For the love of English 3 speeds...
#3051
Senior Member
Raleigh DL-1 Tourist by djk762

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Vitus 979, Simplon 4 Star, Gazelle Champion Mondial, Woodrup Giro, Dawes Atlantis
Vitus 979, Simplon 4 Star, Gazelle Champion Mondial, Woodrup Giro, Dawes Atlantis
#3053
Cottered Crank
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
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Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3
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Since I can buy SA SW hubs for $2-3 I doubt I'll be buying an SRAM or Shimano new unit any time soon. Sorry but you can't beat time-proven designs at dirt-cheap levels. If I want something with more than 3 gears then we are talking new/new prices and then performance and price both come into play. I still like the newer Sturmey-Archer stuff. Only good came out of it when it was bought by the Taiwan company and brought back up to Asian high-tolerance specs rather than the worn-out junk machinery the Brits were building them with.
#3054
porc, pâtisserie & piment
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#3055
Cottered Crank
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For $30 you can typically find one with the rest of the bike attached.
#3056
Get off my lawn!
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Think Bike Co-op
#3057
Cottered Crank
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Or garage sale. It's not like before the 70's 10-speed craze the AW hub wasn't popular. About half the bikes sold in the USA were wearing an AW hub out back almost.
#3058
waverley610
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Straight out of Surrey
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Bikes: ~ Unknown 1930's double top tube roadster ~ 1954 JAMES Arrow Ace hub geared club machine ~ 1959 All Steel Raleigh ~
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Name the builder?
or How to relax those frame angles!
or How to relax those frame angles!
Last edited by waverley610; 03-21-12 at 08:46 AM.
#3059
multimodal commuter
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
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Hercules!
#3060
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southwest Michigan
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no way the kickstand kept that load up while they were stacking
#3061
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
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Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
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#3062
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland Oregon
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Bikes: 70"s Raleigh Superbe, 1959 Murray Vanguard Middle weigh cruiser
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Hitting the co-ops is a good idea. I just picked up an AW (1960/August) for $10.00 in the bins at a local co-op with the indicator chain. And they had at least one other in there (68/without the chain) also for $10.00. I got it to part it out if I ever need too. Seemed like a good investment after looking at how much even the pawl springs are with shipping if ordered on line, and the time and saved running or calling all over town to find what I need locally.
Though I gotta admit looking at how much they can go for on e-bay has me wondering if I'd be better selling it there. Some guys even selling the shells for more than I bought the whole thing for.
#3063
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland Oregon
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Bikes: 70"s Raleigh Superbe, 1959 Murray Vanguard Middle weigh cruiser
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#3064
Membership Not Required
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
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They aren't really that hard, and when I opened mine up I was surprised by how simple the whole thing really is. Biggest problem I had was that I didn't have the foresight to keep the dis assembly in order until I actually opened it up. So it took a couple attempts to get the spacers in the right position when I put it back on the bike.
Hitting the co-ops is a good idea. I just picked up an AW (1960/August) for $10.00 in the bins at a local co-op with the indicator chain. And they had at least one other in there (68/without the chain) also for $10.00. I got it to part it out if I ever need too. Seemed like a good investment after looking at how much even the pawl springs are with shipping if ordered on line, and the time and saved running or calling all over town to find what I need locally.
Though I gotta admit looking at how much they can go for on e-bay has me wondering if I'd be better selling it there. Some guys even selling the shells for more than I bought the whole thing for.
Hitting the co-ops is a good idea. I just picked up an AW (1960/August) for $10.00 in the bins at a local co-op with the indicator chain. And they had at least one other in there (68/without the chain) also for $10.00. I got it to part it out if I ever need too. Seemed like a good investment after looking at how much even the pawl springs are with shipping if ordered on line, and the time and saved running or calling all over town to find what I need locally.
Though I gotta admit looking at how much they can go for on e-bay has me wondering if I'd be better selling it there. Some guys even selling the shells for more than I bought the whole thing for.
I don't know of any other hub in the world that has the parts availability of the Sturmey Archer AW, one of the many reason I like them and keep them around.
Aaron

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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#3065
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
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Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.
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My next project: A couple of weeks ago I got a visit from a guy who was cleaning out his late father's property prior to putting it up for sale. He wondered if I'd be interested in any of the bikes his dad had collected, went into this great spiel about how dad was an enthusiastic rider decades ago, etc., etc., etc. Didn't expect much, but figured it was nearby, so I'd give it a look. The day I left he gave me directions as to where to go, and my heart sank. I knew the place well - the local auto graveyard just outside of my town, home to any number of rotting Vegas. Well, I'd already committed myself to go, so what the heck. Maybe I could find something.
It was as expected. Four sheds full of rusted Murray's, Huffy's, Columbia's, and a few Schwinn's; the latter way too far gone to even bother bringing a few home to tear down into parts bikes. And then, at the back of the last shed I find this:


Ten bucks and it's mine. According to the hub it's a '73. Decals appear to be intact, and the paint (under all that filth) appears to be complete with a minimum of scratches. Bars, stem and levers are the worst, and all that appears to be well within the abilities of my oxalic acid bath. Now, if I can just find a nice Brooks B-72.
When finished I plan on selling it, although it's not going to get the usual 'fix and flip'. This one appears to be worth doing a complete restoration and if the end result is commensurate to the effort given I'll probably be asking a slight bit over the usual $125.00 I get for my Craigslist bikes. Won't be done for a little while, however. I've got a St. Etienne on the stand now, and a German Kolbe scheduled next.
It was as expected. Four sheds full of rusted Murray's, Huffy's, Columbia's, and a few Schwinn's; the latter way too far gone to even bother bringing a few home to tear down into parts bikes. And then, at the back of the last shed I find this:


Ten bucks and it's mine. According to the hub it's a '73. Decals appear to be intact, and the paint (under all that filth) appears to be complete with a minimum of scratches. Bars, stem and levers are the worst, and all that appears to be well within the abilities of my oxalic acid bath. Now, if I can just find a nice Brooks B-72.
When finished I plan on selling it, although it's not going to get the usual 'fix and flip'. This one appears to be worth doing a complete restoration and if the end result is commensurate to the effort given I'll probably be asking a slight bit over the usual $125.00 I get for my Craigslist bikes. Won't be done for a little while, however. I've got a St. Etienne on the stand now, and a German Kolbe scheduled next.
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Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
#3066
Half way there
Join Date: May 2011
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Looks like it will clean up very well.
-G
-G
#3067
porc, pâtisserie & piment
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#3068
Cottered Crank
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Location: Chicago
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When digging through a bucket 'o used Sturmey hubs i try and get one that looks like it hasn't been taken apart. Ones that obviously have a loose ball ring probably have been canibalized for parts from the inside and just hand-tightened and thrown back into the bucket. Just in case it's still a good idea to buy TWO hubs if they are only a couple of bucks and there is a whole bucket of them. It's nice to have spare parts as they get REALLY expensive buying them one at a time online.
About the only parts I'll buy new for a hub are the axle nuts (if you want shiny ones -and they do tend to be stripped or be missing) and the indicator chains (often messed up or missing) Sometimes a clutch spring might be necessary if an old one is weak -but they cost as much as a whole 'nother used hub...
I don't count the cog -I've got the whole spread of them on hand. Those are cheap -usually $5 or so and I don't like re-using cruddy cogs as that ruins good chains...
About the only parts I'll buy new for a hub are the axle nuts (if you want shiny ones -and they do tend to be stripped or be missing) and the indicator chains (often messed up or missing) Sometimes a clutch spring might be necessary if an old one is weak -but they cost as much as a whole 'nother used hub...
I don't count the cog -I've got the whole spread of them on hand. Those are cheap -usually $5 or so and I don't like re-using cruddy cogs as that ruins good chains...
#3069
Senior Member
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How do the guts of the new Sunrace hubs interchange with the old Sturmey Archer hubs? It is known that old AW, AM, FW, S5 (pre 1984) guts can be put into the new Sunrace AW hubshells and new AW guts can be put into the old shells.
But what about the mechanical guts of the old drum brake or dynohub models (AB, AG)? Can these be swapped for the guts of the newer NIG drum brake models like the XRD3?
But what about the mechanical guts of the old drum brake or dynohub models (AB, AG)? Can these be swapped for the guts of the newer NIG drum brake models like the XRD3?
#3070
Count Orlok Member
The weather has been unseasonably warm here, so I took my Sports down and rode it to work today. What a joy to ride.
#3071
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Just brought a lovely dark red/maroon ~1955 Raleigh Sports for $5 & some traded R nuts. I have no space left here now....I blame you! Pictures of course to follow eventually.
#3072
Senior Member
I have a rusty old AW hub I got for free... dunno which approach I want to take cleaning in it up... might boil it in hot water to melt the old grease on the inside first, and then either do oxalic acid or get real fancy and try setting up an electrolysis bath for rust removal. I'm going to be cleaning up a bunch of rusty tools that were my great grandfathers so I want to use electrolysis on them since it's apparently the cat's meow of rust removal methods. Will report back with results.
#3073
Hopelessly addicted...
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Maryland
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#3074
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https://jtekengineering.com/jtek_bar-end_shifter.htm
Intended for drop bars but I have one on cruiser-type bars and it's very easy to use
#3075
Hopelessly addicted...
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Maryland
Posts: 5,007
Bikes: 1949 Hercules Kestrel, 1950 Norman Rapide, 1970 Schwinn Collegiate, 1972 Peugeot UE-8, 1976 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Jack Taylor Tandem, 1984 Davidson Tandem, 2010 Bilenky "BQ" 650B Constructeur Tandem, 2011 Linus Mixte
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It's not cheap - but there is this:
https://jtekengineering.com/jtek_bar-end_shifter.htm
Intended for drop bars but I have one on cruiser-type bars and it's very easy to use
https://jtekengineering.com/jtek_bar-end_shifter.htm
Intended for drop bars but I have one on cruiser-type bars and it's very easy to use
