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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 11-24-23, 09:27 AM
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Well done, 'Small cog'.
Where's there's a will......
I've been a motorcyclist for over 50 years and wouldn't have even considered doing that!
A lovely understated 'Lenton'.
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Old 11-24-23, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Small cog
... the SA four speed was a solid lump of rust inside unfortunately...
It's entirely possible, but I'd encourage others to not be hasty. This AW was returned to service:


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Old 11-24-23, 09:42 AM
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tcs, I'd call that rust just a flesh wound
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Old 11-24-23, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by tcs
It's entirely possible, but I'd encourage others to not be hasty. This AW was returned to service:


What did you use to clean it up? Someone gave me a rusted up AW. I soaked the parts in ATF, and finally got everything apart. I'm wondering if I need to buff or scrub some of the rusty areas, or just put it together with some lube...
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Old 11-24-23, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tcs
It's entirely possible, but I'd encourage others to not be hasty. This AW was returned to service:


I am dealing with an AW in similar if not worse condition. All four pawl springs were just rusty bits once I got it apart. Does anyone know a source for them, other than the $6-$8 each (plus shipping) on Ebay? Will also need all bearings replaced. This is for a mid-70's Raleigh Sport a friend gave me.






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Old 11-25-23, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by zookster
I am dealing with an AW in similar if not worse condition. All four pawl springs were just rusty bits once I got it apart. Does anyone know a source for them, other than the $6-$8 each (plus shipping) on Ebay? Will also need all bearings replaced. This is for a mid-70's Raleigh Sport a friend gave me.

The blue is an unusual colour I have only ever seen black Sports this side of the pond, good luck with the hub a bike worth getting sorted.

Last edited by Small cog; 11-25-23 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 11-26-23, 08:54 AM
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I would get rid of all the rust on the internal parts of a geared hub. If you do that, there's no guaranty that it will work, but leaving some rust on reduces the chances further.

I once opened up an old hub and found the lubricant had turned to varnish and had hardened on the surfaces. It took a lot of scratching to get it off. In the end, the hub worked well.
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Old 11-27-23, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cjefferds
Here is a nice example (my biased opinion) of a 1950s Raleigh “Sports Light Roadster” model 22. Approximate vintage is 1955-1957 based on the excellent visual identification chart available
on the headbadge site. The model name variation is also lifted from this chart but can’t independently confirm. Alas, this one has a single speed SA freewheel rather than 3 speed.
Looking at those lugs, I'd say this is a post- '59 frame...
But a very nice bike btw.

Peter
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Old 11-27-23, 09:18 AM
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Two pertinent questions....

1. AG Dynohub AG/AW weights

AW = 2.35lb
AG = 3.66lb

So the AG Dynohub is1.32lb heavier, plus a suitable lamp/wiring set.
For Sunday rides is the extra weight/clutter worthwhile?

2. What do you folk use to protect chrome steel rims and avoid contaminating brake blocks?#
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Old 11-27-23, 05:15 PM
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$50 Norman with groovy crankset in MA.

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Old 11-27-23, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by oldveloman
Looking at those lugs, I'd say this is a post- '59 frame...
But a very nice bike btw.

Peter
Thank you, sir. That actually jibes well with what the seller told me. He seemed to think it was a ‘61.
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Old 11-28-23, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
1. AG Dynohub AG/AW weights

AW = 2.35lb
AG = 3.66lb

So the AG Dynohub is1.32lb heavier, plus a suitable lamp/wiring set.
For Sunday rides is the extra weight/clutter worthwhile?
AG = 3.66lb
Campy High flange front hub = 1.27lb
Total = 4.93lb

AW = 2.35lb
GH6 = 2.50lb
Total = 4.85lb

Well, blow me down. It's about a wash.

In answer to the question, if the Sunday ride will be home before twilight (even with a flat tire repair) during the short days of winter and there's certainty a rainstorm won't blow up and if the cyclist has other bike(s) to ride at other times & conditions or if the battery lights are checked routinely for fresh/charged batteries, then certainly the weight/clutter of a dynamo light system can be dispensed with.

Last edited by tcs; 11-28-23 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 11-28-23, 04:54 PM
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This past weekend I began hearing a clanging / metal on metal noise in the front end of my 1971 Raleigh Sports. I convinced myself that it was the front mudguard scraping against the front tire, causing a rattle.

Turns out, I had a bit of play in my front hub. I removed and cleaned the axle, cones, and hub. Repacked the 3/16" bearings with Phil Wood Waterproof Grease, and reinstalled the cones (as per Sheldon Brown's method). Smooth as silk, no more noise.


Axle, cones, washers, nuts, and bearing from the Raleigh Sports front hub.
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Old 12-01-23, 02:19 AM
  #27589  
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Looking through this thread I realise the Raleigh Twenty I renovated is also comes under this catagory so here it is, I had one as a child although badged as a Triumph and on a nostalgia trip bought this one for a tenner on Ebay and it was only a short train ride away. It is the rarer Sigma fitted with drum brakes which I like even if you have to make allowances when stopping especially on hills, this is another restomod which took 7 lbs off of the weight and the bmx wheels and tyres made it capable of some gentle off roading, although the Triumph I had as an 8 year old also did plenty of off roading at the time.
As I picked it up.



And after renovation and being put on a diet.

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Old 12-01-23, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Small cog
This is my current favourite three speed, not for the purist it is something of a restomod, a 1950 Raleigh Lenton that was picked up from the scrap pile at my local bike shop, my friend who owns the shop said "if you don't take it today the scrapman will take it tomorrow" I was on my motorcycle at the time and had a couple of straps so home it came. There was not much of any use, even the SA four speed was a solid lump of rust inside unfortunately but the frame and forks were still sound so I had them sand blasted and resprayed them with aerosols, it is not a standard colour but I like it and have badged it as a Clubman although it is not.
It has a lot of 1970s updates with a compliment of Sakae Ringyo components mostly bought cheap in poor condition and restored on my polishing wheel, a nos Shimano 3 speed hub and Bluemels mudguards from the same bike shop and a Brooks plastic saddle which is ok but get a bit firm after 30 miles. This has taken the weight down from about 35 lbs down to 27 so quite a reduction.



The white accents really do it. I like what you did with the bike. That's a nice-looking rack. People must be surprised to see you flying up hills. Roadie in cafe:
"I was neck-and-neck with this guy on an old 3-speed. I couldn't shake him. He must have souped it up, or something".
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Old 12-02-23, 08:52 AM
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Hi All, sorry if this question has been asked before…is there an assembly manual/book somewhere that has exploded diagrams or images for assembling/restoring a 1970s Raleigh Sport 3-speed? Thanks.

Last edited by FML123; 12-02-23 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 12-02-23, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by FML123
Hi All, sorry if this question has been asked before…is there an assembly manual/book somewhere that exploded diagrams or images for assembling/restoring a 1970s Raleigh Sport 3-speed? Thanks.
Yep, sit down and write it

Seriously though, Mr Google has a very big selection to choose from.

Then there's your new found friends here.
Ask a question.....it will be answered.
Probably
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Old 12-02-23, 06:59 PM
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Old 12-02-23, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by FML123
Hi All, sorry if this question has been asked before…is there an assembly manual/book somewhere that has exploded diagrams or images for assembling/restoring a 1970s Raleigh Sport 3-speed? Thanks.
Sheldon Brown is an excellent one-stop shop for advice and nuance in 3 speeds, Raleigh and otherwise.

Specific manuals for Sturmey Archer and exploded assembly diagrams are widely available online. Parts are often found on this forum.

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Old 12-03-23, 03:38 AM
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UK ebay item...
A Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix 23'' frame set at a not unreasonable £40.
Very tempting. What would be involved, putting an AW hub into such a frame designed for a derailleur set-up?


Last edited by Cyclespanner; 12-03-23 at 03:52 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 12-03-23, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
UK ebay item...
A Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix 23'' frame set at a not unreasonable £40.
Very tempting. What would be involved, putting an AW hub into such a frame designed for a derailleur set-up?

I would think not very much at all, here is my Carlton which had a derailleur originally and I fitted a SA hub, you could use a clamp on cable pulley on the top tube if you wanted the gear cable to run that way or run it down the down tube as I have done, either way it will probably be better for it.

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Old 12-03-23, 10:09 AM
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Hello again 'Small cog'.

Your Carlton looks the business.
Is there much difference between the drop out measurements?
If so how is that accommodated?

This one I've highlighted is too big for me anyway. I have a 21'' 'Chiltern' which I'm going to have to get used to.
Depending where one looks a 21'' frame should suit my 30'' inseam, but no, it's a struggle if my attention isn't turned up to 10.

It's a shame they didn't do a proper lightweight using the roadster slack angles.
May be they did? (I don't mean the 'Clubman', Reg Harris types).

I've been doing some amateur research based on enlarging good quality photographs of the many and varied frames used on the roadsters and am finding the frame angles vary a lot between what look to be similar cycles.

Someone must have a collection to accurately measure these details from?
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Old 12-03-23, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
Hello again 'Small cog'.

Your Carlton looks the business.
Is there much difference between the drop out measurements?
If so how is that accommodated?

This one I've highlighted is too big for me anyway. I have a 21'' 'Chiltern' which I'm going to have to get used to.
Depending where one looks a 21'' frame should suit my 30'' inseam, but no, it's a struggle if my attention isn't turned up to 10.

It's a shame they didn't do a proper lightweight using the roadster slack angles.
May be they did? (I don't mean the 'Clubman', Reg Harris types).

I've been doing some amateur research based on enlarging good quality photographs of the many and varied frames used on the roadsters and am finding the frame angles vary a lot between what look to be similar cycles.

Someone must have a collection to accurately measure these details from?
I am also 30" inseam and a 21" frame usually fits me well, I have found most of these older bikes to be 110-115mm dropout and have never had a problem persuading one size into the other.
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Old 12-03-23, 01:55 PM
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Back to 5-speed Sprites for a moment, there's a nicely preserved specimen on Boston's CL:

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...691843033.html

I particularly like that big-a$$ shift lever!
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Old 12-03-23, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
What would be involved, putting an AW hub into such a frame designed for a derailleur set-up?
Surprisingly, perhaps, not much.

Sturmey offers a variety of 3-speed shifters and a collection of cable stops & pulleys to get the shift wire from the 'cockpit' back to the hub.

There are two different widths of anti-rotation washers: the 7.9mm (example - HMW155) and the 9.5mm (example - HMW494) for different width dropout slots. The derailleur bike probably needs the 9.5 version.

If you have the narrowest axle on the three-speed hub, you might need to move the anti-rotation washers to the inside of the dropouts to match your OLD.

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