For the love of English 3 speeds...
11-02-12, 08:27 PM
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I read every post in this thread because I love these old speed bikes. So far I only have 5 American 3-speed bikes with Shimano hubs. I am thinking about getting some English ones.
Here is a 1961 Armstrong that is close to me. It is missing the chaincase and a bit rusty. The front hub seems to be oil lubed.
What do you think? How much is it worth? Thanks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/160907949485...84.m1423.l2648
Here is a 1961 Armstrong that is close to me. It is missing the chaincase and a bit rusty. The front hub seems to be oil lubed.
What do you think? How much is it worth? Thanks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/160907949485...84.m1423.l2648
11-02-12, 10:03 PM
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It's worth what you're willing to pay. Personally, I wouldn't pay more than $75 for that bike, especially because it's missing its chain guard!
11-02-12, 10:03 PM
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That guy looks familiar. Does he know you posted it?
Originally Posted by gna
My friend has a Gold Royal Scot:
I've also seen a few black ones. It was a Raleigh-built store brand, apparently.
I've also seen a few black ones. It was a Raleigh-built store brand, apparently.
11-03-12, 06:43 AM
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RE: the Armstrong.
That is about the price locally. His price is including shipping in the CONUS.
I have seen the bike. It also comes with the original bent rear wheel so it has an extra 3-speed hub. The rear fender is actually from a different Raleigh bike.
The missing chain guard is a problem.
That is about the price locally. His price is including shipping in the CONUS.
I have seen the bike. It also comes with the original bent rear wheel so it has an extra 3-speed hub. The rear fender is actually from a different Raleigh bike.
The missing chain guard is a problem.
11-03-12, 08:23 AM
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the hole behind the chainring is the mount for a full chaincase - if you can find one for a 26" wheel'd frame
Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
Almost forgot, does anybody know what this hole behind the chainring is for?
It also has an oil port on the bottom bracket. Does anybody still oil their bottom bracket?
It also has an oil port on the bottom bracket. Does anybody still oil their bottom bracket?
11-03-12, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowbarber
the hole behind the chainring is the mount for a full chaincase - if you can find one for a 26" wheel'd frame
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
11-03-12, 11:14 AM
#3809
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Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
It also has an oil port on the bottom bracket. Does anybody still oil their bottom bracket?
I also use oil to lube the bb on my '57 Peugeot and administer this via the seat tube as it has no oil port.
11-03-12, 11:25 AM
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Sixty Fiver: What oil do you use, a relative thick one?
11-03-12, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jrecoi
That hole behind the chainring is for a chaincase, usually they are threaded for a 1/4" Whitworth screw. If you managed to obtain a Raleigh chaincase, you are in luck, you remove the right crank, and fit the chaincase on with the screw, and you are set and in business.
Yellow Jersey sells chaincases that are rather compatible, the only catch is that you'll have to carefully measure and drill out the corresponding hole in the chaincase yourself, oh and do some careful bending to quiet down any rubbing. These can be freely stripped and repainted to match the Huffy's color.
The BB oiler is really useful to anyone who does not want to touch cotters, just add some oil and any gunk that has been building up will flush out. Just don't oil it over carpet! Regularly oiling it will keep the BB very smooth, I opened the BB on my Raleigh Sports, and the bearing surfaces were in NOS condition. The front hub will also have an oiling port, covered in a campagnolo style circlip.
Yellow Jersey sells chaincases that are rather compatible, the only catch is that you'll have to carefully measure and drill out the corresponding hole in the chaincase yourself, oh and do some careful bending to quiet down any rubbing. These can be freely stripped and repainted to match the Huffy's color.
The BB oiler is really useful to anyone who does not want to touch cotters, just add some oil and any gunk that has been building up will flush out. Just don't oil it over carpet! Regularly oiling it will keep the BB very smooth, I opened the BB on my Raleigh Sports, and the bearing surfaces were in NOS condition. The front hub will also have an oiling port, covered in a campagnolo style circlip.
https://graywolfphoto.com/journal/200...getting-there/
In the second photo you can just see it next to the strap I used to mount my chaincase. In fact that chaincase had the threaded holes for strap mounting and the simple hole for mounting it to the braze in if your bike had it.
I think I was the first one here on BF to report using a YJ chaincase. I was lucky to get a black one that matched my Dunelt pretty closely.
The standard oil in the day (mid-1950's) was #20 auto oil. I keep intending to put oil nipples on my bike. I am trying to make it as much like the Dunelt I had when I was a kid. By 1965 when the one I have now was made they had cheapened it quite a bit. No longer had the gold penstriping, for example, and the oil ports were gone. Of course back then it did not have the alloy rims and the BMX front hub I have on my current one. I really ought to do some updated photos.
Added: You can probably chase that hole out to 1/4x24 SAE from the 1/4x26 Whitworth.
Last edited by graywolf; 11-03-12 at 11:43 AM.
11-03-12, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
slowtostart: Do you have a close-up or a different angle shot of that rack? It looks like it's a weird shape. The axle bolt and the fender eyelets are very different sizes. I'm not sure how you would switch from one to the other unless there are different sized holes on the rack supports. However, if it's possible I would get it mounted to the eyelets. Taking the back wheel off for flats etc. will be less hassle if you don't have to deal with the rack also.
I've never kept old chains because the ones I come across are always really gummed up. They may be in decent shape under all that gunk but chains are cheap enough that I always just put a new one on.
I've never kept old chains because the ones I come across are always really gummed up. They may be in decent shape under all that gunk but chains are cheap enough that I always just put a new one on.
We finally had some sunshine. Here's a closer shot of the installation.
Also, I found this little squiggle on the underside of the bottom bracket. Looks a bit like the Specialized "S".
11-03-12, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by graywolf
*snip* I really ought to do some updated photos. *snip*
11-03-12, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nlerner
I sold a Royal Scot a few weeks ago. I bought it on eBay as a frameset plus crankset, fenders, and chain guard. My intent was to build a lightweight 3-speed (alu rims, alu stem and bars), but kind of lost interest and ended up selling it off with a wheelset from a Raleigh Sports and other somewhat random bits (though that's the original chain guard):
11-03-12, 07:00 PM
#3816
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1964 Sturmey Archer AG on my Canadian made Norco winter bike.
BM Lumotec Classic... style is retro and the technology is modern and it was pretty much plug and play with the AG.
11-03-12, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
1964 Sturmey Archer AG on my Canadian made Norco winter bike.
11-03-12, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gna
I better ask if it's ok. The picture is already on the interwebs, from the 2009 ABCE Pictures, so I didn't think he'd mind.
11-03-12, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
A perfect example of why we need hub shiners!
On the bright side, the very light coating of oil you get on an SA hub makes most dirt and crud slide right off and the hub wiper is essential to keep that coating light.
11-04-12, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gna
I better ask if it's ok. The picture is already on the interwebs, from the 2009 ABCE Pictures, so I didn't think he'd mind.
11-04-12, 07:32 PM
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ditto on $75
Originally Posted by nlerner
It's worth what you're willing to pay. Personally, I wouldn't pay more than $75 for that bike, especially because it's missing its chain guard!
11-04-12, 08:22 PM
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Finally took some pics of this one today: 1950s Raleigh Record Ace with non-original finish, replacement decals, and AW rear mechs in an alloy AM shell plus various non-period-correct parts (certainly not correct to an RRA):
Likes For nlerner:
11-04-12, 08:38 PM
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Dumb question, and I can not find it on FAQ, but how do you guys post those large pictures. When I post, all I get is thumbnails. Can't figure it out.
11-04-12, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by w1xq
Dumb question, and I can not find it on FAQ, but how do you guys post those large pictures. When I post, all I get is thumbnails. Can't figure it out.
You can also attach an image and then click it to get the full size version in your post preview, copy and paste that url as an image and your images will get upsized although the attached image thumbnail will still show.
11-05-12, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by w1xq
Dumb question, and I can not find it on FAQ, but how do you guys post those large pictures. When I post, all I get is thumbnails. Can't figure it out.
[img]here you put the link to the picture from the site where you host it[/img]
