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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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Old 09-21-12, 06:56 AM
  #3626  
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I strongly suspect there would be interest in a group buy for those rims. I'd be interested in a pair, for sure.

Originally Posted by jrecoi
Ciclo Torres makes the Westrick rims, but their website 404ed some six months ago. I got their phone number by extensive googling, and trying some of the variations from the results (the most commonly listed phone number went to an old warehouse that they don't own anymore, the online savvy of many Colombian businesses is quite crude).

I called them today, and they're willing to sell straight from the factory; they have 28 x 1 1/2 rims immediately available, and they know of 26 x 1 1/2 and 26 x 1 3/8, but they don't make them at the moment from lack of local demand (It was hard enough to get tires for 26 x 1 3/8 in the largest city in the country). From my location, they're pretty close, about an hour's bus ride. As far as shipping rims to the US, its a grey market affair, although I travel every once in a while back to the US.

Thanks! The Willys is from the same year as my Raleigh Sports.
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Old 09-21-12, 07:59 AM
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I'd like to see the price first, but I might purchase some as well. I suppose I'd also take a 40 hole Westwood 28 inch too.
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Old 09-21-12, 05:02 PM
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You can usually find those clips sold as "lawn mower throttle clips" in various hardware stores.
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Old 09-22-12, 11:15 AM
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Awesome website; did you see this: https://www.hiwheel.com/antique_repli...t_roadster.htm
Originally Posted by michael k
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Old 09-22-12, 05:19 PM
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Ok. I got the bolt and nut that I purchased on e-bay and it worked great to replace the old one holding the seat post. Since I removed the seat post which is the original one, I put some oil (30W) through the tube until it started "oozing" from the bracket . Also, I added some new oil to the 3 speed hub, but I was not sure how much to add.

Question here: how much do you add? Do you have to do this annually? I added a good quality 30W engine oil to it.

Next step, warm water and car wash soap to clean everything in order to be ready for polishing and detailing on the winter and for Christmas, a Brooks seat to finish it (at least, this is the plan).

Originally Posted by wahoonc
Okay I braved the wicked weather (rain and sun alternating ) and hit the shop in between lattes and emails.

Here are a couple of quick pictures via cellphone, the regular camera battery is dead and I can't find the charger base...again.

I stand corrected, there are tab slots in both sides of the stays, so the tabbed bolt is probably correct. However based on previous experience I suspect they are pretty weak and get wrung off on a regular basis. All of my Sports/Superbes have the one with the tab and a Raleigh cap bolt, those are the Raleigh 26tpi. I have had my hands on 4+ DL-1 bikes of varying vintage and every one has had a regular bolt on them... go figure.

Here are the pictures, now I have to go find a damned Raleigh seat post bolt...NOT!

Aaron


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Old 09-22-12, 07:54 PM
  #3631  
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Question here: how much do you add? Do you have to do this annually? I added a good quality 30W engine oil to it.
A small amount, perhaps an 1/8th of a teaspoon. When it's just right, the pawls click crisply; too much and they sound dead, too little and they sound dry & metalic. Don't fear, if you add too much, it will find it's way out and overfilling is not damaging to the hub.
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Old 09-22-12, 11:05 PM
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Sometimes craigslist makes me cry....

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...274614711.html
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Old 09-23-12, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew T
Sometimes craigslist makes me cry....

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...274614711.html
But I thought that Raleigh Twenties were still in the category of being modded nilly willy. The rattlecan repaint was not well executed, but the idea wasn't that bad. The seller ain't going to get much money for it though.
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Old 09-23-12, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jrecoi
But I thought that Raleigh Twenties were still in the category of being modded nilly willy. The rattlecan repaint was not well executed, but the idea wasn't that bad. The seller ain't going to get much money for it though.
But they are selling on eBay for $500!

Aaron
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Old 09-23-12, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew T
Sometimes craigslist makes me cry....

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant...274614711.html

whyyyyyyyyyyyyy.

Looking for a tissue to dry the eyes right now....
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Old 09-23-12, 01:28 PM
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Thank you for the reply, definitely I put too much oil since I can no longer hear the "tic-tic-tic" of the hub. I will let some come out which is a good idea since I'm not sure if there was old oil in there. After that I can adjust the quantity again and refill if needed. Good to know that overfilling is not damaging to the hub. Great reply Velognome.

Originally Posted by Velognome
A small amount, perhaps an 1/8th of a teaspoon. When it's just right, the pawls click crisply; too much and they sound dead, too little and they sound dry & metalic. Don't fear, if you add too much, it will find it's way out and overfilling is not damaging to the hub.
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Old 09-23-12, 04:51 PM
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Picked up an Armstrong a few months ago in the desert and I'm trying to figure out more about it. The Sturmey Archer is an AW but there is no date stamped on it?? It's a mens style frame and has the same binder bolt position as this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nanobikerdotcom/413925901/ , - but it has no logos on it and mine has 'ARMSTRONG' spelled in the chainring, and connections for a frame pump...the front wheel is french, looks to be 27" and has butterfly wing nuts holding it on, it's old as well. Rear rim is schwinn tubular s6 ?? But has a 26 x 1 1/4 clincher tire on it? ...

Attached some photos - any ideas as to it's age? Judging by a post here, https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/356293-English-3-Speed-Armstrong-amp-Raleigh , it looks to be 194#-1960...birmingham = pre-raleigh owned armstrong...




Sitting on it before I stripped it- sizing felt ok from bb/seat tube , but the top tube felt soooo short! Is this normal for the older bikes?




Second line of questioning- refurbishing a 1964 raleigh sports, I love the creme colored brake lines...I really don't want to put brand new white ones one , are there any manufacturers making creme colored lines? Any die I could use to create the look? Should I just keep them, as they work great....??


fun fun fun...
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Old 09-23-12, 05:17 PM
  #3638  
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It's a nice pre Raleigh Armstrong without it's wheelset. Could be older than you think but it's always tough to date 3 speeds. The SA hub is likely 80's...they stopped dating them around then. S-6 tubulars are indeed 26 x 1 1/4" clinchers. Stoopid nomenclature on Schwinns part. You can build it any way you want although SA hubs are de rigeur on this thread.

Re cream cable housings. I don't know of anyone making the nice ribbed housings although many were smooth too. I hang on to those...try to get your lbs to save them for you?
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Old 09-23-12, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew T
Picked up an Armstrong a few months ago in the desert and I'm trying to figure out more about it. The Sturmey Archer is an AW but there is no date stamped on it?? It's a men's style frame and has the same binder bolt position as this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/nanobikerdotcom/413925901/ , - but it has no logos on it and mine has 'ARMSTRONG' spelled in the chain-ring, and connections for a frame pump...the front wheel is french, looks to be 27" and has butterfly wing nuts holding it on, it's old as well. Rear rim is schwinn tubular s6 ?? But has a 26 x 1 1/4 clincher tire on it? ...

Attached some photos - any ideas as to it's age? Judging by a post here, https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ng-amp-Raleigh , it looks to be 194#-1960...birmingham = pre-raleigh owned armstrong...




Sitting on it before I stripped it- sizing felt ok from bb/seat tube , but the top tube felt soooo short! Is this normal for the older bikes?




Second line of questioning- refurbishing a 1964 raleigh sports, I love the creme colored brake lines...I really don't want to put brand new white ones one , are there any manufacturers making creme colored lines? Any die I could use to create the look? Should I just keep them, as they work great....??


fun fun fun...
FWIW, the lugs and head badge and apparently the "Armstrong" chain wheel are very similar to my '51 ("Gent's Model"?).
The original rims would have been Dunlop, not Schwinn, which may explain why the AW hub is undated.
Your thimbled fork crown however is distinct - most Armstrongs I have seen share a chromed fork crown cap.




I've not stumbled on any cream-colored housing. If your originals are in good condition and you like the look, you might just get away with lubing them internally along with some slick cables.
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Old 09-23-12, 08:23 PM
  #3640  
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Lugs on the Armstrong look pre-60's, the eyelets on the dropouts post 50 so I ould bet mid - 50's frame......wish I had a desert to pull bikes out of!

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Old 09-24-12, 12:40 AM
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Excellent...

Do you have a shot of the fork that you are talking about? I've just ordered some vintage bars/stem off ebay that will replace the ones it came with on there (stem was cracked in two, bars were ape hangers...ugh...) and I'll keep it with it's rat rod style. Hopefully it's not too tiny for me to ride...I love the old patina but wonder if it was painted black at one point- seeing your head tube emblem with different colors...


I read somewhere that using dish soap + water, then car wax on top is the best way to go for cleaning up the frame...What kind of car wax, carnauba? I may be pestering you guys soon about how to fix this rear hub, it has no chain dangling out of it...hopefully sheldon can bring me through it.

Thanks again
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Old 09-24-12, 05:02 AM
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No worry about pestering, we're all here to share experinces. You're right about a good washing, but then I like to finish old black English frames off with black shoe polish. Seems to hide a multitude of nicks and scratches and gives the frame a soft glow. I use Kiwi, cuz my pop always had a can or two about the house but any hard paste type will do.
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Old 09-24-12, 07:01 AM
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I'd also recommend that you use a lighter oil - perhaps 20wt., non-detergent oil.

R.

Originally Posted by BRAZUCA
Thank you for the reply, definitely I put too much oil since I can no longer hear the "tic-tic-tic" of the hub. I will let some come out which is a good idea since I'm not sure if there was old oil in there. After that I can adjust the quantity again and refill if needed. Good to know that overfilling is not damaging to the hub. Great reply Velognome.
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Old 09-24-12, 07:08 AM
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The original spec stuff was basically SAE 20 oil in a can with a small spout. 3 in 1 makes SAE 20 oil in the form of its "blue can" "motor" oil product. I've used 10w-30 in the past with no problems either, but have since located a stock of 3-in-1 blue. Do not use the 3-in-1 black/white/red can standard because it can congeal due to its composition- stick with blue can "motor". I add a few drops once per month.
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Old 09-24-12, 08:40 AM
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I have an early 60s Armstrong hanging on the hook waiting to get reassembled. I have most everything I need xept tires. It came in with S6 Kendas, and I admit to the fiscal foolishness of being a tire snob.
After an extensive search, it turns out that our friends at Schwalbe make a tire for just about any rim you can come up with. And voila:
https://store.schwalbe.co.uk/products...1.106967.0.0.0

Shipping is going to be a bit of a beat-down, so I'm considering getting a few pairs and push them off on the Schwinn weenies in my neighborhood....or not.
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Old 09-24-12, 08:54 AM
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I like the shoe polish idea, I will try that as well, thanks Velognonme.

Originally Posted by Velognome
No worry about pestering, we're all here to share experinces. You're right about a good washing, but then I like to finish old black English frames off with black shoe polish. Seems to hide a multitude of nicks and scratches and gives the frame a soft glow. I use Kiwi, cuz my pop always had a can or two about the house but any hard paste type will do.
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Old 09-24-12, 08:54 AM
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Thanks, good to know about the SAE 20 oil type. I'll keep that in mind.
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Old 09-24-12, 08:56 AM
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I'll see if I can find this 3-in-1 blue SAE 20. Thanks again folks. 3 speed is all new for me and I'm willing to learn, I love this thing.

Originally Posted by SirMike1983
The original spec stuff was basically SAE 20 oil in a can with a small spout. 3 in 1 makes SAE 20 oil in the form of its "blue can" "motor" oil product. I've used 10w-30 in the past with no problems either, but have since located a stock of 3-in-1 blue. Do not use the 3-in-1 black/white/red can standard because it can congeal due to its composition- stick with blue can "motor". I add a few drops once per month.
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Old 09-24-12, 08:59 AM
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I believe this is the 3-in-one oil you are talking about.



Originally Posted by SirMike1983
The original spec stuff was basically SAE 20 oil in a can with a small spout. 3 in 1 makes SAE 20 oil in the form of its "blue can" "motor" oil product. I've used 10w-30 in the past with no problems either, but have since located a stock of 3-in-1 blue. Do not use the 3-in-1 black/white/red can standard because it can congeal due to its composition- stick with blue can "motor". I add a few drops once per month.
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Old 09-24-12, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowbarber
I have an early 60s Armstrong hanging on the hook waiting to get reassembled. I have most everything I need xept tires. It came in with S6 Kendas, and I admit to the fiscal foolishness of being a tire snob.
After an extensive search, it turns out that our friends at Schwalbe make a tire for just about any rim you can come up with. And voila:
https://store.schwalbe.co.uk/products...1.106967.0.0.0

Shipping is going to be a bit of a beat-down, so I'm considering getting a few pairs and push them off on the Schwinn weenies in my neighborhood....or not.
If you're serious about your tire snobbery, you might be better off replacing the wheels with the proper ISO 590 size, that would give you much better tire options.
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