For the love of English 3 speeds...
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What a fun event! Great people, got to meet @bikamper, great weather, so many food stops! Someone described it as the kind of ride where you might actually gain weight despite the miles. Highly recommended for those of you thinking about next year.
At one point outside Maiden Rock, my bad bad not good job of a shift cable for her S5 hub failed. She was stuck in high gear. Ted happened by while I was trying to see how I could mend things; he spotted a bit of plastic at his feet; it had a keyhole cutout in it that allowed it to be fished over the toggle chain and then jammed onto the chain in such a way as to prevent it retracting, thus the hub could be set to a lower gear. The level of coincidence was off the charts! This bit of plastic somehow the right shape was right where the shift cable failed- not a mile or ten away but right at Ted's feet. With exactly the kind of hole in it to make it easy to set the gear you needed when the cable was gone?? Sheesh
The next day we installed an SA cable on the Lady of the Lake using one of those SA cable clamp thingys with the barrel adjuster on it. I had saved the original cable sleeve and metal bits so it was a 5 minute job.
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Very pleasant. Saturday was cool in the mornings, maybe 50-55, with a high around 70 F. Sunday was a bit warmer--was about 60 in the morning and was 77 or 78 in the afternoon. Low humidity, light breezes. What breezes we had were tailwinds. Not a cloud in the sky--it was a little relentless; I was riding on the left on some gravel roads to stay in the shade Sunday afternoon. Not very English weather. Some of us were reminiscing about the Tornado in 2011, or the downpour in 2015.
Last edited by gna; 05-24-23 at 03:14 PM.
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I spotted this fine machine Saturday evening at dinner. It appears to be a pre-war Raleigh- note the shifter and pulley, both pre-war bits. The Lauterwasser bars look like the real thing. Pay attention to the stem, which has no quill bolt but instead is held in place by the collar bolt of the headset (which also appears pre-war). I didn't check the hub for dates. If this is cobbled together from bits, it was done with an eye towards the arcane. The bike in the background uses a classy means to keep one's skirt out of the spokes- black lace.

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The condition of this one caught my eye. $95.00 in Maine, somewhere:









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I made sure this one stayed put.

I counted Noel as one of my best friends.The cut out was Noel to a tee..


I had nice chats with nlearner, Salubrious, and gna. And I was there for the great repair to the Lady of the Lake.
It was bad enough taking over ten hours to get to Red Wing on Friday. But, dammit, having to make this repair in a parking lot 60 miles from home pushed today to 11.5 hours.

I don't know how the Iron Butt riders do it.
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I spotted this fine machine Saturday evening at dinner. It appears to be a pre-war Raleigh- note the shifter and pulley, both pre-war bits. The Lauterwasser bars look like the real thing. Pay attention to the stem, which has no quill bolt but instead is held in place by the collar bolt of the headset (which also appears pre-war). I didn't check the hub for dates. If this is cobbled together from bits, it was done with an eye towards the arcane. The bike in the background uses a classy means to keep one's skirt out of the spokes- black lace.


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I owned this one a few years ago and I loved riding it. It was an 80s era Taiwan import.
This one is for sale locally now for $40. I’m just about to jump on it. Just not sure I want another project right now.


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I have a DL-1 Roadster question:
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
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The saddle and saddle bag are worth the $40, if you ask me, and 23" Men's models are always in demand. It has a coaster brake, which you may or may not like, but it can be changed.
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Good to know. Thanks for the info!
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I have a DL-1 Roadster question:
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
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tires not installed, wheels misplaced.
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I have a DL-1 Roadster question:
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
The front brakes pulse. Is that because the wheel is slightly out of round, or because the brakes are catching on some of the rusty/worn spots on the rims?
If new rims are needed,Yellow Jersey has rims. Are they any good, or should I try to find some good condition Raleigh ones?
Rust can do it too but to a far lessor degree.
If it were me and I discovered that the rim was out of round I would try to true it first before going to a new rim. Getting a new wheel built to be perfectly concentric is the hardest part about building a wheel: you may be trading one pulsing problem for another.
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My recently revived 1946/47 Raleigh Lenton Sports after a run to the library. I had a bit of an epiphany. I realized I was doing the same thing 60 some odd years ago. Riding a three speed bike to the library. I bought this ten years ago, tore it down and left it until earlier this year. During that time, Gus Salmon recreated the markings for it. Should it ever get refinished, they will be welcome. Due to back issues, I gave it the upright treatment. I still have the original bar/stem combo. The brakes are a carryover from the PO. I do have NOS correct brakes for it. I may refinish, I may let its next caretaker do the job.

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What a fun event! Great people, got to meet @bikamper, great weather, so many food stops! Someone described it as the kind of ride where you might actually gain weight despite the miles. Highly recommended for those of you thinking about next year.

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Love that three-pin fluted crank. I thought these only came on the Super Sports. Sharp all over.
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Re the pulsing rod brakes, first check for dents or impact marks in the surface of the steel. Tap out and level any dents. Then true the wheel to get as round as you can. Once you've done all that, see how bad it is. If it's still too much for your liking, try Yellow Jersey for a rim. Andrew will point you in the right direction. I have an Eastman front rim I got from them about 20 years ago because the front on my 1978 DL-1 was really, really bad. It made braking a lot better. You'll need to know how to build a wheel, or have a good shop do it for you if you get to that point. The old Raleigh rims are better than the Indian-made ones, but sometimes it's all you have. The Eastman rim is of OK quality for a basic, 1970s DL-1. I'd look for an original if the bike was an older and more collectible model.
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If the wheels are out of round the brakes will pulse. IMO this is the biggest weakness of the rod brakes other than the water on the rim thing.
Rust can do it too but to a far lessor degree.
If it were me and I discovered that the rim was out of round I would try to true it first before going to a new rim. Getting a new wheel built to be perfectly concentric is the hardest part about building a wheel: you may be trading one pulsing problem for another.
Rust can do it too but to a far lessor degree.
If it were me and I discovered that the rim was out of round I would try to true it first before going to a new rim. Getting a new wheel built to be perfectly concentric is the hardest part about building a wheel: you may be trading one pulsing problem for another.
on a rod brake bike, it is a bother to get a wheel out. Also, it helps to verify that the spokes are not protruding through the end of the nipples.
‘What I have done to mine was loosen the spokes a turn first to verify that they will adjust. On one wheel I unlaced the wheel, cleaned the rim, new nipples and rebuilt. That way helped much.
there was a rod brake compatible rim in aluminum sold mostly in the Netherlands at one time. I solved my problem so did not pursue.
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