Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 01-27-13, 08:03 PM
  #4026  
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253

Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times in 48 Posts
Originally Posted by auchencrow
Those UK guys keep finding the coolest English steeds. I don't understand it.
I think they must be trying harder is all
Velognome is offline  
Old 01-27-13, 08:28 PM
  #4027  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,074
Mentioned: 476 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3761 Post(s)
Liked 6,402 Times in 2,538 Posts
^ Or maybe the flippahs haven't cleaned out everyone's shed already like in this country.
nlerner is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 04:15 AM
  #4028  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Stratford-upon-Avon, UK
Posts: 185

Bikes: 1935 Raleigh Sports (road), 1935 Raleigh Sports (town), 1950 Planet Pintail, Raleigh Chopper Mk2

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
There's not quite the same flipper culture here I don't think... most eBay sellers are focused on the Raleigh Chopper (there was a huge trend here about 5 years ago for collecting them) or newer stuff. Plus where I am, most students either want Dutch loop frame bikes or 80s racers, so it's easier to pick up pre-war bikes. Now just to stick at two...
tjkwood is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 07:25 AM
  #4029  
rhm
multimodal commuter
 
rhm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,852

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

Mentioned: 583 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1907 Post(s)
Liked 569 Times in 337 Posts
Originally Posted by slowtostart

I am still frustrated ... and the hub has only a "1" visible.
This is the best photo I have of a 1940 hub:

In the lower left corner triangle, you see the letters AW 0 . That "0" is the date. Does yours, with the "1", look like that? If so, that's a 1941 hub.

The hubs of that age have a rectangular cutout in the right side axle nut, and the cog is threaded onto the driver.
rhm is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 11:13 AM
  #4030  
Verified Antique
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 480
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
PalmettoUpstate, congratulations to you and your bride.
Thank you, I finished up a transaction today for a women's late 60's/early 70's gold Hercules but haven't picked it up yet. A nice bike that will probably go to one of my kids... Will post a pic or two when I take delivery...
PalmettoUpstate is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 02:30 PM
  #4031  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 350
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rhm
This is the best photo I have of a 1940 hub:

In the lower left corner triangle, you see the letters AW 0 . That "0" is the date. Does yours, with the "1", look like that? If so, that's a 1941 hub.

The hubs of that age have a rectangular cutout in the right side axle nut, and the cog is threaded onto the driver.
My gut feeling is that it is not that old, but what do I know? The prof I purchased it from bought it used in the 70s and did little more to it than lose the part of the chaincase I have since replaced.

Any thoughts on the all green rear fender? I did not see any evidence of white paint under the reflector. The cafe lock is very "Dutch", but aren't they all? We live in an academic, military, and academic military community with a very international flavor. This one could have been shipped from almost anywhere.

I'll check the hub once we thaw out a bit.

sts
slowtostart is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 05:27 PM
  #4032  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
The chain guard is the same one they would attach to the store brand Gliders they used to make for Eatons in Canada.
https://threespeedmania.wordpress.com...er-by-raleigh/
gster is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 05:32 PM
  #4033  
Rustbelt Rider
 
mkeller234's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,123

Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 258 Post(s)
Liked 363 Times in 174 Posts
Originally Posted by tjkwood
I've posted a thread about these, but here are my latest finds: A 1935 Raleigh Sports with a AW installed in the 50s, and a matching Raleigh roadster from the same year with Palco shock absorbers.






Wow, that is really cool! That suspension on the front looks like it would really change some things. For one, it definitely puts the tire close to the fender. It also seems to dramatically change the height and trail of the fork. Can the position be rotated at all?
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
mkeller234 is offline  
Old 01-28-13, 06:52 PM
  #4034  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Stratford-upon-Avon, UK
Posts: 185

Bikes: 1935 Raleigh Sports (road), 1935 Raleigh Sports (town), 1950 Planet Pintail, Raleigh Chopper Mk2

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by mkeller234
Wow, that is really cool! That suspension on the front looks like it would really change some things. For one, it definitely puts the tire close to the fender. It also seems to dramatically change the height and trail of the fork. Can the position be rotated at all?
I'm really not sure if I can adjust it - I kinda assumed it was in the right place but I may have a fiddle when I feel brave!
tjkwood is offline  
Old 01-29-13, 09:56 PM
  #4035  
Schwinnasaur
 
Schwinnsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,540
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Liked 168 Times in 114 Posts
Has anyone tried Raincheaters? These are brake pads that are composed of laminated leather bonded to an outer core of Fibrax. Do they work better in the rain then salmon Koolstops?
Schwinnsta is offline  
Old 01-30-13, 04:50 PM
  #4036  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Armenia, Colombia
Posts: 295

Bikes: 1961 Raleigh Sports

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinnsta
Has anyone tried Raincheaters? These are brake pads that are composed of laminated leather bonded to an outer core of Fibrax. Do they work better in the rain then salmon Koolstops?
I thought that was the interim measure before Kool Stops started to get big, marketed as a Fibrax variant.
jrecoi is offline  
Old 01-31-13, 08:13 PM
  #4037  
porc, pâtisserie & piment
 
yellowbarber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Île de France
Posts: 329

Bikes: 1830 Claude Chevrier Strad model, 1915 Gibson A, 1929 Cuesnon/Beuscher Stainer model, Phil Davidson 2pt mandolin, 1970 JW Gallagher G-50, ca1920 Favilla Brothers grand concert, 2005 Swift Folder, '97 Cannondale M700

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 20 Posts
WHOA! nice one!

Originally Posted by tjkwood
I've posted a thread about these, but here are my latest finds: A 1935 Raleigh Sports with a AW installed in the 50s, and a matching Raleigh roadster from the same year with Palco shock absorbers.


yellowbarber is offline  
Old 02-06-13, 10:34 AM
  #4038  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boone NC USA
Posts: 622

Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Howard
Bought a Sports frame at the Indiana swap meet today. No wheels, fenders, just a frame, BB, crank, pedals, fork, headset, stem and handlebars - all the oddly threaded parts, in other words.
All the decals are long since faded away, as is the paint on the head badge (which was still there!).
The serial number is 5 digits at the top of the seat tube with AK under it, which sounds at first like a 1960's frame, but ...
It has a BB oiler, chaincase braze on, and the simpler lugs ... So now I'm thinking earlier.
(from the headbadge.com: convention 2: 1948 .....AJ through .....AP (?))
Not real positive, but I seem to recall that 1955 was the last year they used the oiler bottom bracket, so your frame has to be earlier than that.
graywolf is offline  
Old 02-06-13, 10:58 AM
  #4039  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Boone NC USA
Posts: 622

Bikes: Bianchi hybrid. Dunelt 3-sp. Raleigh basket case. Wanting a Roadster.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by slowtostart

Sadly, my husband has no interest in keeping this. I could salvage the wheels, rack, and lock to use on one of my Sports and simply pass along the frame. I have only $75 invested so far.

Thoughts?
Please don't break that bike up. As you show it in your photos it is worth a few hundred dollars to a collector. Sell it to someone who will restore it, and use the money to upgrade your Sports. If I was not so old, poor, and living in an apartment I would make you an offer on it, unfortunately, I am at the point where I am wondering how to keep my good old stuff (none of it is actually really valuable) from winding up in the trash in a few years.

Breaking stuff up that has a real antique value is simple vandalism. You seem to think that because you got it cheap it is junk. That is not so, you are just lucky. SIGH!
graywolf is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 08:43 AM
  #4040  
porc, pâtisserie & piment
 
yellowbarber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Île de France
Posts: 329

Bikes: 1830 Claude Chevrier Strad model, 1915 Gibson A, 1929 Cuesnon/Beuscher Stainer model, Phil Davidson 2pt mandolin, 1970 JW Gallagher G-50, ca1920 Favilla Brothers grand concert, 2005 Swift Folder, '97 Cannondale M700

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 20 Posts
Originally Posted by Schwinnsta
Has anyone tried Raincheaters? These are brake pads that are composed of laminated leather bonded to an outer core of Fibrax. Do they work better in the rain then salmon Koolstops?
Yes, raincheaters do a great job stopping wet steel rims. I have them on the bike I ride in London where the rain is a fact of life.
yellowbarber is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 09:03 AM
  #4041  
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,558

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 505 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7209 Post(s)
Liked 2,233 Times in 1,317 Posts
Originally Posted by graywolf
Not real positive, but I seem to recall that 1955 was the last year they used the oiler bottom bracket, so your frame has to be earlier than that.
I have a Rudge with a 1962 hub, and it has an oil port on the BB. I'm pretty sure the bike is a 1962 model, i.e. not a replaced rear hub.

Where can I get rain cheaters? My Rudge's braking is frightful in the wet. And how well do they work in the dry? In the dry, with Kool Stop pads, the braking is excellent.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 09:14 AM
  #4042  
Senior Member
 
Number400's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 972

Bikes: Cannondale Slate 105 and T2 tandem, 2008 Scott Addict R4, Raleigh SC drop bar tandem

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Just wrapping up a de-rusting and basic restoration of a 1965 Cavalier. All original down to the John Bull brake pads.

My Wife has put some sweat into it and now wants to keep it for herself. It is a pretty sweet ride! I am not sure what to do about the paint. It seems so thin and has a very dull finish. I used some Novus fine scratch remover and it shined up some areas. Any tips? I would like to get it repainted but just does not seem worth it.
Number400 is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 06:19 PM
  #4043  
Schwinnasaur
 
Schwinnsta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 1,540
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Liked 168 Times in 114 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
Where can I get rain cheaters? My Rudge's braking is frightful in the wet. And how well do they work in the dry? In the dry, with Kool Stop pads, the braking is excellent.
https://www.ekmpowershop25.com/ekmps/...cks-3143-p.asp
https://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/pr...r_Brake_Blocks

These look like they could work. I have not asked them about shipping. They come up on eBay from time to time.

Last edited by Schwinnsta; 02-07-13 at 06:21 PM. Reason: link added
Schwinnsta is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 08:44 PM
  #4044  
Senior Member
 
conradpdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 301

Bikes: 70"s Raleigh Superbe, 1959 Murray Vanguard Middle weigh cruiser

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
In the last couple weeks I got some rain cheaters, put two on the front kept the kool stops on the back (I just use the backs for slowing anyway). They seem to work a lot better to me anyway,but I've been kind of too busy to do much riding (house repairs and such) other than to the store and back since I've gotten them and there hasn't been much rain on the day's I've ridden either.

Of course I adjusted the brakes (not much but slightly) when I swapped them out too, so it might just be that. But so far they've been worlds better than the pinkies, and they don't make noise. I never was able to chase the squeal out of the kool stops.
conradpdx is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 10:59 PM
  #4045  
Senior Member
 
adventurepdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 162 Post(s)
Liked 65 Times in 47 Posts
Might as well post this here, since it's the most appropriate thread, but if you are in Portland, Oregon, I encourage you to attend the upcoming Three Speed Ride on Sunday March 3, 2013. (3/3/13, yes that was on purpose.) We'll meet at 11 am at Kenilworth Park, SE 32nd Ave at SE Holgate Blvd. More info over at Society of Three Speeds.

And the poster I whipped up for it:

larger image here.
adventurepdx is offline  
Old 02-07-13, 11:19 PM
  #4046  
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Thread Starter
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Posts: 27,272

Bikes: See my sig...

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Liked 128 Times in 95 Posts
Originally Posted by auchencrow
Those UK guys keep finding the coolest English steeds. I don't understand it.
Do we get a point even though it has 7 speeds ?

Sixty Fiver is offline  
Old 02-08-13, 08:59 AM
  #4047  
porc, pâtisserie & piment
 
yellowbarber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Île de France
Posts: 329

Bikes: 1830 Claude Chevrier Strad model, 1915 Gibson A, 1929 Cuesnon/Beuscher Stainer model, Phil Davidson 2pt mandolin, 1970 JW Gallagher G-50, ca1920 Favilla Brothers grand concert, 2005 Swift Folder, '97 Cannondale M700

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 20 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
Where can I get rain cheaters? My Rudge's braking is frightful in the wet. And how well do they work in the dry? In the dry, with Kool Stop pads, the braking is excellent.
I'm getting a couple sets from these guys and shipping was not too horrible
https://stores.ebay.com/bankrupt-bike...p2047675.l2563

they have a constantly revolving stock of tons of other useful stuff, so they're worth a browse every couple of days
(whitworth tools, single speed chains, sturmey bits, proper tyres, ect...)
yellowbarber is offline  
Old 02-08-13, 10:50 AM
  #4048  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,872

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3546 Post(s)
Liked 3,285 Times in 1,880 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider
Where can I get rain cheaters? My Rudge's braking is frightful in the wet. And how well do they work in the dry? In the dry, with Kool Stop pads, the braking is excellent.
I assume you have the original steel rims? If wet braking is still dismal even with Kool-Stop pads, your best bet is to replace the rims with e.g. aluminum Sun CR-18s.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 02-08-13, 11:04 AM
  #4049  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Armenia, Colombia
Posts: 295

Bikes: 1961 Raleigh Sports

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by slowtostart
I am still frustrated in my lack of skill to name or date this one. I've tried to show the color, now complete chaincase, evidence of mud flap on front fender, and lack of white tail at rear. The serial # is 681325 T, the wheels are stainless 1 x 3/8, and the hub has only a "1" visible. There is a fork lock, but no key. It has a hefty "cafe" lock at the rear and I do have the keys for it. Shifter has been replaced, so no clue there. Everything, including the seat post has a Raleigh stamp in evidence. None of the nuts show the red "R" seen on my Sports.


Sadly, my husband has no interest in keeping this. I could salvage the wheels, rack, and lock to use on one of my Sports and simply pass along the frame. I have only $75 invested so far.


Thoughts?

According to Kurt, the serial is Convention #1, of which there is a list published by Raleigh online some ten years ago. Sheldon Brown has the start serials for each year. According to Sheldon, 681325 T corresponds to a 1954 bike, probably made in the latter part of the year.


Now that I'm looking through your older posts, what happened to the Dunelt? I'm assuming that your husband is currently riding the Dunlet. This '54 Raleigh is a big step up in quality, and I would canibalize the Dunlet to swap parts with this Raleigh. I would suspect that the trouble is in the somewhat low handlebars and saddle not being as comfortable as the setup the Dunlet has, and perhaps the rod brakes not working as well as the caliper setups the other Sports have.


The wheels on the Raleigh are Westrick, so you can transfer over the caliper brakes as well as the saddle and stem/handlebars from the Dunlet and use them on the Raleigh without trouble. Alternatively, Kool Stop salmon pads for rod brakes are now available, so if you want to keep the rod brakes, that is a good way of improving the braking.




Quality in Raleighs started to deteriorate in the early 60s, so anything pre-1962ish is quite a treat. Greywolf wrote on this a while ago, but the pre-60s Raleighs have oilers everywhere, so that both hubs and the bottom bracket can be maintained by simply opening the various oil ports, and adding a few drops of motor oil, no need to grab the wrenches to disassemble and lubricate the moving parts. The only tools for day to day maintence are the air pump for the tires, an oiling can for the moving parts, and an adjustable wrench to tighten anything that might be loose.
jrecoi is offline  
Old 02-08-13, 12:53 PM
  #4050  
Full Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 409
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts
That's some really nice work on the poster -- and looks like a fun event!


Originally Posted by adventurepdx

larger image here.
akcapbikeforums is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.