the nicer fork crown detail were clues to me as well - along with the quality of the paint and the lack of evidence of any transfers, stickers, decals, or anything identifying the name apart from the badge. I've snooped around and the Sturmey Archer lamps are definitely early 1960s, so this bike has a history. The S5 was very sticky on first run, so sprayed some PB Blaster down the oil port, lubed the shifter, and started gently running it through the gears on the drive side. I exchanged the PB Blaster / WD40 in and out of the hub until it stopped looking orange and nasty. I don't think the hub ever had a service or hasn't had light oil in many years. Happily enough it came right back and all the gears run just fine, though the left side shifting is sticky (that cable is really rotten). I'll likely give it a medium service just to get some grease in there so that the oil doesn't all run out once in service.

I'll update here as I clean it up.
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Old 09-16-22, 04:13 PM
  #26392  
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Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
Isn't it interesting? The braze-on for the pulley looks very...not factory. The badge and the fork crown detail were clues to me as well - along with the quality of the paint and the lack of evidence of any transfers, stickers, decals, or anything identifying the name apart from the badge. I've snooped around and the Sturmey Archer lamps are definitely early 1960s, so this bike has a history. The S5 was very sticky, so sprayed some PB Blaster down the oil port, lubed the shifter, and started gently running it through the gears on the drive side. I exchanged the PB Blaster / WD40 in and out of the hub until it stopped looking orange. I don't think the hub ever had a service or has had light oil in many years. Happily enough it came right back and all the gears run just fine, though the left side shifting is sticky (that cable is really rotten).

I'll update here as I clean it up.
Might be worth it to give that S5 a complete disassembly just to get the worst of the gunk out. Not sure if it works in colder temps, but I've really taken a liking to 00 grease in them.

Would love to see that not-factory-looking braze on pulley wheel. The factory ones were pretty crude too, so I'm curious.

-Kurt
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Old 09-17-22, 02:16 PM
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Just got myself another pain in the project. It's a '75 Lemon Yellow Sports with a '74 serial. Going to give @Ged117's 650B idea a try with this, but with standard blackwall slicks.

Anyone happen to have a matching set of fenders and/or chainguard?




-Kurt
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Old 09-18-22, 02:16 AM
  #26394  
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My buddy sent the requested photo of his Raleigh Twenty. His wife's actually. It originally belonged to her mom and Leslie rode it during her college years in the '70s. This bike and the trusty Batavus I gave to Pat have hung in their various sheds and garages over the years ever since but have suddenly and surprisingly been returned to service.

Pat was a runner and played rugby and basketball for decades and his 72-year-old knees are ruined. He says he can barely walk but was surprised to discover that he can ride so has begun at this late date in order to get a little exercise. I always wanted to rescue this little bike from the rafters but now that it's being used by them I'm glad not to have it.


He mentioned that he needs a longer seatpost, so has anyone found a decent replacement with some extra length? I don't know the diameter and length of the stocker so don't know what to tell him to buy.
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Old 09-18-22, 07:21 AM
  #26395  
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Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
He mentioned that he needs a longer seatpost, so has anyone found a decent replacement with some extra length? I don't know the diameter and length of the stocker so don't know what to tell him to buy.
26.8 is the size you need, and this 450mm post ought to give him a bit more wiggle room for height.

https://www.porkchopbmx.com/bmx-bicy...m-long-ch.html

Post currently appears to be barely installed, FYI. DO NOT let him ride it like that!

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Old 09-18-22, 07:34 AM
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Both for $150 in OH.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...32875604993825

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Old 09-18-22, 04:20 PM
  #26397  
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Here's a nice DL-1 for sale in Toronto.
Listed as a 1981

Seller is asking $450.00 which would seem reasonable considering the condition and completeness.
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Old 09-18-22, 06:00 PM
  #26398  
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^^Full chaincase, too. Nice!
Had mine out the other day for a really nice ride.
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Old 09-18-22, 06:10 PM
  #26399  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
26.8 is the size you need, and this 450mm post ought to give him a bit more wiggle room for height.

https://www.porkchopbmx.com/bmx-bicy...m-long-ch.html

Post currently appears to be barely installed, FYI. DO NOT let him ride it like that!
Thanks! I passed that info on to him and he ordered one.
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Old 09-18-22, 06:28 PM
  #26400  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
Here's a nice DL-1 for sale in Toronto.
Listed as a 1981

Seller is asking $450.00 which would seem reasonable considering the condition and completeness.
And it's not a Canadian model with that full chaincase. Nice.
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