Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 08-27-12, 08:41 PM
  #3501  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Oh and my hub needs oil! What should I use**********??? I cant find Sturmey Archer Cycle Oil anywhere. [h=1][/h]
antiqueguy is offline  
Old 08-27-12, 09:30 PM
  #3502  
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
30W motor oil
Velognome is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 05:20 AM
  #3503  
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by antiqueguy
Oh and my hub needs oil! What should I use**********??? I cant find Sturmey Archer Cycle Oil anywhere. [h=1][/h]
Anything you want as long as it isn't vegetable based. I use what ever happens to be in the oil can, usually whatever is left over from the last oil change. I think mine has Rotella T 15w-40 which is what I use in my tractors.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 05:57 PM
  #3504  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks gentlemen.
antiqueguy is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 07:41 PM
  #3505  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,872

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3546 Post(s)
Liked 3,285 Times in 1,880 Posts
Originally Posted by antiqueguy
Oh and my hub needs oil! What should I use**********??? I cant find Sturmey Archer Cycle Oil anywhere. [h=1][/h]
Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=..._from=&_ipg=50

Fill it up with generic 20 weight motor oil and you're good to go.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 08:04 PM
  #3506  
Senior Member
 
Fenway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 425

Bikes: 1983 Peugeot UO14, KHS Green-Heavily modified, 1972 Raleigh Sprite 27" (work in progress)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sheldon Brown recommend Phil Wood Tenacious Oil and after using it for a year in the oil ports of various Raleigh's I swear by the stuff.
Fenway is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 09:21 PM
  #3507  
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
Sheldon Brown recommend Phil Wood Tenacious Oil and after using it for a year in the oil ports of various Raleigh's I swear by the stuff.
How is it better than 20 or 30W motor oil?
Velognome is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 09:26 PM
  #3508  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I got one of the needle bottles of Hoppes with the intention of filling it with Phil's Tenacious when the Hoppes runs out...

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Precisi...pr_product_top

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
HOPPES LUBRICATING OIL.jpg (6.3 KB, 104 views)
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 09:57 PM
  #3509  
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
I got one of the needle bottles of Hoppes with the intention of filling it with Phil's Tenacious when the Hoppes runs out...
This tenacious oil....it's like the Rivendell thing, isn't it?
Velognome is offline  
Old 08-28-12, 10:07 PM
  #3510  
W A N T E D
 
Juggler2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I love my '79 Raleigh Sports, and I say that about a very few inanimate objects!





Juggler2 is offline  
Old 08-29-12, 11:14 AM
  #3511  
Senior Member
 
Fenway's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 425

Bikes: 1983 Peugeot UO14, KHS Green-Heavily modified, 1972 Raleigh Sprite 27" (work in progress)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Velognome
How is it better than 20 or 30W motor oil?
Phil Wood oil seems to self clean better by allowing grit to flow out while still maintaining lubrication and maintains its consistency over time. When I tried using 30W motor oil, it had a tendency to gunk together unless flushed periodically with fresh oil. I don't know why exactly Sheldon Brown recommended it in the first place, but after use, the Phill Wood oil does seem quite a bit better than standard motor oil.
Fenway is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 04:25 PM
  #3512  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Velognome
This tenacious oil....it's like the Rivendell thing, isn't it?
I dunno; I have seen people here on this forum and elsewhere swear by it. As for me; I'm a great deal more pragmatic and don't get hung up on "name brands for name brands' sake" deal.

Another needle oiler [with oil in it] that looks very interesting to me is below and I particularly liked what the two reviewers had to say about it's performance in cold weather; and what this guy says about it's "mixability":

"This is good oil for general usage as well as specific applications.
This oil seems to work well with grease and I have not found any ill affects when the two are mixed.
I also lean more towards it when winter arrives as it's thinner than most oils I use and have used it during the Northern Nevada/Sierra winters."

https://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...z-Needle-Oiler

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
PRO SHOT ZERO FRICTION OIL.jpg (8.3 KB, 106 views)
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 04:30 PM
  #3513  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Juggler2
I love my '79 Raleigh Sports, and I say that about a very few inanimate objects!
Nice mods. How do you like the Kool Stops?

If you didn't have the front brakes on there how do you think the braking would do with just the coaster brake?
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 04:43 PM
  #3514  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 350
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Nice mods. How do you like the Kool Stops?

If you didn't have the front brakes on there how do you think the braking would do with just the coaster brake?
This is a FWIW neophyte response. Not the OP here, but I now own three (They are all your fault.) Sports with coaster and not coaster brakes. The coaster girl is my official rain bike. Unlike the Corvairs of years gone by, I find her to be safe at any speed in wet conditions. I plan to replace the current pads with Kool Stops, but my commutes, to date, do not seem compromised with the originals.

Many thanks to all of you.
slowtostart is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 05:31 PM
  #3515  
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,493

Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
I dunno; I have seen people here on this forum and elsewhere swear by it. As for me; I'm a great deal more pragmatic and don't get hung up on "name brands for name brands' sake" deal.

Another needle oiler [with oil in it] that looks very interesting to me is below and I particularly liked what the two reviewers had to say about it's performance in cold weather; and what this guy says about it's "mixability":

"This is good oil for general usage as well as specific applications.
This oil seems to work well with grease and I have not found any ill affects when the two are mixed.
I also lean more towards it when winter arrives as it's thinner than most oils I use and have used it during the Northern Nevada/Sierra winters."

https://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...z-Needle-Oiler

I use Mobil-1 synthetic. Weight -whatever is available on the shelf. Maybe a little bit thicker rather than thinner as it is less likely to run out as fast. But new grease in the wheel bearings puts a stop to most of that anyhow.

It doesn't really matter that much what oil you use as long as you don't use one that tends to dry/thicken or gum up. This isn't a 15,000RPM high-performance engine we are talking about here. It goes around pretty slow, and the parts inside are not meshing with extremely high tolerances. There is almost no heat to deal with and the loads put into the hub are minimal in the grand scheme of things.

As far as detergent/non-detergent it doesn't make a flying flipping difference in this situation.

Mobil-1 off the automotive shelf makes for nice quiet hub. There is no need to spend lot of time or money sourcing and buying specialized fancy oil. A 1-qt bottle of Mobil-1 will set you back about $5 and last a lifetime of rebuilding 3-speeds much less simply riding them.
Amesja is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 05:57 PM
  #3516  
W A N T E D
 
Juggler2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Nice mods. How do you like the Kool Stops?

If you didn't have the front brakes on there how do you think the braking would do with just the coaster brake?
The Kool Stops do a great job, they do squeal though. After they break-in I expect them to quiet down a bit.

With just the coaster brake, I don't have a problem bringing the bike to a halt. However I don't ride at a breakneck pace either. Mine is the S3C hub, and I beleive that's the one that Sheldon Brown disliked. If memory serves, I beleive he stated that the coaster brake (S3C) was subject to impromptu breakage. I'm sure Sheldon was a much more aggresive rider than I, and as I said before, I have no problem with it. I'd never recommend anyone disable their front brake, in fact my Kool Stops are an attempt to improve the front brake.

I really love to ride this bike and hope to ride Lake Pepin with it next year!
Juggler2 is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 07:36 PM
  #3517  
Schwinnasaur
 
Schwinnsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,540
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Liked 168 Times in 114 Posts
Toe in the leading edge of your front brakes and you may eliminate the squeal.

I can see one advatage for the coaster on an old 3-speed. You have a good brake for the rain.

As I understood it, Sheldon's objection to coaster brakes was the chain failing and having no other brake, as many older single speed bikes did not.
Schwinnsta is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 07:46 PM
  #3518  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Amesja
It doesn't really matter that much what oil you use as long as you don't use one that tends to dry/thicken or gum up. This isn't a 15,000RPM high-performance engine we are talking about here. It goes around pretty slow, and the parts inside are not meshing with extremely high tolerances. There is almost no heat to deal with and the loads put into the hub are minimal in the grand scheme of things.
LOL, that pretty much nails it, thanks. My broad point in posting the two pics of needle oilers is simply that they [needle oilers] are, IMO, an essential piece of gear for this pursuit. And actually a lot more precise than an old SA oil can to boot! IOW, why frop 20-30 bucks for an old SA oiler when these are, in essence, free?

Is it getting chilly up there in Chi-Town yet? We've by-and-large had a cool summer down here in the Southern Piedmont.
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 08:03 PM
  #3519  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Juggler2
With just the coaster brake, I don't have a problem bringing the bike to a halt. However I don't ride at a breakneck pace either. Mine is the S3C hub, and I beleive that's the one that Sheldon Brown disliked. If memory serves, I beleive he stated that the coaster brake (S3C) was subject to impromptu breakage. I'm sure Sheldon was a much more aggresive rider than I, and as I said before, I have no problem with it. I'd never recommend anyone disable their front brake, in fact my Kool Stops are an attempt to improve the front brake.
I hear ya. I'll hit the big 6 oh! in a few months and I definitely don't rag it like I used to. In fact, when I shined, oiled and tensioned up my trusty old 10-speed [yes virginia, I'm that old], a Panasonic Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2, and took it for a blast at the beginning of the summer here, it finally occurred to me that I should get a helmet LOL.

But my 3-speed riding is generally recreational with an occasional grocery, drug store or auto parts store run thrown in.

So the reason I asked the question about the coaster brake is that I'm considering building a "Poor Man's KB2" by putting one of these...

https://hubstripping.wordpress.com/20...coaster-brake/

...on one of these...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Thruster-7...-Bike/17206771

...to approximate one of these...

https://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commute/2012-kb2-
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 08:36 PM
  #3520  
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
My broad point in posting the two pics of needle oilers is simply that they [needle oilers] are, IMO, an essential piece of gear for this pursuit
Ha, Purist?...Innovationist!! You've shown yourself!!! ...We purists (Wep's for short) always use SA cans with with NOS oil. If you insist on using those needle oilers what would you use the oily rag in your saddle bag for?

Seriously the needle bottle is ( yawn) cool but this miniture grease gun is the cat's pajamas! Now can refill my BB and Headset on the road...whooppiiiii
Attached Images
Velognome is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 09:40 PM
  #3521  
W A N T E D
 
Juggler2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
I hear ya. I'll hit the big 6 oh! in a few months and I definitely don't rag it like I used to. In fact, when I shined, oiled and tensioned up my trusty old 10-speed [yes virginia, I'm that old], a Panasonic Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2, and took it for a blast at the beginning of the summer here, it finally occurred to me that I should get a helmet LOL.

But my 3-speed riding is generally recreational with an occasional grocery, drug store or auto parts store run thrown in.

So the reason I asked the question about the coaster brake is that I'm considering building a "Poor Man's KB2" by putting one of these...

https://hubstripping.wordpress.com/20...coaster-brake/

...on one of these...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Thruster-7...-Bike/17206771

...to approximate one of these...

https://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commute/2012-kb2-
Well, I'm 58 and a half! The first bike I ever bought for myself was a large frame, black, Schwinn Continental. So we have some similarity's there.

A few years ago I was looking for a 2sp Bendix to do a similar project. Sometime during that period I got hooked on Sturmey Archer 3sp's. Ended up buying the one pictured at an antique shop for $65.00. And, coincidently I've been considering a new style Sturmey Archer dynamo hub for the front.
Juggler2 is offline  
Old 08-30-12, 09:42 PM
  #3522  
W A N T E D
 
Juggler2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinnsta
Toe in the leading edge of your front brakes and you may eliminate the squeal.

I can see one advatage for the coaster on an old 3-speed. You have a good brake for the rain.

As I understood it, Sheldon's objection to coaster brakes was the chain failing and having no other brake, as many older single speed bikes did not.
Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try!
Juggler2 is offline  
Old 08-31-12, 05:47 AM
  #3523  
Membership Not Required
 
wahoonc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: On the road-USA
Posts: 16,855

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by Juggler2
The Kool Stops do a great job, they do squeal though. After they break-in I expect them to quiet down a bit.

With just the coaster brake, I don't have a problem bringing the bike to a halt. However I don't ride at a breakneck pace either. Mine is the S3C hub, and I beleive that's the one that Sheldon Brown disliked. If memory serves, I beleive he stated that the coaster brake (S3C) was subject to impromptu breakage. I'm sure Sheldon was a much more aggresive rider than I, and as I said before, I have no problem with it. I'd never recommend anyone disable their front brake, in fact my Kool Stops are an attempt to improve the front brake.

I really love to ride this bike and hope to ride Lake Pepin with it next year!
TCW series were the Sturmey Archer coaster brake with issues. I have a couple and yes they have issues. The S3C is a better hub from the braking stand point. I run Koolstop Continentals on all of my 3 speed bikes. I have crashed into more than a few solid objects over the years when chains broke or brakes faded and failed on single speed bikes. A front brake is a good idea.

FWIW my wife prefers coaster brakes. When I convert her bikes over to the S3C I just leave the hand brakes on it for backup.
Also if you are getting squeal from the pads try toeing them in a bit, it won't completely eliminate it, but will reduce it.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Old 09-02-12, 12:03 AM
  #3524  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Here you go:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=..._from=&_ipg=50

Fill it up with generic 20 weight motor oil and you're good to go.
Both bottles are being sold as empty. But thanks!
antiqueguy is offline  
Old 09-02-12, 12:07 AM
  #3525  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Picture update. I added some raleigh fenders to the bike. They are a great fit and look great. Bikes turning into a bit of a rat rod bicycle.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMG_1842_sg.jpg (95.6 KB, 187 views)
antiqueguy is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.