For the love of English 3 speeds...
#3826
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I host my own images and others use various image hosting sites.
You can also attach an image and then click it to get the full size version in your post preview, copy and paste that url as an image and your images will get upsized although the attached image thumbnail will still show.
You can also attach an image and then click it to get the full size version in your post preview, copy and paste that url as an image and your images will get upsized although the attached image thumbnail will still show.
#3827
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Thanks akcap! I use Flickr so will give it a try!
#3828
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Picked up a 1965 Foremost off CL a few weeks ago. Plan on doing some cleaning in a few days. It has the J C Penny stickers on the frame. It appears to be Raleigh built. Has the 3 speed twist shifter.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream
https://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream
#3829
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Picked up a 1965 Foremost off CL a few weeks ago. Plan on doing some cleaning in a few days. It has the J C Penny stickers on the frame. It appears to be Raleigh built. Has the 3 speed twist shifter.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream
https://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream
#3830
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#3831
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Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.
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Yes! Please do, I'd really like to see how it's coming along. I remember you posting your search for the chaincase, and eventually finding one. I've been mulling over doing the same to my Sports, but I probably won't. If I ever got my hands on a heavy weight roadster though...
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.
#3832
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Here you go...
I think you need to choose the size of picture you want then right click on it and choose "copy image url" then paste that code.
Aaron
I think you need to choose the size of picture you want then right click on it and choose "copy image url" then paste that code.
Aaron


__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#3835
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#3836
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#3837
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Well they sell chaincases for the roadsters too.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.
#3838
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Well they sell chaincases for the roadsters too.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase.
https://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101
#3839
porc, pâtisserie & piment
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this seller is just over in Brooklyn and every few months turns up a gem like this one (i.e. his & hers nos late 50s superbes)
I have been meaning to drop a them line to see about coming by for an awestruck look.
I have been meaning to drop a them line to see about coming by for an awestruck look.
#3841
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This might be of interest.
https://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101
https://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101
#3842
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Took my 'new' Raleigh Sports in to the office this week. It's a 1972 Standard (S22): no pump pegs, Endrick rims, no headlight mount... and after studying the sticker at the bottom of the seat tube (which is covered mostly by a bike shop decal from Sudgen & Lynch of Menlo Park)... the bike was definitely made in Malaysia.
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip.
It's now shifting through all three gears well -- though downshifts seem to require more effort. This is one of those bikes that's suffered more dis-use than overuse, so now that I've lubed the hub well, it probably just needs some exercise. The chrome cleaned up super well, but the front Endrick rim seems to have suffered disproportionately -- I'd like to replace that so if anyone has a fairly nice Endrick wheel sitting around, let me know.
Norfolk is almost completely flat, but we do get wind --3rd gear is just too high to be useful. I'm thinking of changing out the rear cog to either 22T or 24T. Any thoughts or recommendations on that would be appreciated.
And I need to come up with a good name for her.
Here she is at my desk up on the 15th floor of the new Wells Fargo Center (to the right you can see the tracks of our new light rail, The Tide):
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip.
It's now shifting through all three gears well -- though downshifts seem to require more effort. This is one of those bikes that's suffered more dis-use than overuse, so now that I've lubed the hub well, it probably just needs some exercise. The chrome cleaned up super well, but the front Endrick rim seems to have suffered disproportionately -- I'd like to replace that so if anyone has a fairly nice Endrick wheel sitting around, let me know.
Norfolk is almost completely flat, but we do get wind --3rd gear is just too high to be useful. I'm thinking of changing out the rear cog to either 22T or 24T. Any thoughts or recommendations on that would be appreciated.
And I need to come up with a good name for her.
Here she is at my desk up on the 15th floor of the new Wells Fargo Center (to the right you can see the tracks of our new light rail, The Tide):

Last edited by akcapbikeforums; 11-09-12 at 12:18 PM.
#3843
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Very nice akcapbikeforums! Cool picture. I put a 22t cog on my Sports and I really like it. I think any larger than 22 would make 3rd too low. I think 22 is a very good choice if you have high winds or hills but still want a decent 3rd gear.
#3844
Count Orlok Member
Took my new Raleigh Sports in to the office this week. It's a 1972 Standard (S22): no pump pegs, no headlight mount... and after studying the sticker at the bottom of the seat tube (which is covered mostly by a bike shop decal from Sudgen & Lynch of Menlo Park)... the bike was definitely made in Malaysia.
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip.
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip.
#3845
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
In any case, it makes 3rd gear fairly useless for a bike that weighs 35-45 pounds and increasing the size of the rear cog improves the low gear and makes the 3rd gear more usable... I like to set up my 3 speeds with the high gear being my primary cruising gear and then I have two steps down for wind, hills, and bigger hills.
#3846
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In any case, it makes 3rd gear fairly useless for a bike that weighs 35-45 pounds and increasing the size of the rear cog improves the low gear and makes the 3rd gear more usable... I like to set up my 3 speeds with the high gear being my primary cruising gear and then I have two steps down for wind, hills, and bigger hills.
Looking good. Is this the GAP/C&O trip? That looks fun.
#3847
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
My winter bike has a 22 tooth cog mated to a 42 tooth chain ring to give it a low of 35 gear inches.
#3848
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In glass table flat Miami when I got my Raleigh, 48x22 worked well. Starting off on 2nd (56"), and then switching to 3rd (75") worked well most of the time, and when the headwinds and ocassional overpass got too strong, 1st (42") did the trick.
Now that it's in Colombia, the gearing became rather inadequate for both the hills and the unpaved roads. 2nd (56") works well on level unpaved roads, with 3rd (75") doing well on any downhills and level paved roads. 1st (42") works with short unpaved uphills, and extended paved uphills, but unpaved uphills are too much.
To deal with this, I have three options:
One, I change out for a larger rear sprocket, a 23t to get 72"-54"-40" gearing with the original 48 tooth crank. The issue this has is the full chaincase, I'm not sure how large a rear cog it can handle, but from what I've heard 23-24 teeth is the upper limit. I'll also have to play a bit with chain length, might have to get a half link as well.
Two, I swap the crank for a 46t to get similar gearing with the same 22t sprocket. More expensive, but a simple change.
Three, swap the AW guts for S5 or FW guts, and their associated odds and ends. An expensive and rather invasive change. I'll do this only if measures One and Two don't do the trick.
Now that it's in Colombia, the gearing became rather inadequate for both the hills and the unpaved roads. 2nd (56") works well on level unpaved roads, with 3rd (75") doing well on any downhills and level paved roads. 1st (42") works with short unpaved uphills, and extended paved uphills, but unpaved uphills are too much.
To deal with this, I have three options:
One, I change out for a larger rear sprocket, a 23t to get 72"-54"-40" gearing with the original 48 tooth crank. The issue this has is the full chaincase, I'm not sure how large a rear cog it can handle, but from what I've heard 23-24 teeth is the upper limit. I'll also have to play a bit with chain length, might have to get a half link as well.
Two, I swap the crank for a 46t to get similar gearing with the same 22t sprocket. More expensive, but a simple change.
Three, swap the AW guts for S5 or FW guts, and their associated odds and ends. An expensive and rather invasive change. I'll do this only if measures One and Two don't do the trick.
Last edited by jrecoi; 11-09-12 at 02:09 PM.
#3849
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Sorry, just saw this.
What would be the best way to do this? Pictures with a tape measure? Pictures against a backdrop of 1/4" graph paper?
What would be the best way to do this? Pictures with a tape measure? Pictures against a backdrop of 1/4" graph paper?
#3850
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