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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 03-14-15, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by desconhecido
If you want to do anything other than 590mm, it's nice to have the 36h hub. The available 40 hole rims, other than for 590mm rims, is not too great.

Like I said before, I think a $10 SA hub is a bargain. If the rim or spokes are useful, it's like getting the hub for free and "that's even better."
I gave rim/tube/tire to bike shop to dispose & spokes are in recycling. I kept the brass nipples which were in nice shape.

The person I bought it from is a forum member and was on the Portland Classic & Vintage ride last summer. We recognized each other. Small world!
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Old 03-14-15, 07:42 PM
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question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .

Last edited by michaelz28; 03-14-15 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 03-14-15, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
Alright, this thread has been bogged down with technical minutiae the past few days, now time for some straight up eye-candy!

This was spotted at Ye Olde Velo Cult in Portland yesterday. Not strictly "British", but a mix of new Japanese frame and vintage British and French parts. To put it simply, "nicely done."
That is one sweet TOEI! The only 3-speed that gets any real duty in my fleet is even less British, being mostly French with the only British parts being the hub and trigger, and possibly the shifter cable. But at least the hub is the same age as the frame-- both 1972.

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Old 03-14-15, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .
There is absolutely no reason not to use your rims. Steel is heavier than aluminum (not big deal), and steel rims require more stopping distance when braking in the rain (aluminum rims will stop you quicker when wet). People rode bikes for 100 years with steel rims and I doubt anyone died because their rims were steel. Just adjust your braking time.

In my particular scenario the front wheel had a big flat spot in it that was not fixable, made truing wheel perfectly impossible. Rear chrome was rusted and flaking on the braking surface. Plus I wanted to build my first set of wheels so I used this as the opportunity. I had a '78 Schwinn Le Tour II that I overhauled & sold and the original chrome rims literally looked like showroom. I had no issues with riding with those.
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Old 03-15-15, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by southpawboston
That is one sweet TOEI! The only 3-speed that gets any real duty in my fleet is even less British, being mostly French with the only British parts being the hub and trigger, and possibly the shifter cable. But at least the hub is the same age as the frame-- both 1972.

Beautiful bike!
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Old 03-15-15, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .
If the wheels are in good shape I would just ride them, nothing wrong with good steel wheels. My wheels were rusted and bent so I built a set to replace them. For the cotter removal just google that subject, several how-to YouTube videos out there.

Enjoy the bike!
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Old 03-15-15, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
question . why shouldn't I use my original rims ? i see all this rim talk and i just wondered . they're in pretty good shape and turn straight . i haven't tried to get the tires off yet but i'm optimistic .. and id like to grease the crank . any video links or advice ? cotter pin removal and reinstall and stuff .
There's a good Raleigh bottom bracket rebuild video on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc

also, If you would like nice tools for this project, they can be bought from Mark at bikesmithdesign.com
I should add: It's not necessary to remove the fixed race like the guy in the video does. You can leave
it in place and clean it up with a rag on a stick. It's nicer to have the whole bracket apart, but if you feel the fight with the fixed cup isn't worth the effort, you can still regrease without taking it off.

Last edited by BigChief; 03-15-15 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 03-15-15, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
How about the hammered chain guard; know where they can be had?
I don't, since this isn't my bike.

HOWEVER! Someone alerted me as to who the owner of the bike is, who goes by "spoke sniffer". (May even be here on the forums?) Spoke Sniffer has a full set on the bike on flickr. Feast your eyes!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/
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Old 03-15-15, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
I don't, since this isn't my bike.

HOWEVER! Someone alerted me as to who the owner of the bike is, who goes by "spoke sniffer". (May even be here on the forums?) Spoke Sniffer has a full set on the bike on flickr. Feast your eyes!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/
Excellent, thanks, maybe I can track him down thru here or flickr. And then I see another cool "shorty" chain guard at 6780. Only place I see new ones of the type is here: Chainguards, Frame Protectors, Kickstands - Accessories
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Old 03-15-15, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Excellent, thanks, maybe I can track him down thru here or flickr. And then I see another cool "shorty" chain guard at 6780. Only place I see new ones of the type is here: Chainguards, Frame Protectors, Kickstands - Accessories
I've seen that VO chainguard and like it, though others expressed concern that it would make the bike too "French". I wish there were more choices for short chainguards as well.
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Old 03-15-15, 02:02 PM
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Fender mounting bolt size?

Anyone know what size bolt goes in the frame where the detailing chopstick is inserted? Many thanks in advance.

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Old 03-15-15, 02:12 PM
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I love Graham's videos! He is informative and clear, and I love his accent.

I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.
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Old 03-15-15, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
There's a good Raleigh bottom bracket rebuild video on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc

also, If you would like nice tools for this project, they can be bought from Mark at bikesmithdesign.com
I should add: It's not necessary to remove the fixed race like the guy in the video does. You can leave
it in place and clean it up with a rag on a stick. It's nicer to have the whole bracket apart, but if you feel the fight with the fixed cup isn't worth the effort, you can still regrease without taking it off.
thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?
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Old 03-15-15, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
I've seen that VO chainguard and like it, though others expressed concern that it would make the bike too "French". I wish there were more choices for short chainguards as well.
I looked at that FLICKR set and it appears that the hammered aluminum chain guard may be a "Zefal" brand... See what you think: https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/
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Old 03-15-15, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
I looked at that FLICKR set and it appears that the hammered aluminum chain guard may be a "Zefal" brand... See what you think: https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...7630365118720/
Yeah, looks like a Zefal.
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Old 03-15-15, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?
Since I've gotten a Bikesmith press, I don't think I've removed any cotters that couldn't be reused. If you are working on a bike with Raleigh "R" nuts on the cotters, I think the only way to reuse the nuts is by reusing the cotters. The press is a bit pricey for single use. If I had it to do over, I might try the Harbor Freight chain tool mod -- that's pretty slick and I like the idea of repurposing stuff.

Plenty of discussion on available 26 1 3/8 tires here. Unless it's a Schwinn (597 mm), you can use any 26 1 3/8 " tire, but not 26 1.375 which is probably for either 599 mm or 559 mm rims. Raleigh Sports had 26 1 3/8 590 mm bsd tires. I'm not familiar with the Columbia, but it probably does too. Any tire specified as 590 mm, EA3, or 650A is the same size.

There are a couple Schwalbe offerings in the size -- Marathon Supreme (my favorite, though expensive) and Delta Cruiser (white and well liked by those who use them). Michelin has a relatively inexpensive alternative and so does Kenda. Maybe some other Chines made inexpensive tires, too. Then there is the Panaracer Col De La Vie which is nice looking and a bit fat and is a cushy riding tire. It's a nice tire, but some of us have had difficulty in getting them mounted properly. Others have not.
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Old 03-15-15, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I love Graham's videos! He is informative and clear, and I love his accent.

I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.
I have a couple of bikes (well maybe 4) with steel rims. They are the original rims, and are in great shape, so why change?

I don't ride them very often and when I do it is in dry weather. I figure that they came with the bike, and if they are still OK, they stay with the bike.
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Old 03-15-15, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
thanks to all @velovixen , @El Segundo and @BigChief. the vid was helpfull for sure and i can see where you don't have to remove the stationary race . about the pins .. is there anyway to save them during the procedure ? i have the original raliegh ones and don't think that they will fair well with the hammering and all ... so a modern 26 x 1 3/8 tire will work on a old rim than ?
Yes, you can press the cotter pins out. I have a special tool because I work on these bikes a lot. Park discontinued theirs, but bikesmithdesigns makes nice ones. Or, you can use a smaller clamp on type bench vise and a socket. Awkward, but it works. I've been happy with the regular Kendra blackwall 26x 3/8 tires, but there are nicer ones.
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Old 03-15-15, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
I'm normally a strong proponent of aluminum rims, but sometimes, leaving well enough alone is the best plan. I've changed to aluminum rims on my friends' 3-speeds, but mine are staying original. I don't ride them enough to justify the cost of changing the rims. Plus the chrome has worn off the rims on my Rudge, and that happens to make the brakes work well when dry. They still don't work worth a darn in the wet, but that rarely affects me. When I had the Rudge in NJ, I just rode something else in the wet.
I agree with you. If the rims are not in crappy shape, I don't mind the steel ones. Even when nice and shiny, they will still stop you when dry either with the grey pads or with the Kool Stop pads. My only thing, I guess, is that it's a lot of work to rehab one of these old bikes and I really don't like putting rusty rims or pedals on a bike that I've put a lot of effort into.
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Old 03-15-15, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by desconhecido
Since I've gotten a Bikesmith press, I don't think I've removed any cotters that couldn't be reused. If you are working on a bike with Raleigh "R" nuts on the cotters, I think the only way to reuse the nuts is by reusing the cotters. The press is a bit pricey for single use. If I had it to do over, I might try the Harbor Freight chain tool mod -- that's pretty slick and I like the idea of repurposing stuff.

Plenty of discussion on available 26 1 3/8 tires here. Unless it's a Schwinn (597 mm), you can use any 26 1 3/8 " tire, but not 26 1.375 which is probably for either 599 mm or 559 mm rims. Raleigh Sports had 26 1 3/8 590 mm bsd tires. I'm not familiar with the Columbia, but it probably does too. Any tire specified as 590 mm, EA3, or 650A is the same size.

There are a couple Schwalbe offerings in the size -- Marathon Supreme (my favorite, though expensive) and Delta Cruiser (white and well liked by those who use them). Michelin has a relatively inexpensive alternative and so does Kenda. Maybe some other Chines made inexpensive tires, too. Then there is the Panaracer Col De La Vie which is nice looking and a bit fat and is a cushy riding tire. It's a nice tire, but some of us have had difficulty in getting them mounted properly. Others have not.
i have a rather large C clamp that with some pins and long sockets i think i can press it out and in ..i was looking at the schwalbe fux gum wall offering for like 22 bucks a piece . thanks .
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Old 03-15-15, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx
Yeah, looks like a Zefal.
Did a little more checking at his FLICKR set and it turns out that it is a "LeFol Le Martele" [mais oui!]

Anyway, I like the art of these; and the practicality...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/802536...57630365118718
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Old 03-15-15, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
i have a rather large C clamp that with some pins and long sockets i think i can press it out and in ..i was looking at the schwalbe fux gum wall offering for like 22 bucks a piece . thanks .
You might wanna check this out.

I built one, after finding out that the chain breaker was a POS on bicycle chains. [might be fine for motorcycle chains; dunno]

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-press.html
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Old 03-15-15, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
You might wanna check this out.

I built one, after finding out that the chain breaker was a POS on bicycle chains. [might be fine for motorcycle chains; dunno]

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ter-press.html
got ya . i guess the pin doesn't really mater its the nut i want to keep . I'm not keen of swinging a 22 oz ball peen hammer at the bike though . so pressing them out and in is the way .

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Old 03-15-15, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelz28
got ya . i guess the pin doesn't really mater its the nut i want to keep . I'm not keen of swinging a 22 oz ball peen hammer at the bike though . so pressing them out and in is the way .
Yeah, I try to stay away from BB re-greasing and all... maybe a thread will pop up on strategies for avoiding that... but sometimes it can't be avoided. I have used my HF "creation" a couple of times and it worked like a champ. And yes, I got mine on sale for $9.99 and I think I may have had a 20% off coupon on top of that.

AMESJA knows his sheet IMO...
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Old 03-15-15, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
Yeah, I try to stay away from BB re-greasing and all... maybe a thread will pop up on strategies for avoiding that... but sometimes it can't be avoided. I have used my HF "creation" a couple of times and it worked like a champ. And yes, I got mine on sale for $9.99 and I think I may have had a 20% off coupon on top of that.

AMESJA knows his sheet IMO...
not saying he doesn't . just feel i got too nice a crank to be woopin on it ( one miss ) . its in pretty new shape . well get it i'm sure .
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