Here is the photo to which you allude:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6098/6...97d332f5_b.jpg

I haven't really ridden it yet... just a couple miles. Cool period correct mudguards that might be too fragile to ride this time of year (they get brittle in the cold) sso perhaps I should change to metal. Haven't actually attached the taillight, either.

allright now....that is a sweet ride

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6098/6...97d332f5_b.jpg

That is beautiful, RHM Very much so.

1969 Raleigh Sports with the Benelux Cyclo derailleur conversion and a leather Brook B-15 saddle.

http://oldroadsforums.com/img/dec8DSCN1532.jpg

We can forgive you for needing that extra gear.

In other news... my friend is clearing out his garage and I think I am getting a Moulton F frame (complete) and he has lots of extra bits.

Moulton F-frames are cool. They are the height of bicycle design; after that, things stopped getting better.

I need an extra rear rack, if he has one!

In fact, Sixtyfiver, perhaps you're the man who could make me one? I have the piece of steel that mounts into the frame; the rest is gone. Interested? If so, please contact me privately.

pm sent... may very well be a spare rack is his trove of parts too.

English via Chicago
 

Hi All, new poster here.

I hope a Schwinn 3 speed is allowed. It seems much in the spirit. This was my Dad's 75 Suburban. I could never get the 5 speed to drop down into low for hills, so I excised a couple of gears from it.

I found a 36 hole AW and laced them up with the usual CR18 rims. B66 cost more than the bike did new, but it is a lifetime investment!

The 22" frame is a little small but works well enough with a long seat post.

Regards,
David

Love the composition of this picture.....what kind of bars are those?

Also, I have been noting the vast differences in seat angle across the pictures in this thread - tilted forward like here, tilted back like 55 Traveller's Schwinn, and varying degrees of level.....is it truly "whatever is comfortable"?

Mark

The next "click" down on that seat is dead flat but it felt like I was sliding downhill. I think it is "whats comfortable", but I usually rely on whether it feels "neutral", neither sliding forward nor backwards. I think the best angle can vary with other factors. for example, I've notice a lot of fixies with very low handlebars and the seats tend to be a little downward at the front. This probably makes sense with a really low torso angle.

Regards,
David

Saddle position / tilt is a highly personal choice and think most seek a neutral position... find that with a B17 or other saddles designed for upright riding having the nose up a degree works best to give me that while my racier saddles get a level set up.

65-er - I agree - I find without the slight tilt backward the pressure points are too sharp when sitting more upright, and like 55-traveler I feel like I'm sliding downhill. Its just that with all the photos in this thread the variety of setups is interesting!

Mark

Has anyone tried a s3x hub in an old Sports frame? Looks like there's a 5mm difference in OLD, the hub being wider than the dropouts.

This is interesting to me both as a slippery weather bike and also, perhaps, with a freewheel screwed on and a derailer.. kind of a modern-day cyclo kit...

Was 3 spd fixed ever an option on a bike like the Sports or was it really found only on road/racing frames?

If you check out "My Bicycles" at my blog you'd see that, of the bikes I have posted that there is some variances between saddle angles on bicycles that all share some pretty common measurements when it comes to fit.

If the bike tends to lean toward more aggressive riding the saddle will be level or even tilted down a notch and for bikes that are for longer and more leisurely rides the noses are ticked up just a little.

I did change the saddle angle on my '51 CCM shortly after I took this picture as I was in the process of dialing this in as erectile dysfunction in a saddle can cause other types of erectile dysfunction.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...11ccmpath1.JPG

The ASC is in itself a very rare hub and as far as I know was never offered on the Raleigh Sports which was typically fitted with the AW save for that brief period when they tried replacing this with the SW in '57 which was a failure... the AW returned in '58.

Have test ridden the S3X and liked it a good deal... would probably be a fine upgrade or refit to a Sports and would appeal to those who abhor coasting.

I don't know if it's allowed, but it's here and I enjoyed seeing it even if slightly off topic.

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/1...ght-solutions/
http://www.compasscycle.com/Lighting.html

Drop in LED replacement bulbs with built in stand-lights for vintage tail lights are now available in the US! =)

For those of you unaware of the drop in LED headlight bulbs (without standlight) see http://www.home.earthlink.net/~stein...erchandise.htm

Interesting history, thank you. I wonder if it is more forgivable - or less - to create such a machine knowing that it's not a redux...

Thank you again, glad to hear it, I am looking forward to trying it but had not found the right bike / opportunity. So how 'tragic' would it be to cold-set an old 3-speed 5mm? The machine in question is a 60s Royal. I have heard of broken axles at the clutch key slot if I try to spring the dropouts open (misaligned ends), but don't know if that's an overstated risk. Anyone?

EDIT: Sorry, I realize I originally / inaccurately said 'Sports'. I guess I was thinking in terms of 'type'.

It's fine to do that, Super.bee. Just do it.

I am waiting for someone to offer a replacement for the front lights (with some decent output) although that rear replacement is pretty sweet.

Well dangit...

Confirmed that I am indeed getting a complete, albeit disassembled Moulton F series and can also get some nice alloy rims at a fair price but the dang thing comes with an SA FW and not an AW so no three speed love here.

Won't see it until I get back from Portlandia... might be a while until I get it all put together and if it needs a repaint will powder coat it at the shop.

Have you seen these here? LED Bulb Conversion: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~stein...erchandise.htm

It is supposed to be for headlights, or maybe you already saw it and deemed it inadequate. :)

Am waiting for someone to offer a better quality 2W LED... at 1w and 50 lumens that is pretty weak while something akin to a modern 2W Cree bulb will match a 10 Watt halogen and provide around 200 lumens of light.

Good for a tail light but not quite enough for a headlight

OK, thanks Sixty-Fiver and noglider for the encouragement! Pics to follow, will gather wheelbuilding supplies...

Stock Raleigh handlebars, turned upside down.
A very old trick...